Base91

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking of doing the 3.4 'upgrade' at some point and there's one in a local pick 'n' pull. I can get the long block for $150 but no idea of course of the internal state of the engine. Roughly how long should it take to remove? Are there any special tools needed or are assorted wrenches, sockets and screw drivers enough? Any tips and/or tricks to make it easier? Also, is the long block all I should take or are any of the other parts useful/necessary? My vague plan at the moment is to start with the 3.4 block and maybe later try the hybrid approach. Long term I'd like to get to 200-250 hp.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

If it's in a car at the wreckers that you're trying to remove the 3.4 from, then pay to have them do it.

The 4th gens requires the engine to be dropped out the bottom with the front sub frame, so you will need some way of lifting the body off the front suspension.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Rats. Any idea how much that would normally cost? I'm in CA. What if I did all the disconnects and then just had them lift it when done? What's in the way? The car is currently sitting on stacked wheel rims. Does that car have the 4L60E trans?

Guest

I pulled my 3.4 from a '93 Firebird, with the car sitting up on welded-together wheels.
The V6 comes out the top, through the hood opening, very easily. I still had the intake manifold and 4L60E on the engine when I pulled it, but I had removed the whole hood entirely.
I had to remove one of the mount brackets first. I forget which side. The other bracket stayed on the block.
I removed the water pump, oil filter adapter, exhaust, coil pack, alternator, P/S pump, a/c compressor, and starter, plus all their assorted bracketry before pulling the engine. I knew I wouldn't need that.
I only removed the trans after the engine was out of the car.
It's the LS1s that have to come out the bottom. Getting the LT1 out the top has been done.
I had no help, and no special tools, and it took me less than 4 hours to get the engine unfastened, out, paid for, and into the back of a pickup truck.
Just in case you don't do the hybrid right away, get the long block, and the injectors. Also get the damper and flexplate.
If you get a 30 day exchange policy, then before that expires, remove the valve covers, timing cover, and oil pan for access, and make sure there's nothing wrong with the important parts.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Is the shifter easy enough to uncouple underneath? Also, do you know if the damper and flex plate are different to the 3.1? I can't remember from my reading if the exhaust manifolds should be kept in case I don't do the hybrid and just go with the 3.4.

Guest

The shifter is easy. Just use a 13 mm socket on a short extension, for both bolts. Then pop the plastic end off the steel ball bolted to the lever. A straight screwdriver works great.
Later you can use your 700R-4 shifter, lever, et cetera, if you want to adapt the 4L60E into your third gen.
I kept the 3.4 damper and used it, I removed the 3.4 crank pulley. My crank pulley bolted right up. Easy. I used the 3.4 flexplate, but mine is an '86. I kept my '86 700R-4. Bolting up the torque converter was no challenge at all.
Forget the 3.4 exhaust manifolds, reuse the pair you have.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Is anything else needed from the 3.4 donor or does everything else come from the head donor if doing a hybrid? DIS, fpr, ecm etc. etc.

Guest

The 3.4 has a sensor in the front of the block, at the top, behind the timing cover. Leave that there, and save at least 2" of both of the wires from it.
There's another sensor on the passenger side of the block, same deal there. And the crank position sensor, bolted to the front cover. For which you probably need to keep the 3.4 front cover.
I'm not going the hybrid route, I just ported my iron heads to drive while I prep a 5.3L V8 swap for next summer.
Of course you need to keep the coil pack, and the oil pump drive stub, which is in the distributor hole.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

You don't need the 24x crank sensor that is behind the crank pulley, even when doing the hybrid build. The 7x crank sensor located in the passenger side of the block is needed though. Don't cut that harness, it is a seperate harness that runs from the sensor to the coil pack.

Yes, the engines can come out the top, but is much easier out the bodttom, you don't have to disassemble a bunch of it to get it out.

Guest

You're insane. Have you tried it both ways? Out the bottom, you have to undo the brakes, steering, and upper control arms, then drop the crossmember. Then you still have to undo the mounts, et cetera.
Figure at least an extra 90 minutes.
All that extra crap has to come off, because you don't need it, and they will charge you more for it.
It's not that difficult to remove the surplus with the block still bolted to the mounts.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Actually on many cars it IS easier to come out the bottom. I would never attempt a 4th gen F-body through the top, unless I absolutely had no way of raising the car off the cradle. I would rather undo the tranny crossmember, the cradle, exhaust (or cut it under where it's accessible), brake lines, upper strut mounts, and steering shaft than screw around with removing parts, in the tight confines of the engine bay. Disconnecting all of those items doesn't take long, and then with the cradle sitting on the ground, you have full access to remove anything you don't need/want, and get to the bellhousing bolts with ease.

I know it's not a 4th gen F-body, but I recently changed the engine in a Plymouth breeze out the bottom in a few hours, where as out the top would have taken me all day, just to remove it. There was more hood opening on the Breeze than there is on the 4th gen F-body.

Also some auto recyclers don't charge extra for the engine related accessories.

AM91Camaro_RS

I pulled my 3.4 out from the top in the junkyard. had it standing up almost straight to come out but, it worked. I also pulled my buddy's lt1 out from the top. That was a pain. but, it came out the top.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

I've got the engine/trans ready to pull out. Must I use the 3.4 flex plate? They want more if I take it. My 3.1 is a '91 if it makes any difference. Same question about the damper. Still haven't decided if I want to take on the 4l60E yet. I thought the 3.1 injectors would work with the 3.4 too?

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

The 3.1 flex plate will work with the 3.4, same goes for your damper, are they really going to charge more for the damper? That seems to be a bit of a dick move, nickle and diming over things like that.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

The first person I talked to said the long block (totally bare) would be $150. But when I went in yesterday I was told things like the flex plate and damper would be extra. Plus a core charge and environmental cleanup fee and... and... and... so now it's a bit over $200.

Guest

I see that a lot. Too much.
Any complete V8 with 3 accessories is exactly $200, out the gate, at my favorite yard. So I now have 5 extra starters, 7 extra alternators, and so on.
If I'm paying for it, I'm definitely not leaving it for them to sell to someone else. Otherwise, they make another $30 off something I already bought but don't really need at the time.
Technically, a flexplate isn't part of a long block assembly. Nor is a damper. So I can see their side.
But losing customers over $5, or even $50, plus the negative word-of-mouth from that cheated ex-customer...Now they've lost a half dozen customers. Had those 6 guys been customers for life, would the yard in question end up money ahead? Yes! Once you cheat every car guy within 100 miles, you're out of business. Was it worth it? I extremely doubt that.