admittedly, I haven't read this entire post.(I'm lazy...) - just wanted to add my personal experiences. - sorry long post. - My dad has drag raced since long before I was born(I'm 23). He loves his solid roller cams. In all his years, he had never broken a roller lifter. He added Lucas, broke a roller lifter. Bought new lifters, added Lucas(didn't think of it as possible problem) broke another roller lifter. Quit using Lucas, no broken roller lifters(knock on wood...maybe) - Another guy he runs helps has always run STP. He switched to Lucas, broke a roller lifter. He puts in new lifters, brakes a crank. Puts in new crank, breaks a roller lifter. Puts in new lifters, switches back to STP, no problem since. (knock on wood...maybe) - Both of these are blower motors. My dad's is a low 5 sec(we run 1/8 mile) steel 68 camaro, 445ci street 871 36% overdrive on methanol. Donny's is a 588ci 4.7x sec outlaw 10.5 tire car.1471 high-helix, 30% over-driven. - A guy that builds motors for aliving said he too broke several roller lifters while trying Lucas products. He also runs a Top Sportsman car. I'm not going to say that Lucas oil stabilizer was the issue, but it's funny that it's been the only variable that changed between breaking parts and not breaking parts...

- wanted to add another car to the list of broken roller-lifters. - My dad's buddy just broke a second pr while running Lucass. - 730 lift roller in a 461(454 +.030) n/a motor...

I bet there the ones buying all that Lucas

A friend of mine got some last week because his lifters were noisey, and this cure is on the bottle. On Sunday the engine blew. It's a 82 or 83 truck with a 350 that had about 170,000 miles. So I don't think its any good for engines on there way out either.

I've been using Lucas for as long as I can remember... since maybe about 5,000 to 55,000 miles on my new 350. I was one of the sheep sold on the stuff... "everyone uses it, it must be good... Lucas is a good name, right?"

I would normally remove lucas in the winter and add it again in the summer time. (Seems logical to me.. that stuff is THICK when its cold)

Now that I see it can cause foaming... I'll stick with the Mobil1 7500mile extended performance alone.

I also do a motor flush/new tough guard filter with every oil change.

I'm just worried that maybe now my motor is 'used' to running with lucas and removing it may cause problems? I also have a ticky lifter which is really worrying me...

I used that 'GUNK..' whatever the hell its call lifter treatment... says on the back of the bottle "if this doesn't clear up ticky lifters within five minutes of driving you need mechanical help." apparently i need mechanical help.

TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK -sighs... then punches the gas anyways-

Got the engine apart and it seems the oil pump failed. Looks like its crate motor time.

i used to work at an oil change place and ive used a few additives in the various beaters ive owned and typical motor oils arent designed for how long they can stand up they are designed to pass ase tests for use in new cars with closer tolerences why you think most new cars run 5w30 or 0w30 is mostly for increased gas milege so do additives help new engines hell no older engines with looser tolerences hell yea it picks up the slack


ive used ungine restore before on my old 300k tercel did wonders for that pos but now they have higher milege engine oils including sythetic high milege that have engine sealers and other crap built in so really unless your car is hurting big time really is no need for lucas or any of that other crap like was stated before you want extra protection just use a thicker oil

heh

Lucas

About the only thing I dont pour into my Saturn as an experiment.

Kind of creepy how it clings to things like the little demonstrator they have.

It gets a quart or two every tank of gas, good things it goes real far on a tank.

If I brake and the oil lite flickers, proceed to add 2 quarts.

Plugs get cleaned about every 8-10k miles or they foul with oil ash from blowby.

Imposed 2500rpm rev limit(unless emergency) due to smoke.

Restore is the most pleasant to use in my experience. Its rather pricey, does real good for masking sounds and smoke. If its going I heartily recommend it :-) tried it on several wounded or failing vehicles, it will help you out.

Slick 50 hahahaha no really hahahaha, run synthetic and be done, price diff between oil change and additive = syntheitic price anyhow.

By the way as smoke prevention the saturn runs 10w40 full time, runing 20w50 actually slows it down :-) (yes im being serious lol)

My current favorite which I add every now and then is No Smoke its really cheap at Wal-Mart. It looks like crap, smells like crap, so im pretty sure it is crap, but it does cut down on smoke production.

