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Picked up a 3550, Pro 5.0 shifter, and SFI bellhousing off a guy on the cheap, $250. I seen the transmission in action but it was mostly powershifts. While it did shift and only had trouble coming into 2nd, it seemed maybe ok.
I wasn't going to waste my time installing it in the car before I looked inside.
After opening it up, i'm surprised this thing shifted into any gear.
The dog teeth are completely missing from 2nd gear side of the 1-2 slider, it is a little hard to tell from this picture. For some reason that is the only picture I have of that side of the slider.
Engagement teeth on 2nd gear are getting rounded. Same with the synchro ring.
3rd gear isn't looking terrible.
Starting to show the 3-4 slider teeth on the 3rd gear side.
4th Gear slide with broken synchro ring.
4th Gear clutch cone.
Defiantly needs a synchro/blocker ring kit, 4th gear clutch cone, and 1-2 synchronizer assembly. I'm not sure about the 3-4 synchronizer and the engagement teeth on 2nd and 3rd gears.
Needs a lot of work to make it new again. Not sure If I will put the parts into it or not.
Do you think that other than the obvious things like synchronizer hubs and rings, that the transmission is serviceable?
If anyone has good used parts, PM me. The internals are almost universal across the different lines, 3550, 3550TKO, TKO, TKO500, TKO600.
The gears are prob OK. Looks like they ran a bad clutch for a REAL long time, which carved off the blocker rings, which let the sleeve crash onto the gears. I say clutch because it's ALL of em, even 1st, which you would hardly expect to get crashed while racing.
How much metal is in the fluid? Looks like there should be quite a bit of chips? If so, it'll likely need bearings, in addition to sleeves & rings.
No "cones" in there that I know of, with the possible exception of what the blocker rings are around; but that's just part of the gears.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 04-13-2016 at 06:19 PM.
Yeah; the gears are likely salvageable.
I'm not even sure the 3-4 slider isn't saveable without a peek.
Were you going to fit this behind a Chevy possibly?
The gears are prob OK. Looks like they ran a bad clutch for a REAL long time, which carved off the blocker rings, which let the sleeve crash onto the gears. I say clutch because it's ALL of em, even 1st, which you would hardly expect to get crashed while racing.
How much metal is in the fluid? Looks like there should be quite a bit of chips? If so, it'll likely need bearings, in addition to sleeves & rings.
No "cones" in there that I know of, with the possible exception of what the blocker rings are around; but that's just part of the gears.
I'm a rookie when it come to transmissions. What do you mean by the hubs?
The fluid was metallic but no metal chunks. I drained it into a pan and checked it. So either it was drained prior, or the fluid was changed once or twice. Bearing are quiet and smooth.
When I say 4th gear clutch cone, that is only what the manual calls it. 4th gear engagement seems pretty chewed up. The engagement teeth are separate from the input shaft and can be replaced. They look gnarled up, but are almost better looking that the other teeth.
Hopefully tomorrow I have a Ford Master tech that specializes in transmissions coming over to check it out. I will update his opinion when he looks at it.
Yeah; the gears are likely salvageable.
I'm not even sure the 3-4 slider isn't saveable without a peek.
Were you going to fit this behind a Chevy possibly?
It is a GM setup. Was wanting to put it behind my 350 in the 1985 Z28. Posted above that hopefully I have a tech to stop by and give opinion.
Sleeve = the piece that moves to do the actual shifting (what people call "slider")
If the clutch portion of the gear is separate from the gear itself (i.e. the main teeth part), such as if they spline together, then that must be the part they are calling the "cone". Most car transmissions aren't made that way: the shifting portion and the teeth/shaft portion are all one piece.
It looks salvageable to me. I have no idea what the parts will cost, but I'm pretty sure it can successfully be fixed. Back in the day, when my little bro & I had a lively business in 4-spds, we revived ALOT of Muncies & T-10s that were WAY worse tore up than that. Wasn't cheeeep, but was still less than buying a whole new transmission.
I remember when they released the version of the 3550 that was intended for T5 third-gens, the cost was steep, but the strength was impressive. I'd say you got a steal, I'd definitely save that.
