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I looked over the flex plate, converter, starter very well. No problems there i can see and i got a very good look at the plate. All the bolts are there exc, no visible cracks.
I go out and take off the ICM harness so there is no spark or fuel and try it. It makes no knocking... so im like yea i found out a symptom. Well i plug it back in and the car starts right up. No knocking. I turned it off a hand full of times and restarted and no knocking. Mabey i am overlooking something hitting the frame i suppose? That knock though the other day was just horrid sounding..
That to me sounded like it was still there, just not as harsh.
I recently went through what you are going through, trying to track down a sound on start.
Unfortunately I never did find the source of the sound. I just ended up rebuilding another short block and installing it.
Here's something to try, disconnect the torque converter and push it into the trans, so there is some clearance between the flywheel and the torque converter and try it again. Possibly a trans pump issue if the sound goes away completely when you do that.
have you tried rotating the crank backwards with a ratchet while observing the flexplate to see if, on the remote chance, the crank is broken?
That to me sounded like it was still there, just not as harsh.
I recently went through what you are going through, trying to track down a sound on start.
Unfortunately I never did find the source of the sound. I just ended up rebuilding another short block and installing it.
Here's something to try, disconnect the torque converter and push it into the trans, so there is some clearance between the flywheel and the torque converter and try it again. Possibly a trans pump issue if the sound goes away completely when you do that.
have you tried rotating the crank backwards with a ratchet while observing the flexplate to see if, on the remote chance, the crank is broken?
but with the torque converter pushed back see if it has any movement if the bolts may have just came loose
I wonder if a flexplate off a newer 660 will fit and is more robust.
I'll have to check that out. I won't put a stock one back on that's for sure. I just hate tossing on stock parts that were not ment for 400 plus HP and that I know will break in no time again because I want to keep pushing the limits.... but if a newer 60 degree one is more robust then it's worth looking into.
I'll have to check that out. I won't put a stock one back on that's for sure. I just hate tossing on stock parts that were not ment for 400 plus HP and that I know will break in no time again because I want to keep pushing the limits.... but if a newer 60 degree one is more robust then it's worth looking into.
I know where you can get one with a whole engine attached to it
Newer flex plates will be FWD flex plates, meaning they are smaller in diameter, and will not engage the RWD starter.
You might want to contact some aftermerket companies that make flywheels and and see if they can make one for you. Some companies offer services like that.
Last edited by Six_Shooter; 09-20-2015 at 10:22 PM.
Newer flex plates will be FWD flex plates, meaning they are smaller in diameter, and will not engage the RWD starter.
You might want to contact some aftermerket companies that make flywheels and and see if they can make one for you. Some companies offer services like that.
I still have my modified starter used to engage the fwd flywheel. Sitting in a box collecting dust.
What exactly did you do? Does this use the RWD starter/location and engage with the FWD flywheel/flexplate ring gear?
Yes, the RWD starter cone has been modified to engage the smaller FWD flywheel. I cut the mounting bosses off, took it over to my friends house and he had some 1 inch aluminum round stock that he tig welded on. Then I made up some transfer punches to mark the location for the new bosses. Took the solenoid off and extended the Bendix to align the gears , couple of wraps with a dead blow, put it on the drill press and drilled out the new holes. I'll snap some pics for ya once I dig it out.
Well i dont have time to tear it all down so the racing season is def over. Im interseted in the newer 60 degree flex plates though. As i continue to keep breaking stock parts im trying to replace them with newer better built ones...lol
Well i dont have time to tear it all down so the racing season is def over. Im interseted in the newer 60 degree flex plates though. As i continue to keep breaking stock parts im trying to replace them with newer better built ones...lol
If your off season is starting now, LZ4 that muhfug lol
Since the season is over. And it was a fun one.... Here is the year in review vid. 4th year in a row of these year in review. It may not work on some mobile devices. Enjoy!
whats the word mark , any luck getting a custom flexplate?
honestly i would put a stocker back in it they are so cheap that u could replace it prolly 6 times before it cost the same as a custom piece
its not like they break every few weeks or months were talking like 2 years before u break one
Yea im planning on just buying a new plate and running it. Hopefully it last awhile. A custom one i got quoted from a few places cost from 250-280 bucks thats before shipping...lol. Thats too much compared to a stocker that has definitly lasted though alot and is 25 years old. Ill take my chances and try a new stock one and see how that goes.
