383 Vortec TPI Dyno Results (and questions) - Page 12 - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Mike Crews · 08-24-2003, 07:45 AM

Welllllllllll.....look who's back!!!!

Hey Guys, what's up. Sorry that I've been gone so long. The new job that I took was vacant for 14 months, so I've been working a $%&*load of hours the last three months, plus buying a house, selling a house, wife finding a new job, etc., etc. We're finally kind of settled in now, so I can get back to fiddling with my car. I haven't driven it 100 miles in the last 4 months. There a several tracks in my new local area (Jesup GA - near Brunswick, GA), but they are all 1/8 mile. Plus, I don't think that shimming my rear end (twice) solved my slippin' posi issue. I may have to put in a new posi unit.

Listen guys, I was considering swapping over to a set of Fast Burn heads (just because). Do you thinK that would help me, or do the vortecs flow close enough to the Fast Burns that I wouldn't gain much? Is anybody out there running a LTR setup and Fast Burn heads? I was also kind of considering putting a Miniram III intake on my existing vortecs (if that would work). I'm just looking for something to do with the car to give it some more n/a power.

Thanks guys, sorry again that I've been out of the loop for so long. It's good to be back.

Later - Mike..........

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!

Mike Crews · 08-24-2003, 08:28 AM

Hi Again Guys,

I just finished reading all the latest info on the post - Good Stuff!!

Somebody asked about plugs. I am using Rapid fire #8s, and have been ever since I started the motor up. I've used those only beacuse that's what several of the vortec headed motors in the GMPP book used when I built my motor. They seem to have worked well so far. Plus, I had good luck with the RFs (#5) in my ZR1. I also considered the AC MR43 LTS or R44 LTS plugs, but I just haven't tried them yet.

It sounds like everyone's car is coming around strong, that's excellent. We can all learn from each other's successes

and mistakes

. I'm looking forward to getting back in the hunt for my 11 second, n/a, 20mpg, everday driver. I've already "hurt several feelings" on the local streets since I moved down here (unsuspecting Z28 SS, brand new yellow Z06 Corvette, several pickups with loud stereos/nice wheels/and N2O).

Later - Mike...

OMINOUS_87 · 08-24-2003, 11:24 AM

Welcome back Mike!!!

You picked a perfect time to get things rolling again!

Both myself and 1bad91z have our combos on the road and are in the process of getting everything dialed in. Shouldnt be long before we are posting track times and dyno results. Its been hotter then hell here in Phoenix, we hit 110* every damn day all summer so far, its killin me, I barely got 50 miles on the car. But good *** the thing pulls hard, I mean even in 4th with the Vigi locked up the damn car picks up speed efforlessly. In the other 3 gears dropping the pedal and its like the car is on ice. I also dropped the Hooker catback last week, traded it for an LS1 shaft and some cash, so I am rolling open headers right now, Hedman shorties. Wednesday I will be putting the car up again for a bit as I install my new exhaust, Hooker coated 2210s and a Mufflex 3.5" back.

Hard to say what you should do about the heads and intake, after just swapping in a new cam. Bigger heads and a Miniram are gonna need a bigger cam to provide any type of real gain, IMO. Anyway, my vote is for a heavy porting job on your base topped off with a Superram plenum runner combo, just like me

.

Well its only a matter of time now till everyone else chimes in!

Peace

Mike Crews · 08-24-2003, 02:01 PM

Hey Ominous 87,

Actually when I swaped the cam, I made my decision knowing that I might soon swap intakes or heads. The 269 cam is an "acceptable" cam for many different combinations, although obviously not "optimal" for all combinations. So, I believe that I have some flexibility there. My preference would be to keep the LTR setup (I just love the way it looks, and it is period correct for the car), and go with some Fast Burns, because they match my vortec TPI intake. I also considered having my existing heads extrude honed to open them up a bit, but I don't know if that would screw up the flow characteristics of the vortec heads or not. Really I'm just thinking out loud right now, in order to get a little feedback from you guys on the issue.

Thanks again. Later - Mike.....

