Any idea of where to get gauges to replace the in-dash ones?
My speedo is the 85mph on and NEVER worked right. The odometer and stuff were AFU from the day I bought it. The volt guage never worked at all, the gas gauge sits at Full until one day when it drops to 1/2 and then acts normally until Empty, the oil pressure is at like 50psi after the rebuild and pegs that gauge, and now the tach is bouncing and sticking. They all must go!
What size are the big ones and the small ones? I see sizes like 5" or 3 3/8" for the speedo and tach, and 2', 2 1/16", and 2 5/8" for the smaller gauges. I would prefer not to have to make a custom dash, but don't really want to replace my broken ones with stock faced ones either...
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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in... K&N filter... 93 octane...
the problem is the gauge cluster in the car is a printed circuit, putting any type of otther gauges in there is next to impossible without really butchering it.
You can either roll the dice and get another cluster, and hope all the senders are ok. or get one of those Digital ones that plug in.
other thaan that you have to gut it, put some plexiglass up and bore some holes and put the gauges in that way
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It's always SOMETHING
"Sounds like Barry White at idle, Teddy Pendegrass wide open..
if it don't sound like Micheal Bolton your alright"
Originally posted by Pony Killer:
other thaan that you have to gut it, put some plexiglass up and bore some holes and put the gauges in that way
Looks like I will go this route then. So it really doesn't matter what size MY gauges are, I will have to replace them all anyways at the same time... Thanks.
In terms of fitment, aftermarket gauges will go in pretty well. If you pull the black plastic piece off, then the clear plastic, then the black metal trim piece, all of the gauges execpt the speedo will pull right out. That white casing needs to be gutted to make room for the new gauges. To get the speedo out, remove the two lower 10mm nuts holding the white plastic piece in (they're in a crevace near some bulbs) and then reach up behind your fuse panel from underneath, following the black speedo cable from the firewall (it's pretty easy to find). If you reach carefully in there, you can reach all the way to the back of the gauge cluster, and there will be a steel tab that you need to push toward the back of the car, while pulling slightly on the gauge cluster. That tab holds the speedo cable to the back of the gauge. Once that releases, then you need to money f**k the gauges around the steering column to get them out. God help you if you don't have a tilt steering column.
------------------ The IROC Homepage
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View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
I saw a guy with a '85 Z at gandy one night that had replace his with silver faced autometer units it looked sweet too. thirdgenresource has white faced factory gauges for 82-92 f cars.
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87GTA looking for a super ram!!! 355, A4 ran high 12's with old school setup and radials, hoping for low 12's or better /91 TA daily driver LB9 A4 2.73,
Your factory senders, and gauges can be tested and calibrated.
Not always is the flexible circuit bad. You may be able to just clean the contacts with scotch brite pad, or ink erasor (slight abrasive).
Other than that gauges can be tested. Speedometer repair isn't my bag, but I have heard that GMPP offers an IROC 1985-1989 145mph speedo head.
Your oil and fuel work on a 0-90 Ohm scale. Temp is somehwat higher scale. use an Ohm meter to test senders, either under hood, or at the dash connector for the cluster.
The gauges themselves can be tested by applying 12V, and using shorting Ref to GND, using the following resistances 0 (shorted), 45 Ohm, and 90 Ohm.
1987 GTA 350 6spd, White OEM instruments, 17" Borbet Type A's, 275/40ZR17's, 255/45ZR17's, Koni Sport Adjustables, Eichbach Sport Springs, Poly U, everywhere, Guldstrand Engineering Panhard rod, LCA's