jasonlitka  Mar 31 2006 - 4:42pm   

By Matt Persman aka Matt 91 1LE/91 B4C (fbody3rdgen@hotmail.com)

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Estimated down time: 2- 3 hours for the Average DIY'er.

AS ALWAYS NEVER work under a car that is NOT properly supported via a lift or jackstands! Doing so may result in death or dismemberment or both. I am NOT responsible for any errors on your part. This is merely one mans experience!

With the car supported and wheel off

Front:

1. Jack the front of the car up and support it with jack stands under the body.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Unbolt the brake line from the strut. You may want to unbolt the bracket that holds the brake line up in the wheel well for more brake line slack.
4. Unbolt the strut where it meets the spindle (2 bolts), have a jack under the control arm and SLOWLY let it down, For extra safety you can use a spring compressor (about $10-20 or rentable) or put some type of pipe up through the bottom side of the control arm and into the spring.
5. When the control arm is down just pull the old spring out. If you are installing lowering springs they are shorter so they are easier to put in. If replacing with say Z28,WS6 or 1LE springs it is a little more difficult, but all the same still easy!
6. Installation: Reverse of removal (for all you Haynes manual folks out there)

*One tip/trick to keeping the rubber pads on the springs is to use tape to hold them.

Rear:

1. Unbolt the shocks on the bottom and unbolt the swaybar.
2. Then drop the rear end down.
3. The springs come out very easily and the new springs install quite easy as well.

This is a lot easier than it sounds! No kidding! If installing lowering springs, I recommend getting an alignment right away. Have fun, and enjoy the much better handling!