OMINOUS_87 · 08-24-2003, 07:41 PM

Well before you do anything bring that 11 sec LTR pass home! The LTR combo in general is overdue for an 11 sec pass for public display on these boards, and you are the front runner.

Here is some interesting resding.

http://lt1intake.com/PHR2003AUG.htm

REDZ28 · 08-25-2003, 02:32 AM

If you keep the LTR setup the fast burns will be way to big.!!

1bad91Z · 08-25-2003, 01:08 PM

MIke, whats up man! Glad to hear you're still kickin'!

The fast-burn's flow the same as vortecs on the intake side, but flow better on the exhaust side. Now if you port the fast-burns, you'll have a way better head than what you got now. Plus the fast-burns are 62cc, so it will bump your compression up by .2:1.

The mini-ram III will work with your vortecs and will probably get you into the 11's, but more PROM tuning will be required. Slapping on a set of ported fast-burns with using the LTR TPI setup will probably get you into the 11's as well, but shouldn't kill as much torque as the mini-ram will.

Thats a hard toss up! Now a set of ported fast-burns and the mini-ram III would be BADASS!

However, I'm like you in the fact that when you pop my hood, it looks period correct. I like the look the LTR TPI, thats why I stayed with it. Nobody exepects a Tuned port motor to run as good as our's do!

Mike (1bad91Z)

slp_firehawk · 08-25-2003, 07:31 PM

what do you guys think about the TPIS zz409 cam in a NA 383? i bought the proaction lightning heads 180 cc, but i'm going to return them for the bigger 200cc. i know they aren't vortecs but i have been following this post for a long time and you guys definately seem like you know what you're talking about...but anyways, i was thinking about breaking in the motor with leaving the LTR tpi setup (semi siamesed slp runners, ported upper, stock, but ported base) is that cam going to be way too big for the LTR setup? and how about later on i'm thinking of going with a miniram? what do you guys think?

thanks,

Jason

Mike Crews · 08-25-2003, 07:36 PM

What about the 210 cc intake runners on the Fast Burns? Is that too big (REDZ28)? I've read that the Fast Burns are designed with so that you can get the larger intake runner, but still keep your velocity up.

Anybody with any extrude hone experience on vortecs?

Oh yea, Ominous, very interesting article. I might actually go out and pick up the mag.

Thanks - Mike.......

Mike Crews · 08-27-2003, 07:19 PM

slp firehawk,

I don't have any personal experience with the ZZ409, but when I was going through the process of choosing my new cam, I did talk to TPIS, and they recommended the ZZ409 for my 383 motor. Just as a side note, LPE recommended the 219/219 cam. However, I decided that for my LTR setup the ZZ409 226/226 @ .050 was way too big (on the intake), and also that the vortec heads demanded a split profile/duration cam (so, no 219/219 cam). For a miniram, I'm sure that the ZZ409 would be a great cam, as long as your heads flowed well enough on the exhaust for a single profile cam. I have done some reading (Ray T. Bohacz, GMHTP, July 2000) that states the "optimum" cam (in his opinion) for a miniram (or LT1) 383 is 222/226 @ .050, but I'm sure that TPIS would recommend the 226/226 ZZ409. However, TPIS also usually recommends/assumes AFR heads or ported L98 heads, both of which are well suited for a single pofile cam (based on the intake/exhaust flow ratios for each). I don't know if that helps any, but that's what I know/think.

Later - Mike.......

86 IROC · 08-27-2003, 07:42 PM

Quote:

I have done some reading (Ray T. Bohacz, GMHTP, July 2000) that states the "optimum" cam (in his opinion) for a miniram (or LT1) 383 is 222/226 @ .050,

No offense to Mr. Bohacz, but That cam sounds like a good cam for a 350. TPIS originally reccomended a ZZ9 for my car, that was a damned joke. I am much happier with my CC306. I've read all the theory, speculation, etc about single vs. split pattern cams... w/o a back to back dyno comparision of my personal motor - it matters very little to me. 11SEC91Z runs a ZZX cam in his Mini Ram/AFR/383 combo, somewhat similar specs to my CC306, but single pattern. From driving impressions... I highly doubt I am giving up any power running the camshaft I have. The car has all kinds of power from the very bottom of the tach and power well past the point in which it burys the stock tach. I assure you that a "major" loss of TQ is pure

Would a LTR set up make more TQ? Sure... at the expense of HP. It's all a matter of preferance, and to each is own.

