chevypower

This guy gave me a LT1 cam, all I had to pay was $15 for shipping from Michagan to Florida. I've see a lot of people on here with the LT1 cam in there LO3 and was wondering what problems to except. I know that I will have to grind off some of the tit on the end of the cam, but what else? Will I be able to use my lifters? What about my springs? I plan on letting TBIChips.com burn a custom chip for me. I don't want to have to spend a lot on this swap cause I'm building a 388ci motor for the car right now, but since all I had to pay was shipping I thought what the he|| why not see what I can get out of the LO3. Thanks, Bobby

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

You will be happy with your LT1 cam swap. I just completed mine but I have yet to fire up the car. This was my first cam swap so maybe I can give some pointers.

Have all of the gaskets and stuff that you need ahead of time.
Rent the harmonic balancer puller and install kits from autozone.

Expect coolant to go everywhere, have kitty litter handy.
You will need a lot of muscle and patience to get all of the old gasket material off. I used a wire bristle brush on my dremel with some PB blaster.

You may need to grind the inside lip of the timing cover off to get it back on. A search on this will help you out. You can do this withough any leaks. If you drop the oil pan a bit you won't need to do this. Mine went on and off without touching the pan.

There is a sinlge bolt that holds your AC hard lies down on the inside fraim rail on the passenger side. Removal of this will allow you to swivel your AC condensor out of the way so that you do not have to release your freon and hurt yourself or the environment.

Unless you have practically zero miles on your car you should replace the timing chain and valve springs. I did not but my 305 is a gunea pig for me to learn how to do this stuff while it sits as I repair her from my wreck. I also only have only touch over 30,000 miles on it and I am using a Imapalla LT1 cam which is a bit smaller than the f-body one. So another reason to reuse the stock stuff.

You will have to grind the dowel pin on the cam down a bit but that takes like 2 seconds.

I also purchased a crankshaft turning tool that allows you to rotate the motor to keep it at TDC and to set the valves when the motor is cold. A chiltons maual is helpfull here for valve setting.

You will have to shcok the bolts loose on the harmonic balancer pully. I had to do this to keep the engine from turning over. I also had to do this when I was pulling the balancer for the same reason. It eventually came off.

I did this swap by myself and only had help from board member Hot86z-28 for a few little things.

RTV is your friend for the china walls on your block (intake install) and timing chain cover (especially the lower part and where it meets the oil pan).

I didn't use any instructions and solved any questions I had with a quick search in the general engine and tech section on this site. Just keep all of your bolts organized so that it goes back together smoothly.

I hope I helped and feel free to ask if you have more questions.

Z28GEN3

heres what i learned i just got done with the swap and heads rebuild and am now reassmebling the bugger, like SHIFTY said label or organize your bolts, I used the chiltons manuel and numbered a cardboard box and stuck the bolts in it in the order they came out, do this for everything cause i didnt and it was 3 months later when i got to put it back together and i forgot where most of them went. or I hear this alot dont reuse the head bolts cause they stretch but you say your building a Rat on the side so skip that. on the timing cover to pop it back in place i used a Industrial Oil ring packing install tool (cant buy these from anyone except grainer) it made it simple, basically its a 3/8 rod with about a 30degree curve(and a 90degree flat hook) it helped to push the onepiece seal into place. do get the installer for the harmonic i was lazy and used the bolt and lots of oil and washers.

chevypower

Does anyone know the LO3 & LT1 cam spec's? I'm mostly wanting to know about the valve spring rating on each. The LT1 cam is out of a '95 WS6 TA, if it makes any difference.

Like I said above I don't want to spend any more than I have to cause I'm building a 388ci now, all I like having the short block done is the balanicing and then letting the shop put it together. Then I'm going to finsh it at home myself. But I would like to see what I can get out of the LO3 first. It is still a good running motor, with no smoke(it did smoke after idling but no more after a valve seal & O-ring change) or oil burning between changes. It is really running better now than it ever has. I just installed new valve seals & O-rings, rebuilt & modifided the TBI along with one new injector, put a MSD coil on along with Accel wires, a new ignition mogule and AC Rapid Fire pluges. Wish I would've got this LT1 cam when I had the intake, valve covers and rocker arms off. And I've yet to get to drive it, the brakes are giving me fits now and I've got to fix them before I can take the car to get the exhaust welded back up from where I had the fuel tank down doing away with the in-tank pump for the Holley Blue Pump. Oh well what the he||. Looks like it will still be a while before I get to drive it again now, maybe its worth it. Anyone know how much power the LT1 cam swap is worth with a custom burnt chip to match?

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Here is a link to some LT1 cam data. You can see the 94 and 95 LT1 cams are pretty nice and have great specs for tunability in a 305. A LT1 cam with new springs and what not plus a fully tuned chip (pending you have enough fuel and exhaust mods) can be worth 25-40hp. Not quite sure on the power increase but you will be able to tell right away. No more shifting at 4200 rpm, you will cruise right on up to 5500 with ease and feel a nice lil' pull out of your 305.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

forgot the link

http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/CamData.htm

chevypower

I said above that the cam came out of a '95 WS6 TA. I was WRONG, it didn't. It came out of a '94 Z28.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

That is okay, the 94 and 95 cams were pretty much identical.

