Alternative Port EFI IntakesThis board is for tech discussions and questions about aftermarket port EFI such as the HSR, MR, SR, BBK, FIRST, etc.
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its alil too clean lol... thats not a stock wiring harness for sure. prob painless right?
also how much clearance u have with the kirban fuel pressure regulator and the distributer? im running mine the same way but i dont have it together. pics of the fuel lines?
I'll get some more pictures. I'm running the commander 950 so the harness came from holley. But, I cut and soldered alot of it to make it look a little better. There seems to be plenty of room for the distributer and the regulator. The distributor is clear to turn. I'm nearly ready to try to start soon, but this EFI will be all new to me. I may be crying for a carb back
Quote:
Originally Posted by customblackbird
its alil too clean lol... thats not a stock wiring harness for sure. prob painless right?
also how much clearance u have with the kirban fuel pressure regulator and the distributer? im running mine the same way but i dont have it together. pics of the fuel lines?
I'm running the commander 950 so the harness came from holley. But, I cut and soldered alot of it to make it look a little better. There seems to be plenty of room for the distributer and the regulator. The distributor is clear to turn. I'm nearly ready to try to start soon, but this EFI will be all new to me. I may be crying for a carb back
Did you install one of the HSR MPFI kits? This is the kit I'm contemplating using:
Also, what Lokar parts did you use to setup the throttle controls?
Yes, that is the kit. I got it started about 2:30 this morning. I went for a little drive this evening, it does need some tuning. I got back in the garage and my coolant temp went to about 230 and my top hose puked. Here is the finished view. I still need to decide on how to do the air filter. I'll probably just try and find the tpi filter setup. Part numbers for the throttle set up are: 700r4 kickdown cable (KD-2700TP), Throttle cable (TC-1000TP), and the Double bracket (TCB-40TP2)
also what upper radiator hose is that? i need to get one but i have the recomended mr gasket water neck. i always wanted a steel one with 2 rubber seals at the ends to seat it and absorb the engine twist/vibrations. just curious on yours... part # and whered ya get it.
also what upper radiator hose is that? i need to get one but i have the recomended mr gasket water neck. i always wanted a steel one with 2 rubber seals at the ends to seat it and absorb the engine twist/vibrations. just curious on yours... part # and whered ya get it.
I'll try to get some pics tonight. I noted in a previous post that my radiator puked after my little road trip. I found that my top radiator hose had come in contact with my alternator fan. So, I've got a different hose now. I'm using a gates 22086 which is the bottom hose on the chevy full size mid 90's pickups. It has the extra covering for protection. The hose in the pictures is of the one that busted. I think the new one looks pretty good and gets the hose away from the alternator. BTW I have a griffin radiator which means I have 1.5" hose fittings. I also have the Mr. Gasket water neck.
my altinator is on the pass side so i dont have the interferrence that u had... and i have no AC or smog. wat was the part number and whered ya get the old one that busted. anyone kno the dayco one thats recomended for the HSR swap with a stock radiator?
my altinator is on the pass side so i dont have the interferrence that u had... and i have no AC or smog. wat was the part number and whered ya get the old one that busted. anyone kno the dayco one thats recomended for the HSR swap with a stock radiator?
also what upper radiator hose is that? i need to get one but i have the recomended mr gasket water neck. i always wanted a steel one with 2 rubber seals at the ends to seat it and absorb the engine twist/vibrations. just curious on yours... part # and whered ya get it.
Here are a few pics of the fuel line connections and one of the final product. I'm done under the hood for a while. I have to work on tuning it now.
i just ordered my rotating assembly and my blocks at the machine shop... so now im getting serious with the HSR and figurin the stuff out.
i got 2 questions, thank you for posting the fuel lines. im gona be running rubber lines to hard lines that i bent and tran down the tranny tunnel but i wanted to see how u did urs. looks good. wat size AN lines are those?
first question. i see u mounted ur coil on the firewall. i didnt realize the stock remote mount coil from my stock 350tpi wont work untill about 20min ago!!! the bracket that bolts to the stock TPI base (last 2 bolts towards the rear of the engine on pass side) the HSR has a huge bump between the 2 bolt holes. D@MNNNN!! my question is... ive read that the coil shouldnt be farther than 12" from the distributer... and urs seems to be farther. i really didnt want to run the coil on the firewall. are u having any ignition probs?
