DirtyCanadian

I seen the guys on hot rod tv use it for years and years, now I finally seen it on the shelf its expensive bout 8-12 bucks a qt. IS it worth it? does it really help get a few horse? is there better products for a 70's rebuilt chev 350?

SovereignDragon

i've been using it for a few years now and love it. something a lot of people don't realize is that yes it is more expensive but you only have to change your oil every 10,000 to 12,000 miles with it. if you don't believe me just go to thier website. you still have to change your filter though of course. as for power i didn't feel it right away but the engine seemed to run smoother and smoother the more i used it. at least that's how it was in my mustang. i just started putting it in my trans am so we'll see if it works the same.

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91z 2 8

my mechanic told me not to use synthetic in my engine cause he said it would seep through every hole it could. is that true i want to use royal purple but didnt cause he said that so if you thing its false tell me please.

Toehead

That is a false statement.

It does have more detergents in it, so if you have a seal that is shot, but being held together by crud in your engine, it may sart leaking as the synthetic cleans the crud away. Still, i'd rather have synthetic and a clean engine.

Rayzor32

overpriced hype, castrol syntec and mobil 1 full synthetic are just as good and much less money

StreetRoc85 350

Actually royal purple was less expensive than mobil 1 at auto zone the other day. mobil 1 was like $6.99 and they had the RP for $4.99. i filled my truck with it and it seems to run a bit smoother although its really way to soon to tell. (2008 Colorado w/ 10k miles). My gas mileage did improve a bit but that will happen any time you ditch conventional for synthetic. Ive always been a die hard Mobil 1 guy but its only recently that RP has been available off the shelf. Im going to try it next time i change the oil in the 'roc.

87zjeff

I have Amsoil in my motor right now but i am running Royal Purple in the rear end.

also, it doesn't give you more horsepower. just seems like it because the synthetic helps the engine be more efficient.

Stephen

It's not that IT makes more horsepower, but it can reduce friction that is costing you horsepower. It can free up horsepower that can be being robbed.

Less friction=better efficiancy=more horsepower

So basically....It does "give" you more horsepower.

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1989GTATransAm

As some of you know there are different grades of Royal Purple. What we most commonly see is the $7.00 a quart version on the shelf. They also make varities that cost around $15.00 a quart. That is what most racers use.

I'm currently running the off the shelf stuff and my car does not leak. Running Mobile One in the tranny and rear end. I have no issues with it or Mobile One.

DirtyCanadian

I use ESSO oil and it seems to never burn and has been really good for me.

mattsv8_03

ive ren it in all my cars and my race car. no leaks and great oil.
holds up well to e85 and nos and evan rich on gas mixes
and i like the less frequent oil changes
if it leaks than looks like it was time for some rings to get the compression out of the bottom of the motor. or at least some new gaskets.

Rayzor32

esso? what is it 25 years old??

3rdgenmaro

I have been using diesel oil (mobil Delvac) in my flat tappet motors lately for the added zinc protection. Does synthetic oils offer the same protection for flat tappet cams? Or are they primarily for roller cams?

safemode

synthetic oil is superior to conventional because the oil is more homogenous, and the molecules themselves are more indicative to lower friction. This also makes the oil behave much better across temperature ranges that the engine runs at, and allows for a higher temp threshhold for maintaning lubrication ability. I really dont think the oil cares what kind of cam is being used. If your engine requires thicker oil because clearances are larger, then use that, if it requires thinner, then use that. The whole idea that synthetic is thinner or will leak out is nonsense. The thickness is designated on the bottle, and it is the same regardless of the type of oil. If your engine is relying on gunk buildup to not "leak" then fix your crappy engine, gunk buildup isn't a good seal.

There are two types of synthetic. Real synthetic is type 4 oil. pseudo synthetic is type 3. Type 3 is just refined conventional, and still requires additives to function well. Type 4 does not require additives, thus it does not break down nearly as fast as type3 or conventional. You can go 10k miles on type 4 with only filter changes and top offs and the oil will still be better than conventional at regular intervals.

Use the correct synthetic in everything, your car will be happy. (motor oil, gear oil, trans fluid, grease, etc).

That being said, royal purple is now sold at walmart. I'm sure it's the lower grade version.

