Quote: Originally Posted by Blue1989RS Seriously though, get the WC-T5. IIRC, the NWCT5 was only designed to handle 300ftlbs. The WCT5 handles 350ftlbs. They are exactly the same looking, but the WCT5 has a sticker on the side that says to use Dextron III (ATF). Everything else is the same. I guess I should start looking for a new transmission as well. The ZZ383 already killed the differential, I guess it's only a matter of time before the trans goes too. How does a T-56 rate?

They told me they were guide plates...that GM discontinued.

Also I would like to get everything at once...

I am looking into the Super T-5 Gear upgrade too....but not for a while as its $2000 lol.

Im out once again to search.

I could get a mustang WC T-5 but alot of people say they are WC and might not be...especially when they are sanded and painted...NO STICKER verification?
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HA HA....not to be mean, sorry.

But yeah as far as I have heard, read and all that the T-56 is the best out there right now...as for gearing for drifting, I couldnt tell you how it plays. I'd say go for it, why not right? Or maybe a Super T-5 upgrade?

I think the T56 is beefcake. That lines up with the 1200 sticker price I've seen. It also requires a special tranny crossmember. I'm happy with my auto's for now so I'll stick with them.

The drivetrain on the fbody is a known problem. As long as you don't shock anything by doing hard shifts or clutch drops they seem to be okay. My friend has a 400ci sbc putting out 425ftlbs. He's been good with the stock 10bolt and 5sp! But I don't think he's real jabby with it.

Drift/racing is anything but gentle.

What can be done to the 7.5 10 bolt besides eaton posi, richmond 3.73's, Summit aluminum carrier and Mark Williams Masterline Performance Axles for HI-TORQUE applications and of course Royal Purple Fluids?

This is what I plan to get the rear beefed up. Also, what do you think about the eaton posi, any recommendations?

Yeah, two words:

Clutch Kick

Haha, no doubt.

There is a tech writeup on how to build the 10 bolt to last a bit longer. Supposedly the case is weak. So get a pumkpin cover that reinforces the caps and a solid pinion shaft spacer. Look up the writeup. It gives part numbers. I don't have the problem of breaking parts so i haven't done anything to mine except for standard gear and carrier changes.

I decided to swap a Ford 9" in when I can, along with a Detriot Truetrac Limited Slip and CUSTOM Competition 3.89 gearing attached to a set of Mark Williams Masterline Axles and full willwood disc brake upgrade for front and rear. BUT this isnt for many years down the road...I just like getting everything situated before hand...

Also I found out that B&G Suspensions Lowering Springs are Linear Front and Progressive Rear

Spring Rates = Front-#845-880, Rear #200-300

* I wanted to ask you some questions too. What do you think about getting fully adjustable suspension parts. As I was thinking if I have non-adjust and the time comes to need it Ill have to order another. So in that case I feel buying everything I can in chrome-moly, spherical rod ended and adjustable from SPOHN.net of course, will be the best bang for the buck down the road..

First set will be Panhard Bar, Wonder Bar, Torque Arm, LCA's and LCAB's, Sway Bar Set and B&G Springs with Koni Sport Adjustables...what you think. Good first package? I dont want to get SFC's yet as my floor pans are rusted through and will be replacing those with brand new floor pans and carpet (old carpet got wet and smells REAL BAD)...from hawks too for $500 both sides

Let me know about suspension mods and the such...thanks bro.

Ill brb with more info on what I will need and the such.

Meh.

All depends on what you want to do with the car.

Ford 9", only if you think your engine will push the BW axle. The BW (borg warner) is used in racing and hold up good. Plus you can swap it in an afternoon.

Springs, I'm running stock springs all around and they work fine on my V6 car. I really like the progressive stock rear you can find on the 4th gens. Don't go too high though. Play with the stock option springs first before you go aftermarket.

Fully adjustable, only if you have lots of free time. The only pieces I wish were adjustable are the panhard and shocks. Sperical rod ended parts would be great, like the LCA's and steering linkages.

You can spend a lot of money on your car, no doubt. Is it worth it? Depends on what you're trying to fix or accomplish. You can learn a lot by just sticking with stock parts! Everything on my autocross car is stock option. With trades and scrounging I've spent under 500 on my setup and I'd consider it very good. I'd also suggest you start slow and discover the problems as your driving skill improves. You may also think about starting a thread in the suspension section of TGO.

/agreed

Having a trick car with all of the cool parts is fine, but if you learn with something like that, you'll learn to depend on the car and it's capabilities instead of working out the kinks in your driving technique.

Just my

I'd have to agree with blue, hawks price is too much, at the local you pull it near me the pedal setup w/hydrolics nessicary are $35. To have them pull the t-5 for me I paid $220. Everything nessicary from the jy was under $300 including the flywheel. Only parts I had to pull myself were the pedals and hydrolics. Then of course you add in the price of a clutch kit (pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, friction disc w/alignment tool) which varies depending on what brand you get.

HAHA. Come on, you guys dont think Im buying all this stuff right away do you? LMAO. No way even if I get a loan for $3000...

I still need to get the rest of my exhaust ($1000) , ignition ($500) , floor pans ($600) , transmission (From BowtieOverdrives $1000, from Pro-Built $2000) , intake manifold ($300) , full royal purple overhaul ($150) , fan kit ($100), front end rebuilt from sphon ($400), brakes and e-brake cable ($500), alignment, wheels balanced (Static balance...meaning weights are inside wheel), Belt Tensioner (Broke spring inside mine somehow, when I removed it) and probably a bunch of small things along the way.

Not to mention I dont have plates for it yet, insurance (as its been sitting since December 12 2006)...so once all thats done is when I am getting ready to start drifting, but I will be drifting a while, maybe a year before any serious suspension mods.

Thanks for your concern about me not needing all this but I understand, like I said, I LIKE TO BE ORGANIZED AND READY AHEAD OF TIME.

Thanks again for all your help guys. Im going to start a thread under member rides when I get the car running...until then Im doing research up the wazoo and just watching, learning about all the drift techniques...but am already a fan of feint...its my fav. way to drift in Gran Turismo 4 (soon to be 5) and Forza Motorsports. Not like a game teaches much about actual drifting but hey, it lets me KIND of test the diff techniques....alright guys IM OUTTA HERE...going home from work.

what setup do you have for you steering angle

Wow, thats kind of an advanced question. There really isn't much to do. I was going to try to use an S10 center link to provide more ackermann. That or move the spindle tie rod link further in. Right now I've retired the V6 from drifting due to a lack of power.

i just took a 350 vortec out of my friends wreck 99 chevy truck to put in my 86 z-28 5-speed. should i go with the v-belts or leave it with the 1 belt and if anybody knows who sells adjustable tirerod ends or who to get a deeper turn let me know