I remember when they released the version of the 3550 that was intended for T5 third-gens, the cost was steep, but the strength was impressive. I'd say you got a steal, I'd definitely save that.
That is the way I look at it. Even if I don't fix the transmission, the SFI bellhousing and Pro 5.0 shifter are worth more than what I paid.
Sleeve = the piece that moves to do the actual shifting (what people call "slider")
If the clutch portion of the gear is separate from the gear itself (i.e. the main teeth part), such as if they spline together, then that must be the part they are calling the "cone". Most car transmissions aren't made that way: the shifting portion and the teeth/shaft portion are all one piece.
It looks salvageable to me. I have no idea what the parts will cost, but I'm pretty sure it can successfully be fixed. Back in the day, when my little bro & I had a lively business in 4-spds, we revived ALOT of Muncies & T-10s that were WAY worse tore up than that. Wasn't cheeeep, but was still less than buying a whole new transmission.
4th gear is the only gear with a replaceable clutch. Maybe it was designed that way so the whole input shaft wouldn't have to be replaced if the teeth were worn down, like in this case.
I called Tremec and they told me to call Modern Driveline and they tell me that the sleeve cannot be purchased separate from the hub and a entire synchronizer assembly must be purchased. The whole 1-2 assembly is $260 but comes with new keys, springs, and 1-2 blocker rings.
It's normal for a synchronizer to be replaced as an assembly these days; slider-only replacement is pretty much no longer. Get pics of your 3-4 once you have things disassembled.
If you're doing the tear-down & build, we can walk you through what's needed (and not.)
Keep going, and get a full inspection on the bearings. Based on what things look like currently, you might not need bearings.
$ 250 is a good starting point for sure.
Whatever history / articles anyone can post on the 3550 Chevy version would be cool reading. I never followed that line.
Whatever history / articles anyone can post on the 3550 Chevy version would be cool reading. I never followed that line.
Because it was so far out of my budget, I paid it very little attention, but I think it required a Ford C6 slip yoke, and had the same 3.27 / 1.98 / 1.34 / 1.00 / 0.68 ratios as the Mustang version. Torque rating aside, much stronger than any T5 then possible, the T56 hadn't happened yet, the Corvette ZF was even less of an option.
It makes me ( and robably many others ) envious and angry when we read of someone else getting a deal we want but can't get, whether this or a T56 or even non-trans, it's impossible to be happy for you, so to everyone reading this please stop bragging about the low prices you pay for stuff, you'll make more friends if everyone thinks you have to pay just as much as the rest of us.
It makes me ( and probably many others ) envious and angry when we read of someone else getting a deal we want but can't get, whether this or a T56 or even non-trans, it's impossible to be happy for you, so to everyone reading this please stop bragging about the low prices you pay for stuff, you'll make more friends if everyone thinks you have to pay just as much as the rest of us.
Wow , really ?
I'm happy as Hell to read when a fellow third gen owner gets a great deal on performance parts , cause hearing things like that means there ARE good deals out there , if someone is willing to search around and be patient . I have never been one to be jealous over someone's good fortune since we all have times when things "fall into our lap" , like the time I bought an antique TV at a yard sale for $50 cause I thought it would look good in my basement workshop/hangout , only to be offered $3500 for it from a TV collector cause it turned out to be a pre WW2 set that was rare as hen's teeth ! Naturally I jumped on the $3.5K cause I am not an antique TV collector , I just wanted an old TV to look good sitting in the corner of the shop . So , I bought another old TV for $100 to take it's place , and came out $3400 ahead ! Sure , the TV was actually worth closer to $4K , and the collector was honest and upfront about that , but I wasn't about to quibble over $500 when originally all I thought I had was a $50 TV !
You'll find life a bit nicer if you come to appreciate other folk's good fortune the same way you appreciate your own .
Last edited by OrangeBird; 04-15-2016 at 10:26 AM.
The mechanic that said he was coming to look at it has never shown up yet. So I may start disassembling the main shaft and take pictures along the way of each part and see what you all have to say.
You may as well build it yourself.
Grab the Tremec PDF rebuild guide and ask questions here along the way.
For some combinations, it's tough to find something in between the wider ratio V6 stuff and the closer ratio V8 stuff; the ratios in that should be a happy combo.