Yea im planning on just buying a new plate and running it. Hopefully it last awhile. A custom one i got quoted from a few places cost from 250-280 bucks thats before shipping...lol. Thats too much compared to a stocker that has definitly lasted though alot and is 25 years old. Ill take my chances and try a new stock one and see how that goes.
crazy idea, say you had free access to a good CNC machine, could you machine down a stick flyhweel for the auto? [ make room for TC ]
Trans is out new flex plate is in. Cracked just like Dave said his was.
I have a bottle heater set up with pressure switch and zex purge kit in hand already and at last a window switch so the n20 set up will finally be solid.
Also lca tubular ready to rock. Just need some drs soon.
This is no good news.... trans ran great last time out but i see this in the bottom of the pan.. lots of brass speckles... oh goodie. Thrush washer or tq converter?
Well i got the stuff coming to fix up the trans. The clutch pack are good still thankfully. Damm near new even considering i put 60 passes or so on it this year.
I got one of those lock right lockers tosses at me for 75 bucks. Then i find out that while it was a easy way to keep the 10 bolt going till i can afford a 12 bolt or 9 inch.. since my alburn clutches are toast, the locker is designed for open rear end carriers only. I have a alburn unit. I do still have a spare series 3 open carrier off my original 10 bolt that is in fine shape, but then id have to set up the back lash and depth on it since i would be swapping over gears. I think the locker will work well for me though considering my 60 foots are so dang high, and for the noise or the locker.... i could care less. I just want it to lock at the track and decouple arround corners when im not flooring it.
Of goodie. I get to mess with the trans and the rear end this winter, those 2 are not my favoret thing to work on at all.
Well i got the stuff coming to fix up the trans. The clutch pack are good still thankfully. Damm near new even considering i put 60 passes or so on it this year.
I got one of those lock right lockers tosses at me for 75 bucks. Then i find out that while it was a easy way to keep the 10 bolt going till i can afford a 12 bolt or 9 inch.. since my alburn clutches are toast, the locker is designed for open rear end carriers only. I have a alburn unit. I do still have a spare series 3 open carrier off my original 10 bolt that is in fine shape, but then id have to set up the back lash and depth on it since i would be swapping over gears. I think the locker will work well for me though considering my 60 foots are so dang high, and for the noise or the locker.... i could care less. I just want it to lock at the track and decouple arround corners when im not flooring it.
Of goodie. I get to mess with the trans and the rear end this winter, those 2 are not my favoret thing to work on at all.
when i finish building my 8.8 ill let u know what the cost was , im waiting on some tooling for the lathe so i can machine the hubs to slip the 10 bolt axle tubes into the 8.8 center section
if it wont cost much for materials i coupld prolly machine u up a second set for ya
when i finish building my 8.8 ill let u know what the cost was , im waiting on some tooling for the lathe so i can machine the hubs to slip the 10 bolt axle tubes into the 8.8 center section
if it wont cost much for materials i coupld prolly machine u up a second set for ya
let me know for sure. Id love to toss a 8.8 in it.
I tinkered with the idea myself. But being a bracket sportsman racer, i gotta have that car back up and rolling come april so I didnt want to get behind trying to fab up something.
8.8 is simple , take apart the 8.8 , cut the tubes in the right spot , weld in new reducer tubed/hubs then cut the 10 bolt tubes off int he right place and weld them to the 8.8 then install the f-body axles intot he 8.8
8.8 is simple , take apart the 8.8 , cut the tubes in the right spot , weld in new reducer tubed/hubs then cut the 10 bolt tubes off int he right place and weld them to the 8.8 then install the f-body axles intot he 8.8
Updates, the trans is back in the beast. The rear end is still apart. I got the purger and the heater all hooked up to the n20 system and added a window switch. I like the heater system for it. Its a dyno tune set up. I used my argon from my tig rig to dial in the pressure switch. Its at a solid 975 psi. Which is what I normally aimed for. I'm excited to finally have a purger and heater to make the launches consistent. It probably will pick up a touch as well. I never liked purging though the engine when doing a burn out at all! And when you are running a 50Hp jet sometimes, its hard to purge a 20 foot line though such a tiny tiny hole. But this will make certain we have consistent launches and 100% liquid at the solenoid.
I have the front street legal runners mounted on the new weld rims. They look very nice. I'm just waiting for another month or so to buy the 275/60r15s for the back. Mickey Thompson SS street radials. I've never had drag radials on the car regularly so that should be fun...lol.
I also have a A pillar 3 gauge mount. So I need to finish mounting all of that. I have the boost gauge, trans temp, and coolant temp, all right there. All auto gauge stuff. That should look nice.
I need to toss the rear end back together still with the right lock locker, but that doesn't take long and should go smoothly. Its been way too cold to do any of that stuff lately so hopefully i can accomplish some of those things this weekend.
