Window motor install.......THE EASY WAY....the tech article is bogus!
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I've been drilling holes thru the inner door for about 3 years now. I've done at least 4 cars this way (only one of my own) and aside from the initial cringe of the owner, there's no problem with it. Its the only way to go. Drill out the rivets, risk breaking the window, etc etc etc... no good. Drill some holes, save yourself some hours.
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Heres yoru template folks.......line up the rivets and the upper hole in the door (factory hole for you "hack job" Callers :P ) not like the door isnt full of holes to begin with lol.
__________________
Nick Silver http://www.nicksilver.com
Catch me on msn messenger: nickdkforward@hotmail.com
1990 IROC-Z B2L G92
1989 IROC-Z B2L CC1
i had to laugh when i saw this post. i just recently replaced the motor on my drivers side door and funniest thing..my hands are small enough to reach up and unscrew the motor and slip it out through the whole..then put the other one in and put the screws back in too..
i also agree with the few people that are against drilling holes in your car. i recently had to drill some in my bumper for my front plate and i almost cried. im against any of that and if i get the luxery of moving to another state were front plates arent an issue youd better believe im getting a new front clip.
i need one anyway mines crackd, but its one thing to need repairs on your car, its another to put holes there to make a job easier.
Replacing brushes would be all fine and great but the last motor I took apart (which was a replacement motor) had a 540 style motor that when it is done it is done.
So what about people that don't have power windows to begine with, but are planning to put some in there ( like me ). If I don't have the motors in the door then why would I hve rivets in the door? Does this mean that I won't have to drill holes?
You just saved me a couple hours of my life, and a few cuts and bruises as well. Just finished the job a little while ago; didn't take long at all.
I used to own a 1985 Ford Crown Victoria, which eventually needed a window motor. Right in the service manual, there is a procedure to drill three 1/2" holes in the inner doorskin, which then allows access to the 10mm bolts holding the motor in. There are even three dimples pre-made in the sheetmetal at the factory to guide you. It was a quick and easy job.
I know many of you GM guys don't like Fords, but forget that for a moment. There is a major automaker, with a car having a door of similar weight, age, and design........and they specify the exact same procedure Custom X has discovered.
call me an idiot but I still don't understand what the 3 other holes are for. I don't think it was really explained. I figured you could just drill out the 2 rivets holding the motor and it would drop out. Why the other holes??
Originally posted by Catchen22 So what about people that don't have power windows to begine with, but are planning to put some in there ( like me ). If I don't have the motors in the door then why would I hve rivets in the door? Does this mean that I won't have to drill holes?
On manual windows, GM attached the window crank to the regulator in the same way they attached the motor on power windows
In theory you could drill out the exact same rivets on your crank/regulator assembly & then replace the crank with an electric window motor
what? a "hack job"...why "clean" up holes that noone will ever see and screws will cover up thats ridiculous
congrats on being the first smart person to do this...i think saving time on car work is always a plus if you still get the job done properly and cleanly
NOONE SEES BEHIND YOUR DOOR PANELS!!!
someone has always got to be in opposition
i'd use a punch to guide the bit, and clean up the holes with a quick pass of a small file, takes an extra 30 seconds (literally) and you wouldn't even know they weren't there from the factory (unless you KNEW they weren't there from the factory)
calling this a hack job is ludicrous, and is just plain unjustified.
if this is a hack job, then installing a stereo would be a hack job in your eyes
shaving door handles and antenna's would be a hack job (hey, at least you're not adding plastic filler and crap to your car)
battery relocation? HACKJOB
SFC's, Relocator brackets, 4th gen interior swaps
HACKJOB HACKJOB HACKJOB
crap, half of the holes that the FACTORY drilled in your car to make it easier to assemble the thing would qualify as a hackjob.
pffffftttt..... I think not....
rear hump mod for the fuel pump = hackjob... this does not
my passenger window went out recently, and i haven't done it because i have huge hands and i KNEW it would be tough and take awhile... now that i know i can drop the motor independently i'll be doing this as soon as I get paid, thanks.
Custom X- Thanks for the alternate method. Nothing wrong with this at all.
88WS6- Relax. If this method doesn't suit you, Don't use it.
Vader- THANKS A LOT!
I am an HVAC tech and many of the repair jobs we do find alternate methods for acheiving the same results. Some of us do have smaller hands that can fit into tighter spaces and if you are lucky enough to have the dexterity to work in a small space, then do it. Otherwise you are bound to extra disassembly. Honestly, why take apart things that are not broken or not in the way? Many times the engineers at the tech assist lines are happy to hear of other methods to do an existing procedure. That is what information sharing is all about. That is what generates technical updates and repair part changes or improvements after a part has been available for years.