In closing, I would like to see you run your current set up as is to verify the results of the 269XR. You have a very well-mannered combo that makes good power. (I won't even kid you and tell you my car is even slightly mild mannered, it pounds the ground and has a major attitude problem

) I've followed this thread because it has been a good read 90% of the time, and some great discussions have come about. Thank you for posting your dyno #'s, progress, track times, etc.

camarojoe · 08-27-2003, 11:45 PM

Good to see you back, Mike. Even though your car hasn't seen much action lately, I'd say it still runs like a scolded dog if you're picking on new Z06's and showing them tail lights.

The one thing I wanted to say is that I'm surprised on the what the GMHTP editor said about the optimum cam dur. for a 383/MR combo. 222/226 is way too small for any 383/MR car. Of course it all depends on who's opinion of what optimal is. I talked to TEAirflow and they told me that even the 219 cam was way to small for a 383 with my intake (superram). It's not that it dosn't run, there's a guy that just ran 11's with the 219/383 setup and buckeyeroc's right there with a 350. The guys at TEA more or less told me that even with the superram that I should go with a cam with 230-240 dur. on the exhaust side. This is just one opinion, but Brian and Brett are pretty smart guys, hence the cam in my sig.

Pony Killer · 08-29-2003, 10:37 AM

good to see you back mike... i'm waiting with great anticipation to see how yours runs with the new cam.

I should have mine back down the track my mid september.

I got a roll bar, had it installed, go a 5pnt harness for it, picked up some stickes for it. and a pair of lakewood drag struts..
just gotta get off my duff and put the goodies in.

Mike Crews · 09-01-2003, 08:29 AM

I have to replace the posi unit in my car - it's shot. I've shimmed it twice over the last few years, but it's just worn out and slipping like crazy. That's really no surprise to me, as it's the orignal rear end with 130k miles on it. I'm probably just going to buy a new posi unit (from 9bolt.com), and stick with my 3.27 gear. That seems to be the most cost effective way for me to go - unless someone knows of a better approach. How much is a "bolt in" 12 bolt rear for my car (or is the 9bolt just fine for my application)? What kind of rear ends are you guys running?

I'm sure that it will be a month or two before I get around to this rear end. I have so little time available lately. I'll make sure to have it done as the fall weather rolls around so I can get some passes at the track with the cooler air.

camarojoe · 09-01-2003, 08:27 PM

I think a good 12-bolt rear end from Strange or Moser that bolts in out cars can range from about 1800 to 2500, depending on what differential and axel options you get. Somebody else that's purchased one would no more obviously, but I know a good near-bulletproof rear end is 2g's plus. The 9-bolt rearend are strong when setup right, but the parts are somewhat expensive and if you plan on a lot more power in the future a 12 bolt is the best way to go. I think you may be able to get a Ford 9-inch setup installed for around the price of a new 12-bolt and they're even a little stronger, but they are from Ford afterall, so screw that!

OMINOUS_87 · 09-02-2003, 05:33 PM

Ahh yes, the age old question of how far can I push the factory rear axle. From what I have read the 9-bolt is superior to the 7.5" 10-bolt when beefed up but neither are in the league of a 12-bolt or 9-inch ford. I originally had a 9-bolt and it opened up at 65000 miles. This was 6 years ago or so and roughly 1 year before I put the car up into storage. Back then as high school kid 9-bolt parts were so expensive I couldnt afford to rebuild it with a posi and gear. So I picked up a 1 legger 10-bolt and had it built. The housing was gutted and treated to an Auburn Pro Posi and Richmond gear set, 3.73. All other misc parts were replaced as well with the rebuild. Not knowing a whole hell of alot then I kept the stock 26 spline axles. Recently though the axle tubes have been fully welded and I run an Ultimate girdle as well.

