Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Just Joined

Johnson505 — Tue, 09 Jun 2026 09:23:51 GMT

Hi Everyone, I'm new here and I've got a camaro in the garage. Its been in the garage for a long time. It was my grandmas car that she used to daily drive. Grandma likes her cars. I've never gotten around to fixing it since I have other vehicles (2006 gmc sierra 1500 2wd & 93 Jeep YJ) but i have the time, cash, and im clearing the garage.
It is a 1987 Camaro RS automatic, idk the rest. Where do I find the vin or engine and transmission Identification? It's been garage kept and the one thing i know is that the transmission has been rebuilded before but its toast. Since it's all stock should I keep it stock? It' won't be a daily driver but something i want to make it come back to life for road trips. I don't plan on selling it or anything but a cool car to cruise the states one day. P.S. what is post a poll?

Battery Relocation on 82 Z28

DDiaz — Mon, 08 Jun 2026 20:29:50 GMT

I am restoring and upgrading my 82 z28. I am trying to relocate the battery to the trunk where the spare tire was. I plan to run the cable underneath the carpet and through the passenger side, or at least that was the plan. I am having a hard time trying to figure out where to make a hole or a clean pass through for the wire. I have removed my interior , only thing that's in the car is the dashboard. I'm using 1/0 welding wire, and my engine is still in the car ( 305 cross fire) , It's a tight squeeze in there. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I should drill a hole or an alternative ?

3rd. gen fans

Dyno Don — Mon, 08 Jun 2026 19:09:33 GMT

I have two sets of '87-'92 cooling fans for sale.
$25 each. 1 '86 fan
1 AC condenser
2 factory shift cables

Dwell meter for recently rebuilt carb

87transamMN — Mon, 08 Jun 2026 18:52:43 GMT

Have a pic here hoping that the dwell meter will work for my car. I've kinda cobbled this thing together, I'm pretty sure the e4me I had rebuilt and setup by mountain man is off a early 80s truck, it's missing the k port I believe to the charcoal canister purge so I hooked that vacuum to another port. Have a vacuum gauge for in the cab coming. Haven't set the tps yet, have my heated O2 wired and powered. Seems to run pretty well at idle but am excited to tinker some more! Any advice or criticism is welcome haha. I love this car and it's getting close to the finish line.

Battery Relocation on a 82 Z28

DDiaz — Mon, 08 Jun 2026 17:53:52 GMT

Front Suspension 1989 Firebird V6 5 Speed

KMA 367 — Mon, 08 Jun 2026 15:52:07 GMT

Like the Title say's i have a 1989 Firebird V6 5 Speed.
I need to change out the entire front suspension since everything is shot. After 2 years i am finally getting to it
So i need new bushings and ball joints. I already posted my questions about that in the S-10 control arm thread.

Also i need front springs and struts. There are several brands available. Is there any brand that has a better quality than the Moog Springs? Lately there seems some quality issues with moog parts. I am a certfied tech but my knowledge is from 20 years ago. I was looking at the Moog 5600 springs. Are those the correct ones? Is there anything better than those?

I am not looking to lower the car and i am sticking with the 15 inch wheels. Since i am buying all new parts- is there any improvements or upgrades that make sense? A wonder bar and later subframe connectors will be added.I live in Berlin Germany and roads are not really great- we have cobblestone roads and big potholes in the asphalt streets. At least where i live.

I also looked at the different struts. I would like something better than original with better dampening. I used to put Bilstein B6 in most of the cars i had. To me the greatest shocks for a road car ever but.they are not available for the front. The Konis yellow are way to expensive for my budget.
Does anyone has the KYB- AGX in there car? Are they any good?
I never had any luck with the KYB Gr2's as they are mostly very soft or am i mistaking?

Should i get slightly larger sway bars for better cornering?

Questions over questions. Can anyone answer them?

