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I got the paint from wal mart. It is rustoleum gloss sail blue. Yeah it would be cool to have blue grass, but i don't think i could afford to do the whole backyard haha.
Did you use the same method? If not, how did you do yours?
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yes i used the same method. I mixed the paint 2:1 with the mineral spirits. It is kind of hard to paint the vertical surfaces but I only had a few runs in my paint so far. It was a lot easier than I expected. I will have updated pictures tonight after I go and put on the last coat and wet sand and polish and wax it.
Ive read this a couple times, compared some posts from other sites and you have me convinced to try it. Luckily i have a beater work car to test it on. Going to get the wagner and rustoleum. Only question i have is what kinda of mineral spirits, how much sand paper should i expect to use and any recommendations on a sander.
That seems to have turned out very well. Interesing you used Rustoleum - I use rattle can rustoleum semi-gloss black on trim and parts, and it holds up very well. Folks laugh at me when I tell them, then the next time I see them they thank me for the tip! It even color matches so close you can't tell. Never thought of doing the whole car, might have a weekend project...
Here is my experience with wagner sprayer. It has not been good. I am painting my car with Gloss White and the sprayer has a tendacy of spitting paint out causing globs and runs and sometimes not spraying anything. It also started leaking around the nozzel causing a mess. I started out 2:1 with mineral spirits and it really seemed thin and runny. Added a little more paint and it seem to help some but gun still spit and sputerred paint. Now, I am having to sand down again and try again. I tested this sprayer on the wing I removed and it seem to do ok but I still wasn't satisified.
For those using Wagners sprayers, which one are you using and what is the secret to a smooth spray?
Ok,
Here is my experience with wagner sprayer. It has not been good. I am painting my car with Gloss White and the sprayer has a tendacy of spitting paint out causing globs and runs and sometimes not spraying anything. It also started leaking around the nozzel causing a mess. I started out 2:1 with mineral spirits and it really seemed thin and runny. Added a little more paint and it seem to help some but gun still spit and sputerred paint. Now, I am having to sand down again and try again. I tested this sprayer on the wing I removed and it seem to do ok but I still wasn't satisified.
For those using Wagners sprayers, which one are you using and what is the secret to a smooth spray?
If yours isn't spraying it's because it's clogged up. You need to take the nozzle apart and make sure everything is clean and that there's no dried paint stuck in any of the airways in the nozzle. The pickup tube could be clogged with dried paint from a previous use also.
__________________ 355 TBI/WC T-5/ 9 Bolt 3.27 Posi w/PBR's, Edlebrock headers, MSD iginition, complete WS6 conversion, open element, energy suspension poly bushings throughout, complete A.I.R. delete, 8mm wires, 165* stat, 4th gen T/A wing, all black leather 4th gen interior, Custom circle grid T/A tail lights, Sequential turn signals.
Cool, I will give that Model a try. The one I am using was barrowed and looked to have been used with Latex but I did try and clean it up as much as possible. It was not a HVLP which could have been my problem.
Also, should have the paint mixture been that thin 2:1...that sure did seem thin like water almost. What setting did you use on the gun and what did you use to clean it up afterwards?
Thanks for all your information? Hopefully I can get this done so I can drive this Bird around without it looking like a peeling leper.
I have some skeptical people laughing about the process of this project so If I can get close to what you have done, I will be the one laughing when it comes out ok.
I figured your sprayer had been used with latex before. That stuff is a PITA to clean out of the gun once it's dried.
Yes, 2:1 is what I used. It seems thin, but the key is several light coats to get good coverage. If you lay it on thick you're begging for it to run.
I don't remember what setting I used on the gun to be honest with you, I just adjusted it while I was spraying a test piece.
For clean up of the gun afterwards I just used mineral spirits. You have to let it spray through the gun for a while to get the internals cleaned out good.
__________________ 355 TBI/WC T-5/ 9 Bolt 3.27 Posi w/PBR's, Edlebrock headers, MSD iginition, complete WS6 conversion, open element, energy suspension poly bushings throughout, complete A.I.R. delete, 8mm wires, 165* stat, 4th gen T/A wing, all black leather 4th gen interior, Custom circle grid T/A tail lights, Sequential turn signals.
Well, I got my new Spray Gun (the same one FYRCHKN used) a couple of days ago and it has been raining and huimid the last few days. It looks like I might to get to shoot in the morning before the afternoon as long as the wind stays down.
I will update with my experience with this new gun and hopefully I can get this painted so I can get it done and drive her around.
