Galaxie500XL

iTrader: (1)

Well, got my transmission back from the rebuilder, replaced the clutch, and am now the proud owner of a driveable 1988 L98 IROC-Z 5-speed.

It runs great, but it sure didn't start out that way.

So, to sum up, here's a tally of what was wrong with the previous owner's auto to manual transmission swap:


•left off the bellhousing inspection cover because:
•the wrong (large) starter was used on the car, and the inspection cover won't fit with the wrong starter(Thirdgen.org)..
•used a 9" V6 clutch behind a 350 because:
•the donor transmission was behind a V-6, and had a 14-spline input shaft--V8's used a 26-spine shaft.
•left off the clutch fork boot because:
•You can't simply walk into a parts store to buy one anymore. I had to buy a reproduction (Hawks).
•Used the WRONG clutch fork because:
•You got me, there...I didn't have a bit of a problem finding the right one for a V8 (Ebay).
•installed a needle bearing pilot bearing, but installed it BACKWARDS, because:
•Hey, they're the same inside diameter regardless of which direction you install it, right?
•The speedometer read 15 MPH slow at 60 MPH because:
•Math is hard, and it's just too much trouble to figure out what driven gear needs to be installed to have a useable speedometer.
•installed the shifter with a shifter boot split open halfway across the top, allowing dirt, water, and whatnot to drop into the shifter, then into the transmission because:
•You can't see the boot once the shifter is installed on the transmission, and what you can't see can't hurt you.

By the time I gathered everything together, the 10.5" 14-spline clutch disc, a new olite pilot bushing, a new 10.5" Centerforce pressure plate, had the flywheel machined, hunted down and bought a proper clutch fork boot, clutch fork, new throwout bearing and bellhousing inspection plate cover, the only thing I was able to reuse is a bellhousing that's been ground on in a weird way so the wrong starter "fits", and the clutch fork pivot ball. That clutch cost me over $550.00...and that's not including the new starter I'm going to have to buy. We won't even discuss the cost of having the transmission rebuilt because my son destroyed the cluster gear, and reverse slider gear two days after I bought the car, by trying to back up the car without using the clutch.

That being said, most of the pain I felt in dealing with all of that was instantly forgotten the first time I dropped the transmission down into 2nd gear at 30 MPH, and put the gas pedal nearly to the floor.



I just got a painful and expensive reminder why I've always until now avoided buying someone else's "project"....but it's tons of fun now. I'm just glad I'm able to do this stuff for myself.

And, thanks to all on Thirdgen, who gave me excellent advice, and sold me an inspection cover which allowed me to do my first clutch replacement right the FIRST time.

Formula 305

Don't take this the wrong way, but you should have expected this buying a project car, let alone a swapped project car. The previous owner cut corners & put in a V6 transmission, why wouldn't they cut corners everywhere else possible??

Also, for $550 dollar clutch at what point does it become more cost effective to just buy the proper transmission for the car?

Galaxie500XL

iTrader: (1)

Fair question...but none of what I found was obvious at all at the time I bought the car. The car was exactly what I'd been looking for, and in fantastic shape, at a reasonable price.

I'd have loved to have bought a different transmission, but after having spent to purchase the car, there wasn't much choice at this time but to fix what I had--a different transmission would have cost far more, and at least at this point, since it's been gone through thoroughly, at least I know what I have as far as condition.

The clutch would have had to be replaced regardless of what I did with the transmission...the only obvious external issue at purchase was the missing inspection plate (not unusual), and the missing clutch fork boot, which I didn't see before purchasing the car.

I intend to keep the car for the long haul--so at some point, I'm very likely to change the transmission--but at this point, I can enjoy the car as it is, knowing I've fixed things in the proper way.

Formula 305

The proper way is somewhat subjective, you still have a V6 trans behind a V8, and a big V8 at that. Your motor is probably a good 50 ft-lbs over the 300 ft-lb rating the V8 T-5 was given back in the day, & with the V6 input shaft & gear set I would strongly advise against beating on it at all, ever. Trying to launch or do burnouts would probably result in a very quick death of that 6 cylinder gearbox.

But if your not beating on it too hard than yes, I'd say its fixed properly.

Formula 305

The proper way is somewhat subjective, you still have a V6 trans behind a V8, and a big V8 at that. Your motor is probably a good 50 ft-lbs over the 300 ft-lb rating the V8 T-5 was given back in the day, & with the V6 input shaft & gear set I would strongly advise against beating on it at all, ever. Trying to launch or do burnouts would probably result in a very quick death of that 6 cylinder gearbox.

But if your not beating on it too hard than yes, I'd say its fixed properly.

Galaxie500XL

iTrader: (1)

Again, an excellent point.

I'm 52 years old, and my inclination to do hard launches left me a good 20 years ago.

I've waited 30 years to finally get one of these cars...and while I expect I'll drive it in a fairly spirited way from time to time, I doubt the car will see any really serious hammering...as long as I keep my sons away from it.

I talked to the rebuilder at pretty great length about what I expected to be doing with the car; he seemed to feel as long as I wasn't beating on it, I should do fine.

Granted, particularly 1st gear isn't ideal, but with a 2.73 rear axle, it's not terribly unreasonable. The first thing I'd be likely to do if I changed my mind about what I intend to do with the car would be to most likely swap to a T56, and an LS or LT engine...but that's likely several years away, if ever.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Galaxie500XL.... That sounds about like a parts car I bought a few weeks ago. I bought it to strip and sell parts off of it, so not near as bad as like what you got to build and drive.

Here is what I got.... Being your above story, you will love this.
1989 RS, V6, auto trans car
1973 Nova 350 engine
041 heads
Torker II intake
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
Factory elec. fuel pump still running, No pressure reg. (fuel just spraying out of the top of carb)

V6 14 spline T5 trans (codes on tag 61UUP_U WG 13-52-156)
14" 168 tooth flywheel #3973458N D227
Cast iron #3925505 1968-72 chevy/gmc truck bellhousing that they tried to mod to bolt slave cylinder up too.

#376537GM178BM clutch fork that they welded onto for the hyd. clutch setup

Auto shift plate hacked out to somewhat fit, No boots or anything around shifter/top of trans.

Full size SUV seats (front and rear) sat over in the car with 1 bolt holding each front seat in cause that is all that would line up/fit., No bolts in rear bottoms, plumbers pipe strap holding rear back in.