well i stole about 3 1/2 foot of some from my grandpa. actually he gave it to me but yeah its 3/8" im hoping it'll work.

Before:



After:



Installed:



While the engine was out I hit the bay with mean green soap and a pressure washer. After it dried I repainted the cross-member and battery box with POR15. It's not show quality, but made the install and working on it now muuuuch better.

that does look a lot better rhit_rs. just gettin all that grease and dirt off the fender wells and stuff makes it look 100% better.


got some updates. i will be painting the car soon, as soon as i can get a day where its at least 40* so i can turn on the garage heater. right now its 10* and way to cold. i got a lot of bondo work done ad its pretty much just ready for paint. my grandpa found a guy that had a 350 vortec out of a truck that rolled over and he i might be gettin it cheap so i might be pullin this engine out quicker than i thought!

Ive been watching this thread

Since you're deleting the HVAC system entirely, why not remove it from the interior side too? It will let you seal the heater core holes and free up plenty of room to hide more things like your IGN box

For a carb car, this is all you really need: IGN/starter and gauges
Much like ghettocruiser stated, its barebones


Im not sure for older cars but 90-92 cars use a separate harness for front lights
Wire sorting shouldnt be too bad

hey pocket, im going to be pulling all that heater core crap out as soon as i make myself do it. and yes about the front light things, i planned on drilling a hole that leads under the fender well, and ill run the wires under the fender well, and over the inner liner. i was going to leave one of those heater core holes ungluged so i can run the alternator wires through it. i have pictures coming soon to all you people following this thread.

i have a few questions about my AFPR though.. what kind of fittings am i going to need to use? anybody have a site for summit or something?

okay i got the bay painted. its a low gloss black, so its not completely flat, but its not glowing either. one good thing i like about using a rattle can is because when i put the engine, ill prolly scratch the hell out of it. so all i gotta do it spray it once and its brand new again

Looks good so far, make sure you put a coat or two on the Rad Support too. Thats one place rust likes to eat away at.


Im in the process of painting my Engine Bay aswell, but Im rattle canning it Metallic Silver. I still have alot of wires to go through, because Im switching from a 2.8l V6 to a Carbd 400. If you dont mind I might throw some pics up for people to help me swift through a few wires Im sitll unsure of.

Stippy17, go ahead. ill tell you your gonna get rid of 98% of your wires lol. id love to see pictures of your work though so yeah post some pics!

Ok, this is what it looked like:

Sorry about the quality of the pics, the lighting (And haze) in the garage is terrible. :/

looks about like mine did lol. just be patient with it and do your best quality of work on everything you do. itll all pay off in the end. to paint it all i did was take a scuff pad and scuffed the hell out of it. just get all the shine away, then i put about 3 coats of primer and let it sit for a day. then i put one coat of black on, let it sit 15 mins, put another one, let it sit 15 mins, then put the third on. let it sit a day. is that how you painted yours or did you do somethin different? when it was all dry and it was fine. im just taking my time. i put maybe 60 hours into it so far.

The alt wiring runs thru the c100 bulkhead where your front lights harness plugs in. It is the left-most bundle in the pic I posted. You wont need a hole thru the firewall for it

Stippy, You will have a MUCH easier time sorting wire with the harness removed from the car
Its very simple since the engine is already out
The C100 (near the booster) is held on by a 1/4" bolt
The ECM and C207 are under the pass side of the dash, unplug these and push the couplers thru the hole near the fender

oh! okay good deal, i havent gone through my wiring harness yet so i dont know where anything is. i got my gas pedal hooked up again, got my power brake booster hooked up to the brake pedal and im wanting to run brake lines so i havent hooked them up yet. got the wiper moter all hooked up again, and got everything painted so im absolutely done painting everything!ill have pics tonight though. i ran my headlight wiring harness through a hole in the metal under the kickpanel, and ran it under the fender well, through that little hle is where you can get to your side blinker and horns. its really hidden and im glad its out of the way. next thing i gotta do is buy the fittings for the AFPR and ill be ready to drop the engine soon.. anybody know where i can get those fittings without buying them off the internet?? NAPA?? i dont think autozone has them.. maybe im wrong.

here's mine..



soon to be a magnacharged ls1.

fueled soul...your strut mounts and gear box, painted, chrome, anodized alum.? I can't tell from the pics

painted the headlight bezels and stuff. where the firewall was patched, those 2 scratches are covered now.

Alright now that the side job I was doing with my dad is out of the garage (4 Struts on a Nissan Maxima) I can put my car back in and start the work on the engine bay again.



Tonight I removed the Crash Bar from the front of the car. I dont recommend doing it, especially if it's a daily driver like mine will be, but it's something to take weight off of the front of my car. I know the consequences of not having a Crash Bar, but anyone thinking about doing the same thing needs to understand too.