I never followed the TKO line, feeling they were Ford-intended. It's interesting to see Tremec going so far back making the Chevy version.
You may as well build it yourself.
Grab the Tremec PDF rebuild guide and ask questions here along the way.
For some combinations, it's tough to find something in between the wider ratio V6 stuff and the closer ratio V8 stuff; the ratios in that should be a happy combo.
I never followed the TKO line, feeling they were Ford-intended. It's interesting to see Tremec going so far back making the Chevy version.
I feel I would have no problems rebuilding the mainshaft. I've watched many videos about rebuilding them and there are no parts that need pressed on or off. Looks to be a simple disassemble and reassemble job.
I'm just dissapointed that the mechanic doesn't seem to want to stop by and tell me what actually needs replacing and what can be re-used. If I am going to need to replace $750 worth of parts, then I don't think its worth it.
$250 + $750 = $1000 for a known strong, proper ratios V8-capable 5 spd. isn't a bad entry fee in my book. In comparison, a new T5-Z is more, doesn't fit your car, and is weaker. Yeah, it's great to get a screaming deal. But a new TKO is what, $2400 USD; more in CAD now? You're doing okay.
I didn't bother taking pictures of the 1-2 slider because even I know that it is shot and needs replaced.
The counter shaft spins in the case with almost silently. I assume the bearings look like the mainshaft ones. There are no scoring marks and if I run my fingernail across the bearing race I don't catch anything rough.
I would like to know If I can reuse the 4th gear engagement cone, 2nd and 3rd gears. The 3-4 slider looks rough but I don't know how worn is too worn.
I will also add that besides the broken 4th gear ring and worn teeth on the rest, they all almost fit tight against the engagement teeth. There was not the .30-.60" gap that is recommended. Even pushing them on as hard as I could onto the cone I could still turn them, barely, but still could. They must be extremely worn. New synchronizer assemblys come with rings.
I finally had a transmission mechanic come over and check everything out. It was not encouraging. He said he would probably replace every part that I had disassembled.
That includes:
1-2 synchronizer assembly
3-4 synchronizer assembly
2nd gear
3rd gear
4th gear clutch cone
All bearings and seals
That is $1000 worth of parts. Unless I can find good used parts I don't think I will be rebuilding this transmission.
There are some builders of automatics whose diagnostics skills in a synchromesh trans. are lacking. Proper synchronization does not require razor sharp, brand new teeth points. What's required is once the blocker ring has done it's job to slow down or speed up the gear / shaft so (gear to synchro ring) match speeds. Then the teeth of (gear to synchro ring) need to push past each other. Like people in a hallway. If they shift laterally upon bumping into each other, the synchro will then be able slide and work. Chipped away surfaces are bad. Smooth but still rounded peak teeth are okay. Smeared teeth with a left or right tilt aren't good. Teeth with material that's divoted isn't good.
4th Gear engagement cone could be re-used if the surfaces are smoothed. It's not peaked to an advance or retard position. In this case, replace it because you can.
The 3-4 synchro teeth don't look terrible but your pics focus less on the inside than on the outside. I'm voting save it at this point. Your second pic in post # 21 is the worst.
Your 3rd gear is basically the same. It ould be made to work. But, most of the time, you want to put together once.
Your 2nd gear is a semi-bad example of what I call smearing. The teeth are pushed over. And I've seen worse. It's the single worst component. And like many hamfist drivers' transmissions, 2nd usually does take the brunt of the abuse.
Your bearings aren't all junk. Yet. You already reviewed their condition. They saw some material contamination, but many could be re-used. The rear mainshaft bearing outer race , I nominate to replace. I'm guessing it's the worst.
I assume you will end up with the carbon lined blockers available for the 3550 / TKO. You'll want to pre-soak these in ATF a half hour before assembly. A tub of assemblee goo can be ordered with your parts or Napa carries it, or I'm sure you can find it. You can't use too much on bearings and it helps hold stuff like key/struts in place.
You might find some information on the T5 and 3550/TKO regarding bearing pre-load. Unfortunately they didn't put a tapered bearing at the nose of your mainshaft; a feature I like in the T56/Cobra T5 compared to the reg. T5. Don't go with the loose shimming dimensions recommended by Tremec.
