Auto Detailing and AppearanceTips and tricks on how to make your Third Gen shine! Get opinions on products or how something tasteful looks on your Chevrolet Camaro or Pontiac Firebird.
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i was gonna go with the aluminum color but was told that it doesnt look that good..so im really lost..the car is white now but i dont really want it white again
The yellow would be the easiest to spray and probably turn out shinny. Red will fade to quickly. The Blue or green might work also. Black is hard to spray.
__________________ A few pics and Info about My Car.
No, but yellow is realitively easy to spray in general. You can get automotive paint for just a little more. There is a guy painting his right now with rustolem, and one other that has already. Search for the word and you should find it.
__________________ A few pics and Info about My Car.
do you have any experiences with painting with rustoleum?
Yes.....Any other color would be fine. Red works great. You can also mix colors to get a custom color. It's just that the Rustoleum silver just doesn't cover evenly.
__________________ 1988 Drop Top RS... LT-1/700R4/3.23 1LE brakes all around behind polished Y2K's, 36/24mm sway bars, wonder bar, koni yellows, and a few other "goodies"
....still sporting trailer park 5 color paint for now. 88 RS vert build thread
The yellow would be the easiest to spray and probably turn out shinny. Red will fade to quickly. The Blue or green might work also. Black is hard to spray.
I've seen a car painted with yellow Rustoleum and it wasn't even close to being shiny.
A friend did a cutlass in high school with yellow rustolem and it was real shiny. I think he used rattle cans also. Who knows how much wax he had on the car to get it shiny though.
__________________ A few pics and Info about My Car.
Yes.....Any other color would be fine. Red works great. You can also mix colors to get a custom color. It's just that the Rustoleum silver just doesn't cover evenly.
is it still gonna look bad if it was sprayed with a paint gun?...i just think red is a pretty big statement..
I've seen a car painted with yellow Rustoleum and it wasn't even close to being shiny.
If you just paint it and walk away from it it wont be shiny. And we're not talking rattle can job here either. It comes in a quarts and gallons. You HAVE to wet sand and buff it out to make it look right.
Here's my Rustoleum job after a good wet sand and buff:
__________________ 1988 Drop Top RS... LT-1/700R4/3.23 1LE brakes all around behind polished Y2K's, 36/24mm sway bars, wonder bar, koni yellows, and a few other "goodies"
....still sporting trailer park 5 color paint for now. 88 RS vert build thread
I didn't mean to imply that we were talking about rattle cans here just that is what he used. I guess my point is if you spend enough prep time and post pait work you can make it quite shiny.
I guess any paint system not sprayed in a paint booth it requires a good wet sand and polish to get rid of the dust that settles as it drys.
im still undecided...i really really wanted to do the silver...i cant get it past my head that you guys say its hard to paint..i just dont see why..i believe you dont get me wrong,...how does black turn out with rustoleum?
I'm not downing the idea of a low budget paint job but, if you're going through all the prep work to put on real paint and have the paint gun... why not just use real automotive paint ?
PPG Omni, Kirker, Dupont Delstar.... all are about the same price as using Rustoleum.
Any acrylic enamel paint with a catalyst will produce a better result than the oiled enamel that Rustoleum is.
I'm not dogging the idea but, if you're going through all the steps of a real paint job... put real paint on the car. Even if it's not the top of the line PPG or DuPont... it's still a better paint over Rustoleum.
Kirker, at least around my area, is just as cheap as Rustoleum and you can at least get a factory color instead of being limited to flat base colors.
Just my opinion though... it's not worth much..
__________________ "You're never too old to learn something stupid."
- '87 Formula Firebird - never ending project
- '91 RS Camaro - *sold
- '93 Z28 - donor
- '71 Camaro LT - as if I need another project.....
- '00 S-10 Xtreme ext cab... new beater
I'm not downing the idea of a low budget paint job but, if you're going through all the prep work to put on real paint and have the paint gun... why not just use real automotive paint ?
PPG Omni, Kirker, Dupont Delstar.... all are about the same price as using Rustoleum.
Any acrylic enamel paint with a catalyst will produce a better result than the oiled enamel that Rustoleum is.
I'm not dogging the idea but, if you're going through all the steps of a real paint job... put real paint on the car. Even if it's not the top of the line PPG or DuPont... it's still a better paint over Rustoleum.
Kirker, at least around my area, is just as cheap as Rustoleum and you can at least get a factory color instead of being limited to flat base colors.
Just my opinion though... it's not worth much..
