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Mighty Demon 850
Dart Iron Eagles fully ported 2.08/1.60 valves
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
256/262 .600/.600 Erson solid roller
NWC T5 (can you believe it ?)
MSD Digital6 ignition
Full exhaust
LED dash
LED tail lights and 3rd brakelight
17 inch chrome IROCs
Nitto 555 drag radials
1989 White IROC-Z
383 Super Ram, AFR 190's, LPE 219, Worked 700R4
Eibach springs, Koni 12 ways, More...
Sponsored By: Year One, Hawks Thirdgen Parts,
Dynamat, RPM Resto & Custom
Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - April 2003
GM High Tech Performance - March 2006
Chevy Rumble - Summer 2006 Steel And Skin Photoshoot - July 2006
sorry guys tomorrow definitely, i was all caught up in unpacking from school and getting my car prepared to fail inspection another time. as soon as i go to inspection i'll work on the gauges and get som enew pics of my car as well. i understand that the DIY verseion might be brighter but hey, for the amount of time and money i plan on spending on this project i definitely will not complain.
I saw earlier in this post someone referred to these. I haven't read the tech article in a while, but can someone explain to me what they are and how they are used in the DIY lights?
Thanks
1989 White IROC-Z
383 Super Ram, AFR 190's, LPE 219, Worked 700R4
Eibach springs, Koni 12 ways, More...
Sponsored By: Year One, Hawks Thirdgen Parts,
Dynamat, RPM Resto & Custom
Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - April 2003
GM High Tech Performance - March 2006
Chevy Rumble - Summer 2006 Steel And Skin Photoshoot - July 2006
yea there is a tech article in the tech article section on the homepage of the boards. OK guys, white faced gauges and red LED's are in and it looks killer :hail: . Can't really tell what the lights look like cuz its still light out heh, but tonight definitely expect to see a bunch of pictures of my setup.
1989 White IROC-Z
383 Super Ram, AFR 190's, LPE 219, Worked 700R4
Eibach springs, Koni 12 ways, More...
Sponsored By: Year One, Hawks Thirdgen Parts,
Dynamat, RPM Resto & Custom
Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - April 2003
GM High Tech Performance - March 2006
Chevy Rumble - Summer 2006 Steel And Skin Photoshoot - July 2006
alright so here's the deal, my white faced gauges and red LED lights are in, but i was riding with my local first aid squad tonight and too many people were doing assanine thing so i never got a chacne to take pictures. The plastic lens and bezel covers and all that are still off so i'll take pictures of that, and then at night post pictures of what it looks like. Overall it looks ok, seems a little blotchy but not bad overall with the white faced gauges. I'll post pics tomorrow, sorry for the delay!
Hey how many bulbs are there in the HVAC controls? I want to get the LED's for those too when I order mine. I'm having trouble finding them though. I would like to get some 10,000 MCD blue ones if I can. Does anyone know if 1 per socket will be enough with this intensity or should I still go with 2? Also what's the viewing angle on these? I can't find it anywhere. Would I be better off using a lower MCD with a higher viewing angle if I use 2 per socket?
Also still waiting to see those red ones just in case I want to change my mind.
1989 White IROC-Z
383 Super Ram, AFR 190's, LPE 219, Worked 700R4
Eibach springs, Koni 12 ways, More...
Sponsored By: Year One, Hawks Thirdgen Parts,
Dynamat, RPM Resto & Custom
Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - April 2003
GM High Tech Performance - March 2006
Chevy Rumble - Summer 2006 Steel And Skin Photoshoot - July 2006
Well I can't find em anywhere. I found some that are rated at 5,000-6,500 but with only a viewing angle of 15*. Do you guys think this will work if I use 2-4 per socket?
1989 White IROC-Z
383 Super Ram, AFR 190's, LPE 219, Worked 700R4
Eibach springs, Koni 12 ways, More...