2GS looks like some teeth are worn, but the 3550 teeth are a more rounded mound profile when new instead of a peak so it is a little tough for me to tell; I am used to T5, T56, TR6060. I think the important point (ha!) is the top of the mountains in your final pic looks shifted over. That happens with gross rpm mismatches. When in doubt, a new one is probably a good bet. Or, profile teeth on that side to a healthier peak, use it on 1st, and use the gooder side for 2nd.
2G actually looks serviceable. The wear I am seeing looks like it would merge with synchro teeth rather than bump and stop against them.
3GS makes me think (after looking at it and 2GS,) the 3550 synchro teeth are more blunt than some other synchro designs. Compare to new. Maybe they need perspective. It has that " worn but would work fine a long time" look.
3G looks like it has a chunk out of the tooth at 12:00 in the 2nd pic. Chunk / flattish surface the synchro will bump against is bad. But again, it may be the fat girl 3550 synchro teeth throwing me off.
2GS looks like some teeth are worn, but the 3550 teeth are a more rounded mound profile when new instead of a peak so it is a little tough for me to tell; I am used to T5, T56, TR6060. I think the important point (ha!) is the top of the mountains in your final pic looks shifted over. That happens with gross rpm mismatches. When in doubt, a new one is probably a good bet. Or, profile teeth on that side to a healthier peak, use it on 1st, and use the gooder side for 2nd.
2G actually looks serviceable. The wear I am seeing looks like it would merge with synchro teeth rather than bump and stop against them.
3GS makes me think (after looking at it and 2GS,) the 3550 synchro teeth are more blunt than some other synchro designs. Compare to new. Maybe they need perspective. It has that " worn but would work fine a long time" look.
3G looks like it has a chunk out of the tooth at 12:00 in the 2nd pic. Chunk / flattish surface the synchro will bump against is bad. But again, it may be the fat girl 3550 synchro teeth throwing me off.
I am going to replace 3rd gear and the 3-4 synchronizer assembly because they are inexpensive.
I might try and bring the 2nd gear parts back to a point.
Will 2nd gear and the synchronizer function properly if I use a tiny dremel wheel and bring them to a point trying not to take much off? I could bring them to a point but the peak angle will change, become a lower angle. Unfortunatley it looks it might loose even more of the height of the point if I do so. But it would return a peaked point.
I have 100% confidence in my dremel ability.
Here is a picture I drew of what I am talking about. Rounded off teeth in black and a new point cut shown in red.
A peak isn't ideal. What is, is two sets of teeth that try to sidestep each other without stopping slider travel.
Yes, you can work a bit on the ramps, without taking much off the top, leaving it fairly rounded. Less is more.
Hardened materials are surface hardened, the vast majority of the time. This applies to synchro sliders, gears, and splined shafts. In theory the slider teeth, ground down enough, will be into softer material for their work surface. However, the 3550 synchro teeth stand proud of the slider, which means they are probably very thoroughly treated compared to teeth which are not elevated above the slider ring at all.
Hope that helps. A warning: around august, I am going to want to get out of this heat and come drive your finished rebuilt 5 speed! Good luck.
04-13-2016, 08:15 AM
Wow , really ? 
I'm happy as Hell to read when a fellow third gen owner gets a great deal on performance parts , cause hearing things like that means there ARE good deals out there , if someone is willing to search around and be patient . I have never been one to be jealous over someone's good fortune since we all have times when things "fall into our lap" , like the time I bought an antique TV at a yard sale for $50 cause I thought it would look good in my basement workshop/hangout , only to be offered $3500 for it from a TV collector cause it turned out to be a pre WW2 set that was rare as hen's teeth ! Naturally I jumped on the $3.5K cause I am not an antique TV collector , I just wanted an old TV to look good sitting in the corner of the shop . So , I bought another old TV for $100 to take it's place , and came out $3400 ahead ! Sure , the TV was actually worth closer to $4K , and the collector was honest and upfront about that , but I wasn't about to quibble over $500 when originally all I thought I had was a $50 TV ! 
You'll find life a bit nicer if you come to appreciate other folk's good fortune the same way you appreciate your own . 
