Aftermarket Product ReviewProvide questions and answers about aftermarket parts for the Third Generation F-Body.
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i have a 91 z-28 conv, auto and installed a scroggin 350 vortec tpi engine. i had a chip burned but am not to pleased with it.
i live in north carolina, goldsboro to be exact and would appreciate it if you could tell me who did your dyno test and tune and about what the cost is. a phone number would be appreciated also.
HELP! the trans was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago. it shifted very firm with the 305. when the engine (350) was installed i had a 2500 stall put in too. since then the trans shifts fine at low rpms but at wot it will not shift below about 7grand!! according to my tach. there is no firmness to the shifts either.
i had a kit installed to lower the shift points but to no avail. at low rpms fine, but wot problem. the guy that did the trans checked the detent but found no problems. IDEAS anyone????????????
Sorry that I havn't been around much. I've been interviewing for a new job (in Jesup, GA), so I've been busy getting ready to change jobs and move to Jesup. There is a dragstip very close to Jesup (in Hinesville), but I don't know anything about it.
Warbird, I'm sticking with chip "Crews6." It dynoed the best, and puts great numbers up on the Tech1. I had to move my fuel pressure up to 53# (from 51#) to get my BLMs where they needed to be, but Crews6 is the chip for my car. Crews7 and 8 don't idle very well, as Dean was experimenting with fuel and timing in the lower rpms.
Sean & slohand, I use a GM Tech1 for "diagnotics", but Dean and Street & Performance electronics burns my chips for me. His e-mail is airdeano@swbell.net (I forget what his phone # is). He's a great guy, and will work with you to get your car right. However, you will need a scan tool of sorts to give him data for your chips (stuff like TPS volts, MAF gps, BLM, Fuel Integrator, knock signals, etc.). I have been wanting to buy a new scan tool, but I don't know what it will be yet.
Sorry, but I can be of "no help" with your trans. issues. That is one of my (many) weak areas.
I got my 9 bolt rear end shimmed up (tightened), and I'll go to the track this Thursday or Saturady (weather dependent). I'll let you know how it goes.
Chevyboy - you ran a 12.7 with or with-out Nitrous? What size shot are you spraying? Who tuned your PROM? You are probably running too much timing and not enough fuel if it runs like that on the bottle.
Just curious
Mike (1bad91Z)
__________________ 1991 Z-28 (Black - Hardtop) 355ci TPI/SLP, Ported Vortec heads, Comp XR276HR-12, Hooker 2210 Longtubes / custom 3" Y-pipe with 3 1/2" mufflex cat-back, Borg Warner T-56, PROM tuned by me!, 3.73's, Hotchkis suspension, custom high-flow lid and ram-air, ALL the bolt-ons, custom Boyd Coddington "1bad91Z" Billet Wheels.
Mike - I'd agree. The juice doesn't like timing. - I'd also check everything in the system over to make sure both the air and the fuel are spraying. The crap can blow a motor fast if it's not right...
Where are your nitrous jets located. If they are next to the injectors and your ignition is not up to snuff you could be blowin out the flame for lack of a better word.
Went racing on Easter sunday. and clipped off a 12.06 @ 112.5 with a 1.64 60er.
I had a really good chance of nabbing an 11.9xx but decided to monkey with the timing on the last run and went 12.21. eh well.. the next day out i wiped out the cheaters, soo no racing till i get some new rims and tires, instead of those 10 dollar centerlines, and handmedown, mickey thompson sportsman pro's of the 26x9.5x16 variety.
so the air being reasonable, i decided to give it a go in pure street form, ... ie just about strait 93 octane in it, through the exhaust, and on the 235-60-15 V rated street tires.
got two runs. the second one was a
12.42 @ 111.61, rolling into the throttle, didn't hit wot till second gear. i doubt if i'll ever make another street tire pass with it on them lil tires, but it was interesting... with practice i could certainly shave a few 1/10's off... open the exhaust who knows... but it's just tooo spookey waiting for them lil street meats to break loose at the tope end of the track.
that 12.71 was on the motor alone....waddya think....I think I'm a little slow to be honest with you. I'll have more times in the next week or so when the car is labeled "good to go"
Hows the car Mike? Any new times? I blew the collector gaskets on mine last sunday (sounds all red-necky now)! Hopefully the new crushable aluminum one's will last longer than the cheap Mr. Gasket paper crap! As soon as I get my new Fluidamper balancer and an Imperial Driveline driveshaft, it's dyno time for me. Wish me luck!
