Fluf97zj

My daughter and I have gotten the 89 2.8l Camaro RS running! We replaced the fuel pump and the injectors with SouthBay 15lb units and it will start and idle after you unplug the MAF sensor.


We have NO interest in a remanufactured MAF but there are some new MAFs that are made by Walker, Airtex/Wells, etc that are cheaper than the AC Delco ones.


We were wondering if anyone has any experience with any of these aftermarket ones? She needs a new catalytic converter and the difference in price could get her both but only if it is worth it.


Also, any recommendations on converters?


Thanks in advance.

DJP87Z28

Look up the Wells SU-130, brand new an d not the hot wire design.

Fluf97zj

Thanks DJP! We'll look into it.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

DO NOT BUY AFTERMARKET UNLESS YOU WANT TO BE REPLACING IT AGAIN IN A YEAR. I burned through 2 aftermarket "new" MAF sensors in as many years because they aren't manufactured properly. The store wouldn't even accept the second one so I bit the bullet and bought an AC/Delco on eBay. P/N 25507557 for your Camaro, but expect to pay $200+.

:edit: And use the Walker direct fit converter. It's about $150 but it will go right in. Just be sure to use new hardware and don't beat up the hanger on the back of it (can't replace the hanger).

Fluf97zj

Thanks Maverick for the guidance! I already pulled the trigger on an aftermarket MAF, so once we get it running smoothly, I will get the AC Delco and keep the other as a spare. We are still trying to get it idling smoothly without the VERY rich exhaust smell (actually a bit overwhelming).


I am glad someone recommended the Walker direct fit converter. That is the one we bought and it was only $95 plus a $50 rebate = $45 on RockAuto! We are also going to replace the oxygen sensor and check the timing while we are in there installing the converter tomorrow.


For giggles, we are going to replace the coolant temp sensor also...don't normally just throw parts at it but hoping for $16 that may help with the crappy idle.


One final question for you if it is ok? Do the cam/lifters seem to go out on these 2.8s after sitting for a while? How would you recommend checking the lifters and see if they are functioning properly? Have an upper ticking on passenger side. Could be exhaust but I don't think so......


Thanks again!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

My 3.1 sat for a while under a plastic bag wide open with only the cam and lifters in the block (refreshed crank bearings, had to yank most of the pistons, which I wasn't originally planning on but had to have the #4 journal polished, left the cam and lifters alone). Currently ~230 PSI compression (3100 small port heads, stock cam, stock pistons, 11.4:1 CR). So I'm guessing it's fine.

And yes, if your CTS is open, the ECM reads the coolant temp as -130*F and will THROW fuel at it so it will run like absolute crap.

The Walker cat is the ONLY one direct fit for the V6... I had to modify (cut off the inlet flare) and buy a $20 adapter for the MagnaFlow V8 cat (to use the 2.5" intermediate pipe I was hoping to use) to attach to my PaceSetter crossover pipe.

Fluf97zj

Well, we replaced the converter and the MAF and CTS. Running so much better, but not perfect yet. The ticking that I was concerned may be lifters appears to actually be an exhaust leak on the passenger side where the y-pipe meets the manifold - can actually hear the flange rattling because it is loose.


Now for the not perfect part. The car starts right away and is strong but right after startup, the idle surges and exhaust still has a very rich smell. The initial low end of the surge does not kill the engine but drops to about 500 rpm. It will surge for the next couple of minutes but seems to correct itself a little bit with each surge (if that makes sense). Once it hits "closed loop" the idle will smooth out completely and the rich smell goes away but the idle is still high about 1400 rpm in park and 1000 rpm in drive.


I have an O2 to put in it but I am struggling with getting the old one out. Do you think that could have anything to do with the "cold" idle problem? I plan to hit it with a timing light this weekend and to replace the rubber PCV grommets. I am going to also go through all of the vacuum lines and see if there are any that could be the culprit of a vacuum leak.


Any other ideas Maverick? Could the air intake sensor have an influence on the ECM like the CTS? BTW, the Walker converter went on great and not more dreaded rattle!

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

High idle is a vacuum leak... You're about 500 RPM high. After checking/repairing the vacuum lines, remove the IAC, clean it, put it back, and either pull the negative battery cable or remove the fuse on the pass side frame rail with the red and orange wires in it (the black wire one is for the MAF and won't help you) and reconnect after a minute or so to reset the ECM.

Also check the rubber ends of the idle air bypass pipe, the black pipe coming off of the TB near the IAC. They tend to crack as they age. Only fix is hose. Also make sure the pipe isn't coming apart at the T by the PCV valve.

Fluf97zj

Thanks again Maverick. We will tackle this tomorrow.

Jonny45

I got rid of mine my egr and smog pump....i get low to mid 20's in the city and 30+ on the highway

Fluf97zj

Maverick, we were able to get the car running pretty well and has done good all summer until last week. Symptoms are that the car starts fine and drives normally. However, after reaching operating temperature, the engine progressively loses 75% of its power and becomes gutless and after a while of driving this way, it will die. let it sit for 15 minutes, and it will restart.

I have researched and think it is one of two things. ICM or the FPR. My question is this, isn't the ICM a go -no go situation or do they have the propensity to breakdown as they get hot and age?

As for the FPR, we will pull the vacuum line and smell for gas. Is that the only test for the FPR? I am sure it is the original one as the car is a hand-me-down from my sister to my daughter.

As always, Thanks.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

ICM failure modes are both go-no go and progressive. Depends on the individual module. I've seen both run then shut off then no run and run fine until hot and then run like crap under acceleration with heavy bucking until no run. Does the tach bounce at all? If so, the ICM is going the way of the unicorn.

FPR test is pretty much standard. Only way to tell if it's bad is to look for the fuel that will invariably shoot out of it when the system is under pressure. Or, if it's failed stuck closed, with a fuel pressure test, where the pressure will be in excess of 60 PSI (may not be a stuck FPR but clogged return side of system but I have seen FPRs fail in this manner).