I want to shave my door handles and was wondering if 35lb. selonoids would have enough pull to open them. I know it will be a pain in the *** but my dad is a body man so he can help me. I have all of the tools to do it,welder,grinders etc. I just want to know if any one has done this on a third gen and what problems i will run into. Thanks,Dave

im gettin mine shaved for free and poppers for 30 bux.im getitn it done next week,so if this threads still open ill tell ya what happened

If you've got the access/equipment... why not swap in something better and be original

http://www.deadbird.org/a/l10.jpg

Well first off ... is this going to be a daily driver? Sure 35 pound solenoids should be enough to pop the door open ... but I dont know how long they would last for every day use. Autolok, the guys who make the best kits on the market (www.autolok.com) list it like this:

50LBS - Trucks, Hot Rods, Custom Cars, Domestics, Imports
Everyday (Heavy)

35LBS - Bear Claw Latches,Trucks, Hot Rods, Custom Cars, Domestics, Imports
Weekends (Light)

I would go with the 50 pound solenoids to make sure it can handle every day usage.

I lookeed at the kits at auto lok and they cost a lot so i think ill have to see if the 35lb. selonoids will work. The autolok 50lb. kit is 299 and the 35lb kit i want it 125. big difference. they both work the same with the remote and the 125kit comes with popers. autolok sells the popers seperatly. considering im only 15 and dont have the extra money for the good stuff ill have to make the cheep stuff work.

My kit came from VPA. I think they are 25 lbs. I have had them for 3 years. Not worn out yet and they are not so powerful that they pop the door into the car next to it. So the 35lbs will prob work as well.

deadbird- Nice job on the doorhandles. That is what I've been planning as well. Did you have to buy a set of doors or did the junkyard let you cut sections out? What did they charge you for the handles? It looks really slick.

Firebird 383, thank you for the kind words. I got the doonors from a car out of a pull-a-part yard. I took some side cuts (not tin snips but, similar) to the yard and cut what skin I needed along with the handle still bolted to it and was charge $5 for the handle only. The only other comments I got was why I needed part of the doorskin with the handle.

If it weren't for my camera being an arse.. I'd post some different pics other than what everyone has seen for the past month or so.. I have actually started working on my car once again and have gotten the pass side almost ready for paint. I guess you can't expect a $120 kodak camera to work right forever tho...

I could've been a total copycat- I found a set of handles just like yours at the pick-a-part this morning, but I passed. I want to find a set from a late model Grand Prix. I'm dying to try out my 18V cordless sawzall...

:hail: I so wish I had one of those. Talk about having fun at the yards.

Hey deadbird, the handles look great! Are they functioning well for you?

I only have/had (I'm working on the pass side for paint currently) the pass side working and I have to say, it has to be one of the most appreciated mods I've done to the car over anything. The feel the handle gives as it 'pops' the latch is the same sound/feel of my brothers '01 Cirrus.

Firebird... copy if you wish.. I'm not gonna b-tch. I will say this though.. while sawzalls are quite the fun tool.. they aren't that great for cutting thin metals such as doorskins even with the right blade so, if you do happen across that perfect handle/skin.. cut very wide.. you'll find out what I mean.

Hehe, Sawzalls rule...esp cordless ones !!!

Redraif and I once cut a 1/4 panel off a wagon in a salvage yard with my Sawzall...had to rent a generator from Home Depot to run it...what a PITA! But we did get a LOT of looks from other people in the yard!

BTW Deadbird, your handles look pretty cool. I am debating about shaved vs different handles on my next project (not an F-body), and you just made that decision a little tougher!

ask and you shall receive: http://www.transamtemple.com/modific...or_handles.htm

P.S. - this guy is a freakin genius!

WOW! Ya hear that!! FREAKIN GENIUS! LOL!

I ain't no frickin genius; I'm just a *****, errr "customizer" that likes my car my way - far, far away from stock...

I'm glad you like it though!

S.

yeah, you got some good ideas man. nice job with the writeups too. you should submit some of your stuff to this site's tech section

Steve your website is very nice. I want to sit down when I get a break b/w mods and go through it. From what I have seen, you have done a great job explaining things. Keep it up. I wish mine was that nice. Its just me rambling about what I have done, though I'm trying to reorganize it.

I think I've made it to uncomprehensive babble with mine lol

Nice car and nice site...I bookmarked it so I can go back and study later!

btw weren't customizers the first ricers?

Hi! I also have the VPA Shaved door handles kit. Unfortunately, mine came with my car and the other guy started the installation. I have no idea how to connect the solenoid to the door latch. It has something to do with the hooks and split screw that comes with it, but I can't figure it out.
Do you have any pictures of yours, or a good diagram? The instructions that came with it don't show a clear picture of how the cable is connected to the latch.
Thanks so much!

Chris

when i had mine done we put 40 lbs in to make it easier for the actuator and to last longer

Chris, you might want to do another search for something a little more recent. The thread you commented is 7 years old and those guys may not be around anymore. Or if you can post a pic or scan of your directions maybe we can help you figure it out. Good luck.

