Alternative Port EFI IntakesThis board is for tech discussions and questions about aftermarket port EFI such as the HSR, MR, SR, BBK, FIRST, etc.
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Hi Guys,
I need to replace my TPIS Bigmouth intake (long story). I'm considering either buying an Edelbrock TPI intake or upgrading to a Stealth Ram. I spoke with a guy about the HSR and he claims there is no torque loss down low and it is just a great intake all around.
However, according to many searches here and stealthram.com, there is a fair loss of both HP and TQ down low & in the mid-range.
My car is a weekend, non-raced car (see sig) and I normally drive under 80MPH & under 4000rpm. I love the torque and quick response of my setup and hate to lose it... but the large HP numbers of the HSR are very tempting!
So my question to you all is, would you recommend I stay with a TPI setup or upgrade to the HSR?
If I went with HSR, would a higher rear-gear ratio bring the powerband down where I like to drive?
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
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__________________ 355, balanced rotating assembly, flat-top Speed Pro coated skirt pistons, ~10:1, Holley Stealth Ram, Dart Iron Eagle 180cc Heads, XFI268-13 cam, Hughes 2500 Stall, Hedman Headers, Ford 24# Injectors, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Cloyes Double-Roller Timing Chain, TPIS Stage 5 PROM, 180* Thermostat, 200* Aux Fan Switch, TPIS Air Foil, Kirban AFPR, Edelbrock Elite Valve Covers, 97-Style Ram Air Hood, Aluminum Underdrive pulleys, smog/egr delete
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man i love my stealth ram....i was running a tbi setup then switched over to it...if i mat it from a dead stop it just melts the tires...from a 20 mph roll...i can get some smoke....i didnt see a big loss of torque...look at my sig for my combo...its not to far off from yours
__________________ 355,stealth ram,dart platinum heads 200cc, gm hot cam..lunati pro mod 5.7 rods, je pistons,total seal gapless 2nd rings..sh*&^y 700r4 tranny...getting things together for t56 swap and 9" really lookin into a single turbo...
on my little 305 i noticed that the torque moved up in the rpm band.
I think I put down decent numbers for a stock 305 with headers and an hsr with 165k miles on the motor.
It sounds like the torque loss in the bottom end is fairly unnoticeable (on a L98). I've been reading more posts and it sounds like a lot of people have had issues with the throttle bracket not fitting, throttle body not fitting, throttle cable too short, etc. Are these issues pretty common? I'm also concerned about running new fuel lines... I'm not a great "fab" guy, so I'm wondering if this swap may be out of my league?
Last edited by formula_novice; 06-29-2009 at 08:38 AM.
It sounds like the torque loss in the bottom end is fairly unnoticeable (on a L98). I've been reading more posts and it sounds like a lot of people have had issues with the throttle bracket not fitting, throttle body not fitting, throttle cable too short, etc. Are these issues pretty common? I'm also concerned about running new fuel lines... I'm not a great "fab" guy, so I'm wondering if this swap may be out of my league?
The throttle body problem is with the newer style linkage the throttle body linkage hits the HSR fuel rails because of the crossover in the front. I believe they started the newer style TB in 89. From my research if you use the professional products fuel rails you don't have this problem because the cross over does not have to be in the front, I don't know this for a fact. You can however switch to the older style cable, which we did on my buddy's 92. Then you need an older style linkage for you TB, he had to prof products one that had both throttle linkages. We got the longer of the 2 cables from napa, 33" if I remember right. Fuel lines are easy, get the adapter go to -6 and some steel braid and fittings, then all you needs is a hack saw and some patience. Leather gloves help also, unless you don't mind getting stabbed in the fingers by the lines when you are assembling them.
I see that you have the same hood I have so you won't have clearance issues with the tb.
I can't remember if I had the hsr on when I was still an auto but I didn't have any issues with the throttle cable.
For the braided fuel lines, you could go to a hydraulic shop and see if they carry the lines and fittings, if they do they can assemble them for you. Hampton Rubber in my area carry the lines and fittings and can assemble them for a small fee.
