Aftermarket Product ReviewProvide questions and answers about aftermarket parts for the Third Generation F-Body.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
We just released a new torque arm. This unit is adjustable like all of our units, but it mounts in the factory location on the transmission into a supplied polyurethane bushing.
That's correct. I bought a chromemoly one. My crossmember ta was about $600 shipped to my door having added several other options also. Price you pay for quality and for a true bolt-on!
Can you setup this TA to have an integral Driveshaft Safety Loop? I've seen several guys who have modified their stock TA's to weld on a DSL. Would be neat if this one could have one bolted to it ... or welded to it. The TA and Driveshaft move together when the TA is mounted to the tranny so it should work AOK ... specially since tons of guys are doing it with their stock TAs.
Tim
__________________ 2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)
However, that loop will not clear a Mufflex y-pipe. We thought about putting a loop on this arm, it could be done, just welded right to the top tube of the arm just like we put on our rear loops.
However, my thinking was this. The limit of this arm is the transmission tailshaft and/or transmission torque arm mount. If either one of those lets go and the arm has a loop on it, it's gonna destroy the driveshaft.
The torque arm won't let go, this thing is indestructable. However, the tranny tailshaft, tranny mount, and or stock TA mount could. The arm doesn't go down all that far under braking, it won't hit the ground. But under acceleration it'll slam into the floor, if there's a loop on it the shaft will be screwed.
If someone is willing to understand/accept that risk, I'll build one with a loop on it. Just call and ask for it.
See, that would be a concern that I would have. I have a six-speed AND longtube headers with the mufflex y-pipe. What kind of loop would you recommend for my setup?
__________________ 1991 Z-28 (Black - Hardtop) 355ci TPI/SLP, Ported Vortec heads, Comp XR276HR-12, Hooker 2210 Longtubes / custom 3" Y-pipe with 3 1/2" mufflex cat-back, Borg Warner T-56, PROM tuned by me!, 3.73's, Hotchkis suspension, custom high-flow lid and ram-air, ALL the bolt-ons, custom Boyd Coddington "1bad91Z" Billet Wheels.
Originally posted by SteveSpohn If someone is willing to understand/accept that risk, I'll build one with a loop on it. Just call and ask for it.
Steve
Awesome. That's exactly what I was looking for. What's the extra cost?
Tim
__________________ 2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)
Originally posted by 1bad91Z See, that would be a concern that I would have. I have a six-speed AND longtube headers with the mufflex y-pipe. What kind of loop would you recommend for my setup?
Your only option is a loop that bolts to the floor pan. I can get you the Lakewood loop designed for the thirdgen that bolts to the floor. I think it's $35.00.
Originally posted by OMINOUS_87 Did the this occur during product testing?
At what level would this occur?
This happens with the stock torque arm. The dyno shop near us has had at least a half dozen snapped tailshafts on the dyno. I would personally run a transmission mounted torque arm on a 12 second car. Once you hit 11's it's time to get it off the transmission. Of course most cars running faster then 12's have a tranny other then stock because of strength issues, so they can't use a tranny mounted arm anyway. The manual cars are the main victims of it, I haven't seen many automatic cars do it.
I'll probably never take advantage of the strength of CrMo tubing on a car running a 700r4 in the 11s, right? What about weight savings though? Just trying to justify the extra $125.