Aftermarket Product ReviewProvide questions and answers about aftermarket parts for the Third Generation F-Body.
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The deluxe kit (12497698) provides all the nuts, bolts, brackets, braces--along with the accessories--required for installation. Also included is a four-wire alternator pigtail. Instructions for moding it to a two-wire can be see in the following link (lower left/Serpentine Wiring Connections--you can also see the kit itself if you type in the above part number):
Parts are nicely labeled. The instructions are generally good, though two studs were reversed on the pass side, I thought. Those instructions can be seen in the following link:
I required a heater-hose connection for the water pump (in my application) and a pigtail for the AC compressor (12101937). The metal fuel line on my carbed car interfered with the kit bracket, so I cut it and used rubber line. The power steering lines bolted up without problem. I used two washers between the pass side brace and AC compressor as shims.
I have had the GMPP kit on my car for about a year now. The V belt setup was missing the AC compressor and brackets when I bought the car, so instead of hunting all the parts down I just bought the serpentine setup. I got Summit to price match Flow Chevrolet @ $680 for the complete kit with AC compressor and all. Not to shabby of a price for what all you get. Now I don't have to worry about anything going out on me. I had to buy an AC line, other than that it was complete. Mine came with a harness. I did have a problem with installation though, the instruction part numbers didn't match the part numbers for the bolts and nuts but it was pretty easy to figure out.
So you converted your 4 belt setup to serpentine. How about the A/C hoses? Any issues?
Crap, forgot to mention the hoses in my original post. The GM part number, which I think is discontinued, is 10089457. At any rate, I purchased CarQuest 200726 CTC. Haven't hooked the hoses up yet, but I foresee no problems. Not that it matters, but my 85 had a three-belt system.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
Just a word a caution. The hoses I mention above, CarQuest 200726 CTC, seem to be hit and miss. The first set wouldn't fit correctly at the drier; the second worked. If I had to order again, I'd go with AC Delco 1530011.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
One final tidbit: If you're obsessive like I am, you might want the GM label which shows the correct belt routing (with or without AC): 10179230. I can't recall the exact year, but it's from a mid-to-late 90's pickup. The catch? $17.60.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
Hey James,how about making a scan of that belt routing label and post it here. I'll copy it and laminate it and glue it to my hood underside cause I'm a cheapo.
Hey James,how about making a scan of that belt routing label and post it here. I'll copy it and laminate it and glue it to my hood underside cause I'm a cheapo.
I've heard that about you way up here in northern Kansas . Since the sticker is on-car, the best I can do is a pic. Gotta do that anyway to update my vgarage (the conversion kit, Spohn spherical strut mounts, and Edelbrock STB).
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
Jamesc, did you have a problem with the bat. terminal on the alternator hitting the valve covers?
I have mine installed now and the biggest problem was the stud on the a/c bracket was too short. I put the other stud on and it was too long. The brace for the p/s bracket did not line up right so i had to enlarge the hole at the alt. just a hair.
Do you think the a/c bracket brace HAS to be on? It just does not line up. With 4 bolts tourqued correctly I just don't see it being a problem. I don't have a/c so that is a lot of weight off of it.
Jamesc, did you have a problem with the bat. terminal on the alternator hitting the valve covers?
I have mine installed now and the biggest problem was the stud on the a/c bracket was too short. I put the other stud on and it was too long. The brace for the p/s bracket did not line up right so i had to enlarge the hole at the alt. just a hair. Do you think the a/c bracket brace HAS to be on? It just does not line up. With 4 bolts tourqued correctly I just don't see it being a problem. I don't have a/c so that is a lot of weight off of it. By the way, nice IROC!
No problem here with the terminal and valve covers. I too experienced trouble with the two studs as I mention above. I put the short one on the outside and the long on the inside (that's the only way they'd fit, IIRC). I didn't use the upper outside bolt on driver's side bracket--it just wouldn't line up. I wish now I'd have have elongated the hole a bit, but all's well so far. No problem with either brace (I used the spacers since I'm running headers). Here's a link that shows a few more pics and both braces if you look closely--I guess you've seen the pics in my Car Details. Thanks for the compliment, by the way.
