Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Hey all, kind of a serious question here. I recently had my 700r4 rebuilt by a local builder with a road race kit from Dana at Pro-Built. I also installed a 2800 stall vigilante converter. I have 300 miles on it now following the install and it seems to be running really well with one exception. Reverse.

I can put it in reverse, feel it engage when I shift into it, but when I try and go backwards the car revs and feels as if I was riding a clutch and barely moves. I have to get the rpm's up to around 2000 before it even starts to try roll. As mentioned, it feels as if I was riding a clutch. If on a slope facing down a hill, even a really small one, trying to backup "up" a hill or incline is nearly impossible.

With that in mind in first through Fourth the car runs like a champ going forward with strong shifts.

Any thoughts as to what would cause this issue?



Before the rebuild it would pull hard in reverse.

Any thoughts as to what would cause this issue?

morgsie

iTrader: (1)

why not ask the builder? something is obviously not right. try putting it in manual first and see if a similar thing happens. reverse shares a clutch pack with manual low. keep in mind there always feels like a bit of slip before engagement with a higher stall converter when starting out in forward or reverse gear. but shouldn't make the care undriveable by any means.

EDIT: thinking about this more sounds like an internal oil leak. try getting trans hot and in manual first see if there is engine breaking or not. either way trans will have to get torn down and torn seal(s) replaced. when i retro'd the 4L60E low/reverse clutch pack into my 700R4 (which is what Dana supplies in all his kits) I added an extra 700R4 steel to get the clearance tighter. it was looser than I like, but that should only affect engagement time...

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

It worked well initially after some friends and I installed it. Builder wants me to try the linkage adjustment first. I have no garage and no tools, the movers packed them and I am in a hotel until the 10th when I drive from Utah to MN. I have no means of R&R the transmission. If it has to come out I have no clue how I'm gong to afford it if it needs to be gone through again.

morgsie

iTrader: (1)

Did you even try what i said about manual first? this is the problem when you try and save a few bucks by R&Ring the trans yourself and get someone else to rebuild it. Even if it is an internal problem you still have to get it back to the builder. Can you not go over to one of the friends that helped you put it in and adjust it? It's literally probably loosening a few bolts to adjust.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I got the car up and adjusted the linkage several times and it did nothing to change what was happening. No shops or parts stores in the area had a transmission line pressure gauge so I have to wait till tomorrow when one is shipped up from the hub store of Oreillys. Fail Autozone. Fail Oreillys. Napa closes at 6 so FAIL napa. There is no Advanced so I guess they're spared my wrath for now. tomorrow after work I'll get the tester and verify what I believe is low line pressure in reverse. If I have good pressure, then man I don't know.

My biggest problem is that a week from friday, I'm supposed to be on a 1300 mile trip as we're moving. I don't know of any place here, especially the builder who did it that can get the parts over the holiday and get it done by next week Friday (10 july).

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Sounds kinda like the boost valve isn't getting Reverse Input signal, if all the forward gears work right but Reverse doesn't. Maybe a stuck Reverse Abuse Valve?

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

It's possible. I'm waiting for a line pressure gauge to come in to the local Oreilly's to see what the pressures look like. I tried to get one last night but no one had one in the store, all of them had to order one in from a hub. Anyway, I'll know more after work.

I think where I'm at now though is that no matter what it is, the trans still has to come out I think.

I did call Dana at Pro-built and he said that if I feel like it, the trans will be fine going forward, just not to park anywhere that I would need to back up. then I could fix it when I get to where I'm moving to.

I don't know if there is a shop near here who can do it in 5-6 days and if I don't drive it, then I have to fly back and get it later.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

So I hooked up a line pressure gauge and while driving got the following:

In reverse which doesn't push the car, gets 100-125psi. 1 and 2nd get 150-175, drive and OD are 75-90.

According to Dana at Pro-built with the road race kit I got I should be pulling 200 at idle and 220-250 when getting on it.

It's looking like the guy I took it too either screwed up or didn't use the kit. Either way, looks like I'm taking a bath in this deal..

morgsie

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried the manual first thing I have suggested now for the 3rd time? Reverse @ idle with TV hooked up should be 230+ psi. Sounds like your builder didn't air check as he built. This is why I build my own transmission, then I'm the only one to blame.

EDIT: manual first should be 230+ psi @ idle with TV cable hooked up.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I thought I answered this. Almost no braking in first.

Idle in reverse is 120ish psi

Manual 1st is 150ish psi

morgsie

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you did. Definitely an internal leak with those pressures. My money is on one of the seals on low/reverse piston is damaged or missing. Unfortunately transmission has to come out and fully apart to get to those seals. Low/reverse piston is literally the first part that goes in the case. I understand builders are trying to make deadlines and are rushed but those seals are easily air checked during rebuilding. However, sometimes things air check ok but still end up leaking. Either way this is builders fault. If he doesn't fix it find someone where you're moving that KNOWS 700-R4s and get them to check other builders work WITH DANA'S INSTRUCTIONS. Dana requires specific specs on clutchpack clearances, blocking passages, check ***** omitted, separator plate modifications, etc. Builder needs to stick to his recipe and not "do their own thing". Sucks to do things twice though...

paulo57509

This happened with my 4L60E rebuild. I didn't have the boost valve fully into the pump bore before putting in the snap ring.

All it takes is a pan drop to check and fix this (if needed). I needed a third hand to get the valve back into the pump, though.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

According to Randy at Randys Transmission, another local builder who personally built a friends transmission (I didn't know about him when I had it built originally), my builder butchered my tranny build. Parts were loose internally, a bolt had fallen loose and come out, a tube was missing. He's taking pictures. I was totally taken for a ride.

Floor guy

I feel your pain.
I had a couple of similar experiences.
Wishing you better luck on the next refresh.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I appreciate that!

I have the car back from the shop (Randy's) now and all I can say is wow...this thing is amazing. I have power now I never knew I had.

Now if I can figure out why my oil pressure is reading almost zero at idle...lol

Cars..ugh!