Vader- I jumped right on this. I found no retainer for the brushes. Do you know if there is a kit for this rebuild or if the motor end cap assemblies are still available thru GM? I imagine the same motor assembly wsa( or is )widely used amoing many models. Thanks again.
sweet baby jesus....i am actually excited about doing my pass window(is there somethine wrong with me), i was scared and now i am all pumped up for it, seems soo much easier looking, hopefully easier over all
and the hack job thing disturbed me...this is intellegence.....but now is it a hack job to cut a hole in the rear hump so you can get at your fuel cell gas cap?? cause if so i am a hack....darn!!
__________________ Mike
I drive nothing with less than 350 cubic inches....except my Celica Best of a 13.50 @ 107 Its like myspace BUT for gear heads
the pics i posted above are from the previous owner doing it wrong. I havent touched the motor; i just hold the window while it goes down....seems to be ok for now
Damn yall cant we all just get along? We are all thirdgenners here, lets save our hatred for the import kids.....
Im sure 88 WS6 has never tried to work on a thirdgen window or else he might have a different opinion. Ive had 2 pwr window thirdgens, both of which i took extensive time to lubricate and repair. 12 hours of my life that i will never get back.
In my opinion, the term "hack job" is a very relative term. Are you building a 6000 point concours show car? Then do it the right way, make sure you dont scratch the paint under the door panel, and wipe off your fingerprints. Hell you might even consider some latex gloves and a surgical scrubs to make sure youre doing it absolutely perfect. Are you building a street car? Dont worry about it then. Be careful, dont make unnessicary cuts or holes, but dont be afraid to cut here and there to make life easier on yourself.
My dad has an original 1948 MG T-C. There are less than 1200 of those cars that exist in the world and when he resored it, no expense was spared. Hell he even made sure the pushrods were the right color (no joke). When we work on that car, its like performing brain surgery. But on the other hand, we also have a 93 taurus that is our rain car. We substitute zip ties for wiring harness holders, there is duct tape holding the AC sticker on, etc... but we dont care because its a taurus. Its not a hack job, its how you work on a beater. Like i say, "hack job" is a very relative term
__________________ "Jenna"
88 T-top IROC-Z
L98, T-56
Too much to list...
hey guys i did this one my pass side about a year and half ago and it worked awesome. but i have a question, im going to be doin it on the driver side soon and when i pulled the panel off a while back i noticed stress cracks all around the 4rivets that hold the motor. has anyone else noticed this?
seems simple but I have 2 questions though,
I'm about to do my passenger side . . .is this the same for drivers side, and second, I heard about the spring that holds the window up, and that the window can fall-is there anyway/anything to do to avoid this?
thanks in advance
Ive done glass for many years...is this a hack job?...IMOP I say yes..I certainly wouldnt do it on my own car and never on a customers car...but hey!..its your car man, who am I to say otherwise. Ive personally never had a problem pulling this regulator.
I do have one question...unless I missed it, I know all regulators have that hole to put in the bolt in to relieve tension, what do you do if your motor is inop and cant roll down to that spot?
Originally posted by ajhagerman I do have one question...unless I missed it, I know all regulators have that hole to put in the bolt in to relieve tension, what do you do if your motor is inop and cant roll down to that spot?
See ya!
drew
Not to take anyones side in this discussion, but to answer the question about the spring tension. Put a support under the window to keep it in the full up position until the job is done.
I replaced both of my window motors here recently doing it this way and i never felt i needed to prop the window in any way.it never moved on me at all.taking my time it took me about 2 1/2 to three hours total install these.
__________________ 1991 Banditt 2 #130 of 600
Greater Cincinnati F-Body Accociation www.gcfba.net
Northern Kentucky F-Body Association http://nkyfba.homeip.net/
Originally posted by 91banditt2 I replaced both of my window motors here recently doing it this way and i never felt i needed to prop the window in any way.it never moved on me at all.taking my time it took me about 2 1/2 to three hours total install these.
It gives me a greater peace of mind knowing that something is there just in case "MURPHY" decides to pay a visit. I think everybody knows him.
Originally posted by Trickster It gives me a greater peace of mind knowing that something is there just in case "MURPHY" decides to pay a visit. I think everybody knows him.