I am betting that will hold my motor NA for awhile without issue. I will be very concerned though when I decide to start experimenting with N2O. I am also hoping for the best when I throw ET Streets out back at the track.

Its really hard to say how far either of the factory rear ends can be pushed. A 12-bolt or 9-inch however can be built to take anything you can put down to the tires, beefy as all hell and proven. Thing is though you are going to pay for that type of insurance, at least figure on 2000$ min.

1bad91Z · 09-02-2003, 06:23 PM

Yep. I've seen stock LS-1 car's snap 10 bolt's like butter.

So, I'm in the saving money boat as well for my Moser 12 bolt.

When I finally take it upto the track, I want to launch at 3,500 - 4,000 rpms on slicks with-out having to worry!

Pony Killer · 09-03-2003, 08:54 PM

I'll be down testing the strength of my Ten bolt probalby the end of next week.

Got the roll bar in, the Lakewood drag struts, the rear weld draglites., and new slicks..... still have to put the 5 point harness in.

Be the first set of passes with the new exhaust setup, the struts, stickies.... we'll see how she does.

ran it one night on the lil tiny 235/60/15 street tires two weeks ago... the only thing i found out.. was the too rich jetting is now too lean. and you can't find the bottom of the throttle mid second gear on them tires. still pulled off a couple of 12.5's @ 113.

The next round of parts destruction begins in earnest soon.

Pony Killer · 09-12-2003, 10:45 AM

I like running on those 28x10.5x15 mickey thompson ET drags. the car is very stable..

but.. i'm having trouble cutting sub 1.7 60'ers with em. They bite just fine.. finally getting the hang of them so they don't spin out of the hole.. I just don't have enough gear it's lazy out of the hole, and lazy up top end.

That being said.. the best timeslip from tuesday was
1.73 .......................60
5.020.....................330
7.724@90.09..........1/8
10.026....................990
12.096@112.99......1/4

Best mph the car's ever pulled.

Won't be long now till it's in the elevens.. weather permitting

1bad91Z · 09-12-2003, 11:37 AM

Ponykiller - whats your combo again?

OMINOUS_87 · 09-12-2003, 11:45 AM

Pony Killer

Go on a diet or pull some interior parts for the next runs, you should then be able to run 11's all day, LOL!!

Great time though man. Your right it is the tire that is giving you the consistency right now. The bigger they are the better they hook. 28" seems though that it could be just a bit large for your setup with a 3.73 but only by a hair or 2, what rpm are you going through the traps at?

I plan to mount some 27" ET Streets once the cash presents itself and the go flogging at the track.

Pony Killer · 09-12-2003, 02:02 PM

well as far as the interior goes... there isn't much there..

the car is mostly gutted after the roll bar got put in. the only plastic left is the stuff in the back... and the dashboard... the console's gone. all the heating HVAC **** is long gone.

just gonna take a bit of tuning, i'm still feeling the slicks out.. i'm running about 16-17 psi on em now with no tubes.

it do need gears.. i'm crossing around 5600.. i need to be crossing around 6200 or a bit higher. the only thing really helping it out of the hole is that deep 700R 1st gear.

The engine's ... 10.7 :1 compression. Vortec heads, bowl work, valve job, stock valves, performer rpm intake, 1" spacer, 780 vac sec holley, comp XE 274 cam. 1.5 race golds. forged flattops/4130 forged crank, polished X rods, ballanced..

1 3/4" slp headers, 3" mandrel bend cutout, flowmaster catback.
700R4.. 9.5" act 3300 stall converter... ten bolt.. 3.73 gears, M/T ETdrags.

SFC's, Spohn torque arm, 8 point roll bar, boxed control arms, panhard rod, .. it's got a lot of steel welded into it.

i figure i can tune close to another mph out of it, and with the propper gearing maybe get 1.5-2 more.

I am however quite hesitant to load that ten bolt with the 4.56 gears i need. so i'll just suffer along till i run across a big kid rear for it.