I am definitely itching to go racing. I just want a solid constant 11.50-11.75 car this year and get up there in the sportsman class point.
I do plan on tearing the engine down next winter as that will be 3 full years on the engine without looking at the pistons, cylinder walls, bearings exc. So as you can imagine I do plan to push the limits of the engine this upcoming fall, providing I don't have any major problems with it over this upcoming season.
Updates, the trans is back in the beast. The rear end is still apart. I got the purger and the heater all hooked up to the n20 system and added a window switch. I like the heater system for it. Its a dyno tune set up. I used my argon from my tig rig to dial in the pressure switch. Its at a solid 975 psi. Which is what I normally aimed for. I'm excited to finally have a purger and heater to make the launches consistent. It probably will pick up a touch as well. I never liked purging though the engine when doing a burn out at all! And when you are running a 50Hp jet sometimes, its hard to purge a 20 foot line though such a tiny tiny hole. But this will make certain we have consistent launches and 100% liquid at the solenoid.
I have the front street legal runners mounted on the new weld rims. They look very nice. I'm just waiting for another month or so to buy the 275/60r15s for the back. Mickey Thompson SS street radials. I've never had drag radials on the car regularly so that should be fun...lol.
I also have a A pillar 3 gauge mount. So I need to finish mounting all of that. I have the boost gauge, trans temp, and coolant temp, all right there. All auto gauge stuff. That should look nice.
I need to toss the rear end back together still with the right lock locker, but that doesn't take long and should go smoothly. Its been way too cold to do any of that stuff lately so hopefully i can accomplish some of those things this weekend.
I am definitely itching to go racing. I just want a solid constant 11.50-11.75 car this year and get up there in the sportsman class point.
I do plan on tearing the engine down next winter as that will be 3 full years on the engine without looking at the pistons, cylinder walls, bearings exc. So as you can imagine I do plan to push the limits of the engine this upcoming fall, providing I don't have any major problems with it over this upcoming season.
skip the low end drag radial and buy a set of 275 micky pro's , its a dot radial but is actually a full slick
honestly i would put a hoosier 28x9x15 on it , ur not going to wanna do alot of street driving on the radials anyways , so u will prolly end up packing them to the track , and at that point the slick would be better
I know what the Mickey tompson ET Street Pro Radial are. Alot of friends made the switch to them the past season when they came out. Most of them picked up a solid .010 in there 60 from those things. They are great slicks that is for sure. But im not going that route.
I drove on Drs to the track and back about 5 times now (borrowed from a friend to race in a specific street class, full exhaust, street legal tires..exc) I like driving on them ALOT and if your not dumb and don't do rediculus burn outs then it'll last about 3 years keeping in mind you only drive it about 5k miles in those 3 years. So that's not too bad, about the same life as the slicks i have. My slicks would dry rot before I ever wore them out but then again....the key is you don't need to do big azz burn outs to hook. Just a slight smoke in the mirror then let off the LL and go. Keep in mind i only drive it about 1000 miles a year. Last year was 985 miles...lol basically driving to the track and back minus a few trips for country data logs.
I know one thing. Drs are a HELLOFALOT safer to drive around then some crappy hard compound street tires if you ever plan to to floor the car and beat on it. I use to be able to floor it at 35mph and litterly go sideways and ride it out. Its really dangerous in my mind to be driving a 400+ hp RWD car on the streets with crappy tires (hard compounds let alown my past street tires were only 25 inches tall..lol) I always had to get up to about 50Mph when data logging before i could floor it and still it would slightly go sideways for a brief moment when the turbo made full boost.
The point of the radials is so I don't have to truck the slicks to the track anymore. This will allow me to just go there with the car only i i want to. Although usually i still take half of the garage in my truck...lol
My other choice was the mickey ET Street R. Which are even better then the SS but Im still going with the SS ones. I ran the old style ET Street MTS Drag radials a few times. Man those puppies hook perfect, granted it was with 1.7x 60s but it was nice to just pump them back up to 28psi at the end of the day and drive home.
Pics of the newer SS and then the R version below that. The R version is the best of the best for driveable Drs from Mts.
Definitely will be nice not hauling those big 28x10s in the truck anymore and when they are on heavy cheep steel rims..lol
Yea in some of the years before, i was driving the car a lot more but in the last 2 years i barley crack 1k miles if im lucky. And yea youll be fine with some 255 bfgs out back. You've seen pics of my car with those old 235/60r14s i had for years and years. yea all those pics taken, those rims were just 14 inch cragers. Those things were just dangerous to drive around with. Its fun to be able to do 40mph rolling burnouts but at the same time id rather just hook and go.