The reman alternator on the above system took a dump after approximately five months. I expected better for the price, but.... I purchased new, a Duralast Gold, with a lifetime warrantee.
EDIT: The tensioner belt pulley went south as well. It had been moaning for a sometime--I'd guess a year--but I didn't attribute the sound to the pulley. I replaced it with a Dayco piece, p/n 89007, from Advance Auto and all's well.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
Mine also went out, but it lasted over 2 years. I had it rebuilt by a local shop. It puts out a little over 170 amps now. Lights, air, wipers, stereo, etc. all on and the needle doesn't budge. The only thing that makes it dip is the bottle heater.
I just pulled a factory serp setup off a 90 RS at the local junkyard, interesting enough all the part numbers on the brackets and pullies are the same as the GMPP serp kit. the setup i got even had a reman alternator on it, got the whole shebang for 100, all accessories, brackets, pullies, bolts etc. not bad considering i was planning on buying the GMPP kit, its not quite as shiny new as a new one would be, but saving $600 was worth it to me lol.
if you have tall valve covers or just don't like the positive alternator studs being that close to the valve covers, then all you have to do is reclock the alternator and its far away
I'm running edelbrock heads, so hopefully they have all the correct holes drilled, i havent checked yet to be sure.
You need the 3 std holes per head. The ones low closest to the intake manifold get a stud as does the drivers side upper bolt hole for front motor mounts. The studs have inverted torx ends to srew them in.
You need the 3 std holes per head. The ones low closest to the intake manifold get a stud as does the drivers side upper bolt hole for front motor mounts. The studs have inverted torx ends to srew them in.
Just a note: Instructions for the kit mention the following for the alternator and power steering pump bracket: The inboard bolt to the cylinder head may not line up, depending on the cylinder head being used. If this bolt cannot be installed, continued on to the next stage. The system was tested without this bolt installed and no problems were noted. One some applications, the hole in the bracket can be bored out to accept the bolt.
Also, in the kit, there were no inverted torx.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
Why did you convert your serpentines, for what reasons? Check out how simple mine is, and I just bought a shorter belt, lol. It cost me basically nothing, makes you feel like you wasted your time doesn't it?
Why did you convert your serpentines, for what reasons? Check out how simple mine is, and I just bought a shorter belt, lol. It cost me basically nothing, makes you feel like you wasted your time doesn't it?
On the contrary, I'm perfectly content with swapping from a three-V-belt system to the serp system. I swapped basically for two reasons: to clean up the engine bay/ease of use and I wanted to run an STB which I couldn't accomplish with the old system.
thats true, but if you did it like I did, who needs power steering? A/C? or a smog pump? Simply remove the other two belts, leaving only your waterpump and Alternator, and save some power, but you probably want power steering, but that sucks too. Who needs it unless your going to be carving corners?
Why did you convert your serpentines, for what reasons? Check out how simple mine is, and I just bought a shorter belt, lol. It cost me basically nothing, makes you feel like you wasted your time doesn't it?
Serpentine system from the V6 won't fit on a 350 That's MY excuse.
You need the 3 std holes per head. The ones low closest to the intake manifold get a stud as does the drivers side upper bolt hole for front motor mounts. The studs have inverted torx ends to srew them in.
Just to update this, I had zero issues mounting this setup to my car with the 74 block and edelbrock RPM heads. I'm also running an edelbrock fuel pump and I have no issues with the mechanical pump and the serp setup. Also running a reverse flex fan with the stock 83 fan shrouds and no issues. Very satisfied with the setup. My car will finally have working A/C again after more than a decade of it not working lol.
Hey all, I just joined this forum for this thread and it's very informative thanks a bunch. I'm doing this swap to an older Goodwrench 350 with only 1 pass side bolt hole. I would like to run A/C with my car seeing it's still hooked up. Are there any alternatives to drilling and tapping out the cylinder head? Like upgrading the bolts to grade 8 and such? Or am I pretty much stuck. The last setup I tried using needed 3 bolts to properly install as well, and if I need to drill the holes out for these too, it's pretty much a waste of buying this setup. Anyone help me out?
By the way it's a mechanical fuel pump. Would changing from the smog pump to the delete pulley affect it in any way?
