eddie jr

So i took the 91 posi disc rearend i have to a shop to change the gears for me. Turns out a new axle shaft was required as well due to a seal groove (not sure brand he used, maybe AAM). When i got it back to re-assemble brakes etc i had to beat on the pinion shaft to get it out. Now putting it back in, same situation and i can't get it all the way in with a deadblow hammer and beating like crazy. I don't want to use a regular hammer due to the bearings. It appears that the new axleshaft is just a hair too long as it seems to stick in farther than the other original one. There is also zero end play on it with the pinion shaft in, unlike the other one.

Has anyone encountered this before? I am thinking it might put excessive side pressure on the spider/piinion gears and cause problems there if i put the shaft all the way in. I was also debating about shaving just a tiny bit of the end of the axle shaft, but not sure if that is a good way to go.

Any thoughts?

redneckjoe

do you think lightly sanding the c-clip would help?

big gear head

He used a cheap axle. AAM axles fit with no problems. I've seen this with the cheap axles before. The c clip button on the end of the axle is too thick. It should be .250 inch thick.

eddie jr

Do u think there would be an issue shaving just a tiny bit of the end? if you can't get it perfectly square my concern would be the axle either digging into the pinion shaft or allowing in and out movement and maybe causing a vibration.

THe first one he said they sent the wrong one, then this was the second one. I can't remember the brand he said (if he even did) but if i recall it was about $140 or $150. Not sure what cheap ones go for........

big gear head

Yes, you can remove some metal from the end of the axle. You need to have something to measure it with so that you take off the correct amount. Dial calipers work well. The button is suppose to be .250. Put the axle on something flat like a work bench. The axle needs to be able to roll flat, so let the flange hang off of the bench. Roll the axle with your hand and use a 4 1/2 inch grinder to remove metal while the axle is rolling. Try to keep the end flat and smooth. Measure it in several places to be sure that you are keeping it the same thickness all the way around. Be sure to put a small chamfer on it after you get it to the correct thickness.

eddie jr

So it is normal to have a little end play on the axles (when pinion shaft is in) and for the pinion shaft to pretty much slide in by hand, correct?

I guess i will pull the axles and compare to see the differences first. I just want this darn thing in but I am debating about waiting until tomorrow and call the guy to see what he says. Since he left it like that i am sure i will get nowhere and he will say that is perfectly fine and i doubt he would take the axle back now.

big gear head

Yes, it should have some end play. The ideal clearance is around .005 to .010 inch.

eddie jr

Ok, about to pull the axles and it appears that the new one (left in pic) likely has a fatter "button".

eddie jr

So going by the moser website (i think that was the brand i looked up) they are supposed to be 30 5/16" in length. With both out now, the stock one is definitely 30 5/16" from the back of the flange but the new one is almost 1/16" longer.

I cant find my good caliper right now but with a cheapo one the button on the stock one is slightly over 3/16" and the one on the new shaft seems to be right on 1/4".

There was a # on the axle flange (MG27126) which comes up in a google search as Ten Factory by Motive Gear. Ever have any experience with them?

This was the second axle as he said the first one didn't fit.......actually i think his exact words were "they sent the wrong one". So i am now wondering if it was the same deal with the first one too? More delays don't make me happy but at this point, before modifying, i think i will take a chance and call him tomorrow to discuss and see if i can get anywhere. If i can get this one returned and then by another brand that would be preferable to modifying.

ANother question since i noticed it was noticeably heavier........is it an issue to do only one axle?

big gear head

I like to replace axles in pairs, but sometimes the cost doesn't justify it. Ten Factory is one of the economy brands in my opinion. I like Tom's Differentials, AAM and Moser best for street replacement axles.

midias

I was very happy with the summit brand axles, came with new bearing, seals and studs about $215.

paulo57509

If you go by application (1991 F-Body) the Ten Factory P/N could be either an MG27126 or an MG22103 (according to the Jeg's catalog; they're the only one's that have a "backward" catalog that I've found). What's the diff (no pun intended) between the two?

I just don't trust aftermarket catalogs....never will.

eddie jr

The other one appears to come with seals, bearings and studs.

Ok, so the story gets stranger now. I called him up and told him the story and said i would prefer a new axle shaft that fits......no modifying since i paid a lot for this work. He ended up ordering me another one (different brand) and even put new studs in and gave me new oil. I get it home and it is the same length as the motive one (slightly too long) but the button on the end is even wider yet from the motive one which is wider than the stock ones!!! Now i am really lost, why all this variation? Are the GM cross shafts always perfect cylinders or do some already have grooves cut out of the side to allow for longer axles with the 28 splines?

So now i am starting to think if i can ever get an aftermarket axle that fits right. Could there also be something else going on here like the side gear not over far enough? Although the axle is longer, so i still think that is the issue. But this seems that that two different manufacturers have the same length, and this one apparently makes a lot of OE axles for applications.

paulo57509

After you slide the axle in and fit the c-clip, are you then grabbing the axle hub and pulling them outwards before you try to install the pinion shaft?

All the times that I've had to R&R pinion shafts, they practically fall out due to their own weight and fit back in with finger pressure. Hammering??

big gear head

If the button on the end of the axle is thicker than .025" then the axle is the problem. Don't over think this. It's not the gear or the shaft or anything else, it's the axle. The button must be .250" for it to work.

eddie jr

hmmmmm, that's not helping my confusion at all.......the motive one (first aftermarket axle) has a button that is 0.25", but the stock ones are smaller at just barely over 3/16".

eddie jr

So here is a comparison between the three:

Stock:


Motive axle:


The newest axle:

big gear head

The last one is much thicker than .250. I'll have to check some of my 7.5 axles, but I don't recall any of them having a button that is thicker than .250.

eddie jr

What about thinner though? Since the stock ones are definitely thinner than 0.250" and the motive axle (the one in the middle and is 0.250") won't allow the cross shaft to go in. That is what started this all.

big gear head

If I can remember to do it I will check some of my axles and see if any of them are thinner. I don't remember ever seeing one thinner than .250 and I don't know why yours would be that way. I'll look into it a little more and see what I can find out.