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Old 05-23-2008, 10:23 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Flowood,MS
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Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI
Transmission: 700r4,2500 stall
Axle/Gears: G80,10 bolt 3.42's

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Powertrax lock right

Wondering if anyone is useing the powertrax lock right locking diff.Thinking about getting one,my unit is shot.How is it on the street?Is it reliable or is will it soon grenade?any info appreciated.
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Old 05-25-2008, 01:26 PM   #2
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Re: Powertrax lock right

TTT Nobodys used this or heard any good,bad or ugly things about this
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Old 05-25-2008, 04:09 PM   #3
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Car: 1983 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: LG4 305ci 4bbl
Transmission: 700r4
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Re: Powertrax lock right

i've heard the lockers are prone to breaking easily and they're not very good for high speed turns. everyone i've talked to thinks a detroit true track is the best and most cost efficient way to go for a brand new posi. it would even be good to find a used (but in good shape) posi unit or whole rear end from a 3rd or 4th gen.
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Old 05-25-2008, 05:36 PM   #4
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Flowood,MS
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Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI
Transmission: 700r4,2500 stall
Axle/Gears: G80,10 bolt 3.42's

Classifieds Rating: (3)
Re: Powertrax lock right

Thanks.I would love to put in a 4th gen rear but I`m having trouble finding a posi rear I can afford.I found one out of a 2000 SS and the guy wanted 500 bucks.
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Old 05-25-2008, 06:26 PM   #5
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Clarkston, MI
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 with B&M shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.23 zexel 4th gen

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Re: Powertrax lock right

From what I understand, the powertax lockers are actually pretty tough. I talked to a guy from Richmond (who owns powertrax) and he told me its made of the same nickle or whatever alloy that top fuel dragster axles are made of, so it's really limited to the strength of the carrier. Additionally, it's supposed to be pretty easy to install them. If I didn't get lucky and find a rear assembly for $250 I would've probably done this. On the corners, if you try and turn sharp while hard on the throttle you'll get some wheel spin/hop but otherwise they are supposed to be fine. If you want something cheap and tough this might be for you.
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Old 05-25-2008, 06:54 PM   #6
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Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73

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Re: Powertrax lock right

One guy on here has one and swears by it, then one other guy swears against it...
Nightrider_87 - I think is the guy who loves his. mild 350SBC which runs 11's. Go figure...I want his secret
And I think Pat Hall is the guy who swears against them. Do a search on a technical board eh?
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Old 05-25-2008, 06:57 PM   #7
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Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
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Re: Powertrax lock right

i had one and absolutely hated it, thank god i bought it for cheeep. not smooth, a real pain, noisy, and IMO dangerous. and to be honest, it wasnt much better than my open rear, it would pop apart at weird times. Dont waste your time. buy a good posi or if you can a 4th gen rear.
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Old 06-18-2008, 06:18 AM   #8
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Car: 91 B4C
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Re: Powertrax lock right

I had one in my 90 Suburban for a few years. After about 15k miles it started geting louder (clicking around turns) I checked the air gap between the enguagement teeth and it was fine. The cross shaft was developing an edge where the axle rides so I replaced it and it worked a little smoother. 10k more and it real noisey and clucks loudly occasioally. Checked the airgap again and its still within their tolerance but the gear eges are getting chewed up and the cross shaft is getting the ridges again. I pulled it out chucked it and put the spider gears back in. I should have just bought an clutch type limited slip for another $130 over the cost of the powertrax. It did work well for the first 15k or so miles however.
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Old 06-18-2008, 06:18 AM
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