juan herrera

i have a 1992 RS with a 305 and a 700r4 auto. transmission and mild mods in it already.

i have an Edelbrock carb
Edelbrock torque 2 intake
and a msd distributor

what i want to know is whats the best way to get a little more power out of my 305 but wont burn a hole in my wallet?????

Seven_MPG

Get a Holley carb first off.Edelbrock is fine but you won't believe the difference a holley will make.Get a B&M shift kit in your trans,some good msd plug wires.You said you have an msd distributor,why stop there get an msd digital 6al ignition setup for it,better yet buy the 6al chevy hei kit and it comes with everything you need. for it.Amazing power for under 200 bucks.If you really are buying cheap then most of the time you will get cheap but it sounds like your headed in the right direction.Best of luck on your build.

J91

Nitrous 50-75 shot....

Apeiron

I couldn't recommend anything Seven_MPG suggested. J91 has the right idea for the quickest, most dramatic power increase. I'd start with tuning the combination you've got, add headers and exhaust, and get rid of the Torker 2.

Seven_MPG

So you recommend nitrous on a car with who knows what plugs and no ignition upgrades?Whats the point of throwing so much nitro and fuel to the cylinders if you can't ignite it efficiently.I do agree it would be the quickest but wouldn't you agree that doing several other inexpensive things to compliment the nitrous would make it more worth the while?

Apeiron

Plugs are a tune-up item, not a performance upgrade. You don't need ignition upgrades to run a 50-75 shot.

Don't pay too much attention to the marketing hype about "efficient ignition". The cylinder lights or it doesn't. Properly-working stock HEI works fine when you don't have insane cylinder pressures and high engine speeds.

Seven_MPG

I had a stock HEI and switched to an msd 6al ingnition with race wires and an msd streetfire dist and I could feel the difference in the seat.How can you say it either fires or it doesnt?If you don't have complete combustion you are not burning all your fuel and air.Timing makes a difference too,if it's not perfect you can eat .2 off your et.

Apeiron

If you saw gains from the 6Al that's great, but you had ignition issues that could have been resolved by other means. The spark only starts combustion, it's not the determinant of completeness. Timing is critical, but you don't need CD ignition to set timing.

Seven_MPG

To the original poster,I am sorry for jacking your thread.I gave my opinion and it was just that an opinion,take it or leave it.The moderator could have simply stated his opinion rather that starting an argument but I guess he needs to blow off steam and I'm the goat. I am not going to continue to argue in your thread.I'm sure more advice will come along in the wee hours.Little things do make a difference,remember that.

Apeiron

It depends how your ignition was behaving before. On stock engines with aged components the standard tune-up items are all that's required to improve ignition performance. The butt dyno is also notoriously inaccurate, so your actual gains could be substantially less than you imagine.

The MSD is a decent product for what it is, I've used lots of them. Not the new Digital 6, but the old analog boxes. It just doesn't provide significant gains over properly-working stock ignitions on street cars, and certainly not over an upgraded MSD distributor. When you're getting started, you can spend the money on things that will give you a full $200 of gains instead.

You'd have to earn a ban. Just pointing out the truth of my idiocy isn't nearly enough. Try to relax and not get so frustrated when you converse, though. It makes the place a lot more enjoyable.

Seven_MPG

I thought you'd be more rash.The respectfulness of your response earned mine in return. I never used the butt? dyno.The track tells me what I need.Believe it or not I have used and lost components due to what I felt in my seat.

Did you say truth of your idiocy? I thought you'd dispute that one.Is that an admission?
Just kidding by the way,pleased you have important input.It's late and we are all tired.

SinthetikIroc

iTrader: (1)

I just assumed it was the 11 years he has been a member

rusty vango

a cam and lifter kit from comp cams is something you should look into ,the right cam makes a lot of diffrence good luck

88TransAmGuy

iTrader: (3)

For just simple quick power,go to Auto Zone and get a Edelbrock 10 inch open element air breather. Thatll add a couple horse. If you want a project,add some headers

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

Nitrous would be cheapest power really. if you want a good amount. other than that you have to get headers and full exhaust, heads and camshaft are the biggest power makers in any engine.

