Ok so recently on here i read alot of comments about there not being a way to get over 300 H.P out of a 305 with 1500 dollars in bolt ons well guys im 16 and im getting ready to buy a 88 with a 305 and im taking the challenge ill being keeping a up to date car domain and a thread on here of how it is going and to u out there that say it cant be done well im eastbound and down loaded up and truck im going to do what u all say cant be done lol had to do it

You can get as much horsepower as you want out of any engine. just comes down to money, and at sixteen, I hope you got rich parents.

yea i know thats y im going to do it cause stupid ppl who think a 305 will take tons of money cause there wrong about that there great and rich parents yea not so much but 1500 for parts and 200 for the car aint much

1500 will net you a sweet nitrous kit.

to bad i always make fun of the bottle fed cars lol id get so much **** if i had it

If your getting the car for $200 you might want to save that $1500 for repairs and a tuneup.

1500 could get you 300 HP. a used set of 305 vortecs for maybe 300. is it tpi? if so get the sdpc base for 400.headers 140. cat back bout 400-500. but of course 1500 could build you a 350 as well.... Think about that first..

I agree, if it were me and had $1500, I'd build a 350 and get some headers. The rest is a chip and some injectors. You could easily get 300-315hp for that much and have a new engine that you know is good.

No 1500 will get you a BAMF nitrous kit

Who says you can't get 300 HP out of a 305 with bolt ons?

You can get it, it's just harder to find. Smaller bore motors don't pull as much air. Thus don't use the heads as much. Less air = less fuel = less power. Why do you think pro stockers run as large of bore as possible, then stroke down to stay at their ci limit? - NOW, that nots to say power can't be had, it's just harder to get, requiring a more precise combination.
Vortec heads, personally, I'd use 350 vortecs. Mild porting, don't mess with runner size (...maybe a little on the exhaust side only), just smooth the bowls and the runner transitions. Good 1-5/8 headers, good 3" exhaust. A healthy hyd roller cam/decent intake combo. The factory type(very thin) 350 head gaskets.
With the proper tune you could find 300 na - the bottle would do wonders....

FYI - the factory 305 in my boat is rated at 235hp, vortec heads and efi

i-roc'z, do you mean 300 at the fly or at the rear wheels? Because with a big cam, aluminum air gap manifold, a good set of iron heads that are ported and polished, roller rockers, 1 piece rods and an bigger iron crank from summit or jegs, you will easily be making over 300 for $1500. I wanted to the same with my 305 but don't have the time and money. Hope you accomplish your goal.

- I'm assuming he's talking 300 at the flywheel. 300 @ the wheels will take more than a NA 305 TPI.
There's no such thing as one piece rods, besides factory rods will handle 300hp. As for the crank, I'll assume you're talking a 3.750 stroke, thus making the motor a 335ci (and requiring new pistons), which will not gain you very much power, especially for the $ involved. Again, the stock crank won't even flinch at 300hp. - Stroking the motor doesn't make much power difference, especially since the difference created is a percentageof the engine's size, and we're talking a smaller motor (thus less gained) . More stroke mostly creates a wider powerband, and more torque.

I bought my car for $2600 and by the end of winter before 2007 summer I will have $2400 to put into my car. Not to mention the $600 already put into it.

Here is my list of parts I am buying:

K&N Intake
Edl manifold (I have TBI) 2bbl
HOOKER headers
HOOKER Y-pipe
HOOKER Cat-back
Random tech Hi-Flow cat
FULL MSD IGNITION (Includes Cap & Rotor, Wires, Starter [3hp], Alternator, Aftermarket MSD Module for the Cap & Rotor, Coil)
AC Delete
Smog Delete
Gatorback Belt (Serpentine)
5sp conversion
Summit HF Water pump, direct fit radiator
180*stat
COMPLETE SILICON HOSE KIT
Full Royal Purple Fluids
O-ring waterneck
Heater valve deleted.

Thats all underhood parts. Not even my body parts.
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You have my 2 favorite combined colors for a car.....and in the right way....orange and black are RAW

Thx guys for all the support and the reason im not doing the 350 is cause i have built them and if i wanted either the 383 or 427 in the shop could go in it but i want the fun and challenge o and yes i do mean at the wheel

300 to the wheel na? Now that will be a hard row to hoe. - You'll deffintely need a good set of heads and healthy bumpstick. Trash the TPI start working with a combination for the stealthram/etc. - With the perfect combination you may find it, but I wouldn't bet on it.......force fed or bottle fed yes.

"There's no such thing as one piece rods,"
I'm sorry, the way I wrote it, you were probably thinking piston rods, I meant 1 piece pushrods. They go for about $100 in summit.

hello

go to the junk yard and get a turbo off the harly ford truck( a big banks turbo also get the wate gate and oil lines), make a system that will allow you to use this turbo ( GET HEADS THAT WILL DROP YOUR COMPRESSION like 882 heads port them out and pollish the runners and combustion chamber) Stud the heads a turbo will increase the efficenty of that motor big time. Install a double roller timming chain and a comp 268 cam kit.
you will have a hard time hooking those tires, use solid u-joints, racing drive shaft, and weld your rear linkage into a box or just go to e-bay and get bolt ons
1 more thing
a minie spool or limited slip with 3:55 gears ( junk yards are loaded with s-10s that have 3:30 to 3:55 gears)
good luck and

GB

rk

"go to the junk yard and get a turbo off the harly ford truck"
That sounds like a cool idea. I saw somebody with a 1966 nova and he had a turbo on it from a truck. Unfortunatley it wan't from a harly truck, it was a peterbuilt big rig. That thing was massive and he fit it under a 1 inch cowl hood. Although the intercooler was so big , it had to go in the backseat.