Hey all, I just joined this forum for this thread and it's very informative thanks a bunch. I'm doing this swap to an older Goodwrench 350 with only 1 pass side bolt hole. I would like to run A/C with my car seeing it's still hooked up. Are there any alternatives to drilling and tapping out the cylinder head? Like upgrading the bolts to grade 8 and such? Or am I pretty much stuck. The last setup I tried using needed 3 bolts to properly install as well, and if I need to drill the holes out for these too, it's pretty much a waste of buying this setup. Anyone help me out?
By the way it's a mechanical fuel pump. Would changing from the smog pump to the delete pulley affect it in any way?
Thanks,
Eric
Its not the bolts breaking thats the problem. Its the actual aluminum brackets themselves that break from not having enough support due to the missing bolts.
Might be a dumb question here but what do you do with the reverse rotation water pump and the clutch fan for those of us with older cars(82). I did not want to convert to electric fan(s).
Might be a dumb question here but what do you do with the reverse rotation water pump and the clutch fan for those of us with older cars(82). I did not want to convert to electric fan(s).
Install a late model water pump from an '88-later model year.
You'll have to find a fan and clutch from a serpentine belt vehicle. I would think any fan and clutch from a truck would work (just because my Safari van has a reverse rotation fan and clutch).
Yup, the fan and clutch have to specifically be reverse rotation. If you want to get one from Checker or Autozone, ask for a fan clutch from a late model Caprice ('91 was the year I used)
Usually you need to use a shroud with a manual fan, driven off the motor's water pump, but there isn't much room in a thirdgen for a manual fan, and its going to be close to the throttle body and airpipe/tubing or whatever you'll use. Were you going to go carbed? Or setup a carb manifold with a Throttle body on top of the intake?
so on my particular car, the a/c compressor and the alternator are flip flopped for some reason. a/c compressor on driver side and alternator on passenger side. would this change anything if i bought the general conversion kit?
so on my particular car, the a/c compressor and the alternator are flip flopped for some reason. a/c compressor on driver side and alternator on passenger side. would this change anything if i bought the general conversion kit?
That was the positioning on my 85 before the conversion.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
They have a delete pulley for firebirds and one for the truck setup, so either way. They also have a delete pulley for the smog pump through summit racing.
ok first i must admit that I no longer have a camaro. I have a 400 sb (in my 75 vette) that i want to do the serpentine conversion swap on. I want to do it cheap so not going the MARCH etc route. found some interesting sites saying all I need to do is get all of the 89ish chevy pickup brackets and pulleys and what not and I should be able to acheive this. I need drivers side alt and p/s and pass a/c. According to the masses i should just be able to go to the junk yard and get this for cheap. The problem i am having is the junkyards around here want to sell the whole motor and that makes it not so cheap. If anybody has this stuff laying around and wants to sell it please send me a message. remeber I need it all and I'm not looking to spend too much
Well 1st off c3 corvettes use vette only pulleys and water pump, reason I just went with March V-belt vette pulleys. My 85 TA had flat belt or serpentine w/o tensioner, but it was for a longstyle water pump. And since most stuff is long pump style, your prob not gonna find anything that'll just bolt on. I'm sure you can get something to work with lots of adjustments and maybe an aftermarket bracket or two. But I'm almost posative you'll need some short pump pulleys, if they even make them serpentine.
Now I didn't buy the vette only water pump because it cost more, I used a short water pump and 3/16 of shim behind the pulley, or you can just press the pump hub out 3/16.
ok first i must admit that I no longer have a camaro. I have a 400 sb (in my 75 vette) that i want to do the serpentine conversion swap on. I want to do it cheap so not going the MARCH etc route. found some interesting sites saying all I need to do is get all of the 89ish chevy pickup brackets and pulleys and what not and I should be able to acheive this. I need drivers side alt and p/s and pass a/c. According to the masses i should just be able to go to the junk yard and get this for cheap. The problem i am having is the junkyards around here want to sell the whole motor and that makes it not so cheap. If anybody has this stuff laying around and wants to sell it please send me a message. remeber I need it all and I'm not looking to spend too much
What about the U Pull It locations? There's one on South 60th and another on 14th and Grace. From what I've heard it's about like the boneyards in Lincoln- show up with your tools and pull what you want/need, pay and be on your merry way.