Aftermarket Product ReviewProvide questions and answers about aftermarket parts for the Third Generation F-Body.
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These look okay....but look like bolt in ones to me (IMO, weld in is much stronger)....try finding a set by UMI performance...I was very very impressed with how well built and excellent quality of UMI's sub-frames!! Here is a link to them.. http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=113
The price on their website is 199 but I found them online directly from umi for cheaper on a sale once. If you can afford these ones I would definetly get the UMI ones....plus start out at their main page and search all the other GREAT stuff they have for your car...I have bought many many things from them...my opinion though of course but I won't buy any other brand due to their engineering and quality. oh plus they have pictures of their products installed so you can see them...which is great also.
__________________ "Wide open 'till you see GOD, then brake!!"
'91 Camaro RS B4C Police Special Service Package
350 4-bolt, 10:0 w/moly rings, Holley Stealth Ram (ported), BBK 58mm, MSD ignition, Procomp heads 2.02 1.60 200cc (63hrs. port work), 30# venom injectors, Flowtech headers, full custom 3.5" mandrell ceramic exhaust w/ aerochamber, Comp cam XFI280HR (.576/.571 234/244), PCMforLESS.com tune, 58mm BBK, Custom TPI air lid, Custom RamAir, 1.6 stainless steel rollers, Custom 700-r4 2500 stall, Aluminum Drive line, 3.23 posi, Moser axles w/stud girdle cover, Spring works springs (lowered), UMI relocation brackets, panhard, LCAs, sub-frame connector, boxed A-arms, Poly bushings, Custom interior, Powdercoated & polished IROC wheels, Custom "Black Cherry" Paint", 4pt. roll bar, +++ more! "It's not the tires squealing, it the asphault SCREAMING!!"
Last edited by 91interceptorZ; 03-26-2009 at 03:40 PM.
Reason: +
Thanks for the responses guys. I was just thinking that it might be easier to bolt them up and then weld them in instead of holding them in place with a friend. I looked at other companies (spohn and umi) to and noticed they have the lateral support bars. But I am trying to budget my money in case anything breaks or goes wrong on my car. And everyone on thirdgen says the first thing to do is sub frame connectors. So now that I have saved up some cash sfc's are in my reach. My skills are limited so I'm leaning towards bolt in and then having my brother weld them.
Those look like the ones you have to cut the floor boards?!?! UMIs are stepped on the pass. side, these are straight. hmm maybe im going crazy i cant remember for sure.
__________________
'89 IROC - 370" LSX * Diamond Clutch * BUILT T-56 * FULL UMI Spohn Hotpart ES Tubular Suspension * HSW N2O & MicroEDGE * NANO
'98 Trans Am - Stock LS1 * Circle-D 4C Stall * Built 4l60E * SLP Lid * ORY * WELD RACING Prostar XP's * MT ET Streets * Boost to Come!
I have those... they also have the step up... They tuck up nicely under my ride, I've seen some that are very visible on cars... If you have GFX, no problems, but on Formulas and such, you won't want them hanging down, eye sore...
Can't be seen when standing next to it..
But sitting on the floor, barely...
The Shiny thing up front, Jet Hot Coated Hooker 2055 Y Pipe
I have a question. What are the best subframe connectors that you can bolt on?Before I actually go would have been welded on, I want to be able to pull them on first. I just completely redid my interior including power leather seats, and I just don't want to have to take him out right now.
Seats don't have to come out, just door sill and lift up the carpet... you don't want a fire...
The problem with the bolt on is that they biggen to wiggle / loosen & enlarge the holes they are bolted into and become less effective...
I was considering making my own set, do these help a lot with handiling?
i mainly don't want my uni-body to twist, but taking a curve one day is a goal of mine.
__________________ 84 Camaro Z-28, th-350 trans, posi, 4 bolt, not a stock motor, trac bars, edelbrock top to bottom, headers, 3in cowl, spare parts 84 so with a much milder 355 and 700-r4 (WANTED 2 buy or trade- taco bell dinner, wheels, high rise intake, and chevy 12 bolt, or 8.5in, 270-213-0199)
Yes, with all aspects of twisting and better handling... My mechanic even mentioned how the car handles better and has better traction with all the suspension upgrades... Every bit helps...
Looks like those connectors are for a tube chasis car. I mistakenly bought some similar to those and they wouldn't work on a street car...needed to have a "formed rear". Definately stick with sphon or umi on this one. Also, bolt ons can be welded later.
After reading these replies I am not going to get them. They do look straight meaning cutting the floor has to be done. Not worth buying them and being unsatisfied.
okay I get the message hahaha i think you guys are going to beat me up but from what i was reading I went ahead and bout the jegster frame ties..watch me get banned for not getting the UMI's...But I did go to TDS and bought everything you can get to repair my door from Lon. So I have supported one sponsor so far. Alright start the bashing...
