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- Removed A/C Box
- Removed Strut Mounts
- Found out my struts are blown out... bad
- Ordered new Monroe OESpectrum shocks
- Ordered r42ts plugs
- Ordered MSD 8.5mm wires
- Ordered 700r4 filter kit
- Ordered AC Delco oil filter
I received 30% off everything through advanced auto using a promo code, plus I got free shipping. My wallet hates me, but all that I should have left to buy is some oil, coolant, and power steering fluid.
Got the engine bay painted! Slowly but surely coming together. I need to set the timing on the engine then it should be good to go in on Saturday. After that it should be smooth sailing... hopefully. Parts also came in!
Well the engine bay turned out like crap. Re-doing it tomorrow, I think it is because the garage was so cold. Engine should be going in saturday morning!
Ahh, much better. Engine is going in tomorrow. Also need to clean up marks old trans and install my new filter.
Just wanted to thank Mark (fasteddi) for all of his help. I honestly can't thank him enough. From answering all my stupid questions to helping me with used parts he has done it all. Thank you Mark!
Ahh, much better. Engine is going in tomorrow. Also need to clean up marks old trans and install my new filter.
Just wanted to thank Mark (fasteddi) for all of his help. I honestly can't thank him enough. From answering all my stupid questions to helping me with used parts he has done it all. Thank you Mark!
No problem bud. I'm glad to help anyway I can and I'd rather give all my spare parts away to someone who will use them rather then them collecting dust. I know your build will come together perfect. I'm exited to see it when it's all done.
Also not sure if you already did it, but delete that EGR valve. Its a boost leak waiting to happen.I had a major issue with mine leaking when I first turboed my car and kept all the emissions stuff. Not too hard to make a delete plate then tune it out on the ecm.
Yep I'm pretty sure I took care of that. I cut the flange off the end of the egr tube and welded it shut. I then put rtv on the inside of the welds just in case there was any tiny holes.
Just mounted up Mark's old 700r4 and the 2800 stall. Got the bottom two bolts in then came inside to get some homework done. After the bellhousing bolts are in I need to install the cross member. The list is as follows:
- Install new struts
- Install strut mounts
- Install wiper motor
- Install radiator
- Cruise control
- Fuel lines, power steering lines, vacuum lines, throttle cable, tv cable, cruise control cable
That should get me set up until my flanges are done. I dropped off the project two weeks ago to the cnc shop at my college, still no progress. Hopefully they will be done Thursday so I can start welding the hotside up. Getting impatient!
On the subject of re-installing stuff, do I need to re-install the vacuum canister? What about the engine coolant overflow tank? Probably seem like dumb questions, but please remember this is my first "real" project. Thanks!
Yep I'm pretty sure I took care of that. I cut the flange off the end of the egr tube and welded it shut. I then put rtv on the inside of the welds just in case there was any tiny holes.
Just mounted up Mark's old 700r4 and the 2800 stall. Got the bottom two bolts in then came inside to get some homework done. After the bellhousing bolts are in I need to install the cross member. The list is as follows:
- Install new struts
- Install strut mounts
- Install wiper motor
- Install radiator
- Cruise control
- Fuel lines, power steering lines, vacuum lines, throttle cable, tv cable, cruise control cable
That should get me set up until my flanges are done. I dropped off the project two weeks ago to the cnc shop at my college, still no progress. Hopefully they will be done Thursday so I can start welding the hotside up. Getting impatient!
On the subject of re-installing stuff, do I need to re-install the vacuum canister? What about the engine coolant overflow tank? Probably seem like dumb questions, but please remember this is my first "real" project. Thanks!
Defintitly reinstall the overflow for the coolent. If you find its in the way of where you want to put the turbo you can always buy a universal overflow off ebay for pretty cheep and then put it where you want.
As for the vac canister. I deleted mine a long time ago. I just plugged the lines going to it iirc. And then also tuned it out of the ecm. You can keep it if you want though. I'm just not sure how it will react to being in boost all the time. Others may chime in with a better answer.
