EDGE

I'm just finishing up a 700R4 to T5 swap. I managed to get the car started for the first time yesterday, with the clutch to the floor. This morning it would not start, until I pushed that ratchet type slider all the way down. Then I pressed the clutch pedal down, heard it make a ratcheting noise and it started. Am I missing something? I have the Yellow/Purple connected properly, but whats the second set of contacts for on that switch?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's pretty much all ya gotta do...

Sounds kinda like the ratchet thing doesn't have enough ratch left to it, and it slid back up the little shaft.

Have your assistant hold the clutch to the floor (doesn't have to be absolutely smashed all the way); reach up in there and push that down with one hand, and mark the shaft with the other; then put a tie-wrap around the shaft right there to hold it in place.

EDGE

Thanks. Any idea as to what the second set of contacts on that switch are for?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No clue... my car only has the one set. Can't begin to guess what else would need to know that the clutch is all the way to the floor.

EDGE

Maybe it was just another design. I'm thinking it may be for cruise, although I do have a separate cruise interrupt with vacuum on both the break and clutch. Would you happen to know if I have to hook up the wiring on the clutch cruise switch? I have it plugged into the brake, therefore there is no connector left for the clutch.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The cruise interlock operates at the very top of the clutch pedal travel, not the bottom. So I'm quite sure the other contacts can't be for the cruise.

Besides, my car has cruise, and only has the starter interlock.

Yes you need the clutch interlock. Otherwise if you happen to be driving down the road with the cruise on and you hit the clutch, the cruise will send the engine to WOT trying to speed the car up. Very bad.

Can't recall off the top of my head whether the cruise interlock sw is normally open, or normally closed. I think it's NC but I could be wrong. That being the case, all you would have to do is, take one of the wires to the brake interlock off of that sw, and make it go to one terminal of the clutch sw; and make a little jumper to go between the remaining terminals of the 2 switches. (wire em in series)

EDGE

Something like this? Forgive the crude drawing

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yes, kinda like that.

You can probably even do it with 3 pieces of wire, 2 that have a male terminal at one end to plug into the existing connector, and a female at the other to plug onto the switches; and one with 2 females, to go between switches. That way you don't have to cut anything, you can leave the factory harness intact.

You can measure the switch with your DMM to see if it's normally closed, first.

EDGE

Thanks. Yeah, I'm still having the same issue with that switch. Starts once or twice, then I have to reset it. I'm not quite sure of the operating principle behind it. Does the the end piece that ratchets on the shaft have to make contact with something? Is that what's going on there?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The end piece pushes down on the little white sleevy looking thing around the notched shaft, right down at the switch body.

Might need to just tighten your tie-wrap up a bit. Maybe put 2 of em on there.

EDGE

Ah okay. That makes sense. I'll be able to figure it out now that I know how it operates. Thanks

EDGE

I've got the two switches setup as discussed in this thread. I'm just not sure if it's functioning properly. Both also have the vacuum line tee'd together. The cruise sets fine. When I press the clutch pedal in, cruise disconnects and the RPM goes to idle. Once I let the pedal back up, the cruise re-engages and the car accelerates to the previous setting. If I press the brake pedal, it disables it all together.