Thanks a million, Gina

1988 Firebird T/A

414Motorhead — Mon, 08 Jun 2026 15:19:56 GMT

Hi guys.
I have a 1988 Firebird for sale. It has 5.0 engine, 165K miles on it. I know this is my first post, I can pm my cell number to anyone interested in the car. Car is located in Milwaukee county. It has been sitting in my garage for 2 years. I replaced the batterry and it fired right up.
Asking $3000 obo. Would be willing to trade for a sportster or enfield motorcycle.
Thanks, Joe

1986 Trans Am TPI Intake Duct

Valdfur — Mon, 08 Jun 2026 03:17:16 GMT

Hi all! I just purchased a 1986 Firebird Trans Am with the LB9 305 TPI engine. It's a bit of a restoration project and I noticed it's missing the intake duct between the throttle body and the secondary air box. Any ideas on what I can use as a substitute or where I can find one in Canada? Thanks!!

How do I make KS work on Saujp on a 1227730 Conversion

Whetstone — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 23:30:12 GMT

I'm finishing someone else's project for his widow. I met this 1986 with its engine and transmission on the stand and its brakes and suspension new in boxes. Its a 1986 IROC Z Z28. Dave built a 383 with aluminum heads, Procharger with intercooler, and a Holley throttle body. Now I've solved 90 percent of the issues and learned a lot, but what remains is pushing my comfort zone. I have been doing my best to catch up on OBD1 tuning and figuring out the Tuner pro software. I have been using the search function and reading a lot, but This forum and GearHeadEFI.com have overwhelming amounts of information and I have Gen Z attention span and I'm new to EFI in general. My training was with carburetors and mechanical distributors. So I understand the fundamentals, but I'm struggling with the nuances.

First question is about getting the knock sensor to read correctly.

It has an ECU swap to 730 and I don't know how to make the knock sensor work properly. I read a forum post either here or on GearHeadEFI.com that said the 730 doesn't need the ESC, I think it said 2 of the pins need to be connected together, but now and I can't find it and I haven't gotten it to work jumping the terminals at the ESC. Does anyone remember this arcane wisdom or know where that post is located?

I'm Using SAUJP v7 r2 Turbo. Its telling my that .XDF and .ADX files are unsupported but I fount them here, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ion-7-now.html
Currently it runs but poorly and has Error codes 41, 42, and 43A and is pulling timing because of knock.

Feel free to ask clarifying questions if I've explained myself poorly.

Attached Files

S_AUJPN_T v7-43.BIN (32.0 KB)

first time trying to accelerate went poorly.xdl (27.9 KB)

1985 Trans Am Isolation Relay Pigtail

Dudes85Firebird — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 22:42:12 GMT

Hey guys! This is my first time posting on the forums. I have a 1985 Trans Am that I bought and I�m rebuilding. Body was clean, but quite a lot of electrical problems, and some mechanical. So I�ve ran into an issue, the previous owner cut out the pigtail for the isolation relay out. from what I�ve read, the pigtails are the same as the two headlight relays. But I cannot find anywhere to purchase just the pigtails, and I don�t need to purchase an entire headlight harness. If anyone body knows where I could get one that would be very helpful. I�ll also add a picture of the pigtails

1987 rear main seal replacement

kenktk — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 22:09:10 GMT

I'm in the process of getting my '87 TA back to being a reliable daily driver. I bought it new (my 1st new car) but over the years it sat idle far too long. I've fixed a LOT of the common issues associated with this vintage car and it now runs, drives, and looks great. I have a small oil leak from the rear main seal. I'm in the process of removing the transmission and ordering parts fromAmazon (tail shaft plug and seal and crank main seal) but Amazon is telling me that I need a 2 piece seal. I'm pretty sure the 87 tbi has a one piece seal. Can I get some help on this please?

Missouri 1986 Trans Am for sale

ZZ4-86TA — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 19:28:21 GMT

1986 Pontiac Trans Am with T-5 5-speed transmission – original owner

ZZ4 350 installed in 1997 at 185,000 miles. New clutch and transmission gone through at that same time. Current mileage is 254,780 mostly highway 90-mile round trip to work. Last licensed in 2006. Started to restore it but priorities have changed and looking to sell everything to someone who wants a great foundation to a 1986 Trans Am.