1bad91Z · 09-12-2003, 03:54 PM

Get smaller tires. If your running 28's, switch to 26's. This will bring your rpms up at the traps without having to do a gear swap. Anything higher than 3.73's with your 700r4 will probably hurt mph. Also, switch to a speed demon 750 DP carb. That will shave a tenth or 2 off! Good luck man, you have a strong setup!

chevyboy07 91 · 09-13-2003, 08:04 PM

he guys..dont forget about me...Im going to start the car tonight if i can get the LTR crap all on soon....383 vortec headed LTR...11's N/A is the plan...a lot more mods..ill talk to ya laterz

Pony Killer · 09-15-2003, 11:20 AM

going down in tire size will help to a point... it needed gear with the 26" tires. i went up, in size to the 28's so it'll be more consistent when i get the gears right.

As far as the gearing goes..if i do make a change it'll be to 4.56's. i'm undecided right now though.. the shorter gears, would probably help my mph if anythign... making sure that the converter is all the way "unstalled" for lack of the propper term.

as far as teh carb goes... i'm fairly content with it right now.it's performing pretty well, when it's street duties are done, i'll change carbs, transmission, and rear.

Jer82Z28 · 09-15-2003, 02:50 PM

Well I finally got some clean runs in with my transmission, however the track we were on is worse than the street for traction! Cold and damp.

best 60 was a 2.0 which got me to a 13.7 again at 99
I was relieved when I pulled another 101mph though later on that day, as I was scared the higher stall 'verter would hurt me on the top end.

Once I can get a decent 60' I'm hoping for mid to low 13's.

I ran into another guy with an Iroc who was running a vortec headed 406 on the stock TPI manifold. He was running decent, but not all that great. Hopefully he finds this thread and gets that car haulin!

Even up here in the middle of no where these heads are getting popular.

Shagwell · 09-23-2003, 12:03 AM

- Back from the dead! - It's good to hear from you again Mike(Crews).

- Mike(1bad91Z) - I haven't had time to get on in a while. - anyhow, It's running again. 200cc Pro aluminums, Headman LT's, headman x pipe, true duals w/o any loss of ground clearance. The car is awesome! Explosive throttle everywhere, and sounds awesome. It's acctually too loud for me. - I went to the track Fri. night, but broke the guide on the shift cable when I pulled in. With out tuning, and it shifting at 4,000 out of first and sec. it ran mid 14's at 98 mph. - As soon as I have a little side cash and some time, I'll be back out there. Should go into the 12's pretty easily -

later, justin...

DAVECS1 · 09-23-2003, 10:13 AM

Just wanted to respond to the guys that are contemplating milling there pro-topline vortecs. After making a 3000+ mistake I measured everything again. I found an interesting thing out about the Pro-Top line heads. They are not exactly 18 degree heads. They are closer to 17, but that may be a fluke with my heads. Anyhow that is why my valves missed the eyebrows in the pistons and self destructed my motor. All the clearances looked good cold, and I could even turn it over by hand, but once it got hot. That is all she wrote. So I would be careful with those heads.

seanof30306 · 09-23-2003, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by DAVECS1
Just wanted to respond to the guys that are contemplating milling there pro-topline vortecs. After making a 3000+ mistake I measured everything again. I found an interesting thing out about the Pro-Top line heads. They are not exactly 18 degree heads. They are closer to 17, but that may be a fluke with my heads. Anyhow that is why my valves missed the eyebrows in the pistons and self destructed my motor. All the clearances looked good cold, and I could even turn it over by hand, but once it got hot. That is all she wrote. So I would be careful with those heads.

dave,

have you been in touch with the manufacturer about it? if they sold you an 18 degree head and it's only 17 degrees, it would sure seem like they're liable.

also, when you spun the motor cold, did you put putty on top of the pistons to check for clearances?

honestly, i've been pretty interested in those heads, but your problem makes me reconsider

DAVECS1 · 09-23-2003, 12:05 PM

Yes I did check all the valve to piston clearances with putty and I used a thinner copper head gasket then the the one I assembled the motor with. I still think these heads are a good quality head. They are no different than any aftermarket part. I have heard it and said it a thousand times,,,,, you always need to measure everything before it is assembled. When you mix and match aftermarket parts you cannot expect everyones tolerances to stackup correctly it just is not possible. Though I do agree something like head angle is one of those dimensions that usually does not need to be inspected. I did contact the vender I got the heads from and he offered to replace the heads, but I have already bought some Ross pistons and clearanced them for the heads, since I had them magnafluxed and they were in good shape. I have heard that there were some core shifts in these heads, and that is what prompted me to measure them.

iroczman380 · 09-23-2003, 03:13 PM

hey guys, just want to say this thread kicks ***,

I am swapping my motor out for my vortec headed 383 motor with tpi and the sdpc vortec base.