TonyC

iTrader: (1)

grind off dowel pin? huh . Screw it, I'm not taking the thing apart ever again

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

You'll go bigger...Everyone always does

But about the pin if you don't cut it down it will hit the back of your timing chain cover. Took me like 3 seconds to remedy the problem. Gotta love the dremel.

BadBlue91RS

LT1 cam is like .450/.460
L03 cam is like .350/.380

HUGE difference, and that makes for good gains on our lil old 305's

chevypower

BadBlue91RS,
Thats lift, What about duration and lobe sepration? What do you have in your car, mod wise?

ShiftyCapone,
Have you got your car to run yet? If so let me know how much difference it makes. Oh, I think I remember you saying that its wrecked and your moding it while it gets fixed, right?

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Yup you are absolutely correct. I am learning how to do a cam swap while the car sits and waits for funds. I have yet to start her and burn a new chip but that may be happening by the end of the month. I only have to reconnect the battery, fire her up, set initial timing and fule pressure and then the burning process begins. I had to leave back for school and I ran out of time over x mass break to get her done. But all fo the hard stuff is out of the way and I can enjoy her now burst of power.

chevypower

ShiftyCapone,
Yea I called http://www.tbichips.com and told them all my mods on the 305 with the LT1 cam and they said for $44 theyed give me a chip to get started with and then we could datalog with Winaldl from there if needed. He thinks that the first chip will be real close if not on the money, he said he does chips for cars with similar mods real often. So I guess thats who I'll let burn my chip, I guess, he|| can't beat the price,for $44 huh?

I plan on tring to start burning my own chips before long. Just can't get around to getting the stuff. You burn your own? If so how hard is it and how much money does it take to start out?

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

I geuss $44 is a good base to get the car running but you will truly benifit from burning your own. Being a novice tuner it is easy to have poor drivability if your tuning skills are sub par while you learn. Having a good start is closer to dialing in your set-up. Check out the DIY prom board and you will find you can buy all the stuff you need for under 300. I am going to tune with a buddy of mine who tunes his car (chuck! is his board name). I have seen him tune his car and it takes just minutes literally. Once you learn all the little things and know what to look for on your data logs, you are all set. A wide band O2 dyno with your custom tune will get you the best prom for your set-up. You don't need that but it is the only true way to nail down your set-up. You will probably get toi a point where you don't wish to take your tuning any farther and you just want to drive it after you get it down pretty good.

johnjm22

How much would it cost to have a shop install an LT-1 Cam in my LO3?

I want to do it myself but I'm afraid I'll mess it up. I was gonna try it, but after reading what shifty said, It sounds way more complicated then I thought.

What do you guys think? Would an amatuer mechanic be able to do this swap?

And what would be a good head combo to match my new cam?

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Don't be afraid. It is really straight forward. I just went into a lot of detail to hlep a novice out. There is a bit more than just "pull the water pump and timing cover" but not so much that you need to be 5 star pro. It is really just taking off a bunch of bolts and keeping them organized. I am a novice mechanic and just took things slow. A shop will charge probably 300 to 600 for a cam swap. That is if you can find one that will do it. As for heads. A ported set of 305 TPI heads are popular and cheap to come buy. If you want to spend a little more you can get a set of SR torquer 305's which are a direct bolt on.

chevypower

ShiftyCapone,
Check out this wide band O2 sensor. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com I'm thinking about getting one of these myself. It's only like $300 something, can't remember just look at it. I read about it in this months Car Craft.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

I have yet to buy one but $300 does sound right for what they go with. You can use it off the dyno but it is easier to use the wideband and top out your dyno gear at super high speeds while your head is down in your data logging laptop and wideband readout. Ha I can only imagine me doing that while I give her a fourth gear redline pull in rush hour traffic with all that stuff in my lap and getting ready to hit 5th.

nick harmon

john buddy, all you need are the right tools. you can do any of this stuff if you have the tools required. sometimes, thats the only thing that stops me from doing my own work, lack of tools/proper work area. as far as price, for a shop to do it, the shop i called quoted me 350-400 dollars to do the cam swap. a good friend quoted me 300 flat. so im doing it on my own since my sticker will be dead at the end of the month, and i will be home confinement, ill have plenty of time to round up tools and get the job done.

johnjm22

Is it a waste to just replace the the cam and not the heads?

I don't have the money for the heads right now so I was just gonna do an lt-1 cam swap.

What do you guys think? If I just swap the cam and not the heads will I have any noticable gains?

I have also heard people say their car runs like crap after they do this swap. How hard will it be to tune my vehical and make it a daily driver with this new cam?

90RS305

This thread contains A LOT of useful information! I'm closing this thread and putting a link to it in the "LT1 Cam ALLGOHERE" thread at the top of the TBI board. Anything else and please post it there! Thanks guys!

Bruce (90RS305)