Anyway, I deleted the Charcoal Canister tonight too, which was on the passenger side because the car was a V6. Now the line coming off the Canister, is that a fuel return line? If it is, instead of deleting it can I use that as a fuel line? My original fuel lines are in need of replacing, but this return line is in decent shape.

Ill also need to pick up battery cables out of a V8 car, because the battery in a V6 is on the drivers side and in a V8 on the passengers side. Basically I dont need the extra 2 ft. of battery cable in my engine bay, since Im relocating the battery to the passenger side for now. Eventually Ill move the battery to the hatch.

picture of my plate that i custom built to cover the hood latch stuff. got the heater pulled out. after pulling out the dash i thought maybe i should just buy the new dash out of a camaro or firebird. so im now looking for a dash from a 93-02 camaro or t/a. just bought a very ncie cener console over ebay from a 2000 t/a for 20 bucks!!

so all the dash, including the cluster, and the center console as seen in pics is for sale.

if anybody has a 93-02 dash then let me know.

Man I wish I had the guts/patience to remove my entire dash and clean it out.

Since Im not using any stock gauges, or any of the old ECM stuff, I could really clean things up. The LS1 wire is all in its own spot, and all my autometer gauges have a separate harness. HVAC is a separate harness. Radio...speakers are separate, and Im sure I could make the power separate. Then all Ide have inside is for lights, power windows, and other little odds and ends.

Maybe when I build my power lock harness Ill pull the dash and yank all that crap...man I wish I had a garage that was suitable for winter work!

J.

Stippy. Just a thought but would it not be wise to stick some kinda "brace" to (tie) the front rails together for body flex. I gotta believe removing structural stuff like that will make the whole front end flex. Can only imagine hard turning loads in parking lots and such. Any one else?
Shaggy

The crash bar is for accidents. Im sure it has SOME structural integrity, but I have a UMI Wonderbar, and I will be buying a 3 Point Strut Tower Brace. Between those two, and the sway bar, I should have no real body flex. Now if I ever get in an accident being there is no crash plastic/bar all the damage will be to my rad support with nothing to cushion the crash. I am keeping the plastic, bar, and bolts/nuts just in case I want to reinstall it.

Crash bars keep the front/rear from spreading and compressing during an impact, they do not absorb anything

I would highly recommend putting it back on all cars that are not 100% strip only

hey stippy how much you pay for that STB? id like to get one. anybody have one for sale kinda cheap?? thansk everyone!

so i picked up the engine today. put it on the hiost. ill start pullin crap apart tomorrow. all im doing is replacing all the gaskets on the top end, and i gotta go to winners circle to get my plate to adapt my carb to my intake. bought a fuel pump that bolts on the side of the engine instead of the AFPR. its a lot cheaper to go with the fuel pump. when i drop the engine in that i actually WANT, ill spend a little extra money and get things lookin nice. planned on deleting my a/c compressor, and using new brackets and getting v-belts, but ill just buy an a/c delete pully for now. obviously this is cheaper as well. like i said when i drop in the engine i want, ill spend the 200 bucks on new brackets and pulleys. pics tomorrow! should be in and running in about 2-3 weeks, depending on how fast people plan on shipping things!

few questions id like answered.. im going to rig up a torque converter lock up switch.. when do i turn the switch on and off? should i keep it on all the time or only in 4th gear or what? answers would be helpful! thanks guys.

I havent bought a STB yet, but I plan on most likely buying the Edelbrock 3 Point STB. I already have my UMI Wonderbar tho.



Got a little more done tonight. Installed my brake pedal, and removed the old V6 Mounts. I fought them long and hard for a good 2 hours but I got them eventually. Now I have to reroute my brake line to the rear of the crossmember before I install my V8 Mounts, because the V6 & V8 Mounts are located opposite from one another on the crossmember. (V6 Mounts sit closer to Firewall/V8 Mounts sit closer to Rad Support)

Tomorrow I plan on dropping the gas tank to get it ready for a Carb'd Motor, and I want to paint it while its down. Also want to move brake line, and install V8 Mounts. I may remove the Rear Bumper and pull the Crash Plastic out. Im going to leave the Crash Bar on the rear, because I want to keep some weight back there.

most recent pic i have, sorry its a little dark

i still have to figure out the darn radiator hose....

whered you get the STB 86T/A? how much did you pay for it?

here's mine

how many horses you pushin hotrod?

i have no idea.i haven't took it to dyno yet

i took my fron bumper and fenders off to clean mine all the way and it looks pretty good

Your Engine bay looks great. Makes me want to pull my mine to repaint the bay...too bad I don't have a second car... Anyway, don't mean to be off topic here, but I saw you had replaced the entire steering assembly. What kind of gearbox did you go with, and how does it feel compared to the old one? I'm wondering because I got a front end rebuild but the steering still feels loose, so I think the box needs to go. My mechanic said it still has some adjustment left in it though and that I am just used to modern rack and pinion steering...