I made my own lines but I had them convert part of my stock tpi hard line to AN since I couldn't locate the 5/16 adaptor.
I'll post a pic or two when I get upstairs, currently in the garage typing on my little dell mini 9.
Standard bolts should work fine and the HSR (at least mine) is angled for your style head. there are washers available for the centerbolt head so that the 4 center bolts sit flush on the washer, but you should be fine.
RUS-610160 (90 degree -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN) x 2
RUS-632070 (-6 AN, 10 ft. Length)
EAR-9894DBHERL (-6 AN Hose End to 14mm x 1.5 Female)
EAR-9894DBJERL (-6 AN Hose End to 16mm x 1.5 Female)
RUS-610020 (Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN) x 2
Can anyone confirm this is correct? I'm not sure about the fuel line connection to the back of the intake. Would I just use two of the RUS-610020?
__________________ 355,stealth ram,dart platinum heads 200cc, gm hot cam..lunati pro mod 5.7 rods, je pistons,total seal gapless 2nd rings..sh*&^y 700r4 tranny...getting things together for t56 swap and 9" really lookin into a single turbo...
im not sure about the gasket...i used a felpro 1205...perfect match for the ports
__________________ 355,stealth ram,dart platinum heads 200cc, gm hot cam..lunati pro mod 5.7 rods, je pistons,total seal gapless 2nd rings..sh*&^y 700r4 tranny...getting things together for t56 swap and 9" really lookin into a single turbo...
I put the front sensor on the front top drivers side of the HSR base (this one is a coolant temp sensor for the ECM) and the bottom sensor in the bottom of the HSR plenum, this is the intake air temp sensor.
The back of my HSR only has vacuum lines.
Also, there are 2 ways to mount the fuel pressure regulator, one way has the outlet facing the drivers side of the car and the other way faces the passenger side.
Having it face the drivers side makes it harder to adjust the regulator since you will need a long screwedriver and will be adjusting it from the pass side, and putting the vacuum, line back on is a little tough.
Having it face the pass side requires a 90* AN fitting and allows you to adjust the regulator from the drivers side with ease.
I'll bring my camera with me tonight and if I meet up with my friend, I'll snap a few pics of his engine since his is set up with the regulator facing the pass side while mine faces the drivers side.
Missed this thread... you'll like the HSR. Torque curve moves up. It does sacrifice a small amount of power/tq in the lower range since thats where TPI peaks. HSR will peak higher than TPI so on a dyno you will see a torque difference.
The main thing is the HSR flattens the torque curve which creates a smooth acceleration pull at all rpms. More average torque is made and the car should be much quicker overall with HSR over TPI on a motor like the one in your sig.
My L98 with HSR was much more fun to drive than the stock TPI. Didnt notice much loss in torque but the 2800 stall converter helped that out.
Sounds like you have all the right parts.
My build i had the coolant temp sensor in one of the front ports on the HSR base by the waterneck. Any will do. Plug any others not needed.
Intake air temp sensor can screw in under the plenum or in the back of the plenum. Your choice. I went with the back since it was easier to do with the wiring harness. The spot under the plenum i used for PCV valve hookup.
The other spots in the back of the HSR plenum are used for EGR/other random vacuum lines , brake booster, and fuel pressure regulator.
THey do make a fitting i believe that will allow you to use TPI style fuel guage. Grainger makes them i believe. HSR is a 1/8 npt fitting if i recall, and TPI is something else obviously but i cant recall what it is. You'd have to search for it on here.
Other easier option is to buy a 20 dollar summit fuel guage for rail mounting (water filled) and a 90 degree fitting 1/8npt male to 1/8npt female. Fitting goes in the HSR rail fitting port and the gauge goes to the fitting. That way you can see fuel pressure all the time
I have a problem with the passenger side, rear fuel rail fitting... the piece that goes in there only fits if i screw the -6AN fitting into the rail. This leaves the small end sticking out and won't fit my -6AN fuel line connection.
Attached is a pic of the piece I'm referring to.
The only two pieces left in the bag are the 2 barb fittings.
Any ideas? I would assume I need a -6AN male to -6AN male adapter???
