BodyGeneral body information and techniques for restoration, repairs, and modification.
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you'll have to "back plate" the hole, then use alot of JB weld to fill in the hole.
JB weld would not be my pick, it's too thin, too soupy.
To fill a hole in w/o a welder, I have always taped a pc. of sheet metal to the back side of the hole, then filled with bondo. Then once done and hard you can remove the tape
Never had one crack or fall out on me yet, and i filled many many holes over the years doing such things as shaving side mirrors off, truck side trim, antt. holes, etc
I've used the JB weld to fill holes and "weld" in patch panels now and then. Pretty good stuff for about anything I've tried it on, but it gets pretty expensive to use as filler. Seems to hold paint ok after sanding it. Guess it depends on what you're doing with it but a back up panel is always a good idea even for smaller holes.
i didnt want to start a new thread, not trying to highjack it. i have a hole about 7inch round in my floor pan and i am on a budget, what can i use to fix it
My Auto Body Repair instructor tells me that over half of the fixes he made at his old shop were someone's attempt at doing it themselves. Don't use JB Weld. Just don't. Even if it works... why? Why not just do it the right way the first time?
Originally posted by iroc87matt i didnt want to start a new thread, not trying to highjack it. i have a hole about 7inch round in my floor pan and i am on a budget, what can i use to fix it
fiberglass cloth a resin work well. for small holes get some fiberglass filler.Then undercoat
Sounds like someone found a stop sign "just laying around"
On topic: I used JB to eliminate the antenna on the Mustang. I formed a piece of sheetmetal underneath the hole, taped it into place, and JB'ed the repair area (allowing some JB to get under the repair panel of course). It sanded smooth and with few pinholes, which I filled before shooting the car. With paint. heh
Going on two years with no repair visible. It's as if the car never had an antenna. And with the level of suck attained by local radio, I don't miss it...
K
Quote:
Originally posted by iroc87matt thanks, i know it sounds ghetto but, would a stop sign work or sheet metal?
hey guys- about the lead- my senior year of highschool i had work release with no job so i had nothing else better to do but work on my 70 chevelle wagon. it needed some filler and i had lead sticks laying around and my toarch. it took a couple weeks to get it down to where i could do it and make is astheticaly pleasing- but it worked and thats a year ago and its still there 100% solid. its all about patience. dont rush it and dont heat the metal up too fast and too much. ill try and get some befor after pics if i can find them. after leading- use a flap disk and it makes it look like its not even there.
Originally posted by VILeninDM matt, if you use up that stop sign, there are 4 or 5 around here that are just pissing me off. I wouldn't mind if someone made real use out of them.
matt, if you use up that stop sign, there are 4 or 5 around here that are just pissing me off. I wouldn't mind if someone made real use out of them. [/b]
what do you mean? a real use? you mean sitting at points where your car would really get going isnt a real use??
Now if we could find a use for those worthless red lights all over the place. Nothing worse than sitting at a red light at 1 AM with not a car in sight except the cop that's waiting for me to run the light.
Several years ago, I filled a section of floor panel (probably 10 in by 2) with POR-15 filler--which can be molded, sanded, drilled--along with their mesh. Still in place and apparently holding well. Highly recommended. You might consider checking their web site for more info.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
thanks, i know it sounds ghetto but, would a stop sign work or sheet metal?
If you go to a local sheetmetal fab shop, more than likely they will just give you a small piece of offal for free.
I would try to get a piece slightly larger than the hole.
Take some avaition snips and cut off the rusted edges of the hole and cut the patch the same size but, an inch larger all the way around.
You'll need to have/get a good grade silicon (such as GE SCS1000), rivet gun and acording sized drill bit in relation to the rivets used.
Place the patch over the hole (from the topside) and drill the patch/floor around the perimeter of the patch panel (every 2" or so).
Make a mark so you know where to line the patch back up (if your forgetful like I am), take the patch up and lay a 3/8" bead (of silicone) around the hole (going over the rivet holes you drilled).
Place the patch back in place and press untill the silicone squeezes out then rivet away.
Clean up the excess silicone top & bottom side and put a little extra over the rivets to help seal water out.
Paint or undercoat as desired.
Or...
If you have a welder... make patch panel the same size as the hole. Weld patch in place. Clean weld. Paint.
Just my opinion though....
__________________ "You're never too old to learn something stupid."
- '87 Formula Firebird - never ending project
- '91 RS Camaro - *sold
- '93 Z28 - donor
- '71 Camaro LT - as if I need another project.....
- '00 S-10 Xtreme ext cab... new beater
if your that despret us JB weld if not find someone to help you repair it.
i plan on doin all lead work on my car when i strip it down this spring, im goin to try and only use a thin skim of body piller on the body to just make sure i didnt miss anything.
Originally posted by Gnarley_Boarder I have heard storys of people useing JB weld to fix holes in hoods and other areas apperatly it stands up to a beating.Anyone tried it?
And with the level of suck attained by local radio, I don't miss it...
I can relate to that!
__________________ MadMax: 1983 Trans am- Alum. motown block, vic jr. heads/intake, 100hp N2O, canton roadrace pan, spec clutch, alum. flywheel/driveshaft, t56, LT1 rear/3.42 gears,C5 brakes, fiberglass/carbon fiber body panels, cage, rod end suspension, nowhere near finished.
El Meano: 1966 el camino- 3200lbs. 4x4, long travel link suspension, cross over steering, axle trusses. Looking to the sky and finding breakage or bumpstops springtime '08!