Aftermarket Vendor ReviewProvide questions and comments about aftermarket part vendors for the Third Gen F-Body.
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Well, I got the SFC's on the car today. My buddy helped me weld them in. We got all 3 pieces in all right, however there are a few tabs that he couldnt weld onto the car. My subframes are all bent out of shape from my floor jack / jack stands. We still got them on pretty good though. I just cant plan on driving the car reckless anymore because I would be afraid the welds up-front would break causing them to drop.
I really dont notice a difference during regular driving. In the corners though, I can feel a difference. Before, if I was carving a sharp corner, I had a little "play" in the wheel that you could turn the wheel a little more and the car wouldnt change track. Now, it seems more like its on rails.
The t-tops also got somewhat quieter. I cant say they stopped the squeaking, but definately quieted it up alot. Maybe if they were welded on better, they would help more.
Also, we didnt remove the exhaust. He was able to weld the small piece in, but couldnt get to all the sides. He just ran a short bead down each side where it meets the main SFC. I will try to get pictures of all the welds up soon.
Overall, though, UMI makes a great product. I cant wait to get money and order some rear arms from them.
__________________ -Adam
1990 Firebird Formula
Bone Stock 305TBI, T5 tranny, 62k Origional
UMI subframe Connectors
Because my IROC (150k miles on chassis with rough roads) squeeked and groaned so much, I had extra welding done when my SFC's were installed. I think the whole bottom of my car would have to rip off before the SFC broke loose. I actually completely stripped all the powdercoating off to I could get as much of a metal to metal contact welding surface. For those who have T-tops; if you're still getting squeeking, you might just need to remove the glass panels and feed the rubber seals with a quality silicone product (not Armor All) so the dry rubber isn't trying to glue itself to the glass. Everytime the body flexes it pulls the rubber across the T-top surfaces and that's why we hear little friction 'pops'. I use the Arospace 303 product on mine.
All of my suspension is shot, so the bad road surfaces transfer in to the driver instead of being absorbed by the suspension. As soon as my last UMI parts arrive, I'll gut the entire suspension and start installing everything new. I've been saving a set of Hunter Motorsports aluminum front shock mounts with heavy duty bearings for the top of my inner fenders. When I open the hood, they'll really set off the billet hood hinges. I should do one last quarter mile run and horspower/torque check before hand to see how much power is now able to be channeled to the rear tyres. That's a test that the magazines have never done!
Nitro
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Started IROC project in 2006 thinking to mimic a modern day stealth Mad Max's police Interceptor. Am attempting to maximize every possible cfm out of the TPI system. /Just replaced ENTIRE suspension with Spohn-Moog-UMI/ //Dying to learn PROM programing
That is such a toss-up with SFC....I bought a pair of frame connectors through jegster....I marked them up and (in my opnion) they hung too low....I'm gonna have to get some made...tubular welded. Does anyone have pics of their connectors?? Just as an idea...THANKS!!!
I purchased an UMI performance pistol grip shifter handle & I like it. I just saw another thread about UMI performance products here. I guess we should unite this thread for UMI consumers here.