$7,500 OBO

� ZZ4 350 – 355 hp and 405 lb-ft of torque

� Ceramic coated SLP stainless-steel headers (1-3/4” primary tubes). These headers have EGR and are emission legal. High flow Random Technologies catalytic converter (no exhaust past cat)

� Welded in subframe connectors by Hotchkis Performance installed during ZZ4 upgrades

� Oversized Griffin aluminum radiator

� E4ME Rochester Quadrajet tuned for the ZZ4 350. Factory dual snorkel air cleaner that was available for 5.0 liter H.O. Electric choke (see ‘cold start’ videos)

� Performance Distributor HEI

� Inline electric fuel pump with regulator and return line back to the fuel tank

� Have the owner's manual, service manual, and Haynes manual

� New factory GM NOS parts – Front nose, parking lights, hood vents, front spoiler, radiator support, (4) wheel center caps, (20) lug nut caps, hood weather strip, new wiper arms

� New aftermarket items – All new brake lines and fuel lines from Classic Tube. Adjustable tubular panhard bar by UMI Performance

� New heavy-duty grease-able door hinge pins/bushings installed correcting sagging doors

The video clip with the engine running: First is cold start showing choke bringing rpm up (not touching the gas pedal), then blip the throttle after 30 seconds brings the rpm down. Final video shows a warm idle.

Let me know if you have any questions. Not interested in selling individual parts. Price takes everything.

Fuel Pump for 88 Trans Am GTA

Lenny — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 11:27:23 GMT

Hi everyone,
I finally started working on our 1988 GTA. it doesn't run after sitting for almost 15 years. After some trial and error, we found out that the fuel pump was broken and doesn't make any noise when the key is turned to ignition. The pump gets a signal, so the wires, relay and VATS are fine. Now i'm looking for a replacement, best would be the whole unit. The tank, filter outside the tank and maybe injectors will also be replaced, but we found someone who sells new ones. Parts are a little hard to get, since we are in Germany. We could get our hands on a stock pump, but i'm not sure if it fits. After some research, i found that the fuel pump for the GTA is special. It has lower pressure than the stock one. Is that right? Does someone know a guy who sells that special pump, if we need one?

Emergency brake question

Thirdgenstudent — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 05:05:19 GMT

I was adding new calipers and rotors on my IROC with rear disc brakes and noticed that the drivers side Ebrake cable doesn�t move/retract when I apply my Ebrake. The passenger side does. I�m not familiar with the system and being that it�s an automatic I�ve never used the Ebrake. Ive read in the past that the lines rust and if they do and u apply the brake they can freeze your caliper? My question is could it be that it�s just the drivers side cable that�s bad and I can just replace that and it will work? How hard is it to replace? I have a spare rear axle with that cable attached. If I pull on it and it extracts can I just swap it out? Thanks in advance. Again I�m not familiar with the whole set up

HELP! Alignment Issues after Crash

Camaro_383 — Sun, 07 Jun 2026 04:40:40 GMT

I�m in the process of rebuilding my 92 RS after crashing it 10 years ago. I

swung around in the rain and hit a curb. It broke off the rear right axle and hit the front wheel on the same side. I�ve replaced all of the damaged parts in the rear and now I�ve moved on to the front. I replaced the tie rods and center link, although they weren�t necessarily bent, but I can�t seem to figure out why my steering wheel is so far off-center. When the steering wheel is centered with the gearbox, both wheels are pointed a good amount to the left and if the wheels are straight, the steering wheel and a half a rotation to the right. Before making this post, I adjusted the p/s strut mount a bit and I removed the a-arm hoping the bushings were destroyed and they weren�t. I also don�t see any clear indications, like dirt lines, that the k-member shifted. What else could it be? Could it be something further up like in the gearbox or steering shaft? I don�t want to keep buying random parts if they�re not needed because those will start adding up. I thought about the k-member shifting to the left or the frame being tweaked, but based on how the tie rods are setup, if everything got shifted back to the right, that would push my wheels more to the left. ANY help that you guys can give me at this point would be helpful