yea, I'll just call them "Air induction" boxes!! This will eliminate the "ram" AND the "cold"

lol, fine by me.....

Instead of using the plastic welder, I'm thinking about pop-riveting the boxes together.

Does anyone else have experience with a plastic welder?

Just curious.

If you decide to mfg and sell let me know. I want a set. I have a TBI Car but recently purchased the TPI Air box to make something like this.

Thanks!

YAY another GA f-body. He is in the process of getting them made i believe..

any progress or picts of the boxes and lid/bellow?? just curious ,, i would like to get a set off ya.

sweet man just plain sweet

I have the material finally, I'm currently saving some $$ for the plastic welder right now (I think it will be nicer than using rivets).

I'll probably get the plastic welder when I get my tax return in, but hopefully sooner!

Dyno tests on various cars have shown that there isn't much improvement at all between open air and using the stock lid with the air box gutted, so I will not be making a high-flow lid.

I will only be making the ram-air boxes.

In the box, I'll include the ram-air boxes, (screens optional), and install instructions on howto install the boxes and gut your lower TPI filter housing. This setup "should" be good for a tenth or 2 in the 1/4 and maybe a little better gas milage. I defintely felt the difference on my car!

I'll start a new thread with pics when I get the first set plasti-welded up.

Mike (1bad91Z)

What about the idea of using epoxy or plastic weld that comes in epoxy style tubes? Would that work for you instead of buying a plastic welder?

It's just a thought.

-Jesse

I'd rather weld them instead of chemically adhering the seams.

hey if you are looking for an inexpencive welder we are getting one like this for our work.. Plastic welder

all found at harborfreight.com it is 30 bucks. do a serch for "plastic Bonder"

hope it helps.

sorry repeat post

I've been trying to find the time to make these for my car. Unfortunatly time is in very short supply these days...

When you start producing them I will certainly want a set!

I see that you welded all of the metal parts together but how did you connect the ram air box to the plastic top that connects to the lid?
and how is it actally connected to che car?

WOW!!! MrDude_1 = Smart Guy! What do you do for a living if you dont mind me asking, or you really retained a lot from school.

Kevin

They are a perfect fit and require no bolts or screws to attach.

They fit tight arround the fog light tubes and tight arround the lower square part of the lower twin filter housing. Eveything stays tight in place once you bolt the lower filter housing back on.

Hope that kinda makes sense. I will provide detailed installation instructions with the boxes.

yea that sounds right if my demensions are right i hope they are , i got so exited when i saw yours i went to get some metal my self. i have cut every thing out i just need to put it together.

Two last questions for you though how did you cut through the lower air dam, as in what tool or cutter, and also how did you put the whole thing together did you weld it or is it reveted or something, sorry if you alredy mentioned it in the last two pages i must have missed it.

Thanks again

Eli jacobson
Raptere

How I built it is explained all through-out the last 2 pages.

The boxes were tig welded and seams were siliconed.

I did not cut the lower air damn.

I removed the inner radiator baffle and corse-support X-brace.

hey i'm very interested in this. i'm starting a project car soon and want to get "ram air" (notice the quotation marks guys ) so let me know how much these will run me

i always liked your ram air setup....

~dodges the stones~

sorry bout the working that is what i ment about the air dam, but you said you removed the entire other part and the supports will that effecthe the strangth of you front end?

uhhhh, is it just me or does anyone else see how you can't effectively dyno the benefits from this (ram air, cold air, air flow tubey thingy) setup..... 'cause you have to be moving hehe so those of you who mentioned it's no effect on a dyno, well, it can't because there's no air flow

Youll still see a gain. The benefit is that in a normal cars setup takes in warm engine air where as this will suck in colder air from outside the car. Also some dyno places will have a fan running infront of the car, mainly for cooling purposes, but it will also help a cai kit.

That little X-brace adds very little support if any to corse support! The black plastic inner radiator baffle adds NO strength at all, it just deflects air.

What makes the font end strong to handle a frontal collision is the honeycomb front with steel behind it. So the answer to your question is no, you wont lose any real strength at all by do this mod.



Do you see a HP / TQ increase on a dyno with a cold air kit on most vehicles?

The answer is YES!

So yes, you "should" see an increase on the dyno.

It should be good for a solid tenth or two at the track and "maybe" a small increase in gas milage.


I will be taking pre-orders in February for those who want a set. Just look for the new thread with pics when I post it sometime over the next few weeks.

Mike

ill want a set. Do you have any ball park estimate on how much they will be? under 100? 1000? ect.....


Thanks
-Tony

Did you find or get a plastic welder already?

I'm hopefully trying to get the price under $70.00 for a set, it just depends how many people actually buy them.

The plastic welder has been ordered.

Put me down for a set.
As soon as you can tell me a price I can send payment.

Will you accept PayPal for payment?

Speedy

It will probably be Money order only. I wont have an exact price until I see how many boxes I can make out of a sheet and it also depends on how many people order. The more people buy, the cheaper I can sell them.