The fittings in the rails are -6an o-ring style fittings unless holley changed them in the past few years.
The fitting in the kit for the fuel rail should be a -6an oring to -6an male fitting. The o-ring side of that fitting in the pic should go into the rail and the rounded side is for your -6an lines. Both ends will thread in the rails just fine since they are both -6 an. You just need to make sure the flat end with the o-ring goes in the rail
Make sure the slot at the top of the oil pump driveshaft is aligned with the flat drive "blade" at the bottom of the distributor shaft. Look down the distributor hole in the intake manifold, and use a long flat-blade screwdriver to turn the oil pump drive to a known position. Remember, the distributor shaft will rotate slightly as the dizzy gear and the cam gear begin to mesh.
Bill
__________________
1991 Camaro Z28 L98 G92 N10
Stock short block,
HSR, AFR 195 Eliminator Heads, Comp XFI268 Cam, Dyno Don's Headers & exhaust, Kevin91Z Tune, Pro Built 700R4, 3.73:1 Axle...
For some reason, the dist was hard to take out... felt like it was stuck... after a good amount of wiggling, it finally came out.
Now I'm having trouble putting it back in... I made sure the oil pump and dist blade aligned but it just doesn't want to go down all the way. I figured it wasn't meshing with the cam gear as Orr89RocZ had mentioned above.
If I simlpy bump the starter, will the dist fall into place?
If I simlpy bump the starter, will the dist fall into place?
Using a very long flat head screwdriver, either that or a single tire iron, turn the oil pump drive, and face it in the correct direction, then simply drop the distributor into place....
I took out the spark plugs and turned the crank just a little bit. Then the dist fell right in!
I've never had that problem before, but I guess there's a first time for everything
Dumb HSR noob question: If you are facing the engine, is it the hard fuel line closest to the firewall that goes to the rear pass side of the HSR? Or does that one go to the regulator?
I took out the spark plugs and turned the crank just a little bit. Then the dist fell right in!
I've never had that problem before, but I guess there's a first time for everything
Dumb HSR noob question: If you are facing the engine, is it the hard fuel line closest to the firewall that goes to the rear pass side of the HSR? Or does that one go to the regulator?
Good deal, no matter how many times i take my distributor out, it never seems to go back in real easy so dont feel bad haha.
Yes to what Zepher said. Small is return and goes to regulator. Big is supply and goes to passenger rail if thats how you have your rails setup which is the most common way of doing things
I'm working on routing my fuel lines and, so far, everything is going ok
Next I need to figure out where/how I'm going to mount my external coil...
I ordered the fluid filled Summit pressure guage everyone recommended. Can that stay mounted on the rails or should it come off after I adjust the pressure?
As for mounting the external coil, I trimmed off the "lug" on the rear, right-hand side of the intake base and installed the coil mount bracket in the stock location, picking up the two aft intake-to-cylinder head bolts.
I finished cutting and running the fuel lines today. Other than buying a push-on air breather for the valve cover, I think I'm at a stand-still until my remaining parts arrive on Wed.
Since I have some down time, I might paint some black stripes between the plenum fins to pretty it up a bit.
Attached is a pic of where I'm at right now... I don't know about everyone else, but this car guy loves engine pics
I had that thermostat housing and that blue felpro gasket and they leaked.
I ended up going with a cast TBI one (used screw-in plugs to seal the sensor holes) with that blue felpro gasket.
While I'm waiting on the last few parts, I decided to go ahead and paint some stripes on my plenum... they kind of go with the stripes on my valve covers.
Here are the before & after mocked plenum install pics...
Hi Guys,
Made some progress tonight but ran into a problem... the throttle linkage assembly on the side of the throttle body is hitting the fuel rail. I thought about grinding the linkage assembly down a little but wasn't sure if there was a better alternative. How did you guys fix this?
__________________ 355,stealth ram,dart platinum heads 200cc, gm hot cam..lunati pro mod 5.7 rods, je pistons,total seal gapless 2nd rings..sh*&^y 700r4 tranny...getting things together for t56 swap and 9" really lookin into a single turbo...