Heck, every now and than I change the oil, but its prolly been like 10k now. Why bother wasting the time or money on draining it when it goes thru 1.5-2 qrts every 300-350 miles.

Maybe I will try thay Lucas one day.

lol

later
Jeremy

...a car that changes its own oil....all you have to do is poor it in, it'll do the rest...

if its a standard transmission you use the lucas oil stabilizer not transmission fix transmission fix is for automatics only its red like tranny fluid i use it in my 79 chevy had a severe slam into reverse now its gone and has never come back also had a real hard leak and stopped it to never came back either red on the lucas oil stabilizer bottle says on the bottle for transfer cases that would be like pouring dam tranny fluid in a standard it would burn it up im not trying to be mean or nothing but now you know read b4 u pour it in do not pour transmission fix in a standard just auto u only use the lucas oil stabilizer in standards not the transmission fix plus ive run lucas oil stabilizer in my engine for a long time and have noticed more horsepower and gas mileage sure itll blow your motor up if you put more than the bottle says you just use 1 bottle to 4 quarts of oil of the lucas stabilizer bottom line be careful what u use and how much just imagine if u were starving and you ate and got full ok now imagine you ate more you would get sick same with a motor you put to much it ruins it believe me been there done that right now i got slick 50 in my engine u just do it 1 time and 1 time only unless you want metal to metal just run it 1 time then never again untill your engine needs to be cleaned again what it does it makes every gear in the motor glide across each other anyways im not trying to be an ******* everyone i just wanted to share some info and im not trying to boss anyone and im not mouthing or trying to get someone pissed at me so please dont have hard feeling i mean nothing by it just telling you and my engine is a 350 4 bolt main 450 horsepower

ok first thing ATF or automatic transmission fluid is very commonly used in a manual transmission. If I remember right that is used for the T-56 a lot as well as the T5 even. my honda tranny can use ATF as well but instead I'm using 5w-30 withotu a problem. it's not like ATF isn't a lube. it has to be a lube just with some other stuff in as well. but it isn't going to make the tranny blow up.


as far as lucas how is something that thick going to improve your gas mileage and give you more power? Honestly it wouldn't shock me at all if the only thing in there is some oil, and plastic. your going to use more effort from the motor to pump that stuff through your oiling system. and if you aer running tight clearances as is (think newer car) it's going to be even worse. plus if that thing is proming metal to metal contact due to airation of the oil, or being thick enough that it isn't getting to the bearings as well as it could that isn't going to promote good gas mileage.


when did motors have gears in them? only gears I'm aware of are timing gears (if equpied usually it is a belt) the rotary has a few gears in them but that is another motor all together, or the transmission,rear end.



and you starving analogy didn't make sense to me too well either.

a 4 bolt main doesn't mean much to me either.

sorry I'm not trying to be grumpy and if I am it's not intended. I JUST woke up

- and, yes, many manual trans use ATF.

doesn't the ATF work REALLY GOOD with synchros? I'm half tempted to switch over on my honda to ATF when the turbo swap goes over. at least once so I can take it to the track

the GM syncromesh(spell check n/a) works the best.

is that an addative or just plain oil that gets used all by itself? if it is just the oil and not the addative what weight is it?

gm sync. is its own fluid not an additive.

in a way that's kinda a bummer.I doubt they make it in something like a 10w-30.

if you could run atf, you can run sycromesh.

...and thats funny

don't even really know about ATF . I'm just willing to give it a shot. my manual calls for 10w-40 to be put in the tranny so are you sure this wouldn't cause any problems?

