Auto Detailing and AppearanceTips and tricks on how to make your Third Gen shine! Get opinions on products or how something tasteful looks on your Chevrolet Camaro or Pontiac Firebird.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
I saw these on eBay: eBay Motors: S 83-92 CHEVY CAMARO EURO CRYSTAL HEADLIGHTS + H4 BULBS (item 290009071172 end time Jul-24-06 23:36:39 PDT) and they really don't look like they'd be a bad upgrade but I have a few quick questions . I noticed that they have "city lights" (which I assume is the blue bulb in there), does anyone who has these have the ones with the city light and do they like it and does it light up the whole lense well? The auction says that rewiring might be required, is this required for our cars? Pictures would be nice if you have them on your car.
They're nice; I like the freedom of bulb choice. I used white LED's in my Camaro; here's a pic of "city lights" in my Deville - you MUST rewire the plug (easy) to use the H4 bulbs correctly - they will be DIM if you do not.
I think I can handle that, I thought it was more along the lines or replacing all the wires with thicker gauge or something. The city lights look like they light it up pretty well, I was thinking if I bought those I'd get red bulbs to match my paint color and hook those up to the parking lights.
Do the H4s last longer than the sealed beams? Are they white beams (I have Sylvania Silverstars on my car now and I love having the white light)? What would I do about the high beams, would I have to buy a different bulb for those?
Last edited by compuwiz1937; 07-21-2006 at 10:29 AM.
how are those h4 bulbs that the lights come with? are they any good, brighter than the stock ones?
ive always wanted a set of these but i never have bought em. i really like the way mine look but i like the way these have that city light that is really cool.
i have another guestion though. wiring the city lights to your parking lights would cause the city lights to stay on when the headlights and brights are on... would that cause the headlights and bright lights to have a red tint to the lights (if you have red city lights in them)?
"What would I do about the high beams"....gotta get the bulb hook up like the ones on the lows (3 prong) I just hooked the wires up just like they were originaly on the brights leaving the middle prong with no wire and they work fine. Now if u could find a 2 prong h4 bulb then no need but as far as i know, they dont exist
I have them on mine, and I use to have the projector beam ones from street beat customs. The projector beam ones really suck so I pulled them out and put the euro ones back in with silverstar bulbs.
I figured out about how the high beams work shortly after that post. So it looks like the Euro ones in that auction are the ones to go for.
I'm guessing that the light being white or not depends on what bulb I use. I would also like the know the answer to Maroon's question about the city lights being on while the H4s are on.
Couldnt You Just Hook The City Lights Up To A Seperate Switch Under Your Dash Or On The Side Of The Center Console By Your Thighs And Flip It On When You Want The City Lights On And Flip It Off When You Turn Your Headlights On.
I had these on my 95 S-10. And I had purple neon bulbs in the city lights, blue reg bulb lights, and white reg bulbs, wired to the parking lights. When the headlights are on, you don't even see the city lights at all. So you can put whatever color you want in there, but if you put red or blue, the popo will be on you like white on rice.
They work fine, but I don't know how old they are or how much life is left in them. They were on the car when I bought it, that was over 2 years ago and I always drive with the headlights on (even during the day).
Do you have two pairs (for the highs and lows) or just one? If you're interested in just selling them, I might take them if you give me a good price. Could you get me some pictures of them (some on the car with the lights on if you have any of those would be nice too).
I think I can handle that, I thought it was more along the lines or replacing all the wires with thicker gauge or something. The city lights look like they light it up pretty well, I was thinking if I bought those I'd get red bulbs to match my paint color and hook those up to the parking lights.
Do the H4s last longer than the sealed beams? Are they white beams (I have Sylvania Silverstars on my car now and I love having the white light)? What would I do about the high beams, would I have to buy a different bulb for those?
H4'S do pull a lot of power, so I recommend upgrading your system to run off the battery--otherwise you run the risk of burning up you headlamp switch. Summit and I think Jegs both sell a harness kit from APC that will help with this. I upgraded even their harness where it connects to the battery because it was getting too hot and started to melt the connector. We also installed a maxi fuse in line just in case.
And, remember, you get what you pay for and as cheap as those are, I'd be wary. Then again, you might get lucky. The mod works well though. I like mine.
__________________ "Not all who wander are lost." -- JRRT
i only have one pair of 2 lights. they're perfect condition, had them on my RS before it caught fire and luckily removed them before it did. never put them on my IROC cause i'd rather not deal with wiring them and just plug the silverstars right in. how much would you think is a fair price for them? if i remember correctly they're at least 30$ on ebay right?
