Aftermarket Product ReviewProvide questions and answers about aftermarket parts for the Third Generation F-Body.
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well i heard that it doesnt have any detergents in it? Isn't that bad for the car or am I crazy?
... brad i told you if it really matters my job stocks amsoil or you really could just buy regular dinosaur oil.... it ownt hurt your car, remember its a chevy if it aint smoking you're walking
... brad i told you if it really matters my job stocks amsoil or you really could just buy regular dinosaur oil.... it ownt hurt your car, remember its a chevy if it aint smoking you're walking
also try to look and make sure it has a high pressure additive zync, i think its ddzp or something like that. you just have to make sure it has that high pressure crap.
On a side thought you could run rotella t i know that stuff has the high pressure package
__________________ -Alex
"It's a Chevy... If it ain't smokin, you're walkin." ----------- My Cardomain site
a buddy of mine at work put together a motor with the holley intake, cam,etc.. package. wiped out the cam in 20 minutes. called holley and they highly recommended the rotella and a break in lube from gm which i'm not familiar with.
when building a motor, you need the zinc, hence why you were recommended the diesel oil (but even there the additive are being changed for emissions reasons). If nothing was done specifically for the break-in period, thats why parts were smoked.
a buddy of mine at work put together a motor with the holley intake, cam,etc.. package. wiped out the cam in 20 minutes. called holley and they highly recommended the rotella and a break in lube from gm which i'm not familiar with.
Even the synthetic manufacturers will tell you...Break in a new engine on Dyno oil, then switch. Synthetics aren't good for engine break ins.
a buddy of mine at work put together a motor with the holley intake, cam,etc.. package. wiped out the cam in 20 minutes. called holley and they highly recommended the rotella and a break in lube from gm which i'm not familiar with.
I guess it was a non roller. You have to brake inn these cams at betwen 2000-3000rpms for 20min even with addatives
i run royal purple in my car and love it no problems.. i have a rebuilt engine broke it in on quaker state and the royal purple doesnt thin out on long trips like regular oil does
Detergents are more useful for "dirty old sludgey" engines. That is way on really old engines with lots of sludge, people will add a quart of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) for it's detergent qualities.
But, if you change your oil on a regular basis and using a good synthetic, detergents aren't as important.
While I personally use Mobil 1 (mainly because it's readily availabe where I live and realitively cheaper cost), I have only heard good things about Royal Purple. If it was readily available at the same price as Mobil 1 (where I live), I would have no hesitation to use it.
If u have a flat teppet style motor a straight 30W diesel oil is the best way to go. It still has the zinc additives which none of the regular ones on the shelf have. I personally use rotella 30W in mine. If u have a roller motor i would highly recommend royal purple.
__________________ 84 Trans am crate 350w/cam/headers,intake,carb,dist,and exhaust,T5,D/F centerforce,4.11's,auburn locker,moser axles.
91 S10 406,TH350,9"
97 corvette Bolt ons lowered on C6 wheels
also with flattappets you can use Valvoline VR1 (readliy avalible from jegs) ive also seen them at murrays/autozone by me but only n 20w-50 but 10w-30 can be had from jegs.
got 90,000 miles on a flat tappet with it and no problems.