Sponsored By: Year One, Hawks Thirdgen Parts,
Dynamat, RPM Resto & Custom
Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - April 2003
GM High Tech Performance - March 2006
Chevy Rumble - Summer 2006 Steel And Skin Photoshoot - July 2006
i personally dont have a digi cam, and my friends can't seem to find their's, figures when you need it most right. If i don't get them this weekend i'll just take them off of a regular camera and have the pictures developed. And also due to the rain and my top being busted my car's been under the covers so water doesn't leak in which is also putting a damper on my projects
1989 White IROC-Z
383 Super Ram, AFR 190's, LPE 219, Worked 700R4
Eibach springs, Koni 12 ways, More...
Sponsored By: Year One, Hawks Thirdgen Parts,
Dynamat, RPM Resto & Custom
Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - April 2003
GM High Tech Performance - March 2006
Chevy Rumble - Summer 2006 Steel And Skin Photoshoot - July 2006
well i got pictures of my white faced gauges and lights during the day. I'll get the pictures at night to see what they look like in the dark and i'll post them all at once
Ok I just used the Buy Now option from one of this guy's auctions. He has the LED's that some of us need. Follow this link to one of his auctions and you can find his contact info.
1989 White IROC-Z
383 Super Ram, AFR 190's, LPE 219, Worked 700R4
Eibach springs, Koni 12 ways, More...
Sponsored By: Year One, Hawks Thirdgen Parts,
Dynamat, RPM Resto & Custom
Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - April 2003
GM High Tech Performance - March 2006
Chevy Rumble - Summer 2006 Steel And Skin Photoshoot - July 2006
alright well here are some pics, first start off with my car, i added the red IROC decals since the previous owner never put them back on after he repainted the car. I also added clear side markers, and new front turn signals. The picture was taken at the body shop that I'm workin at this summer, and please excuse how dirty she is, its been raining for like a week straight
Here's the LED lights and white faced gauges during the day with the bezel not on yet
Here's the white faced gauges with the bezel on and lights off
and lastly here's the lights with the bezel on at night, this pic is really crappy, i'm not sure how to take the picture properly.
anybody got any ideas on how to take it so that it comes up clearer? It's also a lot brighter in person than in the pic, but not as bright as i would like it to be. However for the amount of work that was put in it's not bad at all. I also plan on painting the back of the bezel red so that it reflects the color a little better.
Here's what blue LED's look like. These are not the plug-n-play 194 replacements. These are home made with 10,000 mcd LED's. I did this a few months ago.
The 194 replacements from superbrightleds.com aren't as bright; I'm running these in the gauges in the pillar pod because my source for the 10,000 mcd LED's isn't carring them anymore.
(My first picture posting...don't know if this will work or not).
Last edited by paulo57509; 05-25-2003 at 08:31 PM.
here is the picture paulo57509 was trying to post..
nikh23 how bright are the red ones V.S. the original bulbs?
to bad they didn't come out as bright as you had hoped.. I wonder if the blue would be brighter..
Last edited by FastElectrics; 05-25-2003 at 08:36 PM.
Paulo it's hard to tell how bright your lights are in the pic. Are they a little dim? Would you suggest I put 2 of the 10,000 mcd bulbs per socket?
Also does anyone know how many bulbs there are for the HVAC controls?
1989 White IROC-Z
383 Super Ram, AFR 190's, LPE 219, Worked 700R4
Eibach springs, Koni 12 ways, More...
Sponsored By: Year One, Hawks Thirdgen Parts,
Dynamat, RPM Resto & Custom
Media Coverage:
Chevy High Performance - April 2003
GM High Tech Performance - March 2006
Chevy Rumble - Summer 2006 Steel And Skin Photoshoot - July 2006
Hey man I have an 85, but converted to an 89 140 cluster. I was wondering as far as your hvac controls they are backlit correct? Do you happen to know what year they became backlit instead of having a light shine down on them like mine?
