will I have the NOS-5151 and HSR on TGO?

Will you? All it costs is money.

(BTW, jet it more like an LT1 intake than a TPI.)

see I'm building a blown 352 (destroked 400), and I was going to run the engine N/A for a while without the blower belt on.

since I have the 5151 I was going to put it on with the blower anyways, but I figured while Im out trying to break it in and tune it N/A I might as well hit it with a little juice. To keep from cluttering up this thread any further please email me at B4Ctom1@gmail.com

Vortec Heads Hummm, What is a Holley Weiand 7542. Is that not for Vortec heads

are you talking about the newly released but barely available part that was invented about 2 years after this post was?

Could be, hard to find much information about it. Sounds like it would be something I would like to try with some Etech heads and a good cam. Bet it will make my stump puller come to life above 4500 RPM. Wonder what else I would need to change?

what kind of cam are you running? and what is your stump puller?

Crap. Has anyone made this fit with a strut tower brace? I thought it would clear the hood and STB...

It is in a 39 Ford Coupe, 700R4 with 3.50 Ford 9". I did 3.89 gears, but my neck got sore.Ha Ha. I dont know what the cam is for sure, it is pretty mild; 18 inches of vacuum at an idle. Don't laugh it came out of a mercruzer 350 with 10 hours on it. I think I will try the Etech heads and the Stealth manifold along with the Eledbrock performer RPM cam.

A Ford with a Chevy drivetrain?? blasphemy!

Oh Well, I wanted reliabilty, performance, cheap available performance parts etc.

Actually I built the motor and found the body afterwards. Beside the mustang guys don't feel so bad when they get beat by one of thier own.

this thread needs stickied, and also

9894DBH & 9894DBJ

from earls are superceded by adding "ERL" behind the names

9894DBHERL & 9894DBJERL like so, failing to do so will show them simply as unavailable or out of stock at most parts houses.

Has anyone put the stealthram on and reconnected the MAF sensor-? Does it line up? Do you have to cut hose down or add a spacer?

It lines up fine. I think the hose would stretch far enough to reach the MAF. I got a new MAF and I didn't have the clip to hold it into the intake Y-piece, so it kept falling out. I made a fiberglass extension coming out of the y-piece about 2 inches long so the hose doesn't have to stretch any. I'm pretty sure before I did that I could stretch the hose down to the MAF easily enough.

I am in need of some good help here. I would be thankful for whoever can help me. Ok, here is the problem. I am having a really good mechanic install my Holley Stealth Ram into my 1989 IROC Camaro 350. They have ran into some small problems while doing it and labor is killing me at this point. Well, the problem they are running into now is that my stock fuel lines come out from the front of the car but need to hook into the back of the HSR (i believe thats what he said). Is there anyway to fix this without ordering new parts from Holley or Summit or does anyone have any other ideas. Need help!! Thanks in advance.

Kyle

he will have to get a Earls part # 9894DBHERL & 9894DBJERL and then build two -6 lines with fittings.

BBK shows 2 different part numbers for the twin 58mm tbs in the Summit catalog.

I've read that you should use an LT1 style TB on these to avoid the usual problems associated with the L98 tb's hitting stuff.

The regular model # are :
BBK-1536 85-88 305/350
BBK-1539 89-92 305/350
The 2 LT1 model # are :
BBK-1542 92-93 LT1 (this one costs slightly more)
BBK-1544 94-97 LT1

I want to put one on my HSR and don't know what the differences are between them. I'll need the 700R4 cable connection as well.
I'm thinking the standard types have the coolant passage and the LT1s do not.
And none appear to have a TPS or an IAC with them either.
Can anyone confirm some (or all) of this.
Thanks,
Jp

I got the 89-92 version before I knew about the clearance issue. I had to grind 1/3 of the edge of the cable guide off to clear the fuel crossover elbow.
I read somewhere that the 85-88 version works or at least doesn't have this problem.
I decided to make my own linkage & the earlier version made this harder. Or appeared to anyway from the pics I found.

considering the ease of which a throttle cable is changed (about a 1 minute job), and the fact that everything else will hook up properly, I would go with the early TPI unit and factory cable for the earlier car

Just for reference plenum to runner gasket kit is holley p/n
108-119

do u need the holley 950 ECU for this, or can u use ur stock ECU?

also, in a nutshell, can u just order the HSR and fiel rails and it will install/run "fine" *grante du will need 2 tune it, but will it run?

Yes,I mean no, you don't need the 950.
I'm going to run it on a 730.
I bought just the manifold, fuel rails w/ AFPR.
Got a 52mm TB to put on it though the stock one can be made to work as described above.

sweet! all this time i thought i had 2 buy the whole system. now i can finally get all this for under $500.. thxs guys!

Still no.. You're forgetting fuel lines, adj fuel pressure regulator, fuel rails... etc!

well, yea, that stuff 2... thats still better then the WHOLE 2500 system.

One thing I will say...
If you want to polish this thing its best to buy it that way or pay to have it done!
I spent too much time and money buying the matrials to do this thing. I didn't figure it would be as hard of a job as it was. My TPI setup was done by a couple of hours a night for about two weeks. This took nearly two months with several full days of working on it. Its still not a pro job but looks good. I still wanted to do more but enough is enough
Got my injectors back so I'm itchin' to get moving on preparing for all my changes this winter.

After shot

I got a early style TB (Accel) and cable and installed it on my 92, but for some reason the cable bracket seems to have the cable too far to the outside. The way it is I could almost hook it to the cruise or throttle pins. I was hoping maybe there was an early and late cable bracket but Im not finding anything. Any pictures or solutions of how yours is?

You are putting a 85-88 throttle body on a 92 throttle cable. The two throttle bodies are different. You will need a 89-92 throttle body. The early(85-88) year model will not work. The throttle cable should have a t-bar on the end of it that wraps around the linkage and slides into place.

Im guessing from your response you only browsed my post assuming I was making a "using an early TB with a late cable problem". I appreceate your response, but as I mentioned already I am using "an early TB and cable". My problem is with the cable retention bracket on the side of the HSR. When the pedal is pressed the cable sleeve almost begins to bind just before the butterflies are open all the way. Do I need to cut off the cable guide sleeve?

Yea, sorry....kind of late and trying to answer quickly. My cables and everything lined up fine. They looked to be a little bit long but they fit fine and run good so I don't have an answer for you. The throttle cable and kickdown cable do look to be cocked at an angle going to the throttle body from the bracket but mine seems to do fine.

cool, that is what I really needed to know.

So the HSR will bolt up to both pre 86 and later heads? I want to run one on my L98 heads and later get a set of dart pro1 heads and do not want to run into problems. Thanks for the info.

well if you have the aluminum L98's then it will, and the darts after that.

I have an 86 iroc 305tpi... I have the stock iron heads and stock distributor and stock fuel lines... will I need to change these if i buy the plenum, manifold, and fuel lines w/AFPR?
thanks
-Marc

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