I want to know if you just like self etch then unercoat whatever, over rust will it come back 20 yrs later. I haven't done that ever in my job because I don't really want to take that chance. And I only want answers from people that actually know WHAT HAPPENS. no 2 cents here please.

itll slow the rust down b/c it wont have air to react with but its like cancer and will still eat away at the car. Only way to deal with rust is to completely remove it. Which usually calls for a cut off wheel and a mig welder.

lol, yeah I know all to much about that. the thing is, I cut out my drivers front floor pan and half the firewall. cause of rust. I had a rustout in the rocker panel (still have) and I can fix that but I looked through it and the insert or inner metal of the rocker was rusty. not a rust out though. I'll probobly grind off what I can reach and re-undercoat the hell out of it. parts like that all got rust on it, like the frame rails and places on the underside of the floorpan I guess it just takes rust longer to eat through that thickness of metal. or maybe the hts - htss steel has some natural corrosion resistance.

it will come back!!!!!!!the only cure is to repair it correctly,sand to bare metal,replace a portion from a good donor car weld in place..

that hole loooks awfully familar to the one in my drivers side floor, mine was caused by the car sitting with the t-tops off it for 4 years and the idiot of a owner just put a tarp over it!

Try POR-15 to fix rust!!!! Ive used it before, you just prepare the surface and paint right over the rust. Theres alot of people on the board that have used it and have had great success.

yeah I'm curious about that por 15 stuff. If it does what it says I would use it in the places where I can't grind or blast out rust. Does it do what it says? how does it work? what does the rust look like after you use the stuff?

The stuff works great. Basically it totally seals off the rust from air and prevents further rusting. http://www.por15.com/ Go there and they will have a full explanation of how it works.

When its finished it just looks like paint. I used black so it just looked like I painted over it with black, but I think you can get other colors now.

that's cool. I like their guarantee. I think it kinda has a zinc coating appeal to it. because moisture strengthens it and it can't be penetrated.

I just got out of the site and I don't want to go back in, does anyone know how much it is?

$95 a gallon. get the metal ready spray too. you spray that on 1st and let it foam up then rinse it off. only way to get the por15 resto paint to stick properly. DO NOT get metal ready on your skin. it stings like acid. and if you get por15 on your hand LOL it wont come off with soap or gojo or anything. it has to wear off... says it right on the can por15 is the greatest paint there is, never heard of anyone who didnt like it

would that stuff be similar to using epoxy primer? a good thick coat of that might work.

hmmm. I was waiting for you to say "just kidding" kontrax. 95 a gallon eh... that's up there. I don't think it's the same as epoxy primer, epoxy primer is closer to self etch. I've never used epoxy on metal but i believe that self etch is better cause it actually etches the metal, and if your using it on corrosion you can't get to it'd probobly be better.

can you just wipe off that metal ready? I don't like the idea of getting my rusty structural panels wet.

Is there any other place to get POR 15 for cheap? I only need to use a little bit.

http://www.por15.com/

or

http://www.prp-porstore.com/index.htm

It offered in pint and quart sizes as well as gallon. A little goes a long way. Get the marine clean as well, get rid of any surface grease.

Is this the right one to get? http://www.prp-porstore.com/merchant...ory_Code=POR15

They got a 4 oz. can which is perfect for me Should I also get metal ready and marine clean?

they offer a starter kit for $15 at the prp-porstore website. It includes the marine clean, metal ready, and a 4 oz thing of Por-15. it also has latex gloves and a few small paintbrushes. I'm planning on ordering soon, but i'm going for a larger quantity. I don't have much rust on my bird, but i figure I'll also use it on the rear axle and sway bars. I may even undercoat the entire car with it while I have the exhaust and rear out.

Buy the "sample" or "try-out" package,they have all 3 things,cleaner/prep/por-15
Kit cost's about 15 bucks,It gives you a good Idea of its effectivness,I personally swear by the stuff....You have to,living in MI..hehe

That stuff looks like it would work well on my rotting rear bumper support.
How is it applied? Do you need to mix it with thinner and spray with a paint gun, put it on with a brush, or what?

I just brushed mine on,you CAN spray it,be forwarned,it DOESNT come off your skin very well,so either way,wear all the protective gear(throw away) stuff ya can
It will help stop the rust/rot anywhere,if you follow the directions

Steve

no need to thin it,Laquer thinner comes in handy tho,I used it to clean off my arms!and any drips

What about Magnet Paints chassis saver???

They will send you a free sample of the stuff on a piece of metal and man is it neat. You can bend twist and crease the metal and the paint just says" give me some more" its just like por15.

And chassis saver is $20 cheaper a gallon.

http://magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

....

My son used the "Chassis Saver" on the underbody of his T'Bird Super Coupe,I could'nt see/find any real differences between por-15 and Chassis saver,They make the same claims(except you can use ANY primer on Chassis Saver),and if you look at the active ingrediants,they are exactly the same
IMHO,save your money,Buy Chassis Saver,I will in the future

Steve
Another good thing,Chassis Saver is sold at a lot of Auto paint supply stores here in the Detriot metro area,Makes it nice when you decide on your weekend project on Friday afternoon!

nothing works better then por15. you cant brush or spray it on. they offer it in quarts and half gallons, you dont need to buy a gallon. and no, im not kidding about the price. its worth it and i dont regret buying it for one minute. the stuff drys like plastic

I think i'm going to try it. Be prepared for my "How to get the rear bumper cover off" thread.

Is that opinion or fact? Do you have and links or information or it is just person opinion like only buying one brand of gas?

por15 has a better known name but why spend more for the same thing???

my own personal example:

People go nuts over Eastwood products but the powder coating they stick in a can with a fancy label I can get for half price in a plastic jug form a no name site.

Most of the stuff they sell can be found in harbor fright.

The same $80 bench grinder was at Anderson's for $30 and $20 at biglots. Most stuff they sell can be had else where for less. They just make it look fancy in a flash catalog and have a good name to pedal it with.

Everything I have gotten from them I could of gotten the same thing for less else where. I just paid more to get it from a popular named company.

i know most resto guys live by por15 products and eastwood stuff. ive tried a lot of other rust paints and por15 is the only one id use again. ive never heard of anyone not liking por15 resto paint. if you read auto restorer youll see all the articles about the stuff. all those guys live by it. it is a very nice product. IMO its the best stuff out there. you get what you pay for, right?

i promise you you will not find something like por15 on a shelf in autozone or anyplace like that. i know you can get it through other places besides direct from them, but there are no imatations of it out as far as i know

i haven't used it myself, but after all i've read on here and heard from friends i think i'll be getting some POR-15 really soon. My neighbor's girlfriend's dad(sound like a soap?) used it on a totally rusted out rolls-royce and its winning car shows right now.

granted it won't grow metal and again i haven't used it, but damn i'm picking up one of those starter kits. ~15 bucks what can i lose?

brandon

yeah I'll definitely get the starter kit too. I only need it for rust I can't replace, like around the mounting bolts on my rear bumper bar. and I'll probobly use it in cracks and crevices... after I sandblast it.

Does that damn thing rust on every thirdgen? I was just going to replace mine at first but the couple yards I called said they were rusted out. So its Por-15 time

actually my original one wasn't, which is surprising cause everything else is. lol. I had to replace mine cause mine was hit on the right corner and I couldn't straighten it. the one I got from a newer Z28 was though. beats me, just another curse of chevy not corrosion protecting EVERYTHING.

Is the starter kit a gloss or a flat black.

you get to pick what color you want. they offer gray and clear too