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I'm trying to put in a switch to disable the starter from cranking and I'm looking at the wiring diagram, I see a few options, but I have a few questions as well.
Wires that could be cut:
Purple, Green and Yellow ones; these are the main ones that run through the clutch safety switch and the purple one runs out to the starter solenoid. These wires are really thick, which leads me to believe that putting a switch on these would be a bad thing because of the amount of current that flows to the starter soldenoid.
Black/Yellow wire: This wire goes from the VATS into the starter enable relay. This is the one I'm leaning towards on cutting, provided I can find it. The only thing that worries me is whether or not cutting this and splicing more wire into it will vary the resistance that the VATS sees and will cause the security feature to disable the car. I don't think this will happen because I BELIEVE that this wire is after the decoding of the resistance value. I think I found this wire under the dash, but if anyone knows where it is, please let me know.
Pink Wire: This wire runs from the starter enable relay (after the VATS) and goes into the ignition switch. I can't find this wire. Actually there are two pink wires in plain sight coming out of the steering column, but I don't know which one is which. I believe the other pink wire is for the wiper/washer system.
I'm leaning towards the black/yellow wire, but if this would be bad, please let me know!
Thanks
Tony
P.S. I don't want to disable the spark or the fuel, just the starter, thanks.
__________________ Purple Haze 92' RS LO3 5-speed
Ported TBI, 55pph injectors, Edelbrock Intake, LT1 Cam, SLP Headers with elec. cutout and Hooker Catback, Full MSD Ignition, Nitto Drag Radials, LS1 D/S, 3.42 posi disc rear, Spohn LCA's and relocators, WBO2 & Prominator, 36/24 mm sway bars, 4" Cowl, Nitrous, 17x9.5/11" Gunmetal ZR1 wheels, Koni Yellows, C6 brakes, J&M Camber/Caster plates, WS6 springs. Up next: PHR, Roll bar, GC Weight jackers
Any of those wires will be fine. I would do the clutch switch, just because it is something different and an amature thief wouldn't think to check that.
The VATS wires will be fine to interrupt, you can have about a 10% variance in resistance and it will still work like it should. It is a 2 wire connector going down the bottom of the column, usually in a white vinyl jacket. Make sure you cut the wire on the BOTTOM side of the connector, closest to the VATS module. The upper side is a very thin copper cable surrounded by a fiberoptic type material. It will be very difficult to perminantly terminate once it is cut. It is all copper on the bottom side.
Most thieves who know anything about stealing will know to bypass the starter interupt on the purple wire, so I wouldn't go that route.
You could also interupt the pink or pink/black wire off of the coil. That will also keep the car from starting.
Good luck,
Matt
__________________
1987 IROC-Z 305/5 speed
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-305 block .040" (312 cid), Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons, stock rods; shot peened/polished with arp rod bolts
-Hedman shorties and Y pipe
-Hooker 3" Catback minus cat
-Edelbrock Vic Jr converted to MPFI; gasket matched, mild port and polish
-Holley 750cfm throttle body (modified)
-26lb/hr delphi fuel injectors
-Comp Cams Hyd. Roller cam 262hr-12
-Holley Annihilator CD ignition
-Holley LaserShot Pro coil
-Summit 8mm spiral pro wires
-Fluidamper 7" balancer
-Cast aluminum timing cover
-March Billet underdrive pulleys
-7730 ECM conversion and DIY PROM burning using TunerProRT and PPII
-World Products SR Torquer heads, full port and polish, Manley stainless 1.94/1.50 valves, high flow valve job
-GM 3.23 gears
-T5 swap
-Centerforce dual friction clutch
-VDO and autogage instruments in custom acrylic gauge panel
-Minor weight reduction including: A/C removed, smog removed, front sway bar removed, undercoating removed, stereo removed, most carpet padding removed, and wonder bar removed.
-255gph walbro in-tank fuel pump
-edelbrock fuel rails
PARTING OUT, CHECK OUT MY THREADS ON THE CLASSIFIEDS BOARD
I went the route of the VATS. There's a group of wires near the clutch switch going into a little black junction box. There's a big yellow one, big green one, another smaller yellowish one, and a black/yellow one, I put the switch on the black/yellow one, works like a charm