Ben
__________________ 86 GN - GT67, B&M Trans Cooler, Built Trans w/ many upgraded parts, 3200 Vigilate Stall, CAI, RJC Power Plate, 3.5" THDP, DMH electric cutout, home built 3" mandrel bent exhaust w/ spintech muffler, Translator Plus, 3.5" MAF, q-boost controller, Walbro GSS340M, hotwire kit, 60#injectors, and 275 60 15 ET Street Radials out back.
On the way- Powerstroke(mounted, but needs plumbing ran), and Alky. (hopefully ported heads before too long)
13.035 @ 102.28 on stock turbo and ic on pump gas w/ 1.77 60 ft.
Originally posted by Paul Riccioli Jr Paulo it's hard to tell how bright your lights are in the pic. Are they a little dim? Would you suggest I put 2 of the 10,000 mcd bulbs per socket?
Also does anyone know how many bulbs there are for the HVAC controls?
FastElectrics: Thanks for the assist. :hail:
Paul Riccioli Jr: It's not really that dim. The gauges are easily readable at night. There is one bulb that illuminates the heater controls.
I read someplace that blue is the absolute worst color for illuminating things indirectly (that's why "Cool Blue" headlights are so feeble at lighting the road). It might be a different story if your gauges are back-lit. If I had to do it over, I'd try two blue 10,000 mcd LED's. If red was available in that intensity, I'd go with red.
One thing to keep in mind when shopping LED's. When LED's are manufactured, they are sorted by brightness. One part number can have a range of intensities. If you look at the data sheet for the 10,000 mcd LED's that I used, they range in brightness from a minimum of 4,650 mcd to a maximum of 10,000 mcd. As the LED's come off the assembly line, they are tested and sorted into bins depending upon intensities. Some people may advertise 10,000 mcd, but it really depends on which "bin" the LED's were sorted into and which bins they're picking from.
I'm sure I'll tire of the blue color eventually. I'll probably just go back to regular bulbs; 194NA's.
The nice thing about going this route is that you can use any LED/resistor combnation you prefer. With a bit of lead forming, you can also mount two LED's.
The bad thing about it is trying to get totally opaque artwork; my traces are a bit pitted. There is also some initial cost in etching chemicals, photo reactive PC boards, and a UV light source.
The PC board is slightly thicker than the wedge base of a 194, but it fits into the bulb sockets.
I'm not a PC board designer, so please forgive the lack of radii on the traces, etc.
Here's a link to the photo in case it doesn't attach properly:
hey gibbs the ones i got were the quad LED bulbs, they plug right in. They def aren't as bright as the DIY ones. You also can't really tell from my pics either but i'll try to get better ones.
I would be interested in if anyone has used the 4 led combo also. I know that they say that they are brighter on the site, but they also say that they aim more straight forward and dont have a very wide dispersion pattern. I have a 89 GTA cluster(backlit) and am just not sure where all the light is required from the bulb. It looks almost like it just needs to shine in the ends of the plastic, but maybe not.
Originally posted by nikh23 hey gibbs the ones i got were the quad LED bulbs, they plug right in. They def aren't as bright as the DIY ones. You also can't really tell from my pics either but i'll try to get better ones.
Oops, I think I was posting about the same time as you. On my brothers RS he says the light is backlit and shines around the edges. It appears that your overlays only shine around the edges. Is this right? If so then it might be brighter if you had stock overlays or ones that at least allowed the light to shine through.
yea it does seem to be illuminate the edges, but if you look at it in person it fills up the overlay decently. The overlay is also the glossy paper stuff so it reflects it a little better i assume. Like i said i'll also paint the back of the metal bezel red so that it'll hopefully reflect the light a little better.
Originally posted by dsaint1347 Think you can mass produce these lights paulo57509? I'll buy a set.
When I started the project I did bounce around the idea of selling them. About half-way through, I found out that you can get them already made (like the superbright ones) and the air emptied from by bubble pretty quickly.