Just curious, what do you guys think of these to cams with my combo (see sig)

1,comp 268h---484/484 lift 218/218 duration @.50 and 110lsa.

2. comp xe series--specs----493/501 lift 218/224 duration @.50 and 112 lsa.

My heads are worked and have 1.94/1.6 valves.

Which cam will make more power, idle better, be easier to tune and you know the rest!!

BOTTOM LINE WHICH CAM SHOULD I GO WITH 1 or 2.

1bad91Z · 09-23-2003, 03:17 PM

I still like my cam! CC XR276HR-12

iroczman380 · 09-23-2003, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1bad91Z
I still like my cam! CC XR276HR-12

Hey mike, remember I have a 383 so Id rather keep the duration around 220's 2teens not much higher so.But What are the specs on your cam???? let me know

iroczman380

Chris89GTA · 09-23-2003, 03:53 PM

the xr276 is a 224/230 cam...

why w/ a 383 would u want to stay in the 21x or 22x range... w/ a bigger cubed engine u can run a bigger cam and it act like a smaller one would.

heck i plan on running a 230/236 in my 355 i am building... and that is the absolute smallest i would run in a 383 IMO... but that is just me

iroczman380 · 09-23-2003, 04:54 PM

Will someone PLEASE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG!!!!

but if i run the ltr setup (tpi) fully ported, im guessing, its not going to keep up with a high duration cam, past 5500 rpms. If i were using a carb or miniram, more duration would be useful, and make more horsepower.

However, with tpi, it will not flow past 5500 rpms, sure you can hit 6000 if you want, with a manual or whatever, but thats not where you max horsepower Rpm is going to be NO MATTER WHAT with tpi, no matter what!!! So why would you go with a cam that is in the 2500-6500 rpm range when your setup is in the 1500-5500 rpm range???? 218/224 will flow good from around 1600-6000 rpms. Which is right where the tpi is going to shine. It will not flow well past 5200 really let alone 6,000, which is what many of you are suggesting.

Look at mikes Peak horsepower 283.5 at 5300 rpms. so why would you need more then 220ish duration??? I just dont see the point here.

Now lift is a whole new ballgame, vortecs flow great around 500-520 lift. So i would keep the lift around 500. People using more then that need to re-evaluate their combo. They may gain horse by lowering the lift.

I tend to think 1bad91z's cam is good especially for the 355, but his motor will like to rap out better then a 383 imo...

But i would put money on it that if he swapped his cam to the number 2 cam i listed above
(493/501 lift 218/224 duration 112 lsa) I think that he would possibly lower his times. I think number 2 cam is what iam going to go with and I will post track times with this cam.. Well see if it works out.

Like i said please please correct me if im wrong, i am still learning, but i would like some feedback on this issue!!! thanks
iroczman380

1bad91Z · 09-23-2003, 05:49 PM

Ok, somewhere on one of these pages in this topic, I went into detail on why my cam is the best spec'd cam for my setup and possibly the best cam for a long tube runner TPI setup with vortec heads. I'll get into brief detail on why my cam would work better.

1st, comp cams even lists in their catalog that the XR276HR-12 is the best cam for a fully modified TPI motor. This is because a decently ported TPI (high flow runners and base) will feed a motor to 5,500 - 5,700. This cam doesnt make power passed 5,800.

2nd, it's good for vortec heads because Vortec heads need a split pattern cam (especially with a TPI intake) because the lack the flow #'s on the exhaust side of the heads. Hence putting 230 @.050 exhaust duration to good use. Also, the lift on this cam is .503/.510 with 1.5 rockers. Vortec heads (even ported ones) flow the best at .500 - .540 lift, so this cam puts you right in the "meat" of the flow.

