1984HO

iTrader: (1)

hey guys recently picked up a used currie 9 inch 31 spline trac lock, that had 3.50 gears which were too low for my t56 so i swapped gears to 4.30s (usa standard gear) just looking for opinions i think this pattern is acceptable but just looking for those more knowledgeable in this area than myself (ie biggearhead etc) anyway these pics are with 23 thousandths pinion shim and backlash set at .009 thousandths (spec is 6-10 )

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Looks very good to me.

big gear head

Pretty good. I'd like to see it with the coast side wiped off a little more. Turn it several more times backwards to clean off the compound a little more.

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

this one any better ? it almost seemed like the compound was drying haha was thicker than other types ive used , also guy while i have you here the instructions only specified GL5 fluid and that synthetic is recommended but no mention of viscosity or if additive should be used, the lucas 85-140 i used in the old 10bolt seemed fine without additive, but the ford 9 inch is a different animal

big gear head

The Trac Lock is a clutch type differential that requires the oil additive. 89W90 or 75W90 will be fine.

I actually got it crossed up. It was the drive side that wasn't marked well. The pattern looks fine to me. The 9 inch patterns are usually not shaped the same as other rear ends.

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

this is the only other pic i have and this isnt the side in question lol. i think i will prolly run it as is, cant be any worse than the 10bolt hahah

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

whats the pinon preload set at..(17 to 22 inch lbs) ball park..

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

hey arctic pinion was at about 9-11 inch pounds (used bearings) got the whole thing installed today .....its gotta come back out.. something inside the actual trak-lok is either very worn or broken, with the car in gear i can turn the wheels forward and back about 1.25 inches (as viewed form the side of the vehicle) without any movement of the pinion, but gears were quiet on my very brief test drive. that play translates to a very odd loose feeling as you trasition from on to off the throttle and is made worse if the vehicle is cornering especially if the clutch is being released ( further making me think its a differential problem ) i think at this point im gonna send it back to currie to be thoroughly inspected. but thanks to all for the input from you guys about the gear pattern, that is the least of this things issue lol

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

just got my new one set up..
do you have all the right Friction Modifiers added to the Lube?? (if its that type)


upgrade parts....

dropping a few lbs..even the ring gear has had the back cut to drop 2lbs off if it..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

have good used Detroit Lockers. 3.25 bearings under $200 shipped.. install and drive...(G Force 31 spline lockers)nothing but good lube needed..

big gear head

Exactly what differential do you have and where did it come from? Do you have pictures of the differential? In your other pictures it looks like you have a Detroit Locker.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

That's what I thought he had as well.
If so, that diff behavior is 100% completely normal and is a bit crazy to grasp every time its driven,

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

i will be honest i assumed it was just a trac lok , but my knowledge of 9 inches is limited the seller disclosed this condition but had found a bad lower control arm bushing, however in my vehicle all the control arms and and torque arm bushings are poly and new, i have a video of what i described let me see if i can upload it , im gonna pull the third member in the morning and can get some better pics then of the diff itself ,

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

here is the video ... you notice the pinion moves very little but i can rotate the tires a good bit and this "play" is transmitted throught the driveline when your on or off the throttle especially around corners or when taking off with the steering wheel turned, im using the lucas 85-140 gear oil (thats the viscosity that currie recommends as far as i could tell on thier site) the bottle states that the limited slip additive is not required but i can always add it

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

here is the one other pic i have ( man i wish i would have taken more Grrrr)
it didnt make sense that the gears and bearing were is mint condition but the diff was broken , but maybe its normal and im just not used to lockers

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

you have a locker..looking close at your pics... and the movement is norm. looking at your video.
and going by your first pic in your 1st post... I think I see the locker spring in the case hole...

when your driving it forward it will lock wheels together within 10 feet of a strait line.(burn out box you need to drive strait for 10 feet)
when you turn left or right. you will feel it push your car forward on the inside wheel/power wheel.. sorta neat feeling...you will feel the lock of the rear end..as you come out of a left or right hand turn...this will happen when leaving from a stop sighn. or light/making the turn...want to do a 360..start power before making the turn...lol...should not have a ratchting sound. it might make a locking unlocking sound in or out of a corner/turning 90deg. like from a light.. or a U turn.. not on a highway turn/sweeping

your pattern in the 2nd pic of your 1st post. im thinking should be a bit more to the toe side of the ring gear. as you add power.
it will climb/go outward..but I'm into adding power..+400 and more

big gear head

Yea, you have a Detroit Locker. A locker is completely different. It has a lot more clearance in it, and it will pop and jerk when you are driving. I think what you have is normal and I wouldn't bother removing it.

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

yea thats what i have come to realize, i need to have the dive shaft legnthed about and inch (probably due to the motor mount plates for the ls swap) as i only have about and inch of the driveshaft yoke in the tranny, then i will drive it some more, also have to fab up some mounts for the rear sway bar. thanks you gear head and arctic for the help with the ID of my diff, i apologize for what must seem like a rookie mistake haha, hopefully my gear setup means the 4.33's will stay fairly quiet (theyre usa standard which as i understand are yukon brand)

big gear head

USA Standard is Yukon's economy brand.