My girlfriend came over yesterday and we buttoned up the trans instead. Also got the car back on the ground. Ready to put the new struts in tomorrow and start tearing down the top end again.
My girlfriend came over yesterday and we buttoned up the trans instead. Also got the car back on the ground. Ready to put the new struts in tomorrow and start tearing down the top end again.
Might want to keep her around...lol. My wife, back when we were dating first started helping me with my car. She has helped me put my trans into the car a few times on a gravel floor... yea no fun but she did it. She layed down there on that messed up gravel ground with me many many times. Girls like that are keepers for sure. And without mine at the race track with me, i probably wouldn't be as calm as i am when the damm thing breaks or im a idiot and clearly loose the race..lol
I got my drag radials coming. You are more then welcome to borrow them if you come to the track with me a few times this year. Doesnt take much to swap out tires/rims with a fast jack and cordless impact. Trust me, even with a low 14 second car, your car will spin the tires at the line with street tires.... But then again you do have some wide ones on it, so it may come down to track conditions.
Ahaha I plan on keeping her around. On the 23rd we will be dating for a year and a half! Borrowing those drag radials would be awesome mark, thank you for the offer. I will probably take you up on it when I come out milan. Lets hope for something faster than a 14 though!
You'll get 13s with that gt35. I ran 13.31 as a best with my tiny 54mm POS undersized 118 dollar special. I went 12.88 with the gt35. Stock trans, stock rear end, stock block, pistons, rings, valve springs....exc. The only things I had done that you wont is the alky injection and ported/polished heads. And trust me it didnt help as much as some may believe. I bet with the stock heads youll be easily into the mid 13s on moderate boost as your engine sits. Moderate boost to me is 12-15psi of boost.
Im excited to help you get your car tuned. It will be a flashback for me and fun to help. I just got my rear end put together and the trans all back in and ready to rock. I just have to do a little bit of bolting up a thing here and there and shes ready to be back on the road. Trust me im just as excited as you to get these camaros back on the street.
I hope my car turns out half as good as yours mark, only time will tell I guess. I can't wait to start tuning the car, you will have to come down here soon for the first start up! Hoping sometime in April it will be done, because I'm itching to drive it!
Well the V6 forum has been hooping today! Here is my little update.
Still pissed I forgot the stud in the head, but it is a blessing in disguise. Totally set my valve lash wrong and probably would have caused major damage. On an end note, my friend at the cnc department fell through on the flanges, so my dad and I are going to make some.
Going to mess around when I get home. Need to take some measurements do figure out how far to extend the 1.5 inch pipe from the flange. Also need to start thinking about plumbing. I'm sure there are crafty was to do this, but how should I connect the 2.5 inch pipe to the gt35 flange?
Well, here we go. My dad accidentally built the passenger side log with the driver side pattern. Problem? Using 2.5 inch pipe on the passenger side and 2 inch on the drivers. Probably going to follow pretty close to pillsbury's setup minus the mid length header.
Well, here we go. My dad accidentally built the passenger side log with the driver side pattern. Problem? Using 2.5 inch pipe on the passenger side and 2 inch on the drivers. Probably going to follow pretty close to pillsbury's setup minus the mid length header.
if u need help with the setup or better pictures let me know m im the one who designed and built those, the full mid lenght is easy enough to build , but logs on both sides will work just fine
if i were u i would use 2 inch or 2.25 max for the logs.main tubes and crossover pipe this will make it spool up faster , specially on ur stock engine , we use 2.5 on 350-400ci motors
also if ur interested im pulling a 3400 out of an alero this week for a friend of mine he wasnt sure what to do with the motor but hed prolly sell it if we dont put it in his nissian pickup
Thanks for the offer on the engine, but Utah is quite far away! and yeah, I'm going to use 2 or 2.25 for the drivers side log and the cross over then feed it up into the 2.5 inch log on the passenger side to the turbo. I think it should work fine, I'm just itching to get it all together.
Thanks for the offer on the engine, but Utah is quite far away! and yeah, I'm going to use 2 or 2.25 for the drivers side log and the cross over then feed it up into the 2.5 inch log on the passenger side to the turbo. I think it should work fine, I'm just itching to get it all together.
is the passenger side already welded up ? if not swap the 2.5 out for 2.0 , if its already wleded just leave it
Yep already welded up. I will make it work! Should have a lot of updates this week.
