I'm the owner of a 1984 Camaro Z28 with a 350 ci motor dropped in it. I'm looking to have this car running 10 second quarter miles by spring. My First step is to bore and stroke it, redo all the block internals, and top it off with an edelbrock 383 top end kit, pushing 460HP with just the top end kit, add roller rocker arms, titanium push rods, and hot cam and lifter set, and the forged internals, it should be pushing over 520HP with similar torque. Add a large 4 barrel carb (700 cfm or so) and bellit fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator, MSD ignition and coil set, MSD distributor, 3000-3500 stall holeshot torque converter, new gears (havn't decided)(i need help on that), a 180-200 amp alternator, and probably a different rear end and drive line. I'm posting this because i would like advice on this, what you guys think and what you would advise for me to do and if you think a near 600 HP Camaro would run anywhere in the 10's. Thanks! Casey (thats my name haha)

It going to be tough on just motor alone. With a nitrous shot you will easily make high 10's

Oh nice, i forgot all about nos. Thanks

a 460 hp 350 would not be as fast as say a 460 hp 406 because a heavy car needs tq. but the great equalizer is nos. on the average a 150 shot is woth 1 sec and about 200 lbft of tq.
i can easely pick up 2 full sec on my s10 with a 225 hp shot from a big shot kit. its a 355 and the truck weighs in at 3165 with me in it.
t

You won't be anywhere near 460 HP or 10 seconds with an Edelbrock top end.

Don't forget shocks,springs and slicks bedcause 600hp is useless if all you do is spin off the line for the first 60'

Its says it has equal torque for the top end kit, i'm ganna get the th-700r4 tranny rebuilt by raptor so it can handle the horsepower and torque, with all the other mods to the block, and with it bored and stroked to a 383 (if it was bored AND stroked idk the ci it would be running but as a guess around 400ci) Nos definatly sounds like something to invest in, thanks
casey

NOS isnt just something you slap on either.

FIRST and I mean first decide if you want to do full suspension or full motor work. Both can take seconds off your et. I have a friend with 300hp on a 00' camaro pullin the wheels off the ground and trapping 106 in the 1/8th.

Both suspension and motor builds are equally important imo

I'll eventually do the suspension, i was considering just get a 396 motor and doing more to it, it avoid less costum hassle, but i've heard that 396 parts are harder to come by. i think i'll do motor work first, i don't plan to put a blower on the engine, nos is as far as any kind of forced induction as i think i'm going to go, i want to put an engine to as much power as possible without a turbo or supercharger.

wow this post is funny......here is a good question what is your budget for this build? cause to hit 10s by spring is gonna cost ALOT of money......ull need alot of money to build a rock solid motor that can take some spray....and then the rest of the drivetrain and suspension is gonna need alot of upgradeing. If you have the money and you really want to do this u need to sit down and plan out this entire motor down to the last drop of oil...it appears ure just grabing at the big shiney bold print adds in the summet mag right now thinking they will run good together. everything has to compliment each other.

wow it sounds like you have a LOT of research to do.. doesn't sound like you know too much at all.. "and with it bored and stroked to a 383 (if it was bored AND stroked idk the ci it would be running but as a guess around 400ci)" that statement alone tells me you have LOT to learn.. and an edelcrap top end kit is not the best way to dip into the 10's... if you even hope to get close you're going to be investing a LOT of money into suspension components. You will need subframe connectors, a ford nine inch, or chevy 10 bolt rear, cage, etc. Dont fool yourself with "advertised hp claims". What is your budget for this build? I'm hoping something realistic like 10k or so and you already have the car.. Will this be a track only car? What will you be running for fuel? If you are trying to build a street/strip car that dips into the 10's and LSX swap with N20 is probably your best bet. By 396 are you refering to a big block or a small block?

Not trying to bust balls but ad soon as you said "O i forgot all about NOS" I knew you needed some more direction.
Those claims they have for those top end kits in summit, first are with long tube dyno test headers HUGE carbs and a bunch of other thigns that make it produce maximum power, now in a street car it wont produce that. ALSO those power numbers are at the flywheel not at the rear wheels bro. 500 all motor is not the same as 500 all motor TO THE WHEELS.