I ran those 28x10s for 2 years at the track. Way too much tire for me but they sure looked nice in the wheel wells. I will say those mickey pros.... they are nice man. I have a few friends in the pro class(they both run high 9s) And swear by them and that they actually picked up on their 60ft time. They handle a lot better when you are going 140-150Mph.
well whats the word is the car ready to go yet?
i just dialed in my cold start , ae , and idle in prepartion to take the car to inspection tommorow so i can start dialy driving it again
Its been too freaking cold out lately. Last weekend I got the trans all back in and bolted up, and everything back and connected. It was nice last weekend so thankfully I took advantage of that. I just need to put the rear end back together, then get that puppy off the jack stands.
Im ready for racing to say the least. May 1st is my first points race. Ill be ready im sure!
I didnt make too much progress on the car but I do have that locker in hand finally and just have to set up the rear end. I had to switch my richmond gears over from the old alburn carrier to the open diff carrier to handle the locker.
I also got my nitrous guage finally. So I need to hook up the boost and n20 gauge and ill finally have those things done. I really like the way that a piller guage pod looks. And for 40 bucks i cant complain. It fits perfect. I just need to run the 4an n20 line into it and then run the 1/8th inch vac line to the boost guage and were good to go. Looks pretty cool for a V6 car..lol
Update the rear end is all buttoned up. Got the locker in there. Bad thing is the stock carrier is a series 3. Ok well the alburn lsd rear end that was in the car is a series 2. So the Richmond gears I had will not work with the open rear end series carrier. So I had to toss the old 3.23 stockers back on to make it work for now. You have to run a open carrier for the locker. But I got this locker for dirt cheep. So it'll work as I don't like tossing too much into the 10 bolt while I save up for a 8.8 12 bolt or 9 inch
I don't like the idea of running stock gears again although I made 1.6x 60 foots with them before. I'm going to be selling the 3.73s to fund some new series 3 gears. Not sure though on what gear ratio I want yet. Lower such as 3.55 or 3.23 might be better for the turbo. I ordered my new drag radials today. 275 50 15s. So they are 26 inch tall. The front runners are 25 inch tall so i got the shorter drs to match. I usually ran 28 inch tall slicks in the 2 years prior.
Update the rear end is all buttoned up. Got the locker in there. Bad thing is the stock carrier is a series 3. Ok well the alburn lsd rear end that was in the car is a series 2. So the Richmond gears I had will not work with the open rear end series carrier. So I had to toss the old 3.23 stockers back on to make it work for now. You have to run a open carrier for the locker. But I got this locker for dirt cheep. So it'll work as I don't like tossing too much into the 10 bolt while I save up for a 8.8 12 bolt or 9 inch
I don't like the idea of running stock gears again although I made 1.6x 60 foots with them before. I'm going to be selling the 3.73s to fund some new series 3 gears. Not sure though on what gear ratio I want yet. Lower such as 3.55 or 3.23 might be better for the turbo. I ordered my new drag radials today. 275 50 15s. So they are 26 inch tall. The front runners are 25 inch tall so i got the shorter drs to match. I usually ran 28 inch tall slicks in the 2 years prior.
see how the 3:23's do , i suspect the car will want 3:42's
were did u order ur dr's from and what price , ive been slacking on mine as im still torn between slicks/dr
I got the drs from Mccormick racing. They are out of michigain. They are a local sponcer at milan dragway where I race. Check them out on the net. Free shipping and no tax if you don't live in michigain. $396 for 2 275 50r15s et street s/s drs shipped to the door. That's the cheepest price by far I've seen for a pair of mickey tompsons.
Now this is what a V6 thirdgen should look like, at least the rims. Finally after 13 years of owning the car i finally have the tires and rims ive always wanted. The new drs came today.
Now this is what a V6 thirdgen should look like, at least the rims. Finally after 13 years of owning the car i finally have the tires and rims ive always wanted. The new drs came today.
nice what size wheels in the back 15x8 or did u get 15x10's
now u need some drag springs upfront , the sbc front drag springs work with the v6 specially with the added wieght of the turbo system upfront
can u do me a favor when u put the car on the ground can u take a picture down the side of the car and also looking at the rear wheel/tire
im going to order a set of 15x10's but not sure what bs i want yet
Will do bud. I can tell you it's about perfectly even with the flares of the wheel well. Yea know what I mean? The side of the render panel... But I'll snap a pic so ya know what I'm saying.
09-16-2015, 04:28 PM
but with the torque converter pushed back see if it has any movement if the bolts may have just came loose 