Your drive shaft is not long enough because the 9 inch has a shorter pinion shaft than the GM rear ends. You can help this by using a longer car yoke. The car yoke is about an inch longer than the shorter truck yoke. All of the after market yokes are the shorter truck version. I don't know of anyone who makes new car yokes.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

before you spend money on your drive shaft.. look at your yoke and what size you have.
a yoke is less spendy to replace. and you can get one a full inch longer.

take a look at my pics I posted.. and a yoke you can replace your self with tools. remove and replace ..your done.
I also have a brand new long yoke from curri entps set up for the Datona support that will bolt right up. (see pics above) $100 shipped set up for the 1330 u joints.. bolt in to GM drive line. curri sells them for $103 + shipping..(new in box)just so ya know..

big gear head

ArticwhiteZ, I didn't know anyone made the longer car yoke. Who made the one that you have?

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

currie enterprise has them made. and had the cut to fit the Daytona support.
I have a new one in a box I had sent out to me 2 weeks ago.. its it the pic I posted next to a billet yoke above..

I think it's a copy of the old for truck yoke... the one I have in the above pic in the 3rd member is one with over 1lb cut off it...
dropping the lbs off any place I can..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

the gears are good gears. selling in the same price ballpark as most others.
Yukons's name on them is US Gear. I have run them. zoom.richmond. even ones sold under a life time warrenty...don't pay more then $200 (9")a set shipped for any gear set...unless they are polished.(no need for a street car)...just sayn.

big gear head

I build rear ends for a guy running a 200 MPH FOX Mustang in the 10.5 tire class. His complete chunk weighs 42 pounds when I'm finished. A stock Ford truck chunk weighs 84 pounds.

Next time I need one of the long car yokes I'll check with Currie.

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

i actually took a closer look at the drive shafts side by side and the 4th gen one i ran with the 10 bolt is about 1 inch longer than the 1350 series one that came with the rear end , so i think if i just get the conversion u-joint i should be fine with the 4th gen one, is there a recommend depth the slip yoke is supoosed to be inside the tailshaft of the t56 ? it would end up about 2 inches in if my measurements are correct

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

the one above is in the 40 to 45lbs ball part.. gestamet..

from currie they look like a stock long yoke..with seal cover (my top pics).. you can also get one from Fast Shafts. with turned down to make it a bit lighter (a bit over 1lb) removed.. it is the one I have on the 3rd member in the pics above...

the standard long unit runs about $70 (yoke)
cut to fit the Daytona pinon support $103 from currie + shipping
from Fast Shafts turnd down $70. turnd done with Daytona support cut $113
shipped.

I'm sending one back. the one from currie. as I found the one from fast shafts after I got the one from currie.

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

hey just confirm what everyone had said and to help others avoid this situation lol here is a pic of the diff that i found that showed the a number engraved on the body of the diff the last 3 numbers are 17b which are the last 3 digits of the detriot locker 9 inch part number(187SL17B). mystery solved thanks guys

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

locker is the strongest ya can get..with out going to a spool. when ya know how to use it..you will not want anything else...

big gear head

Yea, I've had a Detroit Locker in my Camaro for 25 years or more. I've had a Lock Right in my truck for 19 years. I love them, but they are not for everybody. Some people can't take the jerking and popping that you get sometimes. You have to learn how to work the clutch to keep it smooth at low speeds.

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

yea i only drove it a little before removing the driveshaft, but it would seem clutch work at low speed would be critical to keeping everything smooth, I'm sure with some time and practice i will get it haha

big gear head

I found that using a higher gear than normal helps keep it calm. If I'm driving slow through a parking lot I use 2nd gear where I would normally use 1st. Letting the clutch slip some also helps.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

iv never had ant problems with mine... have a few. I have used.. only the goofy push coming out of a corner.. no clicking clunking..never..

big gear head

You are running an automatic transmission. It's completely different with a manual transmission.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

yes auto...
took out the rear end to get it set for the new gears..

the castiron 3rd member setup. go's into a plastic box and starts getting dusty
this is a complete currie entps. 9" set up. no TQ arm..
this was left sitting under my car for 10" years..and it shows it.. dropped a rod 3 weeks after install back in 2003.
the set of bars never got installed all the way.. just pinon set.. the rod went south...

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

arctic is it just me or are the axle flanges rotated 90 degrees on your rear end?? is that done for a reason ?? never seen that before haha. just curious
as biggear said the manual makes it more noticeable because i think the release and engagement of the clutch can effect the locker itself maybe , almost gives it a feeling of "windup" i guess you would call it , that was the most noticeable part for me

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

that's the way Currie sets them up for a bolt in 9" that takes the factory parts..
this 9" takes 30 to 40 min to install..and about 20 min to remove..
it comes with re drilled disk brake plates. it fits 100% when I installed it.

ill pick up another aluminum housing. and swap all the parts over it from the cast iron housing. as ya never know when ya might need to run a locker with 4.11 gears

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Interesting that currie does the flanges that way. My Moser isn't like that and factory pbr disc are on it.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

do you have the larg axle bearings... over 3". mine is..and my PBR calipers sit in the facty location.. don't know why...
could come down to a goof. as they used GM backing plates. with redrilled holes.. but that was done back in 1991/92. when the car was still new.. after braking 2 or 3 7.5 pinon gears..

1984HO

iTrader: (1)

my currie is setup to use the explorer brakes and the flanges are horizontal (90 degrees rotated from how artics are) and mine uses the large tapered bearing (i think its called torino style)

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Yup, I have the large torino bearings on my axles. Maybe they did it for the drum brake backing plates

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

my 92 has always been 4 wheel disk.. PBR rear brakes..and it came with plates bolted on..from Currie..
all I did was add oil. and calipers from my car. also I have small ring spacers in ea side. to hold the axels inplace for proper brake alinment.. I know they don't make this style anymore. as I just talked to them a week ago.. looking at upgrading to a Fab 9 Housing..like the way it looks..