Yea you'll be fine with 2.5 on the pass side but make sure to make the drivers side 2.0 inch. Anything bigger will hurt spool up for sure. I'm glad to see you got it coming along well. Let me know if I need to make a trip up there to help or guide ya along.
My dad is helping me out my making two new log headers tonight at work. He has a Bridgeport that makes it super easy to drill the holes in the pipe. The dilemma is that he went out and bought 2.5 inch for the passenger and 2.25 for the drivers. Thanks dad... lol
Well the crossover will definitely be out of 2 inch pipe to try and help the spool up. I hope the 2.25 pipe wont hurt it to much since it will just be the actually log pipe! Should have some updates soon.
Installing the radiator, fan, and other odds/ends in the car today. Dad had no downtime at work last night so no luck on the the log headers, hopefully he can get them done tonight.
Have to fully weld everything, but they fit now! I decided it would be easier to modify the old Y pipe where it went under the oil pan than to create a completely new one out of 2 inch pipe again. The original Y pipe is already 2 inches so it only makes sense to use it.
As a great point brought up by six_shooter I'm going to go ahead and use the manifold on the passenger side. I honestly forgot I even had it, but it sure makes everything a whole lot easier!
Picked up the welder and ran some halfway decent beads for a beginner. Need to dial in the settings a bit more and re-do the flip side. Ran out of wire...
I need to remove the plastic pieces under the nose of the car and bring the cold side up a bit more. Just mocked everything together. Need to set the valve lash and get the engine back together then it should be easy sailing.
I think I'm just going to cut a hole in the tray. To much piping to run it through the fender when it would be much easier to just cut a hole in the tray. It's coming together though! Downpipe bends should be here this week along with my stud kit and donut for the factory manifold. Also moved the intercooler up by removing the plastic pieces.
cut out the hood latch support bar behind the intercooler , unbolt it from the bottom of the core support and then , cut it off under the secondary support right below the latch , u will see to bolts with a econd support bracket below the latch cut it right under thosse bolts.
this will give u a bunch more room as it looks like the support bar is touching the backside of the intercooler,,, if it is it will eventually wear a hole into the intercooler , if u need pics let me know
also think about cutting out the center of the grill opening it looks really good on theese cars when its done , it gives the intercooler and radiator a ton more airflow as well
Thanks for the advice!! I will look into it when I get home later tonight. I would cut the center of the bumper out, but I already found a z28 grill for $20 so I'm going to go that route. I agree though, looks super mean cut out.
Thanks for the advice!! I will look into it when I get home later tonight. I would cut the center of the bumper out, but I already found a z28 grill for $20 so I'm going to go that route. I agree though, looks super mean cut out.
Z28 grill looks nice too and does well. That's what I have. I'll work on your tune this week and have a nice safe base tune for ya by Friday at the latest.
We are all for the 59 mask right? There is one pin I'll have to look that you have to change its for the tcc iirc. When switching to 59. But you do have the 3 bar map wired in and ready to roll?
Yep, 59 is the plan. I figured there is something I will have to change to accommodate for it, but yes I have the 3 bar map sensor ready to roll. I will wire it in when I install the harness this week.
- Installed Alternator
- Installed torque converter cover
- Installed starter
- Quickly came up with an idea for the cross over
As for the cross over, it looks like it would be very simple to run it in front of the starter. If I give myself a good amount of room, and use the heat wrap, does anyone foresee a problem with it?
- Installed Alternator
- Installed torque converter cover
- Installed starter
- Quickly came up with an idea for the cross over
As for the cross over, it looks like it would be very simple to run it in front of the starter. If I give myself a good amount of room, and use the heat wrap, does anyone foresee a problem with it?
Mine is damm near touching it...lol the down pipe for me though. Its literly 1/2 inch from the starter. 3 years like that later its and its still fine, with no wrap.
02-29-2016, 08:22 PM