My luck would have it that this morning is muggy and humid...no wind. It appears we will have rain again for the next couple of days. We have had more rain in the last couple of weeks than we have had in the last 5 years.
Well, today appears to be somewhat humid but no wind and the forecast calls for a drier afternoon with a little bit of wind. So I attempted the first coat and will have to wait a little longer for that to start drying but should be able to continue a little later.
The spray gun is awesome. It is quiet, no leaking or paint sputtering and I have great control over the pattern and volume. The first coat went on very smooth and thin. It will take several coats to get the luster glossy look, but I am very impressed with the gun.
So much for the weather forcast. It is pouring rain. I am hoping the light coat I put on this morning is dry enough to repel the water. If not, then it will be screwed up. I know that my masking job will need to be re-done as well.
I can't believe it, since I started this project we have had more rain in the last week or so than we have had in the last five years combined. I don't have a garage so this has turned into a big PITA.
I'm really surprsied how good the paintjobs turn out. My TA is in need of a paint job also, it has so many chips and scratches that you cain't really touch it up anymore. But I'll also have the same garageless problem, well I have a garage but I can't really move around enough to paint in it since it's a small single car garage.
__________________ My dream:
1982 Pontiac Firebird Trans AM
My cars:
1989 Pontiac Trans AM
2000 Chevrolet Blazer LT
Last edited by Blackknight; 06-15-2009 at 01:40 AM.
Reason: Added pic
Well this evening was dry and no wind, so on with the second coat. It is improving by the coat. The only thing I am having are very small flying bugs landing on the car and sticking. No big deal, when it is dry they come off. Also I wasn't able to repair the light hail damage so they are showing up. I will take it to the paintless dent repair when I am done to have them taken out.
Other than that I am still going on with the budget paint job...until next update......
Feeling kinda lucky.......waited about 45 minutes and shot it again for the third coat. It went like a champ. So far I am seeing little to no orange peel. I am thinking about 3 more coats and a week it will be ready for wet sand, polish and a wax.
I have been playing around with the rustoleum rusty metal primer on an old car of mine. Rolling it on over deep scratches and door dings. Straight with no thinner and it works like liquid bondo. Just wait half an hour or so and wet sand the affected area with sandpaper over a paint stick, then repeat until ding is gone.
Ok, I just finished the 6th light coat and I have a few minor runs which I am going to sand down. Then give a couple of more coats and a final sand 1200 grit wet sand and then a polish. I think I can have it done by this weekend and let it cure for about a week before the polish.....Pics at this point would look the same. So my next pics will be once the masking comes off and some clean up.
Well, It rains today again but late this afternoon so it had all of last night and most of today to dry enough to work with. Got home from work and the car was wet from front to back....guess what...that's right ......wipped out the 400 wet sand paper and begin to smooth out the minor runs and small bugs and any other grit on the surface. After sanding the entire car rinsed it off with the water hose and walla ready for the next coat when the rain goes away. The 400 is just enough to smooth it out. Now I will apply 2 more light coats......
Wow waterboy so far that looks great...I think I'll have to try this on my old beat up S-10 as a trial run before I go painting the maro!And definitely keep us updated!!
Last edited by Intrepid781; 06-17-2009 at 10:51 PM.
Took the plunge and bought the Wagner Double Duty today. $65 at the HoDepo. I plugged it in and was very surprised how fast the air comes out. I thought it just vibrated out the paint like the old ones I assume you need to change the filter alot because of all the overspray that intake must pick up.
They have a new system with Optimus technology ???
Several different styles and prices. Says right on it you can't
shoot enamel. Just about useless in my opinion. Probably because of new
regulations coming down about enamel paint I bet.
They have a new system with Optimus technology ???
Several different styles and prices. Says right on it you can't
shoot enamel. Just about useless in my opinion. Probably because of new
regulations coming down about enamel paint I bet.
Who follows instructions?
Last weekend I sprayed aniline dye on a bed that my buddy built. He's a high end furniture builder. There were alot of intricate carvings that would have been a PITA to try to stain evenly with a brush. Once the dye was dry I sprayed it with clear semi gloss lacquer that the instructions on the can said DO NOT SPRAY. We found out why they don't want you to spray it...we ended up using half the material that we would have used if we had applied it with a brush.
Got the last 2 coats on and dry before it rained AGAIN ! It appears to look ok and tommorow I will be taking the mask off and make sure I didn't get overspray on anything that wasn't suppose get painted. I will let it cure for at least a week before giving it the final 2000 grit sanding and polish and wax. I will post pics tomorrow.....
