Aftermarket Vendor ReviewProvide questions and comments about aftermarket part vendors for the Third Gen F-Body.
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Chev 383 Short Blocks
These fully assembled short blocks include a seasoned GM 4-bolt block and an "All New Stroker Assembly"! Featuring a Scat cast steel crank, Scat 4340 I-beam rods with ARP capscrews and flat top (10.9:1 w/64cc) Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons. The block is fully stroker clearanced and hand assembled, by dedicated professionals, using new Clevite performance bearings, Perfect Circle Moly rings, and brass freeze plugs. Externally balanced. No core charge! No warranty expressed, or implied.
Thats the summary, $1,550, seems to be decent parts...but why so cheap? Its almost cheaper than the parts alone to build it, nevermind the block, machining, and assembly. Let me know if anyones used any of there short blocks, ive been planning on building my own bottom end simply because of price, im still a little weary of assembling my first bottom end so maybe ill start with a short block. Any suggestions, thanks guy
Great questions. I too am curious. For the price it almost makes building or re-building your own short block questionable, other than to know for certain how is was assembled and checked.
Hopefully someone who has purchased and installed this short block will add some feedback.
what i do notice is that there is no warranty (spelling) and the rotating assembly is externally ballanced. not to my liking
you can get similar short blocks from jegs by a company named "blueprint engines" they are balanced and i believe have a warranty. the asking prive is 1799$ and the castings are "select standard or 10-10 high nickel" blocks only.
Ya, i looked at those short blocks through jegs a while back, but they are more or less a stock bottom end rebuild am i wrong? Competition leads me to beleive that they use all name brand (Scat, keith black, perfect circle, etc) which i would also assume are all new? I cant see any company offering warranties on short blocks simply because alot of people blow motors over stupid mistakes like oil, over powering, or just plain beating it to the ground. Can anyone explain external/internal balancing a little further and why one is better(off topic of vendors but still)
Thanks, Kevin
if you look into them a bit the jegs motors have the same internals as the ones you are looking at. a scat 9000 series (i believe) crank, scat rods and keith black pistons.
actually i just checked their website and a "new" rotating assembly is not listed, but it doesn't say if the assembly is "reman" either. have to call and see.
Last edited by //<86TA>\\; 11-04-2006 at 02:38 PM.
Reason: update
External balancing puts more weight on the nose of the crank and leads to the snout breaking off the crank from what I understand.
NOW, keep in mind, that this is only a longetivity, abuse issue. People built stroker motors for years externally balanced and actually 1 pc rear main seal blocks are semi-externally balanced...but for me, I'd spend the money on the internal just to save the crank some stress and hopefully extend the life of the engine a few thousand miles...especially when we tend to turn our engines higher than the truck people that probably originated the stroker motor.
Chev 383 Short Blocks
These fully assembled short blocks include a seasoned GM 4-bolt block and an "All New Stroker Assembly"! Featuring a Scat cast steel crank, Scat 4340 I-beam rods with ARP capscrews and flat top (10.9:1 w/64cc) Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons. The block is fully stroker clearanced and hand assembled, by dedicated professionals, using new Clevite performance bearings, Perfect Circle Moly rings, and brass freeze plugs. Externally balanced. No core charge! No warranty expressed, or implied.
Thats the summary, $1,550, seems to be decent parts...but why so cheap? Its almost cheaper than the parts alone to build it, nevermind the block, machining, and assembly. Let me know if anyones used any of there short blocks, ive been planning on building my own bottom end simply because of price, im still a little weary of assembling my first bottom end so maybe ill start with a short block. Any suggestions, thanks guy
Lets see....You can buy all those parts for about 800 bucks, excluding the block. How do you get thats cheaper for the parts?
Rods-$200
crank-$200
pistons-$180
bearings and rings- $125.
Thats the cost of summit, or jegs.
I know I can get them for at least 50 bucks cheaper per item because I work at a machine shop. And I bet they buy large qualities of the parts, giving them a further discount.
Last edited by 86camaro383; 02-21-2007 at 05:55 PM.