..only one problem... the Harley trucks have yet to be tubro. They are available supercharged, but that too was an option. Now try finding one that's been junked for whatever reason that still has the motor, none-the-less the charger. - You can hook up a roots blower remote, just like a turbo.

The diesel trucks are turbo, but later-model units have the variable vane turbos, thus requiring a computer to make it operate. On another note, you could slip a thicker head gasket in and drop the compression back. Later model heads would be much better than 882's anyway. - A jy turbo is a decent way to make power, providing it's good. Also, if you do a search there's a couple guys on here running the eaton M90 off the GTP's, which are fairly easy to find. - I'm setting one up for my 305 TPI vortec 'burban.

Any how, the guy said he's looking to make the power na.

You are 16 years old. Spend the money to make a reliable car. Then spend a few years gaining priceless experiance of driving, so you do not kill yourself in front of your peers.

300 Hp out of a 305 is easy. Unfortunately, you should worry about other things before go fast things. This is the number one biggest problem with younger people.

Have you ever seen someone with 24" dubs on a POS. We all have... almost all of them were on the side of the road.

All I am saying is choose your priorities wisely. But, I have a feeling this will have to be a lesson you will learn personally.

Good luck dude.

I see nothing with a fast car as a first car. But you need to remember the two things. Since all cars go fast when you stomp on the gas, it won't matter. Just take 2 things into mind,

One, don't go speeding before you actually know how to drive.

Two, I kind of agree with what nelapse was talking about with a reliable car. If it's $200 I'd make sure it'll be safe and reliable before you spend money on performance parts. MY first car was an 86 IROC but it was in running shape. Although you'll find good deals. Some people are stupid.

And POS with dubs are funny. If you're on a highway (best place) near a city. You'll see funny **** like I did. I heard this crazy noise and it turned out to be some old Dakota that sounds like a fart. It pulls up beside me and over the loud engine (not in a good way), I can hear a stereo that cost more than the truck did I can bet.

<~~~ I am 19 so everyone knows. I bought my car in running order with nothing wrong (good idle, good throttle response (for stock) and started perfect in cold weather) and still made it more reliable. BELIEVE ME RELIABILITY IS BETTER THAN PERFORMANCE. I say this because lets say you had my situation:

I buy a car $2600. AWESOME car just rebuilt professionally. Clean interior and exterior. Rusty but not in a bad way.....So right away I figure lets workout and build this muscle up....well as I was greasing up all my suspension parts I realized my steering brace (wonder bar) was a little weird to me. Checked it and guess what. BUSHINGS ARE GONE (only because I was wiping access grease away and hit the bushing....and it said crumble crumble crumble. Also found a few plugs not hooked up and my temp sensor wasnt attached...it was on but not connected for a reading...Basically all I am saying is I bought my car for $2600 and it had some things needing a fixen. SO JUST WATCH YOURSELF.

The Harley trucks started off as a F150 body. But they also made a Powerstroke F250 version a little later.

True, I wasn't thinking about the F250 edition. - BUT, the 250's are new enough that they are the VVT turbo, thus require a computer control to function properly.

here is what i suggest my dad races Pro stock Camaros on dirt and rite now hes got about 2,000 bucks into a motor and hes pushing out about 650 hp rite now but hes dont all the motor works and thats not couting the bottom end of the motor n block all in the heads and intake / carb ns stuff all together prolly like 3-3500 but i say build up a 350 your getting more cubic inch to play with and ur parts off your 305 will fit i believe

can i ask why anyone is still wasting their time dumping money into these motors? unless it's for a challenge or you just have the parts and no how laying around what is the bother. the fact you can pick up ls1 and ls1 motors for 2k and get twice the gas mileage with reliability just seems a bit beyond me.

being 16 i certainly hope you have a second car and wish you luck.. hope you do it!

My goal is to take whatever motor comes in my car and make it as best an engine as I can. I have an LO3 in my car now and because everyone doubts it....I am completely building this motor up. EVERYTHING will be built, and when I get the money I will buy a new 305 bare block and start building back up.....then from there buy a GTA with a 350tpi and a 5sp and thats what I want. I LOVE GTA'S.....but I dont want to do engine swaps.....to much money.....so later on I hope to buy my fav car ever......the 00 WS6. Hell Yeah. Then since that will have the ls1 into it I will build that up......ALL I am trying to say is my goal is to build up whatever I receive.....its more fun that way.....then when I buy my 240sx I will drop in a 350 and drift it.

P.S. This is a 10 year plan.......make that 20.

FYI - They never made a 350/5-speed. You can probably find one that someone has converted to a 5-speed, but it was never even an option from the factory because the T5 won't handle a 350TPI if driven aggressively.

- To some extent, I agree with Kandied. Personally, I'm not an LSx person, but they make solid power for the $, especially since you can buy a crate motor with a warranty. BUT, with good parts, you can make the same power out of a regular GenII sbc, so they're not neccessarily any "better" of a motor.

I am keeping the original motors in my cars.....I will buy the t-5 or better. I know 5speeds didnt come in them.....You just read my post to quickly I think. LMAO. Anyway I still want one with a manual in it.