Of coarse it is not a showroom finish but for about 200.00 I can't complain. I probably could have prepped a little better but for an everyday driver that I gave $1600.00 with excellent interior and runs excellent too, it will do good for now.
Finally unmasked.......Now just wait to cure and polish it up and remount the rear wing. I do have just a few minor un-noticeable runs that I hope work out when I start polishing it up.
I used Rustolem Gloss White enamel in the Quart sizes. I use almoat 3 quarts. I have little left over for touch up if needed. I did use the 2:1 with Mineral Spirits and used a better Wagner Sprayer than I started with. I used the the 3M 60,120,400,800,1200 and 2000 automotive sand paper available at Walmart throughout the project.
I had some minor rust spots that had to be preped and primed before paint and I used rustoleum rattle can for that. I wanted to keep Rustoleum products so they would work together with no problems.
There is a huge thread kicking around the net of the guy who painted his 69 charger with tremclad (same **** as rustoleum). He claims it hardens like oven paint with the same procedure the posted used here only difference was he rolled his on. It's been years and his paint has held up really well , he also abuses the car dirt roads ,etc.
Regardless of the paint choice if he maintains the paint job (a good wax every so often) and such it will last a very long time. It's people who do not take care of paint (cheap or not) that let go to **** within a year or two.
Here is a pic of the charger done with a roller and tremclad
Well here it is........sanded, compound rubbed and waxed. By no means is near show quality but definately presentable and will get me by for a year or so until I can have it professionally done. Or I buy another F-Body that has already had a new paint job. I do prefer the Camaro against the Bird but this is what I have for now and will enjoy it while I have it or pass it down to by son.
Got it in the shade and the polishing doesn't look so good.
FYRCHKN - Which rubbing compound did you use? I tried the Turtle wax liquid and it didn't seem to to that wonderful. I was wondering if you used paste and how you applied it and with what.
I purchased a polisher with a terry cloth and wool pads. I used the terry cloth to apply and the wool to buff and it seem not to work that good.
Any suggestions or tips? I may need to start the rubbing over again.
Your on the right track, by reviewing your post it looks like you final sand with 2000 grit, then used rubbing compound with a wool pad(removes sand scratches but leaves a dull finish) then you went straight to wax? Wax is meant to protect the finish not bring back the gloss.
You need to use a polish(one that contains no wax or silicone) after rubbing compound to bring back the gloss and use it with a foam pad ONLY, then go to wax.
3m Finesse-IT polish is the best I have ever used, but pricey. Seems like I recall over in the mopar forums the guys using Turtle wax polish with great results.
Got it in the shade and the polishing doesn't look so good.
FYRCHKN - Which rubbing compound did you use? I tried the Turtle wax liquid and it didn't seem to to that wonderful. I was wondering if you used paste and how you applied it and with what.
I purchased a polisher with a terry cloth and wool pads. I used the terry cloth to apply and the wool to buff and it seem not to work that good.
Any suggestions or tips? I may need to start the rubbing over again.
Thanks.
I can't remember the exact polishing compound I used. It was Turtle Wax liquid in a black squeeze tube.
This guy used the same paint, but rolled it on, it looks like he used NO. 7 polishing compound in paste form for a whopping $2 and got a very glossy finish again using a variable high speed polisher. His lastest update after two years: still shines like new, even a repair a year later with perfect match, very interesting.
Last edited by TransAM Joe; 06-28-2009 at 09:24 AM.
Ok.....stripped the wax with Dawn dish soap and water. Next applied Turtle Wax polishing compound with variable high speed polisher with foam disk (what a mess). polished until compound was dry and left a film. I then used a random orbital polisher with terry cloth bonnet to polish a deeper shine (no swirl marks). All I need now is to top off with wax again.
I am waiting for my decals to arrive and attach, then put on the wax.
OK this sounds like something I wanna try on my bird. I got a couple of questions first. If i'm using bondo should I prime those areas or the entire car? Also what department is the rustoleum in at wall mart. Do you think this would be posible to do with the Duplicolor paintshop paint at pepboys?
355 TBI/WC T-5/ 9 Bolt 3.27 Posi w/PBR's, Edlebrock headers, MSD iginition, complete WS6 conversion, open element, energy suspension poly bushings throughout, complete A.I.R. delete, 8mm wires, 165* stat, 4th gen T/A wing, all black leather 4th gen interior, Custom circle grid T/A tail lights, Sequential turn signals.
And definitely keep us updated!! 