I have an AWESOME set of vortec heads. Everything that you could do to them to improve performance has been done. They flow great and so does my fully ported TPI setup. Everything matched up nicely as far as heads/cam/intake compatibilty.

My car pulls hard and rev's quick to 5,500 r's (where I shift) and does NOT fall on it's face when I pull it to 6,000 r's. It feels like it's not gaining more power after 5,500, but it stays the same, no power loss can be felt.

If I had a Vortec headed 383 with a TPI, I would still use the same cam.

With a 383, a ported high-flow TPI setup is a necessity, even to feed stock vortec heads (which still flow 235cfm in stock form).

My opinion is that a smaller cam than the XR276HR-12 would probably make less power.

ECM tuning is maker or breaker when it comes to this heads/cam/intake combo.

Just my $.02

Mike (1bad91Z)

vexter · 09-23-2003, 10:32 PM

Hey Mike (1Bad91Z),

I've been interested in your setup for sometime now. I'm putting together a vortec headed 355 also and am still undecided between the XR276HR and the XR269HR. CompCams recommended the 269. My big concern is passing emissions in Ca. I've been told by different tuners that 224 duration is about as high as you want to go when trying to meet emissions.

Also, my heads are off being flowbenched, so I'm waiting on some flow numbers before making a final decision. Still, I'm leaning toward the more conservative XR269HR.

Have you had a sniff test done with your new combo?

Aaron <vexter>

DAVECS1 · 09-24-2003, 12:19 AM

Do not get LTR set up limitations mixed up with multi port batch fire fuel injection. On a small block chevy with multi port, batch fire fuel injection you want to watch your cam duration, because you need a certain amount of time for the fuel to suspend in the air that is located behind the valve. To much duration and the scavaging of the exhaust will start to cause turbulence behind the valve before the fuel and air are mixed. Just for reference I ran the XR269. For my whole 15 mins of glory I had enough throttle response to paint the road at will. High lift short duration and a center line of 112 or more are what fuel injected small blocks like. Even though the LS1 is sequential fire they did not stray far away from this formula. Look up the specs on those cams. Stock they are about 300 right out the box.

1bad91Z · 09-24-2003, 10:59 AM

My car isn't too emissions friendly!

But, it's getting better the more I tune my ECM. I went with the bigger cam because my heads/intake flow really decent. The bigger the cam you get, the harder the tuning process for the ECM is. But, before too long, I will be going with F.A.S.T DFI with a wide-band o2 so I think this cam will work out perfectly!

camarojoe · 09-25-2003, 11:20 AM

Iroczman, 1bad91Z is right about the 276hr cam. If you wanna run, get a cam that is a little bigger than what you think would be good and then make that cam work out. I used to run a hot cam in my old 355 and it just wasn't big enough for me. I thought the same thing about the lpe 219 cam in my 383, just not enough lope.

Hey 1bad91Z, what do you think about me changing my tgo name to 1bad91Z-2-whenitrunn'nagin, j/k. That'd be cool though, right?

1bad91Z · 09-25-2003, 11:25 AM

lol, dude, dont change your screen name to that! First off, we all know you as camarojoe when we're looking for your posts and second, there's only ONE 1bad91Z !

camarojoe · 09-25-2003, 01:26 PM

Mike, I really do think that 91-92s are probably the best looking thirdgens after checking out my red 91 closely. I think it's the ground effects and my Roh 17's that set it off.

BTW, did you get your 91 to the track yet or are you too embarassed to post the times, cause you burnt the tires through the first two gears???

1bad91Z · 09-25-2003, 02:11 PM

Haven't taken it to the track for several reasons.

1st - I need sub-frame connectors BAD!!
2nd - I still have WAY more ECM tuning to do (currently in progress)
3rd - I need to ditch my 10 bolt w/ 3.23's for a 12 bolt with 3.73's (I'll snap that baby for sure)!
4th - I need ET streets cause even with little bitty 3.23's and a smaller geared 6-speed, the car still spin's violently in first and second gear.
5th - waiting to dyno car first so I know where to shift at. (can't dyno the car until I get the PROM right).
6th - LCA's and relocating brackets, and Pro 5.0 shifter would be nice, but not a necessity.