I just got my harness today. Looks like it'll be a piece of cake to install this. I'll just remove the factory harness up to the driver side low beam plug so it isn't in the way. I'm gonna run it through a fuse block that's run off a 6 gauge wire.
Do I still need to "re-pin" the factory connector when I use this harness?
I just got my harness today. Looks like it'll be a piece of cake to install this. I'll just remove the factory harness up to the driver side low beam plug so it isn't in the way. I'm gonna run it through a fuse block that's run off a 6 gauge wire.
Do I still need to "re-pin" the factory connector when I use this harness?
I don't remember anymore to be honest, sorry. However, if you do need to re-pin, you'll know fairly quickly. With the lights on the "low" setting you'll get a "dirty" brown glow in the "high" beam lamps (inboard) if its not right.
Also, I will suggest again that you use a heavier gauge wire than the harness provides where it connects to the battery. I literally burned mine up in less than 10 minutes with the lamps on full high (we were still in the shop testing the system). we added heavier wire and a "maxi" style in-line fuse and had no problems after that.
__________________ "Not all who wander are lost." -- JRRT
Do you mean replace the wire from the plastic connector to the "O" connectors or the wire relay plugs all the way to the "O" connectors?
I have one of these I'll be connecting it to:
It's connected to my battery with a 6 gauge wire, and my amp is run off one side and my remote and power locks are run off the other side. Since I'm installing factory power accessories soon I'll hook up the remote to the factory fuse box and I'll have the other side of the fuse block free for the headlights.
Last edited by compuwiz1937; 07-29-2006 at 06:36 PM.
Do you mean replace the wire from the plastic connector to the "O" connectors or the wire relay plugs all the way to the "O" connectors?
I have one of these I'll be connecting it to:
It's connected to my battery with a 6 gauge wire, and my amp is run off one side and my remote and power locks are run off the other side. Since I'm installing factory power accessories soon I'll hook up the remote to the factory fuse box and I'll have the other side of the fuse block free for the headlights.
That looks healthy enough to handle it. as for the wiring, I'd have to go look to be sure, but I think we did both sides. I had someone else who installed it, so I'm not completely sure. The molex style connector on mine started to melt. so we replaced both sides of it with heavier gauge stuff. the rest of the harness was fine.
__________________ "Not all who wander are lost." -- JRRT
Another question, since you guys are saying these lights use more power, is my alternator going to be able to handle them? It's not even 3 months old, but it's a refurb and the same as the stocker.
Also how do you take the lights out just got mine and the harness. Looks like to get to the two screws on the bottom of the light housing you will scratch the headlight bucket pretty bad, even if you push down on it?
Any Tips Or Advice?
Thanks,
P.S Your Alt will be fine its not that much more power where you need to worry about your alt not being able to power it.
I have no idea how to change them with the bumper on, I looked at that earlier today with my old bumper and headlight bar and couldn't figure out how to do it. Since I don't feel like screwing up my brand new paint, I'm gonna wait until my new headlights come in (not until Monday ) before I put the new bumper and new headlight bar on the car.
I love how AMERICAN Products Company has Shiny Joug or whatever written all over the wiring and the worst English ever on the box. Anyway, I just got finished pulling the factory wiring and getting getting the APC harness put in its place (all I have to do is hook up the grounds and battery). I can't believe how thin the factory wires are! I'm really glad I bought this new harness, there's definately no way the factory wiring could handle these new lights.
Oh, and for those also doing this conversion using the APC harness, I did need to re-pin the connector, I did it on the connector of the APC harness though so if I ever need to hook the factory wires back up there's no problem and it was easier that way since all I had to do was pop the wires out and move them around to the correct places.
Ok, the new lights are FINALLY here! I started the install, and I have to modify the black piece that the lights sit in because they won't fit and if I want to keep the city lights I have to modify the headlight bar as well because they hit it. Did you guys have to do this to make them work?
I finally got the lights in today and I think they were really worth it. I'm pretty sure I'll cut out that molex looking connector and connect the wires together there, just having the low beams on it got fairly hot and since I always drive with the headlights on, I don't want something to happen.
One thing I'm concerned about is this:
I know that's the stock location (I have the APC harness run inside that wire loom where the stock harness was), but is that really safe being that close to the radiator?
EDIT: I forgot to mention that the city lights didn't make it in. I didn't want to have to cut the headlight bar to make those work and I couldn't find red 194 bulbs locally.
Last edited by compuwiz1937; 08-09-2006 at 12:10 AM.