second question. are you running a MAP sensor? my stock MAP sensor has a 2 weather pack connector and 2 vacume lines that go to the underneith side of the TB and the other i believe goes to the EGR valve. im not running the EGR anymore so do i still need to run the MAP? can i delete the MAP and be ok? seems like u dont have one so im asking u
i got 2 questions, thank you for posting the fuel lines. im gona be running rubber lines to hard lines that i bent and tran down the tranny tunnel but i wanted to see how u did urs. looks good. wat size AN lines are those? -6
first question. i see u mounted ur coil on the firewall. i didnt realize the stock remote mount coil from my stock 350tpi wont work untill about 20min ago!!! the bracket that bolts to the stock TPI base (last 2 bolts towards the rear of the engine on pass side) the HSR has a huge bump between the 2 bolt holes. D@MNNNN!! my question is... ive read that the coil shouldnt be farther than 12" from the distributer... and urs seems to be farther. i really didnt want to run the coil on the firewall. are u having any ignition probs? None so far. I didn't want to mount it so far away, but there isn't much room up there. Lots of cars run them a considerable distance from the dizzy. I have also seen the coil mounted in the heater blower area. With air I didn't have the room
second question. are you running a MAP sensor? my stock MAP sensor has a 2 weather pack connector and 2 vacume lines that go to the underneith side of the TB and the other i believe goes to the EGR valve. im not running the EGR anymore so do i still need to run the MAP? can i delete the MAP and be ok? seems like u dont have one so im asking u I am running a Map sensor. It has one vacuum line. It came with the HSR/commander kit.
The two vacuum lines are for the heat/air dampers as far as I know.
can you get a pic or tell me where you connected your tach pickup
For my guage it's the white wire in the 2 wire connector going to the distributor. For the computer it's the yellow wire in the other connector. I'm using a commander 950 for the ECU though. I'm not sure of the wire color for the computer on the stock ECU
yea thats what i figured... i think i can just delete the 2 vacume lines coming out of the firewall.
that MAP sensor with the one line... where is that line connected to? the TB? my MAP has 2 hard lines and i believe one goes to the EGR and i kno the other one went to the bottom of the TB underneath it, and has a Y in it which breaks off to the charcol canister which i deleted as well.
yea thats what i figured... i think i can just delete the 2 vacume lines coming out of the firewall.
that MAP sensor with the one line... where is that line connected to? the TB? my MAP has 2 hard lines and i believe one goes to the EGR and i kno the other one went to the bottom of the TB underneath it, and has a Y in it which breaks off to the charcol canister which i deleted as well.
yea thats what i figured... i think i can just delete the 2 vacume lines coming out of the firewall.
that MAP sensor with the one line... where is that line connected to? the TB? my MAP has 2 hard lines and i believe one goes to the EGR and i kno the other one went to the bottom of the TB underneath it, and has a Y in it which breaks off to the charcol canister which i deleted as well.
from the install manual:
The upper manifold will be installed next. There is a 3/8-18 NPT hole on the underside of the upper manifold that needs to be plugged if it is not used. Do this before the manifold is installed. There is a plug included. There are two 3/8-18 NPT and two 1/8-27 NPT holes in the rear of the manifold. The two 1/8-27 NPT should be used for the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator reference hose. Barbed fittings are included for this. The one 3/8-18 NPT fitting is used for the manifold air temperature sensor (gray/white connector). The other 3/8-18 NPT hole can be used for power brakes and other accessories. There is a 3/8-18 NPT plug included, if this hole is not needed. These fittings can be installed now or later.
7
Sweet!
I'm doing a similar type of conversion. Going from TBI to HSR as well. This is on a vette though.
Did you do a write up at all on your conversion?
I have to get a small cap HEI distributor to replace the HEI distributor that I have. Which did you go with?
Any diagram of where you connected all your vac lines?