If you get a good deal you get a good deal, no reason to hurt your budget if you don't have to.
i'm sure if you weld em in you will be sattisfied with any sfc's.
__________________ 84 Camaro Z-28, th-350 trans, posi, 4 bolt, not a stock motor, trac bars, edelbrock top to bottom, headers, 3in cowl, spare parts 84 so with a much milder 355 and 700-r4 (WANTED 2 buy or trade- taco bell dinner, wheels, high rise intake, and chevy 12 bolt, or 8.5in, 270-213-0199)
Yes I will definitely have them welded in right when I get them on my car. I can't wait to feel the differance. My brother got Sphon so I can see how his feel compared to mine and maybe I will make a comparison chart here.
Thanks for pushing me to get them though.
I have Alston bolt in ones on my 86 IROC. I had them welded in without bolting them in first. They are very well designed, you don't have to do any modifications to anything and they don't hang down to much.
Highly recommend them.
I have Alston bolt in ones on my 86 IROC. I had them welded in without bolting them in first. They are very well designed, you don't have to do any modifications to anything and they don't hang down to much.
Highly recommend them.
SW is said to have bad mounting points for their tubes to the plates, where as alston SFC's have a better way of mounting their tubular bar to a flat point. Search SW sfc's, there are pictures out there.
If you read his post on page 2..he's much happier. he sounds like he expected them to install themselves...
Mine went in with no problem. the pockets were at the right angle, no interference with anything. having said that..I wouldn't want to try and drill holes in the sub frame for them though..That would be a bitch of a job..
I bought mine right from Alston's because they are closer to me then Lon is.
Lon's customer service is excellent. I bought his door hinge repair kit and I was half expecting him to arrive at my house and install them for me.
I'm sure you can't go wrong from any of the ones mentioned, unless you are heavily considering weight or strength for racing and even then all the ones mentioned are probably good for that too. I'm not a racer so I couldn't elaborate on that, but I have the TDS ones installed now and my god what a difference.
Pick one to match your budget, and go for it.
__________________ --------------------------------86 Trans Am-------------------------------- Heart : Fast Burn 385, Edge Torque Converter, Hedman 68479 Headers Lungs : MagnaFlow 93441 Cat & MagnaFlow 15684 3" Cat Back Legs : KYB GR-2 shocks/struts, Wonderbar, Spohn 1 5/16" Front Sway Bar, Spohn A-Arms, Spohn Box Rear Lower Control Arms, Complete Moog bushings/links/joint replacement, Alston (from TDS) Subframe Connectors,
If you read his post on page 2..he's much happier. he sounds like he expected them to install themselves...
Mine went in with no problem. the pockets were at the right angle, no interference with anything. having said that..I wouldn't want to try and drill holes in the sub frame for them though..That would be a bitch of a job..
I bought mine right from Alston's because they are closer to me then Lon is.
Lon's customer service is excellent. I bought his door hinge repair kit and I was half expecting him to arrive at my house and install them for me.
look i gave u a pro and a con and then a place to buy.
if you dont like what he thinks - talk to him not me. im not his mother and i dont remember adopting him - so he, like you, is on his own. he is entitled to his opinion.
its called giving people a choice that is why i gave one of each.
and i dont think he was unreasonable in expecting them to bolt up right from the get go. what it did show is that his car was sagging a little and she probable should have put it up on 4 jacks to let it settle back in the original position and maybe it would have been easier.
or, IT COULD HAVE BEEN POOR WORKMANSHIP!
but i did not make that decision for anyone, i just posted it.
SW is said to have bad mounting points for their tubes to the plates, where as alston SFC's have a better way of mounting their tubular bar to a flat point. Search SW sfc's, there are pictures out there.
look i gave u a pro and a con and then a place to buy.
if you dont like what he thinks - talk to him not me. im not his mother and i dont remember adopting him - so he, like you, is on his own. he is entitled to his opinion.
its called giving people a choice that is why i gave one of each.
and i dont think he was unreasonable in expecting them to bolt up right from the get go. what it did show is that his car was sagging a little and she probable should have put it up on 4 jacks to let it settle back in the original position and maybe it would have been easier.
or, IT COULD HAVE BEEN POOR WORKMANSHIP!
but i did not make that decision for anyone, i just posted it.
Well I finally bolted the Jegster sub frame connectors in, and got them welded in the front, back, and on the rocker. What a difference!! I can tell why everyone always says make this #1 on the mods list. My car stays on the ground so much better, less noises and twisting, my t-tops don't creak when going around a turn, I can hammer the gas out of turns with confidence. A+++ For Sub frame connectors.