Mike (1bad91Z)
__________________ 1991 Z-28 (Black - Hardtop) 355ci TPI/SLP, Ported Vortec heads, Comp XR276HR-12, Hooker 2210 Longtubes / custom 3" Y-pipe with 3 1/2" mufflex cat-back, Borg Warner T-56, PROM tuned by me!, 3.73's, Hotchkis suspension, custom high-flow lid and ram-air, ALL the bolt-ons, custom Boyd Coddington "1bad91Z" Billet Wheels.
1986 camaro - 10.5 outlaw/Outlaw 632
1989 lead sled still awating its transformation
- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?
71 4 bolt main. decked, and .030 over. 4130 forged eagle crank, polished X rods, Trw forged flattops with vavle reliefs. 4.5 cc variety if memory serves me. a .002 posative deck hieght on the piston. CR around 10.7:1
062 vortecs, decked a bit, bowl work, and a vavle job. performer rpm intake, and a 1" open spacer. 780 vac sec 3130 holley
Comp XE 274 hydraulic, flat tappet cam. 1.5 crane race golds. stock vavles, and good ole fashion Z28 springs.
Slp 1 3/4 " no air headers.
700R new gearsets, sprags, rollers, and reaction sun. bands clutchs, front pump, and whatnot. Transgo kit, .5 booster, and a 3300 stall act 9.5" converter.
__________________ GN predator
Last edited by Pony Killer; 04-30-2003 at 10:39 AM.
Yup NA. was about half and half 104 octan, and half 93 octane.
on 26x9.5x16 mickey thompson sportsman pro's, which... are no more.
and.. on 3.73's which weren't short enough.. it really needs 4.1's with those 26's.
next step is 28x10.5x15 slicks, and 4.56's
no more halfassin. and then maybe i'll get around to really tuning the carb..
it'll prolly see dyno time before it hits the track again.
debating whether to make a blast or two like that then put the roll cage in, or do it before...
also depends on what kind or rear i can lay my grubby paws on before then.. i'd like to get a 12 bolt moser.. but that means.. new torque arm, .... soooo we shall see. that part may have to wait... if that's the case, i'll get C-clip eliminators and pray nightly for the gears.. although footbraking it isn't ruthless on them.
__________________ GN predator
Last edited by Pony Killer; 05-01-2003 at 11:20 PM.
I just started a new job three weeks ago, and I am working out of town (near Brunswick, GA). I havn't touched my car in the last month. We won't be settled in the new house until the first or second week of June. So I won't be able to play with the car again until then. Plus, I don't have access to a computer in my current temporary apartment, so I'll kind of be out of touch for a few more weeks.
- Pony Killer - make sure that 3310 is pulling the secondaries open. That could be your NOS issue, and under power NA. Mine wasn't opening even at 6,800 WOT. I built a mount and put a micro-switch on the secondaries. Turns on a little light anytime they're open over 1/2 blade, light never came on. I used a combination of parts and hand built a mechanical secondary, single pump 650. I built custom progressive linkage that doesn't even start the secondaries open until over 3/4 primary, and pretty well just snapps it open. It was night and days difference driving. Plus, you only get secondaries if you really want to, and fuel economy is still good.(well, as good as a holley gets) - that could easily be you power probs, and your nitrous issues. I'd almost bet on it.
Mike, Hi. I am curious. What kind of spark plugs are you running? I have the vortec heads and I'm running rapid fire spark plugs. My friend told me to buy a set of spark plugs for a 96 Chevy Pick up. He told me they would fit right in and they would work better than what I have now? Right now the car is pulling but missing at 3500 RPM's. I don't know what the problem is. I think its electrical. My friend says its my 2000 stall or my rear end. I'm supposed to be running 335 horses but I don't feel them. Thanks.
hey shagwell... i don't think i'm having a problem with my secondaries not opening.
as far as plugs go, delco, r 43-45 tls's work just fine..
although i always get the letters mixed up... maybe it's lts's
you want the 4 which is hte code for the thread, the 3-5 the heat range, and the last letters are the length code and tip..
you want a long reach, tapered, with an extended tip.
basically if you find the platinum plugs for the truck.. you just match the tip up with the propper heat range.