Im glad im not a moderator i'd be known as Mr. Ban.

tekkitan

iTrader: (1)

I guess we should reform the tech articles that suggest updating the ignition...

Napster134

I dont know where I saw it but the reason i dont have none of those fancy ignition boxes was because I saw an article where they put a whole ignition system on a newer camaro or may have been a mustang but I think an oil change gave it a few more horses than the ignition system lol ...

But it was calculated on a dyno

It was something like that... I'll see if i can find it lol ....

Napster134

Found one... but this was not the one I was talking about... still looking for the oil change one lol

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...kit/index.html

tekkitan

iTrader: (1)

looks like they only did a cap and plugs.

also:

Jim has long complained of a stumble that occurred around the 4,000-rpm mark while at wide open throttle. The stumble disappeared with the installation of the new ignition. Jim's Mustang now pulls cleanly to it's 5,500-rpm redline.

Napster134

I need to find the other one... Dont see why they would bother with writing up an article of doing cap and plugs lol.... but I know I saw that article somewhere! ...

But I guess that would give more proof to the ignition systems only giving you a smoother running engine rather than a power increase.

Bad stubbing ignition to new ignition= 3hp lol

tekkitan

iTrader: (1)

The fact is that it made the engine run smoother in turn giving it more performance, however little it was. Not to mention adding more mods with this now smooth running engine will most likely net you better results in combination.

While the OP is looking for cheap HP, ignition is very important when dealing with a high performance vehicle. Not making sure your ignition system is top notch is almost in tune to running a marathon with a sprained ankle.

Napster134

I think we are on the same page!

I dont feel that you have to have the most priciest brand named ignition system out there. You just have to have a good and timed spark for your engine to run right and that is what I consider the best ignition...And well many times, a stock ignition can do just that.

The stock ignition being in great working order is perfectly adequate for pretty much any application we are running.

In regards to the fast and cheap upgrade, if your ignition is working the way it should then your good to go for a fast upgrade such as a small shot of nos, or whatever else is recommended.

Never ran nos but I have been thinking about going with a small 50-75 shot pretty soon. I just been wondering if with a shot that small, would you need to retard the timing a bit as well.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

As far as factory ignition systems go, the Chevy HEI is a pretty good system. Not perfect, but it's good. I'd only upgrade if you're wanting to push over 5000 RPM all the time. With any stock TBI or TPI car I dont think it would make a big difference. Invest in exhaust. Even that wont get you much.

These 80s v8s are too limited by cylinder heads and induction to be all that affected by simple bolt ons. The exhaust manifolds are god awful, but so are the heads on a TBI car- bolt ons cant fix awful intake ports and awful cams.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

so basically the ignition system isnt holding it back now unless the parts are used and worn. replace those parts but no need for fancy ignition boxes until you need them. With a higher HP engine, higher compression, more fuel, etc..

J91

The best improvement I ever did on my 305 was replace the stock distrributor w/ an MSD pro-billet. Did it make more overall power? Maybe a little yes, but the car ran way smoother and crisper throttle response, was definitely a huge improvement. Yes you could feel it under WOT . There is no way you can compare the stock setup to the MSD, they are better. And no my stock dizzy wasn't wornout....

J91

Amen to that!

FireDemonSiC

+1

Napster134

Just a last week I was having issues with my car and thought that the distributor had gone out (MSD Pro billet late model) I ended up going to o reillys and buying a brand new 'OEM' one and threw it in, checked the timing, set it at 10 and made sure the ECM was there as well.

It ran like crap! I was getting pinging at idle and everything... Now this story may sound as through I am contradicting myself although I was thinking:

When I first got the MSD distributor, I never bothered to read much of the instructions but what I do remember was that it had an adjustable timing curve type thing were you could adjust the timing and everything internally or something?

Not sure but since I have been tuning my car with the MSD distributor, I may have matched the tune with the built in spark curve. Only my guess though. I found it weird that once I put the MSD back in it started running great again.

That or the new replacement was no good.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

was your msd an electronic with computer controlled timing? because then the advance is controlled by that and really should have no effect on the timing of the engine. the computer does it all. i dunno?