I know i got a lot of questions, just trying to get prepped before i make my change. The only big differance is I'm going to use ebl/flash to control my HSR
from the install manual:
The upper manifold will be installed next. There is a 3/8-18 NPT hole on the underside of the upper manifold that needs to be plugged if it is not used. Do this before the manifold is installed. There is a plug included. There are two 3/8-18 NPT and two 1/8-27 NPT holes in the rear of the manifold. The two 1/8-27 NPT should be used for the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator reference hose. Barbed fittings are included for this. The one 3/8-18 NPT fitting is used for the manifold air temperature sensor (gray/white connector). The other 3/8-18 NPT hole can be used for power brakes and other accessories. There is a 3/8-18 NPT plug included, if this hole is not needed. These fittings can be installed now or later.
7
i was wrong bout the sensor, its the egr seleniod. i will just delete it( i dnt have a map sensor since i have a MAF), i know about the barb fittings, and i already plugged the bottom npt fitting under the plenum.
Sweet!
I'm doing a similar type of conversion. Going from TBI to HSR as well. This is on a vette though.
Did you do a write up at all on your conversion?
I have to get a small cap HEI distributor to replace the HEI distributor that I have. Which did you go with?
Any diagram of where you connected all your vac lines?
I know i got a lot of questions, just trying to get prepped before i make my change. The only big differance is I'm going to use ebl/flash to control my HSR
No write up, I've posted question here and there about my install. My distributor is the MSD 8366. All my vac lines are connected to the back of the upper manifold. I still have to find a spot for the vac lines for the heat and air dampers. I'm not using either at the moment,so it can wait.
That is a very awesome engine bay,,, very clean,, no messing wires running all over the place like my car. Great job, I wish my engine bay looked that good.
__________________ '87 L98 TPI IROCZ, 395cu.in. ZZ4 block (.030" over bore), ported Holley StealthRam; 3.875" Callies DragonSlayer crank, 5.85" Eagle H-beam rods, 14cc dished SRP pistons part# 148988, AFR190 heads, 3.70 rear gears, 224*/230* 114*LSA 0.530/0.536 lift CompCams cam, 1.6 roller rockers, 3000 Art Carr TC, SLP 1 3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, no cat, no AC, MAF w/o screens, 30#/hr Ford injectors, 52mm TB with airfoil, TB coolant bypass, Lay Ind. ram air kit, SS Brakes 1LE upgrade 12" rotors dual piston calipers, turbo TransAm fuel pump, K.Brown weld-on subframes. Rear tires: P295/35R18 BFG Drag Radials.
Best ET 12.12 sec @ 110.55 mph @ Milan.
With 395, ET 12.197 sec @ 113.65 mph @ Milan.
With 350, ET 12.97sec @ 105mph M/T ET Streets.
Best with HSR: ET 12.385 sec @ 108mph @ OSW.
Everything looks great. Nicely thought out and very well executed. You said you had planned on just using a stock TPI intake path, what about going aftermarket? Get yourself a coolant overflow tank from a 4th gen so you can get rid of the crappy looking stock tank. If you want, get a 4th gen washer fluid tank and then build a cold air setup similar to what the lt1 cars use that puts the filter over in front of the drivers tire. Should work MUCH better than the TPI setup and look much better as well.
Everything looks great. Nicely thought out and very well executed. You said you had planned on just using a stock TPI intake path, what about going aftermarket? Get yourself a coolant overflow tank from a 4th gen so you can get rid of the crappy looking stock tank. If you want, get a 4th gen washer fluid tank and then build a cold air setup similar to what the lt1 cars use that puts the filter over in front of the drivers tire. Should work MUCH better than the TPI setup and look much better as well.
I thought the TPI would be better than hanging a filter in front of my radiator. I figure it is kind of restrictive for a low 13 sec car. I will research the 4th gen tanks. Thanks for the ideas
I thought the TPI would be better than hanging a filter in front of my radiator. I figure it is kind of restrictive for a low 13 sec car. I will research the 4th gen tanks. Thanks for the ideas
Only thing about the TPI intake lid is that it is flattened down quite a bit for where it goes over the radiator.
The lt1 style intake path has supported a LOT of power in the 4th gen cars and the tanks really help clean up the engine bay a lot. They aren't exactly bolt in jobs (especially the washer fluid tank) but are well worth the effort IMO.
Fuel lines were cut under floor pans. Compression fittings to stainless fuel line purchased from local industrial supply house. Pic shows where lines were connected under floor pan
mo
. I've been two days cleaning and polishing again. Here is a few links for your top radiator hose options.
