Need some help...doing an LT1 cam swap
02-26-2002, 01:32 AM
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Need some help...doing an LT1 cam swap
First off let me say that I know there has been a question or two asked about this swap on this forum in the easily searchable past, so I will try not to ask repetitive questions . . .
I am about to start on swaping out the stock cam for a LT1 cam out of a 94. I have bought the cam (of course), new springs, valve stem seals, pushrods, true double roller timing chain, crank turing nut, Redline Cam lube, Comp Cam's cam degree kit, etc. The whole works. I have a few questions on installation. One, do you use Cam lube with a roller cam? Two, Do you have to "prime" the engine before you do the cam break-in? And Three, with a used cam do you have to do a cam break-in?
Thanks alot in advance for the help!
I am about to start on swaping out the stock cam for a LT1 cam out of a 94. I have bought the cam (of course), new springs, valve stem seals, pushrods, true double roller timing chain, crank turing nut, Redline Cam lube, Comp Cam's cam degree kit, etc. The whole works. I have a few questions on installation. One, do you use Cam lube with a roller cam? Two, Do you have to "prime" the engine before you do the cam break-in? And Three, with a used cam do you have to do a cam break-in?
Thanks alot in advance for the help!
02-26-2002, 06:45 AM
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You will like the difference with the new cam.
You do use cam lube on each bump on the stick
I poured Synthetic oil on the round bearings, cam lube on the bumps and on the distributer gear.
You do not have to prime the engine, nor do you have to break the cam in because this is a used cam. It is already broken in. Basically, put it together, run it for a few minutes, drain the oil and change the filter to clear out any dirt or gasket material that may have gotten in the cam valley or valve covers, add oil and oil filter (go synthetic) and enjoy.
You do use cam lube on each bump on the stick
I poured Synthetic oil on the round bearings, cam lube on the bumps and on the distributer gear.
You do not have to prime the engine, nor do you have to break the cam in because this is a used cam. It is already broken in. Basically, put it together, run it for a few minutes, drain the oil and change the filter to clear out any dirt or gasket material that may have gotten in the cam valley or valve covers, add oil and oil filter (go synthetic) and enjoy.
02-26-2002, 08:25 AM
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What do you mean cam lube? Are you talking about assembly lube? If not what? I will be swapping an LT1 cam into my L03 this spring, and really dunno what I am getting into yet (learning though!). Also, I thought that the cam/distributer gearing wears together - maybe I would wanna put new distrubter gear? Just one more - A ,ot of timing chains say fer SBC's except fer roller set ups...wtf? Who makes timing sets fer roller set ups?
02-26-2002, 08:33 AM
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Yes assembly lube. I put it on the gear to be on the safe side... It couldn't hurt, and can only help.
The roller motors have a different roller set. The older style will bolt up, but if you try to start the car it will not turn, and snap the chain tearing up everything in that timing chain cover, and the cover itself potentially (I had a friend that did this, sent a piece of chain through it). Just get another one from the dealer, or local auto parts store. Call Jegs or Summit if you are buying a double roller timing set to make sure the application is correct.
Edelbrock sells pre-stretched chains that will not stretch very much more if at all. Just some ideas, but MAKE SURE you have the right timing set. Install it and try to turn the crank (without using the key) if it does not turn, DO NOT start it, get another timing set.
The roller motors have a different roller set. The older style will bolt up, but if you try to start the car it will not turn, and snap the chain tearing up everything in that timing chain cover, and the cover itself potentially (I had a friend that did this, sent a piece of chain through it). Just get another one from the dealer, or local auto parts store. Call Jegs or Summit if you are buying a double roller timing set to make sure the application is correct.
Edelbrock sells pre-stretched chains that will not stretch very much more if at all. Just some ideas, but MAKE SURE you have the right timing set. Install it and try to turn the crank (without using the key) if it does not turn, DO NOT start it, get another timing set.
02-26-2002, 08:39 AM
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OK. On a related topic - Does anyone know of any books that covers (in detail?) a cam swap or instalation? I am pretty new, although my dad will help me a little. But I would like a reference or what ever so I dont ****, I mean screw up to bad!
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02-26-2002, 10:24 PM
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Thanks for the info!! I just hope my ecm likes the new cam! For who ever wanted info on a detailed walk through, this is a great site:
http://www.racer-x.f2s.com/proc.caminst.htm
Also, for those of you who are interested, these are the summit part numbers of my parts:
CCA-4796 Comp Cams Degree Kit -(which might be for sale
after the swap)
CLO-9-3145 True double roller timing chain
KMO-K-700 Springs
RED-80312 Redline Assembly Lube
SUM-G6406 Pushrods
TAV-08620 Crank turning nut
CCA-99819 Valve stem seals
All of the other stuff like gaskets, etc. I got at Auto Zone(I also used their loan a tool program for the puller, valve spring compressor, and oil primer I needed). I wanted to also replace the rockers with aluminum 1.6 roller rockers but ran out of money. This project cost ALOT more than what I had originally thought. I think total I spent approx. $450-$500 bucks on the swap. True I could have gotton out cheaper but while you are that deep in the engine, you might as well replace stuff that has been plugging away for 128,000 mi with high quality stuff.
I noticed that there was no tech article on a cam swap. I think that would be a helpful addition seeing as how 50% of the questions on the board are cam related. If an administrator could e-mail me on how to submit one, I could take detailed notes while I preform the swap next week. Just trying to help some of my fellow F-body brethren out
Just let me know if you're interested.
http://www.racer-x.f2s.com/proc.caminst.htm
Also, for those of you who are interested, these are the summit part numbers of my parts:
CCA-4796 Comp Cams Degree Kit -(which might be for sale
after the swap)
CLO-9-3145 True double roller timing chain
KMO-K-700 Springs
RED-80312 Redline Assembly Lube
SUM-G6406 Pushrods
TAV-08620 Crank turning nut
CCA-99819 Valve stem seals
All of the other stuff like gaskets, etc. I got at Auto Zone(I also used their loan a tool program for the puller, valve spring compressor, and oil primer I needed). I wanted to also replace the rockers with aluminum 1.6 roller rockers but ran out of money. This project cost ALOT more than what I had originally thought. I think total I spent approx. $450-$500 bucks on the swap. True I could have gotton out cheaper but while you are that deep in the engine, you might as well replace stuff that has been plugging away for 128,000 mi with high quality stuff.
I noticed that there was no tech article on a cam swap. I think that would be a helpful addition seeing as how 50% of the questions on the board are cam related. If an administrator could e-mail me on how to submit one, I could take detailed notes while I preform the swap next week. Just trying to help some of my fellow F-body brethren out
Just let me know if you're interested. Last edited by My305camaro; 02-26-2002 at 11:31 PM.
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