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

Get better headers, y pipe, cat, and cat back exhaust. You wan cheap? Easy too? Get rid of your crappy air induction and switch to an open element air cleaner ($20-30). Look at the Ultamate TBI prt 1 and 2 under tech articals. Part one and two. Easy easy easy. Just do some research man. New air cleaner, plus dremel tooling of throttle body, and new exhaust= HP!!! At least enough to get you by.

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

Dynomax performance exhaust $75 rebate going on now! Plus $10 Coupon code.
Here is the press release which states purchases until 8/31/2011 can get the $75 rebate

http://www.dynomax.com/press_release...mail-in-rebate


and here is the link to streetsideauto.com for the system. Free shipping, $202 price minus $75 rebate = $127 to your door. I don't know why anyone would run a stock system any more. Don't beat the dead horse which is discussions about exahsut this and exhaust that. For $127 what do you have to lose?

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/dyno...at-back-17495/

you can try coupon code Q3102011 and you will get $10 more off the price. Remember, a rebate comes from Dynomax so you pay streetside the total and then get the rebate. So, if the $10 off works the total out of pocket could be $117. Quote from torque_is_good.

I personally got the one for $195.99 (part #17493). Paid $185.99 cause of the coupon, and when I get the rebate Debit car I will have only paid $110 out of pocket for a complete 2.5" cat back exhaust with super turbo muffler with dual split exit tail pipes. All hangers and mounting brackets are included. Perfect for your 3rdgen 2.8 or 5.0.

Rebate works with all Dynomax performance exhaust systems, but the $10 coupon code works only at www.streetsideauto.com.
New cat back exhaust will flow a bit better and sound better too.

williemcfly

I will be buying that exhaust next week!

Ron U.S.M.C.

juan herra, This has nothing to do with your engine but the best up grade I have done to my Camaro was the Eaton posi. and gear ratio. change from 2.73 to 3.42,with the L.P.W.suport cover. It was not cheep but should be something to really consider in your future.Made a huge difference.

UnderCover89TBI

iTrader: (25)

yup it makes your car accelerate quicker for sure but does not add 1 hp to it, but maybe lets a couple horsepower reach the wheels to full capacity. Deffinately wanna change the rear end gears at some point and time. 3.42's was so awesome from the 3.08's and 3.08's were so much better than the 2.73's.

skully-bones 13

get a good friend...some ski masks..and a toolbox...find a guy with a corvet Z06 or whatever it is...and pull the engine..i figure...ehh..ull spend under 100 on specialty tools and maybe 50 on a bodyguard..then the rest is for snacks.

zenish

it can be cheep.im running a 3.42 rear that came from an 80s v6 camaro.lots of the v6 camaros came with 3.42s.the v6 camaro rears are the same as the v8 camaros but with better gear ratios.i gave around 100 for mine.mine isn't posi though.i have one of the 99 dollar slp posi's that i may install eventually.the way the car runs now it won't spin a wheel anyway.it may be the 150000 on the odometer

redneckjoe

headers & gears will make the biggest difference, IMO.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

i guess i got lucky. my rs came from the factory with 3.42s, with posi and disc brakes.

ive never driven a 3rd gen with shorter gears, but i bet its not nearly as fun.

huskybruiserjr

easiest way to get power out of a 305
take it out and put in a 350

i got an engine and trans for 500 bucks

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Used LT1 cam for $30. New ZZ4 springs , locks and retainers for cheap insurance will run you about $60 from GMpartsdirect.

I had a 305 TBI orginally and went with headers, exhaust and 3.42 gears then added the cam. Pretty quick for what it was.

kmcn47

and it sucks, that and all the smog equipment

paul_huryk

The biggest improvement you can make is a set of headers, 3" cat and a 3" cat back - it will give you at least 30hp over the stock exhaust.

I will also suggest that you invest in an A/F gauge to tune your carb. A lot of people assume that their carb is adjusted close to optimal, but in 95% of the cases, a car can pick up power and mpg along with a decrease in emissions with just adjusting the carb to the optimal A/F ratio.

ZZ3 Z28

What he said...