3rdgenmaro

No, the oil doesnt care, but the cam does! Ask any engine builder if you should use today's conventional oils in a flat tappet cammed motor and see what they say. Today's oils have lower zinc levels. Zinc is a major lubricant for flat tappet cams. The downside though is that increased zinc also messes up emissions (O2 sensors). Since todays motors are either overhead cam or roller cammed (thus not needing the added lubrication), the zinc level has been decreased to prevent premature O2 sensor failure. So flat tappet motors should be run using a high zinc oil. Diesel oils (for now), especially those carring the rating CI-4, have high zinc content.

Now back to my question that was not answered. Does today's synthetic oils have efficient lubrication for a flat tappet cammed engine? Over a lifetime, not a year or two.

safemode

IROCJoyce

I used Mobil 1 in my last oil change and wow did it make a big change over Pensoil standard!! My motor runs so much smoother!! I recommend it highly and I have over 100,000 miles on my original motor. Runs like a CHAMP!!

DirtyCanadian

No ESSO oil isnt 25 years old its in Canada is probly the reason you think that

Rayzor32

oh yeah thats right they still got essos in canada

Rydda

ok, so i get the point about the oil, and im sorry for thread jacking, but its on topic. whats everyones opinion of the royal purple coolant additive? i was thinking of running water in my car and adding some of the coolant additive and wanted to get some feed back on it.

Rayzor32

i havent used purple ice, but i did use water wetter (it was cheaper) and it actually did lower my coolant temps like maybe 5-8 degrees. I also used it with straight water (summer). The thing is if you are going to run straight water you first need to be sure there is a ZERO chance of freezing. Then you NEED to use a CORROSION INHIBITOR and WATER PUMP LUBRICANT. also it is recommended you use distilled water, but its not necessary.

xurusaibobx

amsoil in all my cars 100% percent Sythenic! not no full sythenic wanabe crap -there is a big difference from full sythenic and 100%

RP does have a lot of cleaners in the oil that can eat away at seals over time.

89RS_82Z

im impressed with Mobil1, i dont have that puff of smoke at start up anymore and my 1 lifter that used to leak down if the car sat a few days dont leak down anymore, i was running cast syth blend before

i got RP in the rear end and tranny, happy with them so far

84maroman

Contrary to popular thinking, oil changes CAN increase wheel horse power. I've seen and read several items where they run cheap oil all the way up to the expensive and measured horsepower differences. The one in recent memory was done on a Acura Integra and they gained 2.2whp with Royal Purple oil. Seeing how it had an average whp of like 130's, that's a good amount. They also did one on a 00 LS1 camaro and gained 6+ whp.

safemode

if you have a lot of parasitic drag caused by crappy oil or friction caused by crappy oil then yea, better oil frees that up.

the difference between full synthetics is whether it's group 3 or group 4. Group4 is _real_ synthetic. Only a couple oils are in this group. Mobil 1 is one.

Group 4 requires no additives to behave the way it does. Though they probably still add stuff in as detergents and what not.

Group 3 is refined conventional oil, filtered and such to be very high quality (though it's still conventional). As such, it still needs additives to perform like a synthetic does across temp ranges. These additives are what break down under heat and friction and thus, these "full synths" dont last as long as group 4's do. They also dont perform _as_ well. But they're still better than blends and conventional oil. They're also usually much cheaper.

group 4 can go 10,000 miles easy. just regular changes of oil filter and top offs needed. I wouldn't be comfortable with group 3 beyond 6000 miles.

nelapse

I just bought my wife a 2008 Kia Sorento.
It requires conventional oil changes every 7500 miles.

7500 miles per oil change on convention 5w 30.

Guess all that Jiffy-lube hype has burned off.

As for Royal Purple. I have used it. It is so thin it just makes my engine leak from places I never seen it leak. In my formula I only use Mobil 1. Reason being. it is $20 for a 5 quart jug at Walmart and it is fully synthetic and keeps my engine clean.

As for my Kia. Walmart Super-tech 5w -30 every 7500 miles. If the car craps out I have a 10 year warranty and as long as I save all the oil receipts for each change (per kia) I will be good.

safemode

if you buy royal purple with the correct ratings 5w30 for instance, then it's _exactly_ as thick or thin as conventional 5w30 or full synthetic 5w30. Now how thick it is when it's hotter than 100C, that's up to the quality of the oil. Full synth will be much thicker than conventional or crappier blends etc at greater than 100C. This is indicative of a better oil. not sure how royal purple stands there. The only reason why conventional may not is that it coagulates and gunks up as it dies of heat wear, so it doesn't get a chance to leak out

Rayzor32