500 to the WHEELS wont do diddily if it doesnt hook to the ground to move the damn car. So youll dump 6-7k if you do a well designed and well thought out motor built, plus another 2 k on the rear, 2k on the tranny, and another 1-2k on the suspension parts plus roll cage.
Figure around 10-15k to be a well built thirdgen that will last on the track doing 10's all day.

Remember motors dont last on nitrous long if their not build for it!

Get a lsx(thats a ls1-98 to 02 camaro motor then you got the ls2 and ls6's and the new ls9's those are the aluminum headed 346 cubic inch motors)
Ls1 motor out of a 99 trans am and harness and t-56 transmission will run you 2-3k if you search nice and hard.

Throw another 4k on the motor 1k on nitrous again a built rear and tranny and suspension mods and youll have a BEAST 10 second thirdgen that will be decent on gas too!

Don't take all this personally. I think 99% of us were all in the mindset that you are in one time or another. I can remember thinking I want 2000HP and do wheelies and peel tires off the rims....that was when I was 18 and had my first camaro. 14 years later, I'm on my 4th 3rd gen and my last. Bought my 1LE for 12k and dumped almost 25k into it. Took me 5 years to build my car. For what? 500+ RWHP and the ability to hold my own at the track.

Take it slow, plan a budget and what you want to do first, a timeline, etc. The guy from the Trucks show "Stacey" said it best, before you start accumulate all that you can to get the specific part of the project you want done first if you can amass all of it at once. That way you get something done and don't lose interest. 383's are nice with the right intake. A HSR intake will do very nicely with 200cc heads and even 215's although I only recommend 215's for forced induction or alot of nitrous...that's just my

two ways to achieve what you want: build a substandard motor and plumb a big shot of nitrous to it and pray it holds OR build a solid, well thought out streetable motor that will pull mid to low 11's on balls and all you'll need is a measly 100 shot to hit 10's RELIABLY if you're hell bent on using nitrous....as long as the rest of the drivetrain and suspension is up to it.

Okay first, my math was way off. boring 4.000 and the right stroker kit would put me at 402 ci. i have a 10-12k budget and would hopefully like to be finished around may or the beginning of June. I havn't decided what i'm going to do, i was going to bore and stroke, then add LS6 heads but people from ls1 said it wouldn't work, i'm going to post another thread later on about that. i found some patriot performance heads that say they fit 400+ci, but idk if they would work on a bored and stroked 350. the heads from PP where 225cc with 64cc combustion chamber. i decided if i got these heads i would need -15 dished pistons so my compression ratio would be around 10.5:1. But i don't know if the heads would fit with the 350 block and anything about my intake manifold i would need. some one you guys aren't being real helpful, i asked for help, not critisism. some on the other hand are, and i thank you. i havn't forgotten about my suspension, and have already found a company that will rebuild my th-700r4 tranny to handle the power. i just need help with figuring out the heads and intake manifold, im seriously confused. thanks

yeah you can say that again....4.00 inches is the stock bore of a 350... give me about 30 mins and ill post you some good heads and rotating assembly to look into

ok here we go this combo should make about 531hp @6500 rpm and 463ftlbs @ 5000rpm acording to the good ole desktop dyno program and can take a dose of juice if u need more power.... anyways its an 11:1 compression 383 built with
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...I&autoview=sku this scat forged rotating assembly
AFR 195CC SBC Competition 65cc Street head part no. 1095
Lunati Voodoo Cam Hyd. part no 60105LK
For intake id go with a Performer RPM AIR GAP and a nice 750 dp holley carb
plus all the supporting mods this is just to point you in a general direction and was picked out in about 20 min so u know it can get you started people feel free to criticize this and make changes....also i would recomend ditching the 700r4 and running a built th350 or th400....

okay thanks a million, i'll look into those parts. would that 531hp and 463 ft lbs be rear wheel or flywheel?

another "10secondhopeful" kid. You will need A LOT more then just a motor to go 10s.

It doesn't matter if you have 500hp or 1000hp if you cant put it to the ground.

You should shoot for AT LEAST 450 to the wheels, with a properly stalled automatic with a geared correctly 12 bolt or 9". Sticky tires and a whole lot of suspension.

