Greetings, I wanna remplace my crankshaft for a new one, I wanted some advice on the best places to buy it, I don't like ebay very much but if any of you know a good seller I'll be please to know about him. By the way, I looked over the threads about a good shop to buy a complete SB 350: http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/ is the one I kept in mind so far, any other good adresses? Thank you for your time and answers.

I bought a set of hedman headers from CNC motorsports through their ebay store. The service was good. I had to have the header sent to Australia and that was no problem.

Any auto parts store will stock a remanufactured 305/350 crankshaft for the 1 piece rear main blocks. The kit will come w/ new bearings. They are not expensive at all. Advance auto parts definitely stocks them.

Nice adress,thank you very much, I have a question by the way: for example
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...Crankshaft+Kit

Which one would be the best for a 305? They always put 2 engines in the descriptions: 305 and 350 ("305 Chevrolet engine and 350 Chevrolet LT1 engine with Vortex short skirt pistons") does it matter?, 305 and 350 are definitly not the same engines...

Same engine ,no but crankshaft is the same.

Just curious, why are you wanting to replace the crank anyway?

305 and 350 are the same engine when it comes to crank selection

No, the crankshafts for a 305 and 350 are not the same. They have the same casting numbers and stroke, but they're machined differently for the different balance.

Do you think a mass rebuilder really keeps track of what the original app was? Once it's out of the engine, all they have is part #. Are there very obvious visual differences?

I was talking to Frank Kimmel about building a lightweight rotating assembly for a road race car, and he told me they used to use 305 cranks in 350s a lot. He said the 305 crank was several pounds lighter, and cheap.

Yes, there are. You can easily tell a 305 crank from a 350.
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Presumably you'd be balancing that engine, so the original application would be moot.

Ok, thank you for all your answers, to answer the question: why do you want to remplace your crank: Mine is badly scratched...I don't know if I should bore it or no...I'd rather buy a good remanufactured one, no?

You can get a cheap new aftermarket cast crank for nearly the same cost as grinding the journals on your old one. Less things to worry about if you grind your journals though. Since you took it out of your engine, you'll know for certain that i'll go back in and work at least as well as it did before without any quality control or balancing issues.

they look exactly the same but you need a long straight edge to tell if its a 350 or 305. The balancing is diffrent

After you've seen it once, you don't need the straightedge. This is a 305 crank.

Do you already have the block torn down to bits? Now is a good time to consider finding a roller 350 block from a caprice/truck and swapping parts over. If you have the $400 or so extra now, it's the cheapest HP you can get (one time only offer, once it's built up again it's hard to justify taking apart again).
Otherwise, cutting the journals down .010 or .020" on the crank is maybe $150 or so. If you get a new one and needs to be balanced ($300) then you wonder why you bothered.

Did you have a problem with your last crank?

I did not but when I took it off, the guy who were helping me that they could cut it but that it will lose his durability and the engine will lose some HP: BS? I've never done it and I don't know about the consequences...

You won't lose durability or performance by grinding the crank journals.

Thank you all for the answers, help me a lot but by the way Is it the same for the camshaft? no consequences on performance and durability?

Yep, you can reuse your camshaft. No machining is necessary on a cam.

Only if it's a roller cam, or if it's a flat tappet cam and you've kept track of which lifter goes on which lobe.

So you're all saying: go for it Rempa, Bore those camshaft and crankshaft, it will be cheap and usefull again without any consequences? right? sorry hehe, I'm worried about this operation, I wanted some experts advices and benediction beore taking a decision.

Camshafts and crankshafts get ground, not bored, and generally nobody would bother regrinding an SBC cam anyway.

That's exactly what we're saying Rempa. Go Rempa!!!
If this is on your 1987 TPI engine, i've fairly certain that's a roller cam, so you just reuse it. Just like a bolt, no worries. Just remove, clean it up maybe, put it back in. No machining or anything.

And yes, you grind the crankshaft to a certain undersize, and buy bearings to match that. .010, .020, .030" undersize. Summit has aluminum bearings in the common undersizes for $12/set (mains and rods), that's the best price i've seen yet.

Out of sheer curiosity, what is your location?

You won't believe me: I'm a french in the dominican republic that's why I don't really trust the garage guy, not because he's not good, just because 80% of the cars are japaneses here and that's why I'm buying all the parts by myself.

If I wanna remplace the camshafts what would be a good remplacement option?, there are too many options, I wanna find a good performance remplacement but I get to cnc for example I just get lost in references (ex: http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=12792 which one??!!)

thank for the support >_<

You want a factory roller cam, hydraulic roller. This catagory
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=12923
This one would be ok
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=12923

See sig for some information about camshafts. Get you some terminology under your belt

SB Chevy 262-400, Computer Controlled 87-98" OE Hydraulic Roller Cam, Except LT1 & LT4 - .450" Int .480" Exh lift (1000-5000)

When I open the link it gives me a list in both cases, I don't understand the last part of the description: .450" Int .480 and this Exh lift (1000 - 5000) What does operating range means? optimal use in those rpms? what about the intake lift and exhaust lift part? I wonder why cause all those cams cost the same, but are all differents...oh..and last thing (maybe not) the lifters...On cnc you can get a combo of cam + lifters, any recomandations?

Thank you.

Cams cost the same because they're made the same way.

It will work best in that RPM range. That's based on a 350CID usually, so it'll be a tad higher.
Your TPI engine doesn't run well at the higher RPM's due to the intake manifold, so pick a cam that complements low end power - for maximum "FUN".

"if you don't know, ask..."

"so pick a cam that complements low end power" your advice is to put a cam to "counter-balance" the fact that 305 tpi doesn't run well at higher rpms:
is the cam with highest rpm range (2000-6000) so the engine will support higher rpms? or hte other with the lowest rpm (1000-5000) cause due to the maniflod it won't change anything...

Thank you Sonix and Apeiron

ok you somewhat confused me there.

The stock intake manifold on the TPI engine is designed to make GREAT low and midrange torque. The runners (the intake ports basically) are LONG. This makes for good velocity. Anyway, it means the engine will have a hard time breathing well at higher RPM's (above 5000RPM).

So you can either get a short runner intake manifold (holley stealthram, miniram, etc etc), and get the cam of your choice, or get a cam to compliment the existing intake manifold.
Your stock cam is TINY. It might have an RPM range of 500-4500RPM or so. It also has small lift. So if you get that 1000-5000RPM cam it will add more grunt to your engines performance all around. If you get a cam that's too big, the cam will give you bad performance at low end, and the intake will cut off the top end, giving you the worst of both worlds. ie. you will have a powerband of 3000-4000RPM type of thing

My specialty is not in the TPI injection stuff. So don't take my advice when it comes to intake manifold choices or anything, i'm just giving you generic advice here. That 1000-5000RPM cam would work pretty well, meaning you don't have to buy a whole bunch of other parts (chip burning stuff for example). I believe your '87 car uses mass airflow injection rather than speed density, making it less sensitive to changes such as a camshaft.

Anyway, if you want more info on this, start a thread in the TPI forum asking about a suggested camshaft. You've kind of run to the end of where the "Aftermarket product review" board is best.

You're right, I should swap to the techboard, once again thank you very much for all the advices, the time to explain stuff, it really helped me!