WTR388

Well, good summer with the LS finished up, and it's a good thing the tires don't grab all that great, the 10 bolt was not happy back there.

So the cold weather is just around the corner, and that is when us Canadian gear heads do our work in the garage.

I'm starting the hunt tomorrow for an 8.8 from either a ranger or a mustang, with a limited slip in 3.73 or a 4.10 rear.
Reason for those specific vehicles is I'll be able to make my 10 bolt tubes slip in with some interference so I can plug weld and also the circumference where the tubes meet up, I'll use my current axles.
I'm also on the hunt for LS1 rear brake parts, mostly the backing plates ($100 on rock auto!) so I will also be converting over to discs at the same time. We have a $50 all you can carry promotion going on at the local recycling yard, so I can potentially do this very cheap.

My only real concern is the T/A mount. I'll be ditching the stock unit, and using the founders arm, simply because the mounting bolts for the arm are sideways and not vertical, this makes creating a mount easier.
My plan is to do something similar to pockets design here http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/DSC02632.jpg Only my "wings" will be welded to a vertical mount that is welded to the tube as close to the diff as possible, this gives me a greater leverage point. They will connect to the T/A mount on the top and bottom since I won't have to worry about the stock bolts... I'll wrap around the snout in a similar fashion as shown.
Likely use 3/16 plate to make my vertical tube mount (make a c-channel approx as tall/low as the diff center, with a notch cut out to slip the axle tube in to) and 1-1/2" .125 square tubing for the supports.

Second design possibility, using same T/A, and still wrapping around the snout, but have square tubing cut and welded to go from both axle tubes, one over the top, one under the diff and then weld my T/A mount supports in from those... Benefits to this are better angles since the load is applied axially with the support tubing and not off center. I could also throw a bolt through the top tube in to the top of the diff case to add some security.

Goal here is to upgrade cheaply and safely.

WTR388

Well, did some looking around, and according to a few sources, I have been blessed with 26 spline axles... meaning I need to buy axles, which I take a hit on for our exchange rate and shipping, which makes this no longer a budget build, so unless I find a 90+ third gen in the wrecking yard next week, I won't be doing the build and will save the pennies up until our exchange rate picks up and I can buy something pre-built.

zman1969

iTrader: (9)

I am doing a 8.8 for my fourth gen if you search on ls1tech under gears and axles "8.8 build" there are several threads and a guy known as Hiltsy makes a T/A mount and its 50$ all pieces are well cut and fits nice but someone with welding skills needs to do it cause your welding to the iron pumpkin the third and 4th are same except for width.
a 4.0L Ranger should have a 8.8 and is the housing to use - some use Explorers but the axle tubes are larger diameter and you would need to fab some sleeves to do it.
The stock 7.5 axle tubes are close to fitting the ranger housing - I am currently working mine for fitment with a 36 grit sanding disc grinder - so far its a little snug
The reason for using the ranger or explorer housing is the "wing" cast onto the center housing near companion flange this best works with the Hiltsy torque arm mount. I am planning on using my stock 28 spline axles in with a 28 spine posi but easy to upgrade to 31 spline axles if you get gustom made these are basically Ford version of 12 bolt and they are easily found cheap!

I believe GM went 28 spline in '88 so you would need 88-92 rear axles

cosmick

Since you're doing a bolt-on torque arm solution, I'd suggest just cutting the GM mounts off the GM tubes, then welding them onto a '99-'04 Mustang GT axle. It's very close in width, and comes with a 28-spline Traction-Lok that'll accept the '90-'92 GM shafts.
I wouldn't think of keeping the Mustang rear discs because they're non-vented. Adapting better brakes is easy.