Pony Killer - Not to say your wrong, but I'd check for 100%. I was pretty sure mine were too, because the car had ungodly power for what I thought it would, then I found out they weren't opening. Also, what rpm are you spraying at?
madmanups - I'd agree w/ Pony Killer. AC Delco plugs. I run the rapid fires, but it all works. I also like the NGK's, which are a really good plug, thing is isf you foul them out once, they never really come back. Running a carb, crap happens from time to time. Also, a stall converter, nor rear end can cause a miss in the middle of an engine's power band. - I to would be checking electrical.
later, justin
__________________ Jp Shawgo
1986 camaro - 10.5 outlaw/Outlaw 632
1989 lead sled still awating its transformation
- If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?
when i get it running again... actually when i take it to dyno it, i'll make 100%sure the rear blades are opening.
As far as spraying it... I'm not. haven't, and at this rate probably won't till next year.
the bests of 12.06 @ 112.5 on the cheaters, and open exhaust; and 12.42 on the streets, and closed exhaust.... are all without spray, the 12.0's i've run were with a 50/50 93 octane mix with 104 unleaded, and the two street tire passes, the 12.42 @111.6 being the best was on strait 93 octane, and through the exhaust.
The plug I mentioned above is a stock replacement for a 1991 L98 350 in the NGK brand. I've tried all kinds of plugs (Accel header short plugs, AC Delco plain and rapid fires, Ngk UR5, autolites, etc....... (all plugs are NON-platinum). And out of all, the NGK-R UR4's performed the best and looked the best when I took them out to check them.
Don't run platinum plugs with MSD ignition (per MSD), if you do, you will melt the platinum right of the plug and right onto your piston.
Mike
__________________ 1991 Z-28 (Black - Hardtop) 355ci TPI/SLP, Ported Vortec heads, Comp XR276HR-12, Hooker 2210 Longtubes / custom 3" Y-pipe with 3 1/2" mufflex cat-back, Borg Warner T-56, PROM tuned by me!, 3.73's, Hotchkis suspension, custom high-flow lid and ram-air, ALL the bolt-ons, custom Boyd Coddington "1bad91Z" Billet Wheels.
To those who want further info just check out www.ngk.com. That site has a ton of tech info and other related tips for choosing the right plugs for your application. They explain how to choose the proper heat range along with good explanations about the different materials used in plug tips. When searching for Vortec plugs just enter vehicle info for a 96 C1500 PICKUP with L31 engine.
Well the main point you wanna look at is the fact your plugs are on the short side right now for what the head needs. If I were you I would run the proper length reach with the stock heat range and then change heat ranges from that point depending on the tale the plugs themselves tell after some mileage is put on the car when it is properly tuned. The heat range on a stock replacement the ,TR55, is 5. For NGK as the designation number goes down the heat range goes up. I will be starting my 10.3:1 383 for the first time this weekend and am starting at 6 for my heat range. Going a bit cooler with the 6 as I am unwilling to risk pre-ignition on the new motor, will settle down to a 5 if the plugs foul but I doubt they will. Generally high power motors create enough heat in the chambers as to the allowance of a cooler plug. Gap is a whole new discussion. With an MSD setup and 10-10.5:1 I would start your gap at about .050 and work up and down from there in .005 increments.
It might take a couple of sets of plugs to get the most out of the motor. I will be fooling around to find the correct plug with just the standard NGK V-Power line and then running the Iridium IX line once I get it nailed as the Iridium plugs are 9$ each but they have some seriously low power requirements and awesome spark quench.
Yea. I called Scoggin Dicky today and the guy told me that I should try an R44 LTS spark plug. It's a delco plug. Hopefully this will help me fix my problem with the car missing at 3500. Do you guys think that running an L98 plug will cause my car to miss? I'm running Vortec heads.
A poor tune up could make your car miss. It may or may not be the plugs. Are the wires good? Check resistance on the wires to manufactures spec per foot. How about the cap and rotor? You always want to run a cap and rotor with brass niples not the steel stock style.
I like NGK products over the rest. I would suggest the same to you as for 1bad91Z, the TR55 with about .050 gap.
Raising the heat range on a plug without a good baseline is often a step in the wrong direction it can cause pre-ignition. Classic example: Corvettes ran one heat range cooler than an F-body BC of the fact that they had smaller combustion chambers. You have 10:1 and a healthy cam there is no need to nurse your chamber temps any higher with a hot plug especially with 64cc chambers!!! I am starting at 6 BC of the fact that 383s build much greater cylnder pressure and heat along with that pressure and highly doubt I will even need to run a 5.
Plugs are cheap but pre-ignition can cost a bunch. I f owned your motor I would probably start at 6 just to be safe but thats just me, 5 would be a min start point in my opinion. The only time you want to make a move to a hotter plug is if you are fouling the plugs in your current heat range, also running rich and fouling plugs is no reason to run a hotter plug, at that point fueling needs to be fixed first.
Mark
Last edited by OMINOUS_87; 05-28-2003 at 06:56 PM.
Yea, I think I'm gonna try the TR55's first. Thats just strange, because the car ran like crap with the short reach UR5's, but it run's great with the short reach UR-4's!
Mike Crews - what plugs do you run?
Mike (1bad91Z)
__________________ 1991 Z-28 (Black - Hardtop) 355ci TPI/SLP, Ported Vortec heads, Comp XR276HR-12, Hooker 2210 Longtubes / custom 3" Y-pipe with 3 1/2" mufflex cat-back, Borg Warner T-56, PROM tuned by me!, 3.73's, Hotchkis suspension, custom high-flow lid and ram-air, ALL the bolt-ons, custom Boyd Coddington "1bad91Z" Billet Wheels.
So I tried the a set of R44 LTS plugs and my problem presist. The car starts better, runs harder, but still misses with the new plugs. Damnit, I wanted them to fix the problem with the motor missing at 3500. Oh wells, maybe its the wires. Yea, I don't know if the rotor and distributor cap are have brass or steal. I'll look into it. I have been told that it could be my rearend(3.23's) or my stall converter (2000). I still think its electrical. Any suggestions for new wires? I have an MSD box, but its not on the car. If I get some nice wires I'll put the MSD on. My neighbor told me that would fix the problem. Who knows.
madmanups - gears or converter will not cause the engine to miss fire. What distributor are you running?Hei? If so, it could easily be the module. 3500 is right about where the module switches to the 'high side". I too would say it's electrical. An MSD box will help, but a motor shouldn't miss just because it doesn't have one...
Hey I hate to barge into your thred with my pics but since this is the most popular Vortec thread ever my content is kinda relative, thanks for understanding. Anyway as some of yall might know I have been putting together a really nasty 383. Comp XR276HR, E-Tec 170s, SDPC base, Superram, heads and intake massively ported, etc...
Here is a big heads up for those who follow this thread and are thinking of doing either an SDPC base with a SR or with SLP runners. Neither will fit, they will both have to be clearanced.
1bad91z had to do slight clearncing to get the SLP runners to fit, I had to do massive clearancing to get the SR to fit. All these problems are due to the repositioning of the intake bolts on the Vortec type bases, the bolts now sit right under the runners.
Below are a few eye candy shots of my 383 and Vigilante.
Yea, like OMINOUS_87 said, it's a pain in the ***! I did have to clearance the bottom portions of the SLP runners to make them fit. I also had to drill out the runner's bolt holes just a hair bigger and I had to cut 1 bolt down about 1/4 in. If I had to do it all over again, I would have done the LT-4 intake swap. Modify it like you would an LT-1 intake and the LT-4 will work with Vortec heads!
Since I'm all over this Topic, here's a pic of mine!
Hey Mike Crews - where ya been hiding? How's the car coming along?
Mike (1bad91Z)
__________________ 1991 Z-28 (Black - Hardtop) 355ci TPI/SLP, Ported Vortec heads, Comp XR276HR-12, Hooker 2210 Longtubes / custom 3" Y-pipe with 3 1/2" mufflex cat-back, Borg Warner T-56, PROM tuned by me!, 3.73's, Hotchkis suspension, custom high-flow lid and ram-air, ALL the bolt-ons, custom Boyd Coddington "1bad91Z" Billet Wheels.
I'm already there! And thats with very little PROM tuning and dinky little 3.23 gears mated to the six-speed!
Gtech: 11.8 @ 112
Actual track times are probably closer to 12.2's
But, I think with 3.73's, stickies, suspension work, and some more PROM tuning, 11's will be no problem!
Mike (1bad91Z)
__________________ 1991 Z-28 (Black - Hardtop) 355ci TPI/SLP, Ported Vortec heads, Comp XR276HR-12, Hooker 2210 Longtubes / custom 3" Y-pipe with 3 1/2" mufflex cat-back, Borg Warner T-56, PROM tuned by me!, 3.73's, Hotchkis suspension, custom high-flow lid and ram-air, ALL the bolt-ons, custom Boyd Coddington "1bad91Z" Billet Wheels.
Gotta show the slip bro! Take that thing to the track for a baseline run at least, it would be interesting to see what you put down with the car in its current state of buildup, if no hook at least you could get a mph. Also Mike and Mike what are you track elevations? Here in Phoenix we sit at 1300ft above sea level.