Ahhh! Murphy i know him well
__________________ 1991 Banditt 2 #130 of 600
Greater Cincinnati F-Body Accociation www.gcfba.net
Northern Kentucky F-Body Association http://nkyfba.homeip.net/
Originally posted by Trickster It gives me a greater peace of mind knowing that something is there just in case "MURPHY" decides to pay a visit. I think everybody knows him.
I definetly would not want that window crashing down while my hands are there
this is a great wayt o do it, i wouldn;t call this a hack at all, its just improving on a design, however hacking up your car to do a fuel pump is just plain bull**** in my opinion
Wow this cracks me up. You better go yell at the 20,000+ 4th gen guys that have done this. We are all just hacking our cars.
I have done probally 100+ motors for friends and members of my car club this way. Hell, when I was working in shops I did them this way too. Even the dealer has done them this way. My friends 99 came back with the 3 access holes from the dealer when his got replaced.
I just picked up another thirdgen yesterday, and I had planned to do the window motors just like my 94 if they ever went out. Literally takes 20 minutes, and I don't have to buy rivets or new nuts and bolts.
Originally posted by CustomX Of course you support the window, hence i said rol it half way up, thiers a hole in the sissors the you can isnter a nut into.....and or you can prop the window up.
4th gen window motors can and do get installed just liek this, cept you cant see what your doing at all. Luckily thiers several templates flaoting around for them that give you exact placement of where to drill. I made one for this to do to the other side (ie clean) if youd liek i can post that too.
Half way? On my 1992's the hole is only fully exposed when the window is at the VERY TOP. Haf way the and hole is ABOVE the other scissor arm. As a result, putting anything in the hole is completely useless.
I tried this on my car, and was unable to get to the screws since the mechanic who did my windows later installs the NUT on first, and the the screw head is on the OTHERSIDE. This would mean I would have to drill HUGE holes to get a SOCKET into the hole to take off the nut. I tried and gave up. Now I got 3 holes in my panel. Not too bad since it's hidden but guess it's a situation to learn from.
If the nut was installed on the OTHERSIDE then this would have likely works PERFECTLY. Damnit.
i don't think there is a template for the pass. side.when i did mine (both sides) i just looked for the rivets and mark the spot where i thought theyed be.and i was pretty darn close.
__________________ 1991 Banditt 2 #130 of 600
Greater Cincinnati F-Body Accociation www.gcfba.net
Northern Kentucky F-Body Association http://nkyfba.homeip.net/
I am about to do my passenger side. Actually. I have had my door panel off for several weeks now and still have not got to it. My motor gears seam to be missing a tooth since it goes down a bit, then needs to be pushed down a little to catch again. It stops three times total to get it down. Replacing the motor would be the solution, right?
Now I still have an old set of doors laying around as was thinking of just using the motot out of that. It was from my old car and I really did not roll it down often. Should I just buy a new one anyways.
If you guys were to want to remove the whole assebly to clean and regrease, would you still recommed to remove it as one unit or motor first to make it more manuverable?
My car sat for many years in AZ before I got it with the pass side exposed to the sun. Car looks great from the driver side, but the pass side is scorched; so much that the bird emblem is baked on the rear 1/4 panel. What plastic components should be replaced?
I need to replace a rattling door handle as well, might as well be now.
i realize this is an old thread but i would like to thank the orginal poster of this thread.
i read the "tech article" and was dreading the job and as i was doing it i had to stop b/c it was gettin to me. i went inside sat down and searched and found this, ill have it done in no time tommorrow. thanks a ton.
btw ive done 2 4th gen motors, you have to drill large holes in the door skin and they can be quite messy due to the fact that they are a type of fiber glass. i see no difference between drilling holes in a 3rd gen and 4th gen.
well to be honest working in a dealarship on new cars sometimes modifcations like this are done to allow access to make things quicker to do IE flag time noone will ever see this and if they did they would thank you for doing it to make it easier to change the motor since all gm window motors fail especailly 80's
-89irocadam
So basically I would just drill out the motor rivets and replace it all without touching the assembly... might be easier with the dremel...
I'm going to try it right now...
__________________ ______________________________
1982 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
Small Block 350
Edelbrock Torker intake with stock heads
GM Turbo Hydraulic 700-R4
Carter AFB work in progress
my enthusiasm was shattered when I realized this method wouldn't work for my crank-to-power conversion....
Well... my arms are pretty cratched up, but not too bad.
__________________ ______________________________
1982 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
Small Block 350
Edelbrock Torker intake with stock heads
GM Turbo Hydraulic 700-R4
Carter AFB work in progress