I am a person who has tried various products in 4 cyl engines. "Duralube," and "Slick 50;" as well as various other treatments in my engines; specifically in my new 1996 DODGE NEON, new car and it burned oil after that; 1 quart per 3-5,000 miles depending on conditions. I suppose it did something horrible to a "NEW" engine. However I have used Lucas Oil Stabilizer and Lucas fuel cleaner in my car now. Although I know nothing about any results with the fuel cleaner or nothing noticeable. The engine Stabilizer reduced oil consumption by a lot. I have a DODGE NEON 2000 yr (DAIMLER CHRYSLER) with 122,000 miles on it. It had a slight knock in the engine and used oil about one quart for 3000 miles; using regular Pennzoil 5w30 oil up until this time (my dad owned it). After adding the Lucas honey to the engine and using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil 5w30; it doesn't burn oil for over 5,000 miles per oil change, and the knock is gone. The engine doesn't even burn a quart for the entire 5,000/oil change and I use the stabilizer at every oil change. I will say it burns about 2 pints of oil per 5,000 miles change. If I can possibly get 300,000 miles on a four banger; it will be worth it to me. Also put Lucas Transmission honey in the trans last trans change too. I noticed a slight change in performance within the transmission shifting smoother; but still making an effort to get the most out of the power train for as long as I can. *NOTICE: ALL VEHICLES that I used these oil enhancing crap on has been specifically CHRYSLER auto's; with the "exception" of one.* I have had only one foreign made auto and that was a SUBARU LEGACY 1992 year. I purchased it in 2004 for $400.00 All vehicles have been 4 cylinder engines. The SUBARU I put Lucas Oil Stabilizer in too. I bought that vehicle at 200,000 miles and got 264,000 miles or 64,000 additional miles before junking it not because of significant engine problems but because there was too much wear and tear on the rest of the car. It was rusting and the bearings in the HUB of the Wheel had deteriorated so bad that it wasn't worth the money to fix. The engine had never been rebuilt to my knowledge. Best $400.00 car I have ever bought. The engine in the SUBARU still burned oil about 1 quart/3,000 miles at 264,000 when it was junked and remember not because of engine problems; the rest of the car was falling apart.

Hell of an old resurrection, LOL

This stuff is for high mileage stuff, where you suspect clearances and/or lubrication are suffering a bit but the motor is still running well. As we all know, poorly lubed motors, or anything that would prompt you to put this stuff in, can seize at anytime anyways. The stuff can really save your butt and keep a tired old beater moving a long time but when it fails I doubt it did anything to cause it... It just couldn't prevent it.

If you put it in perfect running or new applications and wonder why it ****ed up your motor... Or are worried about it robbing power or hurting parts in race apps... Jump off a bridge and do half a frontflip. THAT is the snake oil marketing at work, trying to get everyone to use it all the time. You might put 80w90 in a high mileage car with no oil overheating on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere... But would you put 80w90 in a perfectly running vehicle to PREVENT that from happening??? Hell no. You are fine, use regular oil as you should and quit blaming the additive for ignorance of user.

And if that guy put Oil Stabilizer in his transmission and is wondering why it ruined all of his clutches... May the Car Gods have mercy on his soul.

Were any of the tests done at operating temp?? Figure that might have some kind of effect. Once the particles thin out they may not be as prone to foaming as a concentrated mix might be.

I have used it in EVERY motor I have built and used and never had a problem with it

The thing is that someone told me once that you should only use it with thicker oils if your car has alot of miles as my 1994 dodge intrepid 3.5L does have 176,000 miles on it. I use Shell Rotella T 15w40 and never had a problem but added 1 quart of lucas oil stabilizer and it did help as it has zinc in it and keeps the cam and so forth from getting wore out and makes the oil pump work better and send it to necessary places in your engine but thats my pick of choice so therefore i don't agree with doing this but it does help my car alot more now. I took the advice of a very close friend and also was reading this on Joe Gibbs racing website or forum somewhere. They are changing the guide lines of oils again in 2011. Taking additives out and putting other ingredients in them now can't remember what it was though.

the Lucasoil transmission stuff has always done me and friends of mine well, fixed any slip i've had

the oil additive i had a bit of an idiotic test for it, I had an 350 with a spun #1 and #8, it had a remote oil filter, with 60 weight oil (the lucas and the vr1 60 weight were about the same consistency...except lucas is sticky)
the thing had 25psi of oil pressure cold (so for about 20 min, it was -30 outside)... obviously if it warmed up it would drop to 5 and you'd hear the rod knocks...
when I added a high volume oil pump (I knew it wasn't going to fix it I had spare parts and some time on my hands) i used a full bottle of lucasoil and the leftover 60 weight...
I let it run for a bit, had 30psi of oil pressure, i put it in gear and pulled it out of the garage (slowly too) it actually blew off the "in" hose for the remote oil filter, no foam and it was actually pretty dark (cleaned out the inside of the block immediately) the oil was definitely still THICK on the driveway... and still sticky.