Like I mentioned earlier, I'll be taking pre-orders in February sometime. I'm in the middle of transitioning to a new job, that's why the progress has been slow.

I'll make a new post with pricing and pics etc..... in the next couple of weeks or so. Maybe I'll set up a GP of like ten or 15 with a price break or something. We'll see!

Mike

nice job on the box setup!!

I also have a similar set up and I can say from experience it made a lot of diference in my Z and I wouldnt change it back to stock even if it sucks up a bird or something.... I also have to make some type of grill cover,and 1bad91z making those and selling them would get you some $$ once people realize it actually does work! good luck!

Yea, it really does make a decent gain. It's a good mod !

looks like I'm reviving a very dead thread I am planning on doing this very soon. and was wondering if anyone had any vital measurements needed to do this? I am going to pick up some galvanized AC ducting and maybe some aluminum sheet metal to make an aluminum air dam to go with it.

--------------
DBLTKE,

Thanks for bringing this thread back to life! I've been wanting to do this myself. I have a TBI Car, but bought the TPI Aircleaner that I want to modify for this purpose. My holdup at the moment is getting the air ducted from the aircleaner to the Throttle Body... I guess one day I will have to walk around a boneyard somewhere and look for something to adapt. - I don't want to hijack your question. I'm glad to see some interest in this and I hope there are others out there with suggestions for us both.

Good Luck!
Speedy

I wonder if this is possible with my cowl hood...

A "ram air" from your hood or from the fog light holes? the latter which wouldn't matter what kind of hood you have.

Well I have a cowl hood and would want the area where the fog light holes are to act as some form of "ram air". Might use them for brake ducts or something.

Wow, this thread is little on the old side!

Well, there's good news and bad news......

Bad news is, I made one set of ABS plastic air boxes and the hours it took to make them were not worth the price I sold them for ($80.00). If I were to make another set, the price would most likely be double that and I completely understand if some people think that would be too expensive.

On the other hand, there is some good news.
I made a high-flow (Camaro only) TPI Y-air lid that picked up some more power on my setup. I also have 3 more lids that are almost done. I do have pics and I will be starting a separate thread on the TPI board later on tonight (I'm at work right now and the pics are at home).

When I make the thread, I'll post a link to it if you guys/gals want to check it out.

Mike (1bad91Z)

Use it for the "ram air" induction. I've seen somebody use the turn signal holes for brake ducting. I've also wondered if you could use a 91+ front GFX and use the openings on the sides for brake ducts. I really like the way the Grace Camaro incorporates brake ducts. It appears that they had this style that had round tubing cut into the GFX...



then I think they switched to this...



and here are a couple more. The first one is on a 4th gen but it's still the same idea with the NACA ducting. The second one is pretty cool but I don't know how that would affect cool air going to the radiator. I think I'll stop before I get too off topic.

Here is a link to my high-flow air lid.....

Click here: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tp...pi-camaro.html (High-flow TPI Camaro air lid)

Oh yea....

and to the guys that were complaining a while back about me calling them "RAM-AIR" boxes....

A 1 bar map sensor measures 0 - 100 KPA. 100 KPA meaning WOT or zero vacuum.

A 2 bar map sensor measures 0 - 200 KPA. Boost is measured starting at anything greater than 100 KPA. So a 2 bar MAP sensor can measure roughly upto 10 PSI boost (forced induction guys please correct me if I am wrong).

Using a 2 - bar map sensor, my "RAM-AIR" boxes, high-flow lid, and the air filters removed, I hit 107 KPA at ~100 MPH.

I call that "ramming" some air!

Updated pic of the screens I made for the ram-air boxes......

Although they are done now but did you consider the honeycomb look, i.e. Denali and 70’s trans am?

hey man, i love the idea. I really want to incorporate this idea to my IROC. I love how it looks factory but has some more kick to it. How has the project been going? Thanks man and keep it up. -Matt

If you blow up the picture full screen, you can see the mesh a little better, but the pic doesn't do it that much justice. The screen material is stainless steel mesh (the same material used on the front of C5 Z06's).

The ram-air / high-flow lid stuff has been finished for quite awhile now. The last thing I just changed on the car is all new front steering parts (tie rods/sleeves/drag link/idler arm etc.. etc...)

the mesh gives it a nice contrast

how much power r u getting to the wheels with your setup

Looks great!!

I haven't dyno'd the car yet. The car only get's driven a couple of times per year usually to a car show or two. That's about all the spare time I have for toys! But, from timeslipped cars I've raced in it, it should have a consistent low 12 to at best a high 11 in it.. if that helps.

Hey, I've been wanting to do this to my car, but I'm having a couple problems. I don't know what to do with that plastic piece that runs from the "scraper" to the top of the radiator. The car was totaled years back, and was put back together half-a$$ed. So I'm not sure which pieces up front are stock or not. A picture would help tremendously.

I made this myself.


http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/au...ill-101-a.html (BlueZee's custom grill 101...with test fit photos)