Thanks man, i went with a Z code box it came off one of my irocz parts car. i believe its the quickest ratio box offered on 3rdgens. i think theres two different versions though do to wheel size the internal stops are different im kinda lacking in steering box info since i found what i was looking for awhile back so my knowledge is rough. besides going with the box i went with new inner and outer tie rods, center link, idler arm, polyurethane boots and edelbrock tie rod sleeves

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/bo...-up-start.html (My ground up (Start to finish) thread)
more pics and info there etc.

i really wished i fab up a rack setup instead. its lighter and less parts to worrie about

Here is mine...still working on it:

fueledsoul im lookin to replace my front end stuff to, how much did you pay for those parts you got in your picture?

I just used a vacuum

Moog AMGK6145T $29.39
Moog AMGK6145T $29.39
Summit SUM-TR-2227L $26.95
Summit SUM-TR-2227L $26.95
Summit SUM-TR-2226R $26.95
Summit SUM-TR-2226R $26.95
Energy Suspension 9-13101G $3.95
Energy Suspension 9-13101G $3.95
Edelbrock 5250 $37.95
PST GNSP00246 $47.00
PST GNSP00147D $47.00

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-521-21-chevr...o-1982-92.aspx
http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-4174-33-chev...o-1967-92.aspx

thanks for the parts list man! lol

yea, money better spent on a rack lol next round im going rack

Here's what I'm starting with.

wow.....i got a 350 crate engine and a holley 4 barrel carb and i have like 2 times as much wires as you guys. hmm im guessing i need to remove te 305 wireing a stock wireing stuff and all that lol

There are some pretty nice looking bays out there. I was on the fence when I painted my car. I wanted to change the color to silver, but that meant pulling the new engine out. The bay was/is still factory painted and looks pretty decent considering there is over 100,000 miles on the chassis.

So, I opted to keep the original color. This is the first red car I have ever owned and I have owned over 20 cars in my life... so far.

Alright sorry the update has been awhile, the strap holding the tranny broke while i was putting the driveshaft in and the tranny fell and cut half my finger off, so ive been down for awhile. i have gotten some work done though. got the brake lines hooked back up, got the engine painted, pullys painted, got the carb, and got a new distributer.

now as you can tell i feel like a r!cer lol. the engine is only a 305 for now so i painted it and put some valve covers on it. thats why i feel rice (Put something shinny on that does absolutely nothing performance wise but makes it look fast lol)

heres the before and after pics.

did you even clean that engine before you painted it????

holy **** man, hope your all right,need to be really careful at this stuff, looking good though.

yes i cleaned the engine before i painted it. got all the grease off it, didnt worry to much about the oil pan though since you cant really see it.

yeah i get the stiches out monday and the engine was spose to go in yesterday but me and my dad got into a lil arguement so it has to wait till today or tomorrow.

Amazing what you can do with brake parts cleaner, some shop rags, auto paint, and some elbow grease...

red 406 .... engine bay looks good! I really like that aluminum overflow can that you have. Where did you get it? or did you make it? It's just what i'm looking for to finish my project. Thanks, luke.

Thanks for the compliment. My wife bought the overflow bottle for me. (cool wife huh?) Here is the coolant bottle. http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...ion&key=80-223

Mine finally looks good

guess were ready for an update. well like i said the transmission fell and cut my finger, well when the trany fell it fell 2 feet and smashed the torque converter into the ground. we picked the tranny up, put the driveshaft back in it and strapped it up. well we found out that whoever owned this car before me didnt even put the ****in bolts back in the tranny crossmember so it was just laying on top of it.

well me and dad put the engine in yesterday, put the bellhousing bolts in, the motor mount bolts, then went to put the torque converter bolts back in and we couldnt get the engine to turn over to line the bolts back up. it was like the engine was locked up. so we pulled the engine back out again, and found out the torque conveter wasnt going in all the way? it goes in 2 stages then wont go in anymore? so i tried to find out why the hell it wast going in all the way and then found out that the tranny is locked up. i couldnt even put my shifter into drive. i had a 16" pipe wrench on the second stage gear and i couldnt budge it. (dont bitch that i had a pipe wrench on it) so i pulled the tranny out today and i gotta take it somewhere to get it looked at. but if i gotta spend any money what-so-ever im just gonna take a drive to my grandpas house and steal one of his. he has like 4 700r's layin around.

so anyway the engine looked damn good sittin in there all bolted up. looks like this is going to take a little longer than expected. urghh...!