My thoughts exactly. And I will be bold enough to dog it. I think this whole thing is just lame. Just go buy some Summit paint. It is good quality and cheap.
if i wanted these opinions i would have asked...i dont mean to be an *** or anything but i didnt ask for other ideas or other opinions..if you're gonna dog it dont bother replying, thanks
Well, the least you can do is tell us why in the world you would paint with rustoleoum rather than with normal car paint. I'd like to hear the madness behind this logic.
im 19..in college..and short on money...im willing to take the risk..my car needs paint bad and i would only be benefiting from it.....sorry but what kind of springs do you have on that black z?
You can get Summit Urethane paint for $80. This is great stuff. And if you don't have primer yet, another $40...total..$120. This would be the proper way to do it, and I am sure you would be much more happier in the long run.
im 19..in college..and short on money...im willing to take the risk..my car needs paint bad and i would only be benefiting from it.....sorry but what kind of springs do you have on that black z?
JAK! I have to agree that you have other options that are just as cheap and some maybe a little more money with a better result.
I just painted my car using all products from NAPA (Martin Senior Paint) and had around 500 total (high estimate) in the supplies.
I do have another suggestion! Do you have a Tractor supply store around you like a Rural King? They sell tractor paint in MANY different colors including silver. They also sell gloss hardner and even clear coat if you want. I have used the JD green on tractors before with the clear hardner and it actually came out pretty nice. It is about the same price as you will pay for the rustolium and might be something to look at.
Whatever you decide to do please keep us posted and throw in some pics so we can see how it turns out.
You can get Summit Urethane paint for $80. This is great stuff. And if you don't have primer yet, another $40...total..$120. This would be the proper way to do it, and I am sure you would be much more happier in the long run.
Even if its a little more you will spend the difference on wax and buffing pads shining that thing up every couple months. I'll admit for rustoleum it looks damn good though...but think in the long run.
Most silvers are hard to spray and not get uneven coverage, its all about thin even coats with enough build up. Silver in may ways is like metalic to spray you have to keep the direction the same through out the paint job or you end up with color differences. The gun metal gray on the botom of my car is the same if you change directions in the paint you can tell it once its dry.
Another thing to consider is get the car in a primer state with all the body work done. Take it to Maaco on their half price sell. It will turn out better than spraying it outside or a garage as they atleast use a spray booth and its something like $250 for one color.
__________________ A few pics and Info about My Car.
Take it to Maaco on their half price sell. It will turn out better than spraying it outside or a garage as they atleast use a spray booth.
.....And all your weatherstripping will be body colored too. Hell, they'll most likely add a coat or two to all of your side markers and tail lights at no extra charge.
__________________ 1988 Drop Top RS... LT-1/700R4/3.23 1LE brakes all around behind polished Y2K's, 36/24mm sway bars, wonder bar, koni yellows, and a few other "goodies"
....still sporting trailer park 5 color paint for now. 88 RS vert build thread
I agree with the people who say to stick with some type of auto paint. If you're going to go to all the trouble of prepping and painting the car why would use inferior paint when you can get the right paint for just a little more? Sure, it's not going to be high quality auto paint but at least it is actual auto paint and will be easier to work with because that's what it is designed for.
I've seen cars painted with Rustoleum and the finish is far from what you'll get with even low grade auto paint.
.....And all your weatherstripping will be body colored too. Hell, they'll most likely add a coat or two to all of your side markers and tail lights at no extra charge.
Unfortunately, that is a stigma attached to Macco through the experience of some people. Most people who speak bad about Macco, speak based on the experience of others, not personal issues.
Even though Macco is a national name like McDoanlds, every one is still independently owned.
Quality of the job comes from the people doing the work and weather those people enjoy what they do or, are just there to get a paycheck.
You could pay $3k for a paint job and still get bad results if the 'reputable local' shop still employed people that didn't give a damm about what they are doing.
if you are still set on rustoleum, and want something different, the go for the hammered finish.
that way you wont even have to do any body work...
the paint will cover it up
that being said, dont go to maaco, and dont use rustoleum.
get real car paint (even the cheap stuff) and you will be much more happy.
you can even do silver and it will look semi good.
the problem with silver is that it is essentially metallic grey, so you have to do it carefully.
ive never painted a car before but ive painted other metal things (desks, bikes, ect) and i can tell you that you want to stick to a flat color if its your first time.
that means no silver, no black, no metallics.
if you hesitiate while laying down the color it will show once it dries
you will have a spot with extra shiny stuff that ends up looking darker than the rest if its metallic or silver.
and as for black, forget being able to make it shine.
wont happen unless you are good at it.