If anyone is interested in etching their own PC boards (a Google search will yield several good instructions), I'll gladly send them the AutoCAD file of the PC board. It's a 3"x5" array which should yield about 64 boards. Most raw boards come in smaller sizes, so you'll get a few less than 64 (believe me, after doing just the 13 or so for your Camaro, you're not going to want to do 50 more).
Since the dimensions of the board are some what critical, I don't know if a cut-and-paste into Word and then a conversion to .pdf will preserve the dimensional integerity of the original file.
Originally posted by Momar I would be interested in if anyone has used the 4 led combo also. I know that they say that they are brighter on the site, but they also say that they aim more straight forward and dont have a very wide dispersion pattern. I have a 89 GTA cluster(backlit) and am just not sure where all the light is required from the bulb. It looks almost like it just needs to shine in the ends of the plastic, but maybe not.
Ben
That is correct on the shining in the ends. I do have the 4 leds and I don't really care for the lights. At night you can see them just fine, but at dusk it's like they're not even on. I do believe it has to do with the dispersion pattern, and it not being the correct contour to get into the ends of the plastic. I may just try to find something to cover the original bulbs in blue.
Originally posted by DaGoat That is correct on the shining in the ends. I do have the 4 leds and I don't really care for the lights. At night you can see them just fine, but at dusk it's like they're not even on. I do believe it has to do with the dispersion pattern, and it not being the correct contour to get into the ends of the plastic. I may just try to find something to cover the original bulbs in blue.
I know this may be a little off the subject but maybe someone here can help. I have some red led's that I am wanting to put in my car for my center console so when I turn on my accessories these turn on as well to let me know the fuse is working. The positive lead has a red wire and the neg has a blue wire. These led's look like led's that are used in car alarms. Can anyone tell me how I would hook these up so they turn on with a switch. If anyone can help please let me know.
Originally posted by Gambit69 I know this may be a little off the subject but maybe someone here can help. I have some red led's that I am wanting to put in my car for my center console so when I turn on my accessories these turn on as well to let me know the fuse is working. The positive lead has a red wire and the neg has a blue wire. These led's look like led's that are used in car alarms. Can anyone tell me how I would hook these up so they turn on with a switch. If anyone can help please let me know.
If I remember correctly....I think you can just run the positive to your switch or powersource, hook the negative to the ground and then put the correct resistor on it.
It been a while since I had to actually work with LEDS and resistors and crap.
I looked at the bulbs behind my heater controls and the bulbs are very small. The 194 bulbs that you used to make yours blue in color, they are different than the 194 bulbs for the front side marker lights aren't they. I have a set of blue 194 bulbs for my side marker lights that I am waiting for my clear side marker lenses, and the bulbs look the same just about a quarter of the size. Let me know if this is correct about the size of the bulbs. The pic of the bulb you posted doesn't really show the size of the bulb just the shape of it.
I didnt change the bulbs for the turn signals. They looked the same to me though. I thought about it but if I had blue bulbs with the green plastic in the dash it wouldnt really come out the same blue.
The bulbs for the heater controls in mine are about the size of an LED. Is this the size of the bulbs in your heater controls to get the blue color. The bulbs for the side marker lights are about and inch long and are way to big for my heater controls. I hope this helps a bit about the size that I am talking about for the bulbs.
I didnt change the HVAC controls. I am not sure what bulbs are in there. You might be able to get the number off of the bulbs and see if http://www.superbrightleds.com can make them. I thought about seeing if they would make them for us. There is a big market for them. But I didnt know the bulb number.
If you didn't change these bulbs that I am talking about, then how did you get the heater controls to look blue instead of orange and also the buttons for defreost and hatch release. I really like the looks of the blue coloring better than the orange factory color.
How many LED's would i need to change out the dash and center consle? So far i have heard 9 in the dash and 2 for the floor lights but thats it. I plan on making all the lights inside my car blue. Thanks.
My dash... 