Thanks! I just noticed the year after I posted my question. I also sent a PM, but haven't received a reply there, either.
Here's a copy of some of the instructions. It's the diagram with the "hook assy" in the middle of the page. There is a braided metal cable coming out of the solenoid, that attaches somehow to this hook assy. but I can't figure out how.

Chris

Does the hook and cable run thru the slotted screw from oposite directions and then it holds the two together? Man you're right their diagrams kinds suck.

it also looks like they were written for a door lock not a door latch release.

Thank you! Yes, it's the shaved door instructions, but the remote/receiver has 4 channels, so I intend to use it to first unlock the doors and then have the doors "pop" open. I'm not shaving the handles, I just want to be able to remotely unlock the doors and, well, you know.
I've been trying to get the company to explain it, but it seems there is only one guy doing tech support, so forget about getting him on the phone, and the emails come one a day...and he's still not being clear.
I like your idea. I'm missing one of the split screws, but tech support says you can get them in any hardware store, because they don't sell anything directly, and don't ask them for anything for free....

Chris

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/715283/10

Dont worry yourself with the split bolt idea... they failed when I used them... They allowed the nut to keep loosening up and the hook shaft and solenoid cable would slide past one another and it would not have enough pull to get the door latch to release... It would give you the half pull. I instead used a bolt and drilled a hole right behind the head. This would stop the old problem of the legs of the bolt squishing together and loosening it up.

I have been locked out of my cardomain site for 3 years due to a software glitch. I was originally told by cardomain (due to the size of my original site) to split it up. I did. Then they upgraded and the new software which limited how many sites could be tied to a single email address. So I was locked out due to too many ride pages.

I have loaded the pics on my page at the bottom. I will go over them and try to place them where they need to go. Sorry my pm was so short yesterday. Lunch ended and I had to jump off but wanted to get you the info...

Just got done moving pics around on the site hope this helps

How would you like it if I came along and shaved your ears off?

It should be made a crime to mutilate beautifull stock 3rd gens!

Wow and your complete unsolicited, uneeded, & unwanted addition to this thread should be a crime. This is not some "rate my ride", "do you think if I should", or "do you like it when" thread. Its a technical thread where people are asking for TECHNICAL information.

Please stay on topic or move along and go troll on another thread! Thanks!

I don't think the person asking for help wanted the thread buried in these types of replies.

Thanks again for all the information. I did put the solenoids in today and connected them to the door latches. I used the split screws because I didn't have an alternative. I might go to the hardware store with them and see if they have a suggestion for a better connection. But I have to admit, when I hit them with 12V, they both popped the doors open...don't know how long it will last, but it's OK for now.
As for the, er, gentleman who remarked about the shaved door handles, be assured I am keeping mine on. I just want the doors to unlock, and then pop open, when I hit the remote.

Chris

For connecting the cable, you could use the crimp style wire connectors. That's what my door kit came with. Its a small piece of metal that looks like 2 tubes attached along their sides. Kinda looks like a figure "8" when viewed from the end. You slide the cable in one side, loop it around the lever, then back through the other half of the connector and then crush it with wire crimps or visegrips. I haven't had any problems with my doors opening and my Camaro is my daily driver from May to November.



Offtopic - Redraif, I love what you did with the interior of your 'bird.

Ok, I'm sure the hardware store must have something like that. The thing is, I have to connect the braided metal wire to that hook thingie that came with the set. But I'm sure there's something out there for me.
Thanks!

Chris

Mine worked for a few weeks and then started to loosen up and slipping. Also when you shut the door with the poppers be sure the doors shut all the way. The dealer managed to kill my battery one day when I first installed them. (car was in for a bad/leaky cold start injector)

My only issue with this is that there is no room for adjustment. You have to have the cable spot on from the get go. I had issues dialing mine in when I first set it up. And with the VPA system I would leave room for adjustment. Plus some if you go to sell the car you might want to take out the system. For another car, or it might be a deturant for some buyers.


Thanks. I miss being able to show the car and drive it everyday. (X-best friend and I had a falling out in the middle of an extreme engine makeover and the car is still sitting waiting on a painter to fix the engine bay paint.)

Then I have to remake the brake lines & fuel lines, finish the wiring reroute. (all the stuff my best friend started while I was porting my new heads and then bailed on after he destroyed my stock stuff) UGH!

I used a nut and bolt that was actually a left over from the kit. Not hard at all to drill and oval hole in the bolt shaft. Just use a vise to hold it in place as you drill. I used a file to scuff the surface to make it less round to get the drill bit to bite.

Good tip! However, my car doesn't have any interior lighting when the doors open, so no worries. I did notice you have to really close the door good or it stays open a bit.

Chris

You know, your solution makes a lot more sense than that split bolt they gave me. You'd think these "scientists" would come up with something as smart.

Chris