1989 D-Shaft and U-Joints
#1
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Car: BLACK 2004 Mercury Marauder
Engine: 4.6L DOHC V8
Transmission: 4R75W WORKED
Axle/Gears: 3.55 COBRA Diff, 31 spline axles
1989 D-Shaft and U-Joints
I've got an 89 Firebird 305 TBI and I'm doing heavy maintenance work on it.
The car clunks a little going into gear so I want to change the U-Joints.
I'm looking for a little help from those who know specifics on this model year.
There are supposedly Steel and Alum D-Shafts and they both use different size U-Joints.
According to Rock Auto there are 1-1/8"OD for Steel and 1-1/16"OD for Alum.
What is the chance of having an Alum shaft ?
Were most cars made with the steel D-Shaft ?
Worse case I just buy both sets of Joints and return the ones I don't use.
What are the best greasable joints to buy ? I've heard mixed stories
about MOOG parts and their quality, and some people swear by DANA.
Thanks,
The car clunks a little going into gear so I want to change the U-Joints.
I'm looking for a little help from those who know specifics on this model year.
There are supposedly Steel and Alum D-Shafts and they both use different size U-Joints.
According to Rock Auto there are 1-1/8"OD for Steel and 1-1/16"OD for Alum.
What is the chance of having an Alum shaft ?
Were most cars made with the steel D-Shaft ?
Worse case I just buy both sets of Joints and return the ones I don't use.
What are the best greasable joints to buy ? I've heard mixed stories
about MOOG parts and their quality, and some people swear by DANA.
Thanks,
#2
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Re: 1989 D-Shaft and U-Joints
Get off the internet.
Look at the driveshaft to determine material.
Use a magnet if it helps.
Light some sparklers and sing hooray you now know the material.
Then, forget all that, and measure the u-joints.
You'll find they are 3R or 1310. The sizes of these are easy to search and compare.
Spicer / Dana makes good joints. OEM joints were not greasable.
Look at the driveshaft to determine material.
Use a magnet if it helps.
Light some sparklers and sing hooray you now know the material.
Then, forget all that, and measure the u-joints.
You'll find they are 3R or 1310. The sizes of these are easy to search and compare.
Spicer / Dana makes good joints. OEM joints were not greasable.
Last edited by jmd; 08-05-2015 at 10:20 PM.
#3
Supreme Member
Re: 1989 D-Shaft and U-Joints
The best thing to do is crawl underneath and measure the u-joint cup diameter. Or try and stick a magnet to the drive shaft. I might do both just to make sure.
Either Moog or Dana would work provided they're not made in China. It's kind of a crap shoot these days to find anything made in USA.
Edit:
Either Moog or Dana would work provided they're not made in China. It's kind of a crap shoot these days to find anything made in USA.
Edit:
#4
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Car: BLACK 2004 Mercury Marauder
Engine: 4.6L DOHC V8
Transmission: 4R75W WORKED
Axle/Gears: 3.55 COBRA Diff, 31 spline axles
Re: 1989 D-Shaft and U-Joints
1310 Joint is starting to show up as DISCONTINUED...
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Re: 1989 D-Shaft and U-Joints
1310 Joint is starting to show up as DISCONTINUED
Get off the internet.
In addition to Moog and Dana, look at Precision and Neapco, for USA made parts. Avoid China, India, Thailand, Malaysia, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Indonesia, etc. (not because they're not fascinating to visit, or because they "can't" do good... great places to go see... just, in this day and time, if ANYBODY ANYWHERE in the world wants to make something REEEEEEEEEL CHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP, American Japanese German French Brazilian whatever company, that's where they go)
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Car: BLACK 2004 Mercury Marauder
Engine: 4.6L DOHC V8
Transmission: 4R75W WORKED
Axle/Gears: 3.55 COBRA Diff, 31 spline axles
Re: 1989 D-Shaft and U-Joints
Thanks for your help.
I don't do inexpensive / 'cheap'. I'm not one to ever do 'cheap'.
I'd rather pay more for a better quality part that gets installed and does the job right the first time.
I don't use the internet to hunt for 'bargains'.
If I can't get what I need locally, then I get it any way its available.
I don't do inexpensive / 'cheap'. I'm not one to ever do 'cheap'.
I'd rather pay more for a better quality part that gets installed and does the job right the first time.
I don't use the internet to hunt for 'bargains'.
If I can't get what I need locally, then I get it any way its available.
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Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: 1989 D-Shaft and U-Joints
I like Neapco Brute force non grease-able, forged body U joints.
Mine is going on 12 years on front, 5 years on rear (due to rear end swap) so far and even with a car running in the low 11's then mid 10's they are still holding up.
Most cars got the steel driveshaft and with yours being "just" a firebird LO3 car I would not think it has the alum. driveshaft. Best to get under there and check though.
The brute force joint for steel driveshaft will be part # 2-3011BF. I know advance auto parts stocks these for $20.99 each
Moog for steel driveshaft will be #234, 235, and 534G depending on greaseable or not, forged or not, etc
Spicer will be 5-3147X or 5-795X for steel shaft
Mine is going on 12 years on front, 5 years on rear (due to rear end swap) so far and even with a car running in the low 11's then mid 10's they are still holding up.
Most cars got the steel driveshaft and with yours being "just" a firebird LO3 car I would not think it has the alum. driveshaft. Best to get under there and check though.
The brute force joint for steel driveshaft will be part # 2-3011BF. I know advance auto parts stocks these for $20.99 each
Moog for steel driveshaft will be #234, 235, and 534G depending on greaseable or not, forged or not, etc
Spicer will be 5-3147X or 5-795X for steel shaft
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