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ok, well people are always messin with my b&m shifter,which mind u is a POS i shoulda gotten a hurst, ok well now the threads are all striped except the top 3, how would i go about rethreading it, i dont think it would work because then the shift knob wont be threaded the same, or the nut to adjust the tightness....erg, im so mad, someone give me some ideas on fixing it before i get really mad and take it out of my car
__________________ 1991 Z28- 350 tpi, 700r4, long tube headers, 3 inch y pipe, custom exhaust
Originally posted by hotrod87camaro why do you need to choose a new avatar?
that IS an avataar.
__________________ "know your roots"
New Project: 1991 v6 camaro, I want to hear a whissspooooh when I drive it.
The Hot Rod, 1985 TA: 4 bolt 350, ported and polished vortec heads with 3 angle valve job and screw in studs as well as guide plates, 1.6 roller rockers, cam, edelbrock vortect performer rpm intake, edelbrock 650 cfm carb, 1" 3/4' headers, custom exaust, etc. etc.
Originally posted by tyty49 just tap the threads to the threads on the shifter handle. And on you go
The problem with that is the threads are mostly gone, a thread tap won't add metal.
Chances are the shift handle is also stripped. Get a new handle. FYI, the hammer handle uses a steel insert threads(and is a much better handle IMO). Then screw it on the shift lever using plenty of HD locktite--you might even try leaving off the locking nut. It might be worth a try. You could, in the process ruin the Hammer handle though. If the shift lever must be replaced you can get a replacement. A quick trip to B&M's website, then to summitracing.com I came up with the part you need.
BMM-80695 Megashifter Short Stick Kit(2 in shorter Stick)
$39.95l
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i absolutely despise b&m products, but my megashifter is a pretty well built product, it's the damn shift linkage and bracket and cable that i hate about it...
i really didnt like my b&m its gave me alot of troubles, thanks 82camaro i needed that info, i guess ill buy the new short stick, wonder if its easier to shift with it being 2" shorter? i definally want a hammer shift knob, i saw yours and like the look of it, but my knob surpisingly isnt stripped, right now i have a thinner nut near the top and is working for now, thanks for the help guys
__________________ 1991 Z28- 350 tpi, 700r4, long tube headers, 3 inch y pipe, custom exhaust
You could always drill a small hole in the front of the handle and then put a small screw or bolt in there and tighten it down so it rests firmly against the flat part on the shifter. I'm willing to bet that might work.
you could try the JB Weld trick before you go buying parts after all it's free or at most 5 dollars for the JB Weld
just clean the threads on the stick real good, apply jb weld to the threads, put a little light oil on the threads inside the knob put some JB down in there and thread them toghther leave them together for like 24-30 hours then unthread, you should have new threads that may last a while just don't put the knob back on for a day or two then loctite it on when all done
the secret to this trick is in the timing of the removal of the knob you don't want to let the JB harden too much or take it off too soon there is only like a 4-6 hour window of oppurtunity for it to work well
humm, u have a very good idea, but i dont need to take the knob off anyway, so i could just us jb weld, or something not as "permenant" like contact cement to hold it on there, u really helped, thats what im gonna do
__________________ 1991 Z28- 350 tpi, 700r4, long tube headers, 3 inch y pipe, custom exhaust
well i went and used the jb weld on it, i figure i can use a pipe wrench to get it off if i ever need to, the stuff also worked good on the 2 inch long air leaki had around my blower motor high air flow now
__________________ 1991 Z28- 350 tpi, 700r4, long tube headers, 3 inch y pipe, custom exhaust
Originally posted by ontogenesis i absolutely despise b&m products, but my megashifter is a pretty well built product, it's the damn shift linkage and bracket and cable that i hate about it...
yeah, i've busted it twice myself (the linkage cable)
If the handle is steel (i'm assuming it is, but i dunno for sure) try to get your hands on a welder. You can add a metal bead to the inside on the threaded hole, which WILL add metal for you to re-tap.