Nitrous is by far the easiest way to get there as long as the motor can hold it just spray it after your 60'...

Look at spending at least a good 10-15gs

You need go seriously stiffen the chassis by 10s. Don't you need a rollcage?

You really need to read up, of course ls6 heads arn't going to bolt up the a genI sbc, they're completely different, there is just about nothing in commin between the gen I small block and a gen III (LSX) small block . It was already pointed out but a stock 350 bore is 4 inchs, typically the only reason you bore a block is to clean up the cylinder walls if needed, not to increase cubic inches or gain performance. Boring a block out typically makes it weaker and more prone to cracking and cooling system problems. As far as the intake goes, are you planning on running fuel injection or a carb?

Here is the main question you must answer so we can point you in the right direction. HOW DO YOU PLAN TO USE THIS CAR? Will it be a track only car that is trailered to the track? Will it be a daily driver that sees track time? Will this car ever be driven on the street? Will it need to pass emissions testing? I'm assuming you are tryin to build a track only car since a 10 second car typically has horrible street manners. Also make sure you budget in a new rear differential, a stock 7.5 inch 10 bolt will turn to scrap metal very quickly behind any kind of serious power. Another good question for you to answer so we can get started, WHAT ENGINE PLATFORM do you want to build this off of? If you are planning on an gen I sbc and looking for large cubic inches a 400 small block would be a good place to start since it is already 400ci in stock form. Add a stroker kit to that and you can come up with some serious inches from a small block based engine.
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Someone else who is more familiar with NHRA rules will be able to answer that for sure but I'm pretty sure that is a must if you want to legally run in the 10's on a drag strip. And yes, if he is serious about that kind of et he will be spending a significant amount of money on chassis and suspension mods, or he will be twisting the car to hell and destroying the body as well as not getting anywhere near his goal.

You have T-TOPS. Your car HAS NO FRAME. If you plan on running a factory 350 you need a wonderbar, k-member braces, and some other minor work just to stop the car from tearing itself in two!

Minimum for even a "hot" 350 would be SFC's, a Cage, new bushings all around, poly/spherical rod ended suspension parts.... You can drop 10k on the engine and have a really nice loud burnout machine, but you'll never stick it to the ground without a LOT of help. Not to mention without chassis stiffening your car will try to rip itself in half.

Also, I dunno about Raptor, but look up on them. A lot of tranny places are scam artists. One of the big recommended places around here is ProBuilt. I don't think I've heard a negative complaint.

I can't believe this thread has lasted so long haha.

My recommendation:

1.) Take your car, the way it is now, go to the track and see what it runs. Start to befriend some of the locals at the track. Start to LEARN, bit by bit, from the guys who are going fast.

2.) Add things to your car as you understand what they will do and you know that you need them. Take your time. Don't do it all at once unless you've done it before. Everyone at some point had to go piece by piece. You can't just go in your garage and build a 10 second car. It's not that easy.

Honestly, you'll kill yourself/someone else if you build a 10 second car and get behind the wheel.

That's good solid advice. There was a guy on here who built a high-dollar LS1 swap that put out a solid 500hp to the wheels, full drivetrain and suspension mods.... But he bought it as a roller with no engine, and the first day he went to drive it was after he finished it. He damn near totaled it gassing it around a corner while going to get gas.

Just a little thought but I'm hoping for the same but I have a plan. Right now my car still has the 305 TPI and 700R4 auto. Oh yeah, and the stock rear end, but I have some cash in my suspension. I'm going to finish my suspension before anything else. Then I'll put in a new rear end and put big brakes all around. After that comes my tranny and as of right now I'm considering a T56 because I like banging gears, personal preferance. Once it's all done I'm thinking either a 400ci small block or 350. But everything has to be done in steps. Research and questions are your best friends, especially here, everyone has been really cool about the questions I've had and had to tell me some things I didn't want to hear, but they've saved me lots of cash because they are knowledgeable. But I'll go ahead and say this, the suspension mods I've done so far (listed in the sig) have made my car feel so much better than when I first got it up, and to be honest I haven't put up my SFC's yet, they are in the closet. UMI is the s#!+. And good luck getting your car to the 10's, that's an awesome goal to have and a great car to do it in.