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I absolutly love primer mobiles, and I'd like to keep mine that way (there isn't much more body work left!). That, and the fact that I don't want to pay for a nice paint job (if I get it painted, I want it top quality!)
A friend of mine has a paint gun, and I believe he said he would primer it for me again (all one color!), and once I do that, I would like to keep it looking nice. Primer seems to get "stained" with dark marks (as well as scratches!) and doesn't clean up to well.
Is there some sort of additive that can be mixed with primer to project it from stains and scratches? it scratches quite easy :-\ I asked some hotrodders who own hotrods that are black primer (TOTALY sick!!), and they said that to keep it from scratching, dont' scratch it (basicly, show cars... I guess)
I have been primered for almost 6 months now, and the GFX hasn't started to crack yet, so I assume that primer needs no flex additive for the urethane parts? or have I just been lucky?
Any particular brand/type of primer that would be best? Or does it really matter, because there isn't going to be any paint on top of it.
Thanks!
Daniel
__________________ 86 Iroc / mild cam / carbed 350 crate
less = more
I would use an epoxy primer for you application. Many of your urethane or polyester based primers will absorb moisture. Epoxy primer is just that...epoxy...good, tough stuff. What color primer do you want? Epoxy should not absorb moisture..
Originally posted by Error404 ahh, sorry about that
yes, I want to keep the dull look, want it to look just like primer, only with out the stains and scratches that form over time (weeks)
or is there a flat paint that could be sprayed on that will have no shine at all, and not scratch?
You could use flat rustoleum. Won't scratch easily, won't stain, resists rust, and will last a long time. You could probably buy a can and thin it out so you can spray it with a gun.
Matt
__________________
1987 IROC-Z 305/5 speed
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-305 block .040" (312 cid), Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons, stock rods; shot peened/polished with arp rod bolts
-Hedman shorties and Y pipe
-Hooker 3" Catback minus cat
-Edelbrock Vic Jr converted to MPFI; gasket matched, mild port and polish
-Holley 750cfm throttle body (modified)
-26lb/hr delphi fuel injectors
-Comp Cams Hyd. Roller cam 262hr-12
-Holley Annihilator CD ignition
-Holley LaserShot Pro coil
-Summit 8mm spiral pro wires
-Fluidamper 7" balancer
-Cast aluminum timing cover
-March Billet underdrive pulleys
-7730 ECM conversion and DIY PROM burning using TunerProRT and PPII
-World Products SR Torquer heads, full port and polish, Manley stainless 1.94/1.50 valves, high flow valve job
-GM 3.23 gears
-T5 swap
-Centerforce dual friction clutch
-VDO and autogage instruments in custom acrylic gauge panel
-Minor weight reduction including: A/C removed, smog removed, front sway bar removed, undercoating removed, stereo removed, most carpet padding removed, and wonder bar removed.
-255gph walbro in-tank fuel pump
-edelbrock fuel rails
PARTING OUT, CHECK OUT MY THREADS ON THE CLASSIFIEDS BOARD
you could use a flattening agent, but you would spend alot more $$$ than if you just used epoxy primer. Use Omni (PPG) MP170 epoxy primer with a mp175 hardner and you can reduce it up to 20% with a omni reducer.
flattening agent is not in itself very expensive but when you are considering that you are actually going through the whole process of painting your car it adds up you need primer, sealer, flex agent, paint, and so on because you use it just like a regular paint job
hm... well I was trying to get out of the expense of a full paint job. I honestly like primer better, it just happens to be cheaper. I grew up with primered hotrods with everything stripped off that wasn't needed, I guess thats where I'm coming from.
So, in light of these options, which would be cheapest? My friend has a paint gun, and I assume a paint gun can shoot any of this stuff? or is a special gun required?
__________________ 86 Iroc / mild cam / carbed 350 crate
less = more
you will not need to add any flex agent. Epoxy acts like a sealer, it "seals" the car. You do not have to put anything over it. If you ever want to repaint the car, you will have to scuff th epoxy and re-epoxy it and then paint the car within a couple of days because of chemical adhesion.
So, how much option in color do I have? I want a grey color, medium, a bit darker than what mine is now, like the color of the front nose (the rattle can crap)
possibly a little darker, and not so blueish looking (it looks a little bit blue in person, maybe thats just the light from the sky)
and, to wash the car, just wash like normal? water and carwash soap, and a spong? or would a stiff bristle brush be better?
Wow, haven't heard this kind of thing in a while. As some of the old hot rodders used to say, "If it's in primer, it's not finished- and a hot rod should never be finished".
__________________ -Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)