Vortec-.550 lift, no machining Anybody ever used these? Think they are legit? He's got good feedback on them. His only negative feedback in the last year, was on a fender, not these springs. Whaddya think? Not bad, if they work right. No machining, no head removal, just pulling off the valve covers and spark plugs (for the air fitting, to hold the valves up)!

Interesting.

The feedback listed appears to be from persons posting after getting the springs but prior to putting in a higher lift cam. So, do they really work? Got me curious!

That guy has been spamming all the local craigslists near me, i'd rather play it safe and get them machined, it doesn't cost that much money.

You hit it on the head! He spammed my local craigslist too, that's how I learned about them.

But, our people don't tolerate spammers... sometimes spam posts are flagged before another post is ever made.

i do know that you can just buy comp cams LS1/6 valve springs (beehive style) and those can provide .550 lift without machining on vortec heads

Got a price or part # on the LS springs? I suspect, all he is doing is buying the LS springs, then marking them up for a profit, if that is all it takes to do, then.

Those look like generic .550 lift springs (melling Z28 springs with the inner dampner removed) and a non-positive lock valve seals. The ones off of a mid 80's turbo dodge (like a daytona or shelby 2.2 litre) have the same diameter around the valve stem and guide boss seal, but are much shorter (no lock ring spring). They only stick up half as far above the guide boss as the posative locking type, that is where the extra lift w/o machining comes in. Shorter seal height = more room between top of seal and bottom of retainer = more lift.

I read about that trick on a hot rod online forum from way back. My other car is a 86 turbo LeBaron, so I had the valve guide seals laying around, they, fit, I was advised against using them, and did not, mostly for oil control reasons.

They did look awful tempting though. If you try them, let us know how they work.

Myself...I don't have a set of Vortec heads, nor even in the process of engine builing. But, at 160k miles, even though my engine feels perfectly fine, I'd rather have my plans pretty much set, since the GTA is my only car, and I'd rather get it replaced quickly.

In fact, my plan is to buy a crate shortblock, build it, and swap everything over quickly. If everything is ready, it shouldn't take more than a long weekend. Like, Fri. morning through Sunday evening perhaps? Since it would all be plug-&-play.

comp cams valve sprins 26915 ~ $160 a set of 16 and the comp cams 26918 valve spring ~$180. then you need the retainers (774 = $60) and 7* keepers (648 $28) But atleast its new parts from comp cams. Trusted products. So yes his are cheaper, but i have always found ....you get what you pay for.

Not sure if I understand...

retainers-$60
keepers-$28

but 2 spring sets? or 2 options on the springs?

comp cams valve sprins 26915 ~ $160 a set of 16 comp cams 26918 valve spring ~$180

Can you explain a little better?

Im sorry, there are two options on the springs. You just need to buy one set. Both give you the same max lift (.550) but the more expensive when has a higher seat pressure. The retainers and keepers will work on both sets though and you need to buy those along with the springs.

I figured you were just giving 2 options. I just wanted to clarify it.

I'd rather spend the extra $ on Comp Cams stuff than some yahoo who spams craigslists. If an individual REALLY has a good product, it'll advertise itself, ans no spamming with be needed.

I think were missing the point,, coil bind is not the primary concern, while it is an issue, vortec heads valve guides are cast taller than standard heads for the use of positive seals.regard less of springs, the spring retainer WILL hit the top of the guide seal at anything above .460 lift, want more lift, machine them, it`s just that simple!

my e-techs will only hold 550 lift i think is the max so wouldnt do it to a normal set. without machining them you might get away with it for a little while. i have seen people put to big of cam in and pull their rocker studs out not pretty

hattmuber is correct.. springs aren't going to solve the problem... comp cams sells the tools to machine the head yourself with a cutter you can use in an electric drill.. or send to the machine shop.. trust me i learned the hard way and killed 2 cams before coming to my senses and realized that it basically was limited to the valve guide boss height and slowly destroyed the cams.. the springs are recommended because aftermarket cams are ground more aggresive and need the stronger springs to help control the valves from the quick ramps and limit valve bouncing.. plus the car just plain ran better with the matched comp cam springs to the cam.


edit: also it didn't cost that much money and was definately cheaper than replacing cams

I got my info from :
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...pring_upgrade/

I guess it could be wrong but im going to try it out
*had the wrong address up there its good now*

buy springs that match your camshaft. I would go even further and get cam and springs from the same company. If not your taking to much risk.