And finally, it takes $$$$$$$ to do all the above and spare car money is scarce right now!

I'm currently datalogging and burning new PROM's and the tuning is getting a little closer to being good. However the current PROM is still pulling 9 degree's of timing out at WOT due to false knock (it's running way too rich to be actual detonation).

So, even being WAY under geared, ECM robbing all kinds of power
by timing being pulled out, crappy street tires, no suspension mods, and having a crappy long throw stock T-56 shifter.............
I still beat an '02 Z06 and an '03 supercharged Cobra mustang (both red light races from 0 - 120 mph or so) !!!

With that said, once the above is corrected, I'll be making some 11 sec. passes with a naturally aspirated LTR TPI motor.

So no, I'm really not embarassed of the Z at all !

And yea, even though I like them all, 91 - 92 Z-28's are my favorite F-body as well.

camarojoe · 09-25-2003, 07:32 PM

1bad, I've gotta say Damn, I'm Jealous! Sort of. I've never seen your car before, and it looks as good as it runs! I bet those Cobras and Z06s aren't too mad when they get beat by a car that IMO looks better and meaner. I did have one more q, who was faster the Z or the Slowbra? lol And to think that a long-tube runner car could be that much of a badass...congrats.

1bad91Z · 09-25-2003, 08:04 PM

Thanks !

Actually, the Cobra was a little quicker off the line than the Z06. Eventhough the Z06 was a better race (closer by a couple cars or so), I gotta bigger jump on the Z06 out of the hole but he was starting to real me in alot quicker than the Cobra. The race with the Cobra was just a steady pull, not as drastic as a jump, but I had more distance on the Cobra than the Z06 when I let off the gas arround 115 - 120. If you want to see more pics of the car, click here (Finally, pics of my ride (1bad91Z)) .

iroczman380 · 09-25-2003, 09:54 PM

hey mike (1bad91z)

I have to agree with camarojoe, your car looks really nice, Where did you get those rims?? there killer..

Well still undecided on the cam, that 224/230 cam seems real good but I like the one I posted alot too. I think mainly because I have a 700r4, and Wont have an aftermarket stall for a couple months, but Myswell get a bit more cam while the motors still out but im not sure yet.

Hey wanted to get your thoughts on the issue--but have you ever considered a super-ram?? You know it will work with the sdpc vortec base, and slp runners you have. I think youd gain power across the board. but dont quote me on that. Im considering it myself. Just let me know what ya think about it.

iroczman380

irocz eric · 09-26-2003, 05:25 AM

still curious to see what mike will run at the track with the new cam.

1bad91Z · 09-26-2003, 11:40 AM

Yea, still waiting for Mike Crews to get time to get some results with the 269 cam.

You cant use the super ram plenum with LTR SLP runners. You have to use the super-ram runners. You can use any aftermarket TPI base with the Super-ram plenum/runners though. The whole reason I kept the TPI was to retain the factory correct intake look. If I wanted to make gobs more power, I would put a TPIS mini-ram III on top of my longblock and gain all kinds of power!

Shagwell · 09-29-2003, 11:16 PM

Hey Mike(1bad91z) - Nice look on those new wheels! That thing looks better and better every time I see it. - I think I finally got a deal made on a set of your year gfx. - Anyhow, what I was wondering was what brakes are those? I'm really looking for a good break upgrade, so any info you have could really help. -

thanks man

Pony Killer · 10-01-2003, 12:57 AM

Hit Atco tonight. on a whim... made only two passes though in three hours. but at least it was worth the wait.

here's the best slip

1.666..........................60
4.924..........................330
7.613 @ 90.68............1/8
9.902..........................990
11.960 @ 113.51....1/4

finally got the stickies to actually stick.

it's getting there.. still needs more gear. the 3.73's aren't enough on them 28" tires. but for now it'll have to do